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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Bill M. on June 23, 2008, 12:12:49 PM
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I want to install this lift myself at home, because I don't want to shell out the extra $400 to have 4 wheel parts do it for me. I have slightly higher than normal mechanical aptitude *as should every jeep owner* and all of the nessicary tools. How hard will it be? I anticipate it being a 8-16 hour job, so I think a weekend should suffice.
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Most lift kits won't be too hard as long as you have some tools. Floor jack and tall jackstands would make it a lot easier.
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Like Jeffy said...a nice floor jack and some decent jack stands to keep the Jeep lifted so you can work underneath.
A few extra hands never hurt as well.
Start spraying the stuff you will be taking off with PB Blaster now to make it that much easier.
Also, you may want to go to Autozone and rent any spring compressors, pullers, etc. you think you may need so you have them right there.
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I was just going to use ratchet straps... being all Magyver like.. lol I haven't done a lift yet, so which parts should I start to lube up.. lol
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http://www.4x4xplor.com/RE-SuperFlex.html
I found an awesome write up... I don't think it should be too hard....
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A friend of mine has that lift (RE SF 3.5) on his TJ and I hate admit it but it works better (more traction) with 31s than my YJ with 33s. It's a very nice lift.
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That just made me very excited... Im glad it is a good lift. :dance: :dance: :dance:
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That is the lift I run works well. is a bit taller than advertised, for most 4 bangers it sits at 4.5 inches.
So you might have to do the sye thing with a cv shaft or drop the snot out of the transfercase and lift the motor mounts. No need for a spring compressor just tip the front axle down on the side you want to change the spring on and turn the wheel so you don't stretch the brake hose. Instead of changing the front brake hoses you can make a drop down bracket and lower the hose mounting bracket about a inch and a half this will give it enough flex to loose a front spring. If you have any questions you can message me. Also no drop pitman arm needed nor does the kit come with one.
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:uhoh: Wow... so you have tis lift as well?? I just bought it, along with a dropped pitman arm as well as extended brake lines.... 927 dollars later...do I not need those?? There is no way at the moment to do a sye.. not enough money... but the kit comes with a 2 inch t case lowering kit...I was just going to use ratchet straps for the springs...any other info would be appreciated!!!
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Yup sure do, I bought the standard 3.5" lift and found used curry johny joint control arm for the front and rear.
Stock pitman arm stock brake hoses, I just extend the mounts of the hard line about 1.5" works well flexes well also. Have been wheeling it for a year now and am very happy with this setup
(http://hotimg16.fotki.com/a/76_83/32_227/locker-try-out-010.jpg) (http://hotimg16.fotki.com/p/a/76_83/32_227/locker-try-out-010.jpg)
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I'd really recommend getting the spring compressors and the pitman arm puller. I know Autozone rents them out for free! Makes life alot easier and, more importantly, safer. It took me 2 days to lift my old tj, so a weekend should be fine. The 2 inch drop kit will work, but get the sye asap. Keep an eye on your driveshaft angles too. You will probably need to raise the pinion angle on both axles to keep the vibes down. Sounds like a fun project!
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:doggy: :dance: :gimp: :clap:
Oh man... today is the day I pick up my lift... I am sooooo excited...tell me why the first thing I did when I woke up was roll over to my desk and grab the laptop to make sure my paychecks cleared the bank so I can finish paying off the remaining $200. I feel like I am 5 years old and waiting for Santa... haha... WHOOOOOOOOOOOO....lol betcha can't guess what I will be doing for the next few days.....not a thing other than work and working on the Jeep!!!!!!!!!! :clap: :clap: :clap: :ass: :dance: :dance:
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:doggy: :dance: :gimp: :clap:
Oh man... today is the day I pick up my lift... I am sooooo excited...tell me why the first thing I did when I woke up was roll over to my desk and grab the laptop to make sure my paychecks cleared the bank so I can finish paying off the remaining $200. I feel like I am 5 years old and waiting for Santa... haha... WHOOOOOOOOOOOO....lol betcha can't guess what I will be doing for the next few days.....not a thing other than work and working on the Jeep!!!!!!!!!! :clap: :clap: :clap: :ass: :dance: :dance:
Congratulations....I just hit that "I've had me Jeep done for a month now and I want to add more" phase.... :stick:
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(http://hotimg16.fotki.com/a/76_83/32_227/locker-try-out-010.jpg) (http://hotimg16.fotki.com/p/a/76_83/32_227/locker-try-out-010.jpg)
I wonder if the people driving on the freeway are looking up going, "What the hell is that yellow thing going up the side of that mountain?"
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hey I am trying to install my drop pitman arm, but I cant get the old one off.. the bolt which connects to the steering box wont budge, and ive had to use a crescant wrench.. does anyone know the measurments of the bolt????
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36mm IIRC
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36mm IIRC
IIRC?....I've read a DPA will fudge up my stuff and its not nessicary with the 3.5.... what is your expert opinion???
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Doesn't need it, that's why the Rubicon express kit doesn't come with one
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I am so pissed.....I got the front end completly done, got the rear shocks, off, then the coils... and then I had to remove the rear track bar bracket to replace it with the new one... and I couldnt get the bolt off... it was rusted in... me and my buddy tried as hard as possible to get it off...but no go...After everything... so close.... but no.. one bolt to hold me back... So what I am going to have to do is drop the fuel tank... and drill out the bolt... I doused it with some rust remover....so I'll give it one more go in the morning... anyone have any suggestions?? :crap:
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That's how things usually go. Everything runs smoothly till something screws it up. It's usually something small, too. I'd soak it over night then soak it again in the morning then you might try hitting it. Vibrations might help loosen the rust. Then try to remove it. Air tools would make short work of it. It would either remove the bolt or break the head off. In either case it would be off. :lol:
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Yea... I might try that.. The only problem is that my fuel tank is in the way.. how hard is it to drop it?????
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One method that has never failed me is to heat the bolt or nut with a torch and then cool it off with BP Blaster applied to the threads. This is usually after applying BP Blaster a few times before without heat with no luck.
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I agree with the heat method, assuming you aren't too close to the gas tank. I've gotten many bolts loose by heating until red then quickly taking the breaker bar to it.
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Well after much fustration.. I called my dads friend who works with him as a special forces mechanic...*he didnt go to iraq with my dad* and well, long story short, he busted it loose in about 10 minutes... lol... so now it looks like I am back on schedual for the lift being done tomorrow!!! :doggy: :doggy: :dance: :dance: :beers: I am soooo happy!
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did u get it done we need pics :naughty:
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Sure did! I is under the Posuer Central thread called After the lift!
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=4891.0
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Hey, aw12345 is that the hills above the cajon pass?
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I am going to do this kit as well. I went to a 4wd shop and they recommended the sye kit as well and they also said to get a rubicon driveline. Is this needed. It adds another 500 to my budget that isn't in the budget.
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I am going to do this kit as well. I went to a 4wd shop and they recommended the sye kit as well and they also said to get a rubicon driveline. Is this needed. It adds another 500 to my budget that isn't in the budget.
what's a rubicon driveline? if you do the SYE you'll need a new rear driveshaft, you can get away with a t-case drop though if you're on a budget and you won't need a driveshaft.
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How do I lower the transfer case? is that just the spacers on the tranny skid? Id like to get the lift for the summer. Ill order it when the jeep is getting tuned. i meant driveshaft
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How do I lower the transfer case? is that just the spacers on the tranny skid? Id like to get the lift for the summer. Ill order it when the jeep is getting tuned. i meant driveshaft
yes, spacers between the skid and the frame. this is what you need
1'' lowering kit http://www.quadratec.com/products/52254_602.htm
unfortunately the kit above doesn't look like it comes with a t-case shifter relocation bracket which i think you need on the TJ. this one has it but I can't see the bolts but they might be included (don't know if they are as i have some issues downloading the instructions for it).
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16006_106.htm
best way of course is the SYE and driveshaft swap, but considering the price of the lowering kit (below $50) could be a reasonable intermediate solution that would work until you get the parts for the SYE (i did run one on mine and it was fine, can't complain).
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Just looked at what is included in the standard kit.
Parts Included
* Front & Rear Coil Springs
* Front & Rear Bump Stops
* Front Sway Bar Disconnects
* Rear Sway Bar Links
* Rear Track Bar Bracket
* Transfer Case Lowering Kit
* Installation Hardware
So I don't need to buy anything else. Just the kit. I'll upgraded to the superflex soon cause it will probably be way better.
nix that idea. just downloaded the pdf and it says the transfer case drop down kit is for the 96-02
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yeah, sometimes it comes with the lowering kit, my lift came with one too. it's easy to install, only difference between TJ and YJ is the relocation bracket.
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Buy the standard kit then buy currie or rockmen control arms, you will regret buying the rubicon express control arms, unless of course you like changing control arm bushings every month or less. The Currie J joints arm or the rockmen clones are good stuff
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Drop the rear of the driveline or lift the front. Both perform the same result action to minimize the driveline vibes.
Dropping the rear requires the spacers and longer bolts to hold the trans skid plate.
Lifting the front requires small body lift and a motor mount lift bracket.
Both require relocation bracket for the tcase shifter bell crank. The bell crank is sandwiched between the trans and the floor. Move either and it misaligns in the brackets.
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Good to know thanks.
Anyone running 33's on stock gearing. The tires I want come in 31/10.5 or 33/12.5. I was hoping for 32's. I have the 2.4 with a turbo. Is there a difference in the relocation brackets cause my jeep is a 03 and they say the kit is up to 02
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Good to know thanks.
Anyone running 33's on stock gearing. The tires I want come in 31/10.5 or 33/12.5. I was hoping for 32's. I have the 2.4 with a turbo. Is there a difference in the relocation brackets cause my jeep is a 03 and they say the kit is up to 02
i had 33x12.5 with stock gearing (4.10) - it works but not the happier of the setups, pretty much forgot i had 5th unless i was going downhill. to bring it back stock-like would be 4.88 R&P
before that i ran 31s, that was better but not by much, still wish i had better ratio
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i had 33x12.5 with stock gearing (4.10) - it works but not the happier of the setups, pretty much forgot i had 5th unless i was going downhill. to bring it back stock-like would be 4.88 R&P
before that i ran 31s, that was better but not by much, still wish i had better ratio
If you can (read, if you have D44's!), I would go to 5.13 with 33's; 4.88 bring it back to stock when you do the formula, but the formula dos not account for greater wind ressistance (bigger and wider tires and a lift) or rolling ressistance (bigger, wider and heavier tires).
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i believe i have 4.56 stock. my tranny is the nv2550 i think. does this change your suggestions?
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i believe i have 4.56 stock. my tranny is the nv2550 i think. does this change your suggestions?
I know with an auto, 4.88 might work out, but I am not familiar with them. But this is the first time I hear of a Jeep with 4.56 stock; are you sure about this?
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But this is the first time I hear of a Jeep with 4.56 stock; are you sure about this?
x2
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i believe i have 4.56 stock. my tranny is the nv2550 i think. does this change your suggestions?
What year is the Jeep and what transmission does it have, auto or manual? There is no NV2550. The closest thing would be a NV3550 (manual) but that only comes with the 4.0L.
The only TJ to have 4.56's stock was the 2004 with the 42RH automatic transmission.
If that's really your gearing then you can only move to 4.88's which will probably be marginal at best.
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2.4 does fine with 4.56 or 4.88 gears on mine 4.88's and 35" tires is a pretty happy marriage
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It's not what most say but I'm pretty happy with 4.56 and 33s. It pulls well in 4th on the highway and I hardly ever have to use 5th. Isn't 5th the one that goes bad most often? Better not to have to use it! Keep in mind that the highways I use to get to trails are not freeways so the speed is almost never over 55 mph.
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It's not what most say but I'm pretty happy with 4.56 and 33s. It pulls well in 4th on the highway and I hardly ever have to use 5th. Isn't 5th the one that goes bad most often? Better not to have to use it! Keep in mind that the highways I use to get to trails are not freeways so the speed is almost never over 55 mph.
If you don't have to go over 55MPH then you may never notice the lack or power. Although, if you drove a stock Jeep on the same route, probably you would.
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2.4 does fine with 4.56 or 4.88 gears on mine 4.88's and 35" tires is a pretty happy marriage
Yours is a 6-speed though isn't it? Those started off with 3.73:1 gears so 4.56/4.88 would be a big jump. The 6-speed has much better gear selection then the 5-speed or any of the auto's as well.
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6 speed has a pretty nice short first gear and a nice hear spread all together, add the few extra horses of the 2.4l and it makes for a fairly decent driving Jeep. I can keep up reasonably well with my buddies on mountain roads, it will still do 75 to 80 on the highway and wheels every bit as good as the 6 cyl wranglers of my buddies
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I got the info from jeepforum.com posted the specs on all the jeeps. search stock jeep specs. i wish i had a 6 speed. as far as power goes it is turbo'd. highway shouldnt be a prob. 95 is kind of scary lol
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6 speed has a pretty nice short first gear and a nice hear spread all together, add the few extra horses of the 2.4l and it makes for a fairly decent driving Jeep. I can keep up reasonably well with my buddies on mountain roads, it will still do 75 to 80 on the highway and wheels every bit as good as the 6 cyl wranglers of my buddies
That makes a big difference.
42RFE
3.00
1.67 2nd Up
1.50 2nd Down
1.00
0.75
NSG370
4.46
2.61
1.72
1.25
1.00
0.84
NV1500
3.96
2.37
1.49
1.00
0.83
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Manuals:
AX-5 - 1997-2002
* 5 speed manual
* Used with 4 cyl models
* 10 spline input
* 21 spline output
* Ratios:
1st - 3.93
2nd - 2.33
3rd - 1.45
4th - 1.00
5th - 0.85
Rev - 4.74
AX-15 - 1997-1999
* 5 speed manual
* Used with 6 cyl models
* 10 spine input
* 23 spline output
* Ratios:
1st - 3.83
2nd - 2.33
3rd - 1.44
4th - 1.00
5th - 0.79
Rev - 4.22
NV2550 - 2003-2004
* 5 speed manual
* Used with 4 cyl models
* Ratios:
1st - 3.85
2nd - 2.25
3rd - 1.48
4th - 1.00
5th - 0.75 or 0.80
Rev - 3.52
NV3550 - 2000-2004
* 5 speed manual
* Used with 6 cyl models
* 10 spline input
* 23 spline output
* Ratios:
1st - 4.01
2nd - 2.33
3rd - 1.39
4th - 1.00
5th - 0.78
Rev - 3.57
NSG370 - 2005-2006
* 6 speed manual
* Used with both 4 cyl and 6 cyl models
* 10 spline input
* 23 spline output
* Ratios:
1st - 4.46
2nd - 2.61
3rd - 1.72
4th - 1.25
5th - 1.00
6th - 0.84
Rev - 4.06
Axle Gear Ratios
3.07 - 1997-2006
* Standard ratio used with 6 cyl models except the Rubicon
3.55 - 1997 only
* Optional ratio used with 6 cyl manual only
3.73 - 1998-2006
* Optional ratio used with 6 cyl manual and automatic except the Rubicon
* Standard ratio used with most 4 cyl automatics
* Standard ratio used with 4 cyl 6 speed
* Standard ratio used with Dana 44 rear axle except the Rubicon
4.10 - 1997-2006
* Standard ratio used with 4 cyl 5 speed manual
* Standard ratio used with Rubicon
4.56 - 2003-2006
* Optional ratio used with 4 cyl automatic
***I must have looked at the wrong one.
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Then your gearing is like most 2.5L's. No reason to even consider 4.56, just go straight to 4.88.
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sounds good. Next question. would I be alright for about 6 months of stock gears with 33's. the tires I want don't come in 32/15's so i'm just going to go with 33's but it will be awhile before I can afford to get it geared. Then it poses the next question. Do I gear and lock my D35 and D30 or find a set of D44's off of a grand wagoneer. Keep in mind I don't go to crazy off roading. Mostly just average trails I guess. haven't done much wheelin.