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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: 95yjman on August 20, 2008, 06:49:35 PM
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I'm sure this has been brought up before so I hope I don't get flamed for this heh. So a 44 out of a cherokee would swap in pretty easy to a YJ? How about a 44 out of a wagoneer or some full size Jeep? What would be the best year to get a 44 out of wagoneer for a YJ?
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i got my front dana 44 out of a 85 grand wagoneer and it is almost the same width with disk and a driver side drop......P III
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I'm sure this has been brought up before so I hope I don't get flamed for this heh. So a 44 out of a cherokee would swap in pretty easy to a YJ? How about a 44 out of a wagoneer or some full size Jeep? What would be the best year to get a 44 out of wagoneer for a YJ?
Easy? Nothings easy. Well, maybe if you checked the FAQ. ;)
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=474
Now, are you looking to replace BOTH axles or just one? If it's just the rear then you will have to go with a 1987-1991 Grand Wagoneer. Anything else won't have the correct rear differential. If you want BOTH axles then you'll can get both from those year as well mixing and matching a '80-'91 front axle.
Also, keep in mind that the SJ Dana 44's have a 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern.
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Easy? Nothings easy. Well, maybe if you checked the FAQ. ;)
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=474
Now, are you looking to replace BOTH axles or just one? If it's just the rear then you will have to go with a 1987-1991 Grand Wagoneer. Anything else won't have the correct rear differential. If you want BOTH axles then you'll can get both from those year as well mixing and matching a '80-'91 front axle.
Also, keep in mind that the SJ Dana 44's have a 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern.
Thanks man, second time you got me with the FAQ 8) Right now I'm looking to just get rid of the 35. My Dana 30 is HP and I plan to do away with the vaccum disco by installing a TJ shaft.
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You might consider a Explorer 8.8" as well. They are 5 on 4.5" with the advantage of disc brakes. Although the XJ/MJ D44 drums are larger then the 35. The axle shafts are .01" larger IIRC and have 1 more spline. The tubes are a bit larger (i'm not sure about the actual thickness) 3" as opposed to 2.75" but you'll want to have the tubes welded since they are prone to twisting. You might also want a bearing preload dif cover since the caps have been known to loosen as well.
If you mix and match, you can get Ranger XTL 8.8" with 4.56's but with drums.
Then there is the Toyota 8". The small trucks have 5 on 4.5" while the Tacomas have 6 on 5.5". I beleive you can mix and match to get 5 on 4.5" but you'll need to have the disc's drilled for the smaller pattern. Considering the weight difference and the ease of gear changes, I'd probably consider a Toy 8" if I had to do it over again.
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Go with the '95+ Exploder 8.8 if you don't want to change lug pattern and are going to keep the front axle.
If you're up to upgrading both axles, consider a Waggy front and rear D44, or Waggy front d44 and Isuzu Rodeo/Honda Passport rear d44. The Isuzu rear axle has disc brakes and same 6-lug wheel pattern as the Waggy front axle.
Benefit of rear AND front d44's is being able to regear lower than 4.88, which the 4banger needs with larger tires. 5.13 and 5.38 are better options for 33" and 35" tires, respectively.
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I read that some mix (can't remember if it's front or rear) of grand wagoneer springs are the same as YJ's, but don't know about spring perch width. I'm sure if you could find dual waggy 44's you'd be happy about it. There are tons of them around here, still driving and everything, but it's arizona, and anything under 50 years old will probably still run after sitting around for that long, haha.
And yeah, isuzu rodeo 44's are also SUA (pretty sure), can have disks, and commonly come with 4.10.
What I'm thinking for my XJ is pulling another Xj 44, pulling outers from a ZJ for disks, and trying to find a rodeo with 4.56 gears and carrier... At any rate I'd probably end up with two or more 44's and parts floating around.
MJ 44 would be a good find for you guys too...
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Just get D60's....it's 8 lugs or nothing.... :stick:
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Just get D60's....it's 8 lugs or nothing.... :stick:
Hmmmm. I will be happy to get my front D44 [to match the rear (which was pirated from my sisters Jeep) not to mention I want to go 5.38] and to add OX Lockers!!!
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I'm thinking OX lockers would have been nice....no air lines or compressor to worry about. :'(
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I'm thinking OX lockers would have been nice....no air lines or compressor to worry about. :'(
Or save some money and get the best locker with the least number of parts to fail - Detroit Locker.
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not sure if i see the advantage of running a detroit locker i have one in my 72 ford and i have a spool in my yj the spool is better on road, it is lighter, it is stronger, and best of all it was $138 delivered to my house my detroit is horrible on road but it does work off road just a thought sorry to be nosey.................P III
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Hmm, my Detroit is pretty quiet and well mannered.
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not sure if i see the advantage of running a detroit locker i have one in my 72 ford and i have a spool in my yj the spool is better on road, it is lighter, it is stronger, and best of all it was $138 delivered to my house my detroit is horrible on road but it does work off road just a thought sorry to be nosey.................P III
Spools are pretty hard on axleshafts on the road, you only get so many stretch cycles. So unless you are running a big 35 spline shaft, I'd make sure to pull and check your shafts occasionally. D44 sized shafts don't like spools for long on the pavement.
The shafts from my spooled CJ which was driven on the road a lot ;)
(http://oldjeep.com/images/winter0304projects/Winter0304Projects%20005.jpg)
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I'm thinking OX lockers would have been nice....no air lines or compressor to worry about. :'(
Thats the plan!
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arb works like a charm for me, not saying that ox lockers wouldn't. However I am very happy with my choice no need for 2 extra shifters and cables that get stiff
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arb works like a charm for me, not saying that ox lockers wouldn't. However I am very happy with my choice no need for 2 extra shifters and cables that get stiff
Problem with ARB's is the seemingly constant leaks - especially in cold climates and getting used to asking "Does it look like my front end locked in"? Some people seem to be able to get them to work reliably, but I sure havn't ever seen it in person.
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well....mine is driven A LOT on the road...sometimes near 100 miles a day when I'm working in my Muskegon office...had to go with selectable.
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arb works like a charm for me, not saying that ox lockers wouldn't. However I am very happy with my choice no need for 2 extra shifters and cables that get stiff
First time I've heard that (stiffness). ARB's would be my second choice I guess.
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Those cables are not cheap and yes quite a few do get very stiff to operate (takes a lot of effort) some expensive ones last longer than others. Also adjustment of the cable would be quite important, don't know if the shift collar has a detent that locks the shift collar in the locked or unlocked postion, if the shift fork is what keeps the collar in place it will wear rather quickly, I have seen to many shiftcovers with worn forks just from people keeping their hands on the shift lever, believe it or not some shift forks will be worn excesively in a matter of a couple of weeks
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Those cables are not cheap and yes quite a few do get very stiff to operate (takes a lot of effort) some expensive ones last longer than others. Also adjustment of the cable would be quite important, don't know if the shift collar has a detent that locks the shift collar in the locked or unlocked postion, if the shift fork is what keeps the collar in place it will wear rather quickly, I have seen to many shiftcovers with worn forks just from people keeping their hands on the shift lever, believe it or not some shift forks will be worn excesively in a matter of a couple of weeks
Sounds like an issue buying non-OX parts. Still either way two Ox cables are cheaper than the compressor from ARB
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The more I look at it the better the Eaton E-Locker looks. It uses an electromagnet to engage so it has fewer moving parts, at least for the engagement.
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The more I look at it the better the Eaton E-Locker looks. It uses an electromagnet to engage so it has fewer moving parts, at least for the engagement.
Even worse than the other 2. I had an 8.8 e-locker and god help you when you break a part or worse yet rip the wires out of the electro magnet when the tabs break off and it spins. The repair parts cost more than the substantial price of the locker.
Due to the ball ramp design it actually unlocks for a moment when you change the direction you are moving, which is most likely the reason for ripping off the tabs that keep the magnet from spinning.
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i have OX front and rear. Once they are adjusted there is no worries. I have never had an issue. And i've never had an issue with my cables. they have been in for years and the shifters still look new. I doubt you could find any wear on them.
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Thanks for the info. It's always to to hear from people who have actually uesed these lockers. Sounds like the OX is winning right now.