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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: nic99007 on September 15, 2008, 03:18:31 PM
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I should have some new motor mounts and a new tranny mount showing up any day now. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or tips on changing them out. They don't look to be to complex, I just always hope there is an easier way. :biggrin:
Thanks in advance.
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It's pretty easy. Unbolt the mounts from the frame, put a floor jack under the oil pan, pull the bolts that attach to the block mounts and reverse the process.
For the tranny mount, a jack under the tcase then pull the skidplate.
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like oldjeep said it is fairly straight forward... only thing i will add is that in addition to the tranny mount there is a stud that connects to the "torque arm" that has 2 rubber "isolators" that you could also get a new one while you are at it is you are concerned that all the rubber things are shoot. but that stud with rubber isolators isn't too important ( mine is bent pretty good but still does its job as far as i can tell.) so i wouldn't worry about it too much, / just make sure it is in 1 piece when doing the tranny mount.
hopefully this was more useful that confusing.
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I agree, pretty simple and straight forward, the only thing I wanted to add, is I would place a piece of wood on top of the jack before it contacts the oil pan just to distribute the weight a little better.
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Just out of curiosity, do you replace mounts only when they are damaged or is this a preventive thing (like change every 100K miles or so)?
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Just out of curiosity, do you replace mounts only when they are damaged or is this a preventive thing (like change every 100K miles or so)?
I'd replace both while you're at it. They come as a set anyway. Better to replace both then to replace one and have the otherside fail soon after.
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Just out of curiosity, do you replace mounts only when they are damaged or is this a preventive thing (like change every 100K miles or so)?
when i looked at mine the rubber around the mounting point is almost all gone and the motor is sagging down close to an inch. So I thought I should change them.
One more question, does anyone know what amount of torque to use on the new mounting hardware?? I looked in my Haynes manual and it didn't say. It did say to use some kind of thread lock.
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when i looked at mine the rubber around the mounting point is almost all gone and the motor is sagging down close to an inch. So I thought I should change them.
One more question, does anyone know what amount of torque to use on the new mounting hardware?? I looked in my Haynes manual and it didn't say. It did say to use some kind of thread lock.
Hmm, never bothered with thread lock compound. The mount requires only 38lbs-ft while the bolt through the mount requires 51lbs-ft. The transmission mount is only 40lbs-ft and the skidplate is 65lbs-ft.
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Jeffy,
Thanks :beers: I knew that someone on here would know.
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made the switch yesterday. All I can say is WOW. My junk feels so much tighter now. no more suddering as I start out in 1st gear. my shifter actually holds still while driving. I wouldn't say it feels more powerfull, but a lot more responsive while accelerating. best $30 bucks I've spent in a long time. I would recommend that everyone check thier mounts for signs of wear,
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made the switch yesterday. All I can say is WOW. My junk feels so much tighter now. no more suddering as I start out in 1st gear. my shifter actually holds still while driving. I wouldn't say it feels more powerfull, but a lot more responsive while accelerating. best $30 bucks I've spent in a long time. I would recommend that everyone check thier mounts for signs of wear,
The biggest differe is probably how the torque is applied. It probably feels more instantanious since you start moving rather then waiting for the powertrain to get the slack out, so to speak. I've noticed the difference wen going from stock rubber mounts to poly mount even.
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made the switch yesterday. All I can say is WOW. My junk feels so much tighter now. no more suddering as I start out in 1st gear. my shifter actually holds still while driving. I wouldn't say it feels more powerfull, but a lot more responsive while accelerating. best $30 bucks I've spent in a long time. I would recommend that everyone check thier mounts for signs of wear,
How long did the change take you, and how difficult was it?
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I think i did mine in about 45 mins or so. Its pretty easy to do if you have everything you need right there
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best $30 bucks I've spent in a long time. I would recommend that everyone check thier mounts for signs of wear,
wow you got a deal. my 1 motor mount cost me $20 at auto zone.
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wow you got a deal. my 1 motor mount cost me $20 at auto zone.
Typically, you'll get all three mounts for around $35.
I buy mine from here (http://www.willysoffroadsupply.com/52017534K/Willys-Jeep_Parts_-_New_all_years_and_models_Engine_-_Misc_Motor_Mount_Kit.html) since he's a 4banger Mailing List Member.
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i got my stuff from rockauto.com they shipped fast and had great prices. the switch took about 1 hr. I wasn't really in any hurry it could have been done faster.
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Jeeze, my motor mounts cost $70 - but they are a little beefier than stock ;)
http://browndogindustries.com/c2569-0jeepmotormounts.aspx
I see they now have an ultraflex rubber set for $100, must cut down on the poly vibes
http://browndogindustries.com/cu2569-0motormountsultra-flexrubber.aspx
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Jeeze, my motor mounts cost $70 - but they are a little beefier than stock ;)
http://browndogindustries.com/c2569-0jeepmotormounts.aspx
I see they now have an ultraflex rubber set for $100, must cut down on the poly vibes
http://browndogindustries.com/cu2569-0motormountsultra-flexrubber.aspx
I had a set of 1" Curries that I made work. Then I received a free set from TD performance to T&E. After that I went back to stock mounts with JKS spacers. The vibrations in a daily driver were a bit annoying to say the least. Other then the vibrations, the biggest difference was the powertrain torquing when starting off on on a hill. I'm sure the vibrations while idling didn't help my exhaust any either. I went through a few exhaust hangers on my Borla.
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I had a set of 1" Curries that I made work. Then I received a free set from TD performance to T&E. After that I went back to stock mounts with JKS spacers. The vibrations in a daily driver were a bit annoying to say the least. Other then the vibrations, the biggest difference was the powertrain torquing when starting off on on a hill. I'm sure the vibrations while idling didn't help my exhaust any either. I went through a few exhaust hangers on my Borla.
I might order up the new bushings, they only cost $30 if you bought your MM's before they were available.
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I might order up the new bushings, they only cost $30 if you bought your MM's before they were available.
I doubt they will be worth it. MORE had something similar but stopped making them. I don't think you can have BOTH a solid bushing that also isolates engine vibrations. If I didn't do any many on road miles as I do, I would have probably kept the poly mounts.