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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: tallrugbyguy on October 08, 2008, 02:54:32 PM
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Hey
I just bought a 95 yj recently and a knocking has turned up. sound like it is comming from either the front or rear wheel well on the passenger side. knocking appears to be in sync with tire rotation. happends with clutch in or out, noticed more a slow speeds.
can it be the bearings? u joint? how do i check for a worn u joint? also alot of grease on axel and backing plate and such. what kinda seal could be blowen? as well my engine light does not always come on when i trun the key, and if i dont see the engine light the jeep wont turn over. whats going on here? ignition ?
any help would be great.
also does a larger throttle body and a spacer make a noticible difference?
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You're going to have to localize the knock. If it's the rear, I'd check the rear suspension bushing at the frame. When they get old they start to sag a bit and that allows the sleeve in the middle to knock against the frame when the body leans. That's an easy fix.
A knock in the front could mean your trackbar is loose and it's knocking when body leans or the suspension moves...
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Since it is in synch with the rotation of the tire I'm going to guess front axle u-joints. Mine sounded the same way when I first got my '95 YJ. They were so worn out and loose that they made knocking sounds. To check, just grab them and try to move them, if they are this far gone it will be easy to detect.
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its really hard to pin point the sound while driving. sounds like it comes from under the passenger side door.
i hauled on the u joint and it seems fairly solid.
ill have a look at the suspension tommoro.
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its really hard to pin point the sound while driving. sounds like it comes from under the passenger side door.
i hauled on the u joint and it seems fairly solid.
ill have a look at the suspension tommoro.
Jack the Jeep off it's tires and give them a shake. Also, check the driveshaft U-joint. The upper one especially.
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Could also be a tire out of balance or a bad shock
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sweet guys thanks. i have never actually posted on a forum and gotten advice back.
Cheers
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also does a larger throttle body and a spacer make a noticible difference?
Yes it does. Do both.
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haveing bigger problems with my starting. the engine turns but wont turn over....eventually the engine light comes on and it will go.
not sure what kinda of electrial problem this is. could it be in the starting unit?
seat belt light comes on, just not the other right away. this is usually just the first start of the morning it does this. annoying as hell.
any insite would be great! thanks
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When mine did that it got progressively worse until it got so bad I had to do something about it. It turned out to be the PCM (ECU, computer). The check engine light should come on right away as a bulb check, it should not depend on any sensors or anything else. If you listen carefully next time, you will notice that as long as the check engine light does not turn on, the fuel pump will not begin priming. Once the light comes on, the fuel pump starts to prime and the Jeep starts and runs perfectly. I spent about a month checking and rechecking grounds and voltages but in the end the PCM had to be replaced, after that it has been fine for many months.
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haveing bigger problems with my starting. the engine turns but wont turn over....eventually the engine light comes on and it will go.
not sure what kinda of electrial problem this is. could it be in the starting unit?
seat belt light comes on, just not the other right away. this is usually just the first start of the morning it does this. annoying as hell.
any insite would be great! thanks
Check for CEL codes first, them move from there.
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As far as the sluggish starting, there's a really informative thread "No Spark" http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=5360.0
There's even a link that tells you how to replace the capacitors if the ECU turns out to be bad.
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That is very good information at the end of the "No Spark" thread, whish I had had access to that when my PCM went bad. Instead I had to piece together from the FSM, all the pins to check. I would actually recommend doing the bus connector checks first. If things are OK at the bus connector then you know right away that the computer is bad (or the connector is bad) and don't waste time checking a bunch of extra stuff that could be just fine. If you find something is not right at the connector then you can track it to the grounds or the battery or the wiring.
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wow thanks.
i hope it is only the wiring not the comp.
on other thing i notice is that my cd player never has any memory...... but i also notice that when i turn off my head lights my cd player turns off as well. so im not totally sure i wired her up right.
but this may be a power problem...... ill run those test asap.
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wow thanks.
i hope it is only the wiring not the comp.
on other thing i notice is that my cd player never has any memory...... but i also notice that when i turn off my head lights my cd player turns off as well. so im not totally sure i wired her up right.
but this may be a power problem...... ill run those test asap.
You've got your CD's power wire hooked up to the illumination wire
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You've got your CD's power wire hooked up to the illumination wire
And if so, I would correct it PRONTO! The illumination wire is very thin and it is not meant to handle the full load of amps that the stereo will consume, so it could melt and cause a short...
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ahh.
but i had starting problems befor this as well. so thats not the cause.
i guess ill need alot more fishing around to find the stereo wire. anyone know what color it should be?
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ahh.
but i had starting problems befor this as well. so thats not the cause.
i guess ill need alot more fishing around to find the stereo wire. anyone know what color it should be?
Looks like the power wire off the jeep should be solid red, and it appears that your power is hooked up to a red wire with a white stripe.
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i checked my u joint dosent seem too be the problem seemed pretty solid..
could it be bearings? or would that be more of a grinding sound?
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i checked my u joint dosent seem too be the problem seemed pretty solid..
could it be bearings? or would that be more of a grinding sound?
Did you jack up the wheel and give it a shake? If it moves then it's bearings or balljoints....
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how loose is loose for a u joint? sorry in new to wrenching.
i found my lowr drive shaft u join to be a little loose, could just barely feel movment.
do you replace them as soon as they move?
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If there is enough room for play the On & off the gas with make it worse faster.But if you like, just watch it and replace when it clunks, AS for me I replace stuff early so I don't need to wrench in the dead off winter.
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well its getting worse not and its already cold (canada)
i can feel it in the accel and under my feet now, i think its time to park it till i figure it out. still cant pinpoint it, seems like it would be super easy to spot....
it worse when im going slow slow just a clunk clunk clunk.
thanks for the help
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well its getting worse not and its already cold (canada)
i can feel it in the accel and under my feet now, i think its time to park it till i figure it out. still cant pinpoint it, seems like it would be super easy to spot....
it worse when im going slow slow just a clunk clunk clunk.
thanks for the help
Is it rhythmic? Does it go away when you have the wheel straight? Is it louder when you turn your wheels?
Does it clunk when you accelerate from a stop? Braking?...
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rythmeic yes
happens when wheels are straight or turning.
i can feel it so i have parked the jeep.
clunks when accelerating, also when breaking.
i could not feel any looseness when i jacked up the wheels and pulled on the u joints, drive shafts are secure. possible drive shaft outa balance?
im trying to get it into a mechanic now. suspension seems fine, nothing outa place.
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Did you ever jack it up and give the tires a shake?
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yup, solid
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How about the driveshafts?
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the lower joint on the front on was parley loose. nothing much, all others solid. umless there not balanced.......
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the lower joint on the front on was parley loose. nothing much, all others solid. umless there not balanced.......
Partially? Replace it and see if it all clears up. Should only cost $14.
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turned out to be a bit of rust in the drum that was hitting the shoe!. bit of 80 grit sand paper and im off! thx guys
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turned out to be a bit of rust in the drum that was hitting the shoe!. bit of 80 grit sand paper and im off! thx guys
You have drum brakes on the front?
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Rust?! I never would have suspected that. Glad it worked out.
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You have drum brakes on the front?
I was thinking the same thing...
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Must not drive it if you've got rust on your disc. Probably screwed up the pad as well.
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it was the rear brakes.... not front my bad. the last guy to do them dident clean out the inside of the drum and it was just a bit around the edges. also one of the wires was outa the guides and the brake wasent adjusting......
sound seem to come from the front though.......though i did losethe hearing in my left ear due to a ear infection while i was treking in sumatra so who am i to trust. i thought all my hearing had come back!