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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: YJake on February 21, 2009, 05:19:20 PM
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Here's the background story.
I went to the junkyard and got some of those mustang injectors and a 4.0 TB to give my little 4 banger some more get-up-n'-go.
After installing just the TB my engine ran fine, the idle was high for a few seconds then quickly dropped back down to 850RPM and leveled out.
Success!:thumbsup:
Then I added in the injectors. These caused the engine to run like crap! The engine wont idle worth a damn, it accelerates very slowly, and it redlines at 3000RPM!:thumbdown:
I then reinstalled the original injectors and the results are the same, I'm at a loss for what to do here. In order to keep the engine idling I have to give it some gas, then when it does pick up a low idle it sounds like not all 4 cylinders are firing, or they just aren't firing in any particular order. :brick:
This Heep is my DD to get to class on weekdays, Please help!
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You could have fuel soaked your plugs, try replacing them.
Did you use new o-rings with lube when you installed the new injectors?
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I will check my plugs in the morning, if fuel soaked did they burn up and need to be replaced?
And I put a little gas on the old O-rings as lube before puting the injectors on. They slid right into place.
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Any other ideas folks? :confused:
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disconnect the battery for a min let it forget so it can re learn strategy. u might just had to do that with the 19 lb injectors too. if it is running on what ever the stock injectors were its obv gonna run like shit till it learsn new strategy.
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Did you make sure to reconnect them to the right plugs? You can really tell if one isn't working since the engine will idle a bit loud and not make any power if you try to drive it.
Otherwise, you could have a fouled injector. The other problem could be the plugs aren't seated properly. Although, if you're getting a misfire then you should get a CEL right away.
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A lot of people have told me that I may not have seated them correctly, does anybody have any good methods for this? I simply lubed the O-rings with gas and stuck them in there. They turn fine and feel snug in there so I figured they were fine. :confused:
I'm going to check my spark plugs today to see if I burnt one or two of them up.
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JFYI gas is not a lubricant! All you are doing to the O-rings is drying them out, which will cause damage when you install them. They won't seal properly and will eventually leak which is not a good thing on a hot engine.
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I have not seen you mention anywhere in the post if you have changed the IAC valve from the 4.0L throttle body for the one from your 2.5L throttle body ????
When I first did my throttle body upgrade from a 4.0L I had similar problems with the idle, I swapped the IAC valves and the Jeep has run fine ever since.
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I did in fact swap all sensors but since then reswapped and put the 2.5 TB back on with the normal injectors.
Here's what's going on as of now.
-The high amount of carbon in the exhaust is gone.
-When I start the jeep it sputters a little bit and sounds like not all cylinders are firing, then the computer kicks in and it idles at 1000RPM. However, it still accelerates very oddly when revving teh engine, and while idle it fades out to almost a stall then I can hear the computer kicking in and it smoothes out to idle at 1000RPM again.
-The check engine light comes on as soon as I hear the computer kick in to smooth out the idle after starting it.
I didn't work on it today because I have no idea what to do. :brick:
I did however replace my passanger side seatbelt that was broke with one out of a Grand Cherokee and it now works fine.:thumbsup: (Hey.... gotta keep fixing something on it in the meantime)
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hmm that is weird.
Well start from the basics check your fuel pressure, and all the simple things such as plugged vacuum line to the MAP sensor and so on. Not saying this is it but the symptoms you have described are not to far off of a dieing fuel pump or plugged fuel filter.
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did you check the codes that are coming up with the check engine light? could help point us in the right direction
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I'll be checking the codes in the morning.
As of now I had somebody suggest that I cracked a vac line while moving them out of the way for the instilation. Does a cracked vac line sound plausible for my current issues? If so, I'm not sure what kind of hose to use to replace it. :confused:
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Okay so I looked for cracked vac lines and was amazed by what I found!
The hose going to what I think is the MAP sensor was completely torn in half. I'm assuming that's not good eh? :confused:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/kavick/Vacline1.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/kavick/Vacline2.jpg)
I also have a couple of cracked connector hoses. This includes one the MAP sensor vac line is attached too. I went ahead and fixed that one with a new piece of hose.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/kavick/Vacline3.jpg)
This other cracked conector I'm not so sure how to fix. I have no idea where to purchase another angles connector like this one. Anybody have suggestions?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/kavick/Vacline5.jpg)
My engine is also throwing this sequence of codes at me.
Counting the sequence befor it pauses..
3....9....6...10 (Might be off by one)
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This other cracked conector I'm not so sure how to fix. I have no idea where to purchase another angles connector like this one. Anybody have suggestions?
Have you tried Advanced Autoparts, AutoZone, O'Reillys, Napa, etc? I got all of mine at Advanced Autoparts... Just take the broken one with you so that you can compare prices. And yes, the cracked vacuum lines will make the Jeep run like crap!
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This other cracked conector I'm not so sure how to fix. I have no idea where to purchase another angles connector like this one. Anybody have suggestions?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/kavick/Vacline5.jpg)
My engine is also throwing this sequence of codes at me.
Counting the sequence befor it pauses..
3....9....6...10 (Might be off by one)
The engine won't run very well and should throw a code if the MAP isn't getting vacuum.
That last cracked hose connects the CCV to the manifold. You can pick one up at the dealer for around $20. I had to buy one last year. That includes the rubber fitting on both ends and the plastic hose. I bet that brass fitting might be clogged as well.
I think you're way off on the CEL codes again.
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,3419.0.html
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look in the windshield washer repair stuff to that will also work for vacuum lines and bends and elbows. every time I get some from kits i keep them in my tool box for stuff like that.
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The severed MAP vacuum line alone could cause all the drive-ability issues you have been experiencing, figures always something simple in the end eh.
You can go to Pick & Pull for allot of those little vac lines and such, if your not up for buying the replacement parts from the dealership. Or you could build your own with the silicone hoses you can get cheap on eBay, or from local part stores for not as cheap. I bought 10 meters of the silicone hose on eBay for 10 bucks, to use for vac lines with my turbo conversion the stuff works great.
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By the way, are the Jeep's hoses 4mm or 6mm? I always forget...
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when you figure this out please post.
i have the same problem
19# injector install. lumpy idle, smooths out as it warms up, amnd poor acceleration. my vacume lines seem intack......... tried restarting the computer, no schange.
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Fixed all vac lines and etc. Still running bad but have narrowed everything down.
New thread.
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,6312.0.html