4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: chrisfranklin on February 23, 2009, 02:50:33 PM
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I figure with this setup --31MTs and stock gearing -- you lose 5th gear on inclines and sacrifice some mpg. But is on-road drivability that much worse than with 29 ATs? Maybe a bit of a loss in acceleration, maybe some more road noise, lower top speed.
I'm running out of rubber on my current ATs (Bridgestone Revos btw -- great tires for more than 4 years), so I am considering 31MTs, maybe BFG or Firestone's Destination.
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You're not going to lose 5th gear with tires that small. I'm running 35's with stock gearing.
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road noise aint gonna be that bad either
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I'm running 4:88 gears, and with my jump from 33's to 35's, it was hardly noticeable. I think you'll be just fine :smokes:
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I ran 31s w/ stock gearing for years and didn't have any problems. Heck I ran a while w/ 34's and stock gearing and other than making 5th a little useless, it was livable.
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I ran 31's (HT, not MT, so a bit smaller than MT) for about 2 years with the stock gearing (4.10). Now I have 4.88 with the same tires, but I am planning to go up to 33's MT in the near future (I regeared for 33's).
Regarding 31's with stock gearing, you will have to downshift to 4th at highway speeds if there is a headwind or if you are going up an incline. Other than that, it drives fine, so feel free to go ahead and do it...
Felipe
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I have 31x10.50 BFG A/T with stock 4.10 gearing. No problem.
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I have some procomp 31 mt's. Only had to change my rims, because they were so wide when I turned the wheel, they rubbed on the leaf springs. They also are a bit noiser, a tad less power, but I don't need gears. I did upgrade my throttle body for better hill climbing and mud. Well worth the $20.
Justin
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I have some procomp 31 mt's. Only had to change my rims, because they were so wide when I turned the wheel, they rubbed on the leaf springs. They also are a bit noiser, a tad less power, but I don't need gears. I did upgrade my throttle body for better hill climbing and mud. Well worth the $20.
Justin
:yikes:
There is a TB that helps you crawl though mud????????????????????
Where can I get one? :twofingers:
:stick:
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I wouldn't go any bigger then 31's for off road use with the 2.5L & 4.10/4.11's. very hard on the clutch drive line and engine making it work and redlining to get to a decent rpm range in the next gear. when i ran 31x10.5R15's with my 4.11's it was a great combo. when i went to 33's I burnt out my brand new clutch in less then a year from take off and crawling in the bush. I have currently just re-geared my diff's to 4.88's for the 33's witch is the most you can get out of the dana 30 up front. and seams to be a great match but I don't want to go any bigger tire or I would want to re-gear again witch would required changing the diff's. plus the dana 30 on the axle chart only recommends up to 32's-33's and the dana 35 only recommends 33's.
but going to 31's is fine really it's only 1/2-1" difference in lift 1-1 1/2 total tire size.
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plus the dana 30 on the axle chart only recommends up to 32's-33's and the dana 35 only recommends 33's.
For anyone who thinks that a stock Dana 30 is a weak axle, I invite you to check out the link below for a video on you tube of my buddy's truck. It is a 90 S-10 Blazer with a 95 Chevy 350 TBI, rear axle is a 8.8 from a 91 Explorer, and the front is a stock Dana 30 from a Jeep Cherokee. The tires are 33x12.5R15 BFG Muds, now the way my budz drives with a heavy foot, I dont think there is any way you can say that little axle is weak. Now it is an open diff but still the abuse that i have seen the Dana 30 axle take from a V8 and 33's would say that for what the Dana 30 is it is not to bad in the strength Dept.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OarnTF2jCME
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Why does it say when I try to send someone a PM by clicking on their name that "many apologies, but you cant view just and profile"
What the hell is that about? Since when?
Anyway, I was wondering how you got a bigger (I'm assuming you got the 4.0 TB) throttle body for 20 bucks 1995yj? Sorry if this is off topic, I tried to PM you but the above happened.
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Why does it say when I try to send someone a PM by clicking on their name that "many apologies, but you cant view just and profile"
What the hell is that about? Since when?
Anyway, I was wondering how you got a bigger (I'm assuming you got the 4.0 TB) throttle body for 20 bucks 1995yj? Sorry if this is off topic, I tried to PM you but the above happened.
I would guess, junkyard...
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i got one off a buddy who was parting out a jeep for 20$
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For anyone who thinks that a stock Dana 30 is a weak axle, I invite you to check out the link below for a video on you tube of my buddy's truck. It is a 90 S-10 Blazer with a 95 Chevy 350 TBI, rear axle is a 8.8 from a 91 Explorer, and the front is a stock Dana 30 from a Jeep Cherokee. The tires are 33x12.5R15 BFG Muds, now the way my budz drives with a heavy foot, I dont think there is any way you can say that little axle is weak. Now it is an open diff but still the abuse that i have seen the Dana 30 axle take from a V8 and 33's would say that for what the Dana 30 is it is not to bad in the strength Dept.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OarnTF2jCME
I'm not saying that it won't take some abuse. but it could also be luck. plus if it's not rated that heavy your risking breakdown. and if your like me and run miles back in the bush for a run you don't want to blow a axle. or even risk it. I have lots of buddy here with stock axles running 35's to 38's. and I have seen them shear mounting brackets completely off and do gear and axle damage shear spines or even split cases . if your willing to pay the tow bill vs just building it stronger or not exceeding the max suggesting your running the risk of failure components.
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I drove a friends Jeep with 31's and stock gears and this was after driving mine with 32's and stock gears. His felt downright peppy while mine felt slow and slug-ish. Then we swapped mine to 4.56's and it was damn quick compared to his.
I think 31's are good on a 2.5L with stock gears. Actually I think it's better then good as you should be able to do most trails with this setup. The only other consideration would be to go with 33x9.5 or 33x10.5's if you wanted larger without having the increase in weight and rolling resistance.
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Why does it say when I try to send someone a PM by clicking on their name that "many apologies, but you cant view just and profile"
What the hell is that about? Since when?
Anyway, I was wondering how you got a bigger (I'm assuming you got the 4.0 TB) throttle body for 20 bucks 1995yj? Sorry if this is off topic, I tried to PM you but the above happened.
Craigslist baby. $20 for a TJ 4.0L Throttle Body and the guy threw in his Air Cleaner and Stock tube. I was like :thumbsup: "Sure. Thanks!"
Looks like this kinda, minus the K&N (https://www.phatperformanceparts.com/photos/1011-0496.jpg)
BTW, I have some better low end power when I said hill climbing and mud. Didn't mean crawling in the mud. :asshat: That's what you do when you attempt to go slow or too stupid in it. Been there, crawled on my hands and knees out of that. (Not yet in my jeep, but there's always a first for everything I guess.)
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I'm not saying that it won't take some abuse. but it could also be luck. plus if it's not rated that heavy your risking breakdown. and if your like me and run miles back in the bush for a run you don't want to blow a axle. or even risk it. I have lots of buddy here with stock axles running 35's to 38's. and I have seen them shear mounting brackets completely off and do gear and axle damage shear spines or even split cases . if your willing to pay the tow bill vs just building it stronger or not exceeding the max suggesting your running the risk of failure components.
I wouldn't feel too safe with 33's and the D-35. Having the 4 banger helps be easy on it but 33's are notorious for assiting in the snapping of D-35 axle shafts. I had always heard up to 35" tires for the D-30 though? Either way it is WAY tougher than the D-35.
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I wouldn't feel too safe with 33's and the D-35. Having the 4 banger helps be easy on it but 33's are notorious for assiting in the snapping of D-35 axle shafts. I had always heard up to 35" tires for the D-30 though? Either way it is WAY tougher than the D-35.
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=57 (http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=57)
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Axle Style Maximum Tire Diameter
Chrysler 8.25 33 inches
Dana 30 32 inches
Dana M35 33 inches
Dana M20 35 inches
Dana 44 34 inches
Ford 8.8 35 inches
GM 8.5 35 inches
Toyota 8 34 inches
this came off my installation instructions of my 4.88's yukon gears I just bought!!
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The dana 30 in a TJ does pretty darn well with 35" tires lot of peeps here in So Cali run that way on rocks and do quite well with it
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ya well I'm not saying it's not going to work. I'm just saying your drastically reducing it's life span. TJ's aren't very old yet give it till it's the age of a YJ & CJ.
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also want to add TJ have a optional axles Dana 44's with/without lockers
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if you want fully dependable axles with over 33's. I would recommend finding full floating axles
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Chris the weakest part on a YJ dana 30 is the 2 piece axle shaft and the smaller u joints.
swap those for some TJ shafts with spicer 760 u joints and wheel it. Granted it still will not acommodate 5.13 gears but other than that lots of people using a Dana 30 hard in YJ's as well as TJ's
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sorry I think the topic has gotten off topic lol. 31x10.5's or narrower. with stock gearing as long as your diff came 4.11 with the 4cld. any bigger your going to want to re-gear. any bigger then 33's I personally recommend at least going to dana 44's .
hope that helps
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I run 33X10.50's got a D-44 rear and D-30 front (currently collecting parts to put in a D-44) with 4.88's and Aussie F&R and it's a great improvement over stock. However, I'm planning on putting the D-44 up front so 1) I won't be wasting $ on an OX locker if I ever want to go bigger on the engine 2) 4WD HIGH needs a little more umph (got a Tera Low 4:1) it does ok but when it getts slick (expecially on a hill climb) the gearing is not low enough in HIGH and to low in LOW. 5.13 or 5.38 would be my optimal gearing.
If you think the D-35 is ok for 35" tires and the D-30 is not you should look into the # of D-35 breaks vs. D-30 breaks.
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I run 33X10.50's got a D-44 rear and D-30 front (currently collecting parts to put in a D-44) with 4.88's and Aussie F&R and it's a great improvement over stock. However, I'm planning on putting the D-44 up front so 1) I won't be wasting $ on an OX locker if I ever want to go bigger on the engine 2) 4WD HIGH needs a little more umph (got a Tera Low 4:1) it does ok but when it getts slick (expecially on a hill climb) the gearing is not low enough in HIGH and to low in LOW. 5.13 or 5.38 would be my optimal gearing.
If you think the D-35 is ok for 35" tires and the D-30 is not you should look into the # of D-35 breaks vs. D-30 breaks.
you can't get gearing in the d30 bigger then 4.88's & it's I don't see many rear diff's being d30's and to compare d35's breaking when there the diff most used being in the rear vs the d30 that's only used in 4x4. that's a unfair comparison. the d30 is tested and rated lower then the d35 how is that not enough to go by?
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D30 will still be going when the D35 spit parts all over the trail. A bunck of us run rocky trails almost every weekend most of us use 35's most of them have a d44 in the rear and a d30 up front works just fine for pretty hard wheeling. Love my Terralow but agree that the step between low and high is to big. A 3 speed atlas or stack would be the ticket
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Your CHART is wrong. Google it. The D-35 WILL break well before the D-30. If you've spent any time on difficult trails with Jeeps that have a D-35 you'd know that. As for the rear only giving out in when in 4x4 see previous sentence (ie if its difficult you'd be in 4x4). Maybe you've got the the number associated to the axle confused with axle size? D-35 doesn't stand for 35" tire. Obviously not done much research on the D-35. Oh, I know that the D-30 is capped at 4.88 thats why I mentioned collecting parts for the D-44? To have done as much mechanical work as you claim in other posts your laggin!
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Just realized that TOURCH didn't even start this thread just started spouting crap and wants it on topic :roflol: :drink: :eek: :nono: :baby: :puzzled: :smooch: :stick: :pot: :twofingers:
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To accommodate the 31MTs, I was looking at trimming the fenders and adding a one inch shackle lift, no big deal.
I'll probably use TJ flares or something close to them.
The shackles are a question though. Plenty of 1 inch kits out there -- w/poly bushings, without bushings, with metal brackets, boomerang, different grade bolt hardware. I've had good luck with poly bushings in the past, at least on sway bars. But I don't want to maybe stiffen up this YJ's suspension too much running shackles with those metal reenforcement brackets. What should I do, just buy a 1 inch setup with poly bushings and refrain from adding the included metal reenforcements? Also are boomerangs worth the coin? :beer:
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Actually i took a second and did a search here and shackles have certainly been discussed in the past. It looks like 1 inch boomerangs are good for the rear and then just do regular 1 inch shackles for the front. And don't add the brace if you want a little more flexibility.
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A rough ride from leaf springs come from the friction from the movement on the springs as well as the freedom of the movement of the springs. Freedom of movement relates to the shocks as well as the capability of the shackle to swing. Shocks have to be valved correctly to minimize the oscillation of the movement of the axle. The shackle lengthens and shortens the leaf so that it can move with the axle. By tightening the bolts which hold the shackle to the leaf as well as the frame mount too much will give restriction to the swing movement. Friction on the leaves themselves can provide a rough ride. The ends of the leafs are now usually tapered to provide less friction contact area between them. They also usually have a plastic or rub-type isolator as well on the end to minimize the contact friction. As the springs flatten or convex, the end of the spring rubs the spring above it. This friction translate back to the ride. Also, many leaf springs will have a clamp around them to secure the leafs together. If this is tight, the leaves don't have a way to separate from each other and the full contact surface provides friction and gives a rough ride. Each leaf has a different natural bend to them. This gives them the progressive spring rate. The locations where the springs contact each other is at the ends of the leafs and in the middle where the center pin is located. Anything beyond that will give a rough ride.
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Just realized that TOURCH didn't even start this thread just started spouting crap and wants it on topic :roflol: :drink: :eek: :nono: :baby: :puzzled: :smooch: :stick: :pot: :twofingers:
just trying to help sorry your afended by my knoledge google stuff doesn't always tell you the truth ask dana what they say it won't say 35's for the d30
you can do what ya want... have fun with your ducks
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You can always run a set of Rockwells and 31"s if you are afraid if you might possibly break something :dance:
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why are we concerned about 31s and stock gearing? i still run 31s and stock gearing and havent had a problem yet. id like to upgrade to 32s but dont have the $$ right now-my 31s fit my 2.5" lift just fine and it all works well as a package altogether. Plus u can fit 31s on a tj and not have to adjust or lift the vehicle
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Would 32's be ok with the stock gearing on a 2.5l TJ on the roadway until enough cash is gotten for a regear?
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Would 32's be ok with the stock gearing on a 2.5l TJ on the roadway until enough cash is gotten for a regear?
They will work OK. I drove that way for several years till I finally got enough parts to do a gear swap. Personally, I think I'd rather have gone with 33x10.5R15's as they have less rolling and wind resistance and fit better on a stock wheel.
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wouldnt u need at least a body lift to fit the 32s?
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wouldnt u need at least a body lift to fit the 32s?
And wheels with more offset...
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They will work OK. I drove that way for several years till I finally got enough parts to do a gear swap. Personally, I think I'd rather have gone with 33x10.5R15's as they have less rolling and wind resistance and fit better on a stock wheel.
I would have thought the problem with the 33x10.5's with stock gears would be the amount of power/gearing to turn those from a standing start. 32's being only 1 inch taller and 33's being twice that.
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I would have thought the problem with the 33x10.5's with stock gears would be the amount of power/gearing to turn those from a standing start. 32's being only 1 inch taller and 33's being twice that.
Like I said, the 33's will have less rolling resistance, since they are an inch thinner then the 32's.
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Like I said, the 33's will have less rolling resistance, since they are an inch thinner then the 32's.
:thumb: gotcha
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:thumb: gotcha
I re-geared to 4.88's when i went to 33x12.5's was much better..
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just trying to help sorry your afended by my knoledge google stuff doesn't always tell you the truth ask dana what they say it won't say 35's for the d30
you can do what ya want... have fun with your ducks
Lighten up man.
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I'm running 4.88's with 35's...only a hair worse (seat of the pants review) than when I was running 4.10's and 31's.
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Not trying to piss you off tourch but you got several critics of your axle strength opinions and wanted to move on. Started out just kidding around with you but I guess that hurt your feelings? Sorry about that, here is some good info off Pirate4x4.
D30 Front Axle:
Full/Semi Floating
Vehicles: From ’72 CJ-5, CJ-6, CJ-7, CJ-8, YJ, TJ, XJ, ZJ, C104, WJ
Ring Gear: 7.125”, 7.33” (TJ/WJ Only)
Stock Gearing: 3.07, 3.54 (3.55), 3.73, 4.10 (4.11)
Axleshaft Spline: 27
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.16”, 1.193” (TJ/WJ Only)
Axle Joint: Spicer 260X (pre ’95.5), Spicer 297/760X (post ’95.5), CV & 760 U-Joint (TJ/WJ)
Knuckle: Open
Brakes: Drum 11” (pre ’76), Disc (post ’76)
Weakness: 260X U-joint; YJ Vacuum motor fails; standard CV problems
Width: 51” (’72-’75 CJ, C-104), 53” (’76-’81 CJ), 56” (’82-’86 CJ), 60.5” (TJ, YJ, XJ, WJ)
Wheel Bolt: 5x5.5” (CJ/C-104), 5x4.5” (others)
Max Recommended Tire Size: 35”
D35 Rear Axle:
Semi-floating (’85-’89), C-clip (’90 and later)
Vehicles: Most XJ; YJ; TJ (except Rubicon); ZJ; some WJ
Ring Gear: 7.562”
Stock Gearing: 3.07, 3.54 (3.55), 3.73, 4.10 (4.11)
Axleshaft Spline: 27
Axleshaft Diameter: 1.13”
Brakes: Drum 11”; Disc (later ZJ/WJ)
Weakness: Weak carrier & axleshafts
Width: 60.5”
Wheel Bolt: 5x4.5”
Max Recommended Tire Size: 33”
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whatever man stuff from dana doesn't rate it that hight didn't realize pirate 4x4 built dana's
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http://www.yukongear.com/Downloads/Technical_Help/Installation_Kit_Instructions.pdf
that's the install book I got with Yukon gear kit I just got and you can check the bottom for the rating on the d30 and d35. these guys actually make the product not host wed sites for forum's but you can believe who ever you want.
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http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=57
found another one
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do you have any certificates saying you have ever been trained with this stuff?? I do!!
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Certificates don't mean ione is right all the time either. Dana 30 dioes fine for a lot of people on 35's can you granate it? You bet same goes for a Dana 44 or Dana 60 or 70 or 80 for that matter seen all of them scatter and splatter. Been a mechanic for over 30 years seen a helluva lot of broken stuff in my time and yes I own a whole load of certificates too
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ya but all I'm saying is Dana doesn't recommend anything bigger then then 32's on the dana 30 and 33's on the dana 35 anything bigger your asking for it to break down on you. and jcsanders79 thinks because others have ran bigger and other sites say it's ok that if's not against the fabricators recommendations If someone brought there truck in under warranty with a blow up diff and 35's new Jeep tj with stock dana 30 & 35 it would have warranty void all over it. and who would that person turn to? would jcsander79 pay for it now because he said it was ok?
thats all I was trying to get at. that recommendations anything over 33's is "recommended" go bigger axles or it's a ticking time bomb..
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Obviously your diligent at following directions, congratulations :bow:
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I have followed this thread from the beginning and it seems that the same issue is brought up, this being that stock YJ & TJ axles are weak when subjected to bigger tires. I don't think anyone will argue that if you put on bigger rubber and 4wheel hard you are gonna have stock axle breakage, this has been well established from experience alone. They way I see it and no offense to anyone but either put on your bigger tires, play and fix if you break, or go buy/build a set of custom Dana 60's and then you wont have the weak axle problem.
Now correct me if I'm wrong but in the end its all about the money, so if you got it you spend it and upgrade the weak axles, and if you don't you make due with what you can.
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St Chevrolet you are 100% correct go wheel it see what breaks fix it and move on. I wheel with a lot of guys with Jeeps, most of them have Dana 30 up front, most of them run 35's so far all of them have made it home.
Can it break of course can a Dana 60 break you bet. Dana 35 I have seen more axle shafts come out those.
but then have seen Dana 44 axle shafts break too, just takes a lot more effort.
The question is how much wheeling has our other friend done with his Jeep. How many times has his stuff broken
and so forth its great to make recommendations or claims. A manufacturer tends to err seriously on the side of caution in case of a dana 35, 31 tires can break them all depends what you do with the thing. On those the axle shafts like to break as well as the spider gears. Super 35 is an improvement but expensive
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So I order a set of 31" MTs and 1" lift shackles front and rear, boomerangs on the back end. Given that the tires are going to give me another roughly 1 inch of ground clearance, shouldn't just a one inch shackle lift be enough to allow for the tires? Or will it be: "Yeah you'll clear the new tires ok with just those shackles... that is until your suspension flexes to any degree. Then you'll rub badly."
Seems like I'll probably have to make a date with a Sawzall at some point.
You TJ drivers are lucky you can run 31s without a lot of hassle. :finger: (joking)
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Keep in mind the oldest YJ is 10 years older then the newest TJ so springs will sag. A Stock height YJ will clear 31's just as a TJ would. It's been done for many years. Jeep used to do it to their fleat of Jeep Jamboree fleet that would only run the Rubicon.
The least of your worries is rubbing. That can be easily fixed by turning out the steering stops. The Jeep won't flex with the trackbars on. More then likely, they will break the hangers off the frame if you try too hard. Disconnects should also be installed. Then the brakelines should be extended. etc... Tires are only the tip of the iceberg.
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Good points Jeffy. I already have metal brake lines installed from a few years back that are supposed to accommodate a 4" lift; Right now I kind of have way longer brake lines than I need. I removed the trackbars a couple of years back. And I did spacers instead of adjusting the stops
Yeah I'll have to do something about the sway bar. Rubber bushings on it are shot anyway, so its a good time to get some kind of sway disconnect setup
As for the original, 15 year old leaf springs I've got? I don't even want to know how flat those things are :'(
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And wheels with more offset...
Whats offset mean? Sorry I'm kinda new to this Jeep thing...
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Where the mounting surface is in relation to the center of the wheel.
Read this..... https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
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Can it break of course can a Dana 60 break you bet.
It better not....... :eek:
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It better not....... :eek:
Remember Tinknocker that was with us at The Cliffs? I watched him bust a 60 shaft into 4 pcs with his 4 banger, it happens.
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Remember Tinknocker that was with us at The Cliffs? I watched him bust a 60 shaft into 4 pcs with his 4 banger, it happens.
Well...if someone was going to break one, it would be him.....and I know you are not comparing my wheeling to his... :roflol:
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Kinda hard to break something wheeling the Michigan highways Moz :dance:
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Kinda hard to break something wheeling the Michigan highways Moz :dance:
True...and probably didn't have a chance a The Cliffs....this guy had a hardcore 4-banger though...
http://www.youtube.com/v/A8XNbvxvWJE&hl=en&fs=1
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It better not....... :eek:
remember that most people dont buy a new Dana 60 when they add them as a upgrade, due to cost most buy used older Dana 60's. I found My Dana 60 used for 50 bucks and in not bad shape, needless to say near to impossible to duplicate that deal haha.
With older axles the metal in the axle shaft can sometime become weakened from time and hard use, now i completely rebuilt my 60 not everyone does that due to cost (way over 1000 bucks) they run em as found. This is in most cases why big axles break in situations that one would think they cant break.
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Actually it's usually when the driver doesn't let up when the rig starts hopping. All the weight comes down on one tire with full throttle and when it get traction *snap*
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That or kind of get a wheel caught and then romp on it to get it to move seen an axlle snap like that with a good lowrange you can put an awfull lot of torque to the wheels
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Actually it's usually when the driver doesn't let up when the rig starts hopping. All the weight comes down on one tire with full throttle and when it get traction *snap*
Even with that situation there is no way that a rebuilt Dana 60 would have any problems with a 4banger even running large tires, unless it has some dam big gear reduction or huge forced induction. The T-case would fly apart long before the Dana 60 would. I run a Dana 60 front in my 1 ton Chevy with 37x13.5-R17's, it is fully locked with 5.13 gears, and I have tried to break it with a V8 with no luck at all even with the above described situation.
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Seen it with my own eyes..... Hard to break, yes. Impossible, no.
And it was not because the shafts were "old" both rear tires caught air from hopping and the right rear came down between two rocks and was forced to stop with full throttle still applied.
Carb'd 2.5L, AX15, 207 case, 5.13 gears
Play this vid, at 5:00 he's doing the same thing. No breakage this time cause the wheel didn't get trapped like it did when it broke, but you get the idea.
http://www.ecoyne.com/getvid.php?id=22
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Thus why a 14bolt makes a better rear lol
I didn't know we were talking about rear axles but there are light duty Dana 60 rears that are out there to, the fronts tent to be bigger unless they are really old with the stepped down axle shafts. In kinda thinking that the 60 was one of the smaller axle shaft ones out there, more likely to have them break rather then the 35 spline rear Dana 60s.
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That or kind of get a wheel caught and then romp on it to get it to move seen an axlle snap like that with a good lowrange you can put an awfull lot of torque to the wheels
That is what I'm affraid of each time I see a undercut. With over 200:1 and 37's the 30 spline shafts in the rear can snap pretty easy(D44). Even though they are cryo'ed cromo's.
Like others have said, bouncing is another way to snap stuff. Seems like it's the 3rd bounce then KA-BAM!