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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: cletz97 on April 14, 2009, 10:02:42 AM
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i wanna wire my fan so it will turn on and off with the switch, but also have an adjustable thermostat.
does anyone know the right wire to go into?
also any wiring diagrams for this set up?
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Add the thermostat and switch to the +12 Key source off the relay.
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Yes, switch goes inline to the power to the thermostat. DcControl makes a great variable fan controller if you're interested.
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where is the wire relative to the fuse box and the battery?
and do u know the color?
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So you already have an electric fan?
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im picking it up today, and wanted to do it this weekend cause its gonna be high 60s around me
thats if i finish installing new injectors, throttle body and intake
im getting the ford tourus (cant spell) fan
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where is the wire relative to the fuse box and the battery?
and do u know the color?
You need to run your own wiring if you're replacing a mechanical fan with an electric fan.
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You need to run your own wiring if you're replacing a mechanical fan with an electric fan.
i think he was more asking where/ what wire from the power box you can tap out of for the fan.
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I ran mine directly to the postive battery terminal. And the way I wired it is that I have 40A relay (with a 40A fuse next to the battery) connected to the slow speed of the fan and the DCC controller connected to the high speed. I used a 3 position switch and connected the bottom position to the DCC controller (auto) and the top postition to the relay (override on) and left the center position as off (for river crossings and such) and ran the low current wires to the relays under the hood (I dont like to have high currents inside the dash; fire risk!). Just make sure you use the correct gauge of wires for everything (it will change based on length). And by the way, I also recommend the DCC controller Bounty mentioned...
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yea i like that idea of the controller box i just ran out of money for my jeep so i have to wire myself
so your fan is on a switch? and does it only come one when it is needed to be on?
i was gonna run the wires so it would only get power when the ignition was on, then only run when the engine needs to be cooled
i didn't really wanna deal with switches cause i don't plan many water crossings and i don't wanna leave it on and kill my battery
cause i already run lights and a sound system so i figured the battery will die easy with all that.
and chardrc that is what i was looking to do so the fan wouldn't run with out the engine on
also where can i pick up a thermostat? my fan didn't come with one
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so your fan is on a switch?
Yes and no; the switch decides if the DCC controller or the relay control the fan.
and does it only come one when it is needed to be on?
Only when the DCC controller is chosen to control the fan; if the relay is used, the fan stays on as long as the ignition is on.
i was gonna run the wires so it would only get power when the ignition was on, then only run when the engine needs to be cooled
i didn't really wanna deal with switches cause i don't plan many water crossings and i don't wanna leave it on and kill my battery
cause i already run lights and a sound system so i figured the battery will die easy with all that.
My switch is powered from an ignition source, which means with the key off, there is no juice going to the wire, which means no juice gets to th relay, so the fan cannot run if the ignition is off.
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all i did with mine was ran one wire to the a ground and the positive wire thru the fire wall and plugged it into the ingition fuse under the stering wheel
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You have to be aware of the amperage draw of the fan vs. the size wire you use, and the location of the power source. You also need the appropriate inline fuse.
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the wires are not going to far but i planned on using a 10 gauge with the 40a fuse, and a 40a relay. and i'm gonna wire it out of an ignition source once i find out where that wire is. still need a thermostat tho, and that should be located between the power source and the positive part of the electric fan right?
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The thermostat is generally low amperage and should be inline with the low amp switched power feed to the relay, not the high amp side to the relay that in turn goes to the fan.
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I plan on using one or two unused spots in my PDC for a 40amp fuse, jumper a wire to the fuel pump feed, and run one or two switches. If only one, it'll be three positions; controller, on, and off. If two, I will just add a two position with "high" and "low" inline with the first switch, to specify speed whether I'm in control or not.
Does that make sense? I'm usually pretty good at this but it's kinda late...
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Which fan do you have? The reason I ask is that low speed of the FoMoCo fan is more tan enough to keep the Jeep cool (you dont really need the highspeed unless you are already overheated and need to cool the engine down PRONTO!).
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Which fan do you have? The reason I ask is that low speed of the FoMoCo fan is more tan enough to keep the Jeep cool (you dont really need the highspeed unless you are already overheated and need to cool the engine down PRONTO!).
None yet, but the plan is a taurus/FoMoCo. I have heard that before, that's why I have a two step plan. I'm thinking wiring in a high speed is good insurance down here (south western AZ), where it's already getting into the triple digits this week.
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None yet, but the plan is a taurus/FoMoCo. I have heard that before, that's why I have a two step plan. I'm thinking wiring in a high speed is good insurance down here (south western AZ), where it's already getting into the triple digits this week.
Well, I live in Miami; not desert, but pretty hot none-the-less, and I have yet to have the Jeep reach 190* while runing the fan in constant low speed. With the Delta Current Controller (which is conencted to the high speed side - but keep in mind the controller has variable speeds according to temp), it ussually stays put at 210* (except when on the highway, when it goes down to about 195*); anything above that, and the controller takes action to keep it at the 210* mark).
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Well, I live in Miami; not desert, but pretty hot none-the-less, and I have yet to have the Jeep reach 190* while runing the fan in constant low speed. With the Delta Current Controller (which is conencted to the high speed side - but keep in mind the controller has variable speeds according to temp), it ussually stays put at 210* (except when on the highway, when it goes down to about 195*); anything above that, and the controller takes action to keep it at the 210* mark).
Hmm... Florida has the highest average temperatures in the world, but definately not highs at 120...
The Jeep was trying to overheat today, but I just bought new radiator hoses and need to put the shroud back on, that and straightening out some knocked rad fins should help it cool, but I can't wait for an electric fan! It feels so good with MPI, I know it will be even better without that danged mech fan! I'm gonna start a build thread detailing all my plans, I'm just stinking up this thread...
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It ussually does not go up to120*, but 100* are quite common during the summer, and the Jeep does fine (the fan actually turns off after it is done, and does not go to full speed, so there is plenty of cooling capacity in reserve).
Another thing that will help keep the Jeep cool is an aluminum radiator; I got mine for close to $100 on eBay (and it is the one with the aluminum tanks as well, so no issues with that!), and it cools much faster than the stocker I had on (even though this one is single row).
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It ussually does not go up to120*, but 100* are quite common during the summer, and the Jeep does fine (the fan actually turns off after it is done, and does not go to full speed, so there is plenty of cooling capacity in reserve).
Another thing that will help keep the Jeep cool is an aluminum radiator; I got mine for close to $100 on eBay (and it is the one with the aluminum tanks as well, so no issues with that!), and it cools much faster than the stocker I had on (even though this one is single row).
That's what I'm looking forward to; efficiency. If I don't need the fan, then it isn't there! makes me happy... haha.
I have an aluminum, but it's a pos cheapo replacement. The size of pre-87 XJ radiators is identical to YJ's, but the mounting is different... I think I might buy a junkyard one to modify, then find a fancier YJ replacement to actually use.
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aren't there soposed to be corrosion problems with having aluminum (radiator) and copper (heater core) messing up the cooling system? or am i just talking crazy again :stupid:
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aren't there soposed to be corrosion problems with having aluminum (radiator) and copper (heater core) messing up the cooling system? or am i just talking crazy again :stupid:
That only happens when different metals are in direct contact with each other. BTW, anti-freeze has anti-rust/corrosion properties in it.