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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: dtoliver on May 22, 2009, 09:16:23 AM
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I wanna replace my rear axle in my yj with a D44. Which would be the best option with the least amount of welding and fabricating, since I personally do not have a welder, to use: a D44 from a XJ or one from a MJ? I was thinking the MJ since they were SUA like the YJ. Or is there a better option out there?
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I am not sure the spring perch width on the MJ. It was my understanding that the perches would need to move a bit. Plus you want to make sure that the pinion angle is set to match your needs. Plus the shock mounts would need to be addressed.
When you swap out the rear whatever axle you put in is going to need some cutting and welding to make it work. Even if you bought one that was already under a YJ chances are the pinon angle would need to be corrected. Both the MJ/XJ D44 are great choices.
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You would need to relocate the spring perches on both the MJ and XJ d44 if you were to find them.
I like the Isuzu d44 because it has disc brakes, but it's best swapped in with a Waggy d44 front axle so you can have 6-lug wheels at each corner.
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I went with a XJ D44 since I knew someone who had one and it was dirt cheap. The perches on the XJ/MJ are not the same as the YJ so you will need to cut them off and reweld them. If you're wanting the easy route then you'd probably go with the XJ and leave the perches on the op of the axle as they are a PITA to remove. After it's all said and done I've probably invested $1000 into my axle. That includes, gears, locker, complete brakes, etc...
If I was going to do it again, I'd probably go with a Toyota 8" though. The Toy uses a housing like the Ford 9" so it's lighter then the Dana's. You'll most likely get 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern and if you get one from a TRD then you can also get an electric locker as well. Changing gears on a third-member are a lot easier then doing them in a housing so it's usually cheaper as well. You could convert the 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern to 5 on 4.5" buy swapping axle shafts with a 2wd Taco and redrilling the discs but then you might as well get a Wagonerer front while you're at it and regeat to 5.13 or 5.38:1.
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There is also the Ford 8.8 and 9 inch axles. Plenty strong and pretty easy to come by, not to mention can be had fairly cheap.
But without a welder it really don't matter what you go with since everything is going to need some welding. You could get whatever axle and cut off the perches/shock mounts yourself with a 4.5 inch grinder and save some money by prepping it yourself. Then bring everything to a shop and they can swap it in. Most shops get $60-90 per hour so the more you can do yourself the better.
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8.8 is going to be your best budget swap, since you can get a 4:10 ratio stock pretty easily. Finding an XJ/MJ with 4:10 is going to be pretty unlikely.
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8.8 would be a good swap since as stated, it has 4:10's. IIRC, some of the XJ's, particularly the 4 liter Automatics, came with 4:10's as well. So if you can happen to find one, either would be a good swap.
I've got a 9" I'm probably going to swap in as my D35 recently grenaded. The spring perches look like they're going to be a PITA to cut off...
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I'd look into the 8.8 swap. I got mine for $100 from a pull a part, D44s go for a good bit more, around here anyway.
edit: Look for a later Explorer/Mountainer and you get disc brakes to boot.
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8.8 would be a good swap since as stated, it has 4:10's. IIRC, some of the XJ's, particularly the 4 liter Automatics, came with 4:10's as well. So if you can happen to find one, either would be a good swap.
I've got a 9" I'm probably going to swap in as my D35 recently grenaded. The spring perches look like they're going to be a PITA to cut off...
4.0L XJ's did not come with 4.10's. If you get a Ford Ranger XLT you can get 4.56's but with drums (abit larger drums then the D35c.). The Explorers with the 4.10's were the 4.0L. Post 91's will have the 31 spline shafts and discs. Before that they used 28 spline shafts.
Your only limitation right now is the Dana 30 since you have a 9. Either swap out that D30 for a 44 amd go deep or just gear everything to 4.88:1.
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4.0L's did not come with 4.10's. If you get a Ford Ranger XLT you can get 4.56's but with drums (abit larger drums then the D35c.). The Explorers with the 4.10's were the 4.0L. Post 91's will have the 31 spline shafts and discs. Before that they used 28 spline shafts.
Your only limitation right now is the Dana 30 since you have a 9. Either swap out that D30 for a 44 amd go deep or just gear everything to 4.88:1.
I was told that the XJ's with the auto and towing pkg. came with 4:10's though? :stick:
As for the 9", I'm sticking with 4:88's. They turn my 35's fine and I'm still a little under 3K at 70 MPH. I can get 4:86's w/ an install kit shipped to my door for right around $200 (A guy on JF I talk back and forth with regularly has had good experiences ordering from the guy).
I actually just went out and tackled those spring perches and shock mounts on it. They came off easier than I expected :nod: I haven't convinced myself I'm doing the swap, but I seem to be working on the axle regardless lol. All I need to do is order an axle swap kit from Ruff Stuff Specialties and I'll be able to dial in my pinion angle while I wait for the gears and what not to come.
Again, for some reason I'm talking about all this work even though I'm not 100% sure I'm doing the swap. I think this is my way of talking myself into it :popcorn:
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I was told that the XJ's with the auto and towing pkg. came with 4:10's though?
You were told wrong, they all had 3.55, and the 4.0L 5spd is 3.07. Only the 4banger 5spd came with 4.10 gears in XJ's.
I'd go with the Ford 8.8 from a '95+ Exploder, got my last one with 4.10 for $100.
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Has the offset pumpkin on the 8.8 Ford given anybody U-joint problems? I don't run a lift-kit, so I've got the standard rear driveshaft. Will it's joints handle vertical & lateral offset?
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No problems here, I do run a DC shaft though.
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Has the offset pumpkin on the 8.8 Ford given anybody U-joint problems? I don't run a lift-kit, so I've got the standard rear driveshaft. Will it's joints handle vertical & lateral offset?
Offset does not matter to a U-joint as long as it doesn't exceed it's design. It's just one angle to it.
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Offset does not matter to a U-joint as long as it doesn't exceed it's design. It's just one angle to it.
But you need another second ujoint running the same angle to offset any vibes.
Don't worry about the pinion offset of the 8.8, it isn't enough to cause any problems.
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Here is a pic of the front driver's tire up on a ramp with the angle of a stock rear ds to a 8.8. Only thing added to the stock rear ds is the flange to bolt to the 8.8 pinion flange.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d99/jagular7/Articulating/Second%20Time/100_2277.jpg)
Front passenger tire up on a ramp.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d99/jagular7/Articulating/Second%20Time/100_2292.jpg)
However, from what I understand to be the question, I would suggest you look into a local 4wd club and find a reputable member that welds there. They usually have experience and can help you decide which route to take for the Jeep and your terrain you will be driving as well as outline availability and expense. Also, they will work for cheap compared to a reputable weld shop. Understand that liability will be on you and not the welder, thus talk to many members as you can to locate the better welder reputation.