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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: jcsanders79 on June 07, 2009, 08:40:43 AM
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I have had a check engine light for months now! Started with a catylitic converter, then a 1st bank O2 sensor, then the crankposition sensor and now its engine running lean. The guy at the parts store told me to get some electrical cleaner and clean my MAP sensor real well & some intake cleaner to clean the throttle body. Is this good advice to get rid of the code? Any other suggestions? Got a stage one chip, CAI, 62mm TB, TB spacer, header and mustang injectors if that helps?
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any vac leaks??
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any vac leaks??
and or exhaust leaks
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I recommend a new MAP sensor.
If you're going to clean the throttle body, take it off the jeep, remove all sensors, and give it a good bench cleaning.
Jet Performance now makes an air/fuel ratio gauge that uses the OEM o2 sensor.
(http://www.jetchip.com/Shop/ProdImages/AirFuelNB.jpg)
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any vac leaks??
[/quote
Don't know, any suggestions on how to find them?
and or exhaust leaks
There was but I fixed it before the code showed up.
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One good way to find a vacuum leak is to go to your local auto
parts store and buy a combo. vacuum tester, brake bleeder kit.
Then check every vacuum line that comes off the intake manifold,
even the brake booster. The only one that shouldn't hold vacuum
is the breather comming off the valve cover.
If nothing found, buy some starter fluid and with the engine running but COLD,
spray some around the base of the Carb/TB. and listen for an idle change.
I think I had the same Check Engine code as you, (#53), mine turned out
to be a combination of a bad manifold port plug and the O2 sensor.
But then again, my engine is also bone stock.
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Well cleaning the map sensor and TB didn't get rid of it so I guess I'll start vacum testing lines. Its actually running better than it has in a long time. On a side note I finally bored my intake out to 62mm and that mod is worthless until you do this! Much different.
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Well cleaning the map sensor and TB didn't get rid of it so I guess I'll start vacum testing lines. Its actually running better than it has in a long time. On a side note I finally bored my intake out to 62mm and that mod is worthless until you do this! Much different.
a vacuum leak will not result in a lean mixture, worst that can happen is to have your idle rpm increased (unless the leak is at the MAP sensor or on the same line - but in that case you would have bigger problems than the check engine light). In closed loop the computer adjusts the AFR using the O2 sensor output, at WOT (wide open throttle) doesn't matter anyway since the engine would suck in as much air as possible.
The vacuum leak does have an effect on engines that have MAF sensors or that have a carburator
Engine lean code would result from the computer trying to adjust the mixture and not being able to do so - this means that in closed loop based on the O2 sensor input the ecu was unable to alter the mixture and was reported lean - that most likely will happen when you have a fuel filter problem, fuel pump problem, fuel injector problem (can be plugged or an electrical problem preventing it to release fuel - in this case the engine would idle roughly).
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Just to add a note to my previous post - i am not sure if in open loop when the ECU runs on a preset air/fuel map if it will monitor the O2 sensor output - i mean i don't know if the lean code was reported in closed or open loop, if the latter you might want to look at the fuel pressure under load with WOT on a long uphill and see if it goes down - that would mean there is not enough fuel flow so would be either the pump or filter.
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Open loop means no feedback control of the fuel mixture. Lean codes are set when the oxygen sensor does not toggle rich for a certain amount of time at cruise speed.
The first thing to check would be to run it at full load and at wide open throttle and see if it holds back or in other words it lacks power but as soon as you ease up on the axxelerator some it will accelerate again, if so clogged fuelfilter or a bad fuel pump is the cause (or anything that causes the pump not to run at its full capacity)
If it does not do that I would start looking at fuel injectors, try to clean the injectors with injector cleaner or have them cleaned.
A vacuum leak can have some effect on the engine running but if its real bad it would cause a trick rich condition. Small vacuum leaks would be hidden by the ecm adkusting fuel delivery to the engine which you can pick up with a good scanner by looking at fuel trim
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Open loop means no feedback control of the fuel mixture. Lean codes are set when the oxygen sensor does not toggle rich for a certain amount of time at cruise speed.
what i was wondering was if it would report a lean code in open loop (would it monitor the O2 output in open loop mode - i understand that it will not adjust the injector duty cycle during open loop but rather work on a preset fuel map).
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My mistake on earlier thread, it would be error code #52.
It's my understanding that if the computer has to fatten up the fuel mixture
more than it's parameters have been set, it tells you so by saying your lean.
Error code #51 would be the opposite.
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i guess in that case would be fuel related (pump, filter or fuel return valve). Can't think of anything else as if there was a leak would be compensated by the MAP output and the engine would have a high(er) idle rpm.
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No lean code in open loop since the O2 sensor is not generating a voltage yet.
The newer 3 and 4 wire sensors with the built in heater go in closed loop fast.
Still open loop no voltage fluctuation, means not be able to generate a code
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Well cleaning the map sensor and TB didn't get rid of it so I guess I'll start vacum testing lines. Its actually running better than it has in a long time. On a side note I finally bored my intake out to 62mm and that mod is worthless until you do this! Much different.
When you say "this" at the end, are you talking about cleaning out the map sensor and TB (well not TB since you are putting in the 62mm that's presumably clean already)?
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No lean code in open loop since the O2 sensor is not generating a voltage yet.
The newer 3 and 4 wire sensors with the built in heater go in closed loop fast.
Still open loop no voltage fluctuation, means not be able to generate a code
I think i might have not explain my question the best way, so i'll try and rephrase - open loop is not just when the engine is cold and O2 sensor is not at operating temp, it also occurs during load when the ECU is preprogrammed and not using the O2 sensor feedback - however the O2 sensor is still giving a voltage just not accurate since it is not a wideband, but enough to tell that is lean (that most likely means below 0.45v which is equivalent to a 14.7 AFR or a lambda of 1) - the fuel map at full load would most likely target around 13.5 or so. So what i don't know is will the ecu monitor the voltage during that time, not when engine just started, at operating temp when you're at WOT with the pedal to the floor and trying to see how fast it goes (ecu will not use the O2 output to alter the AFR in this case, just don't know if it will monitor it and report lean if the voltage is below a certain level).
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If you read most code descriptions as to the conditions needed to set a code.
For lean or rich codes that is during cruise speed.
I know at full throttle there is no feedback control in essence the ecm pretty much commands full fuel thats programmed into its fuel map.
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Ok lots of info there. Since the TJ doesn't have a "servicable" fuel filter should I start at the rail? I've got mustang injectors, should I get a rebuild kit for them?
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I didn't see a way to disassemble the MAP sensor. Looked like it could receive a vacuum line and a three prong connector, but otherwise looked like a sealed unit. I must be missing something. ???
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was the code this
51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor
or this ('97 or later)
P1298 Lean Operation At wide Open Throttle
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Ok lots of info there. Since the TJ doesn't have a "servicable" fuel filter should I start at the rail? I've got mustang injectors, should I get a rebuild kit for them?
This is all for a YJ, you'll have to find out if your numbers are different, but the idea is the same
Check the fuel pressure at idle - for my YJ it is supposed to be 31psi if i remember correctly. Unplug the vacuum hose that goes to the fuel pressure regulator with the engine running at idle - the fuel pressure should jump to 39psi. Plug the vacuum hose back and turn off the engine, should hold pressure above 31psi.
if all this is good then go for a test drive, hwy and/or uphill preferably - floor the accelerator pedal and try to keep it there as much as possible (that's why a long uphill is preferred, we don't want you speeding or anything) - monitor the fuel pressure and make sure it stays put at 39psi, if you see it dropping then you don't have enough fuel flow. I would start by replacing the fuel filter and go from there. If it doesn't drop i'd say to reset the computer and see if the code comes back - if it does then it could be a few other things including injectors, i would check the fuel pressure first and go from there.
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I think it was this code? I'll have check to make sure.
P0171 (M) 1/1 Fuel System Lean A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor.
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I think it was this code? I'll have check to make sure.
P0171 (M) 1/1 Fuel System Lean A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor.
I guess is the same as 51 on earlier models based on description. Did you reset the computer and see if it throws the same code again? if it does you could also replace the injectors with your original ones to see if it happens again, if it doesn't then one of your ford ones might have a problem, if it does throw the same code look at the fuel pressure and flow (you could do it the other way around too, whatever is more convenient - for the fuel pressure you'll have to buy/borrow a hose with adapters/fittings for your fuel rail and pressure gauge, i assume you already have the old injectors). Could be as simple as the filter though, so if you did not change it in a long time you might want to go ahead and replace it since you have to do it at some point anyway.
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It did still throw the code after it was cleared. I have the old injectors and will start there. Thanks.
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if it does you could also replace the injectors with your original ones to see if it happens again, if it doesn't then one of your ford ones might have a problem, if it does throw the same code look at the fuel pressure and flow (you could do it the other way around too, whatever is more convenient - for the fuel pressure you'll have to buy/borrow a hose with adapters/fittings for your fuel rail and pressure gauge, i assume you already have the old injectors). Could be as simple as the filter though, so if you did not change it in a long time you might want to go ahead and replace it since you have to do it at some point anyway.
The fuel pump was swapped about a year ago under recall so I don't think that would be the problem. I'm going to swap the injectors, then check the fuel rail. Does anyone know the readings for the mustang injectors? I not sure it will really matter since I can check them all and if there is an odd ball I'll know its bad. Also any ideas on part numbers for the rebuild kits for the mustang injectors? Water pump blew today as well as the O2 sensor I just put in so I'll be at the parts store this weekend anyways. Thanks for the info.
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there was another thread and the person having an issue with ford injectors (i think) and it turned out that they were lower flow that the stock - have you checked the flow rating on the stock and compare with the ones you have on? just occurred to me that if that would be the problem in your case it would totally explain the error code (unless is the O2 sensor you just mentioned which can also result in the same code if it sends wrong info to the computer).
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The injectors have been on for a while without any problems. I think the other guy had a 2.4L and I have the 2.5L. Maybe it is the O2 sensor, that would be nice. I think I'll still get the rebuild kits for the injectors though.
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how do you rebuild them - aren't they sealed? not sure how that can be done but would be interesting to find out.
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I don't know if you would call it a rebuild but their is a picture of new o-rings and caps.
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,3479.0.html
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that's not a rebuild, it will just insure that the fuel rail does not leak and that the intake is sealed around the injector cap and there is no vacuum leak there.
what fails on an injector in time is the ability to atomize the fuel properly and also to seal when closed (not powered) - that makes it leak and drops of fuel enter the intake. I have heard of ultrasound cleaning of injectors, seen that done on the old style (and i am not talking about the solenoid actuated ones but the old pressure based injectors) with some results but out of 10 you would probably get 2 or 3 that were good. The solenoid can also fail on these, not a common occurrence but it can happen. I would look for new or almost new ones to purchase, i got a set of 8 32 lb/hr Accel for $70 + shipping off eBay, they were installed and taken out as they did not fit the person's application so I'm pretty sure you can get a set of 4 rated for your setup at a decent price. Just my opinion though, i would be interested in other options so let me know what you find
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Well cleaning the map sensor and TB didn't get rid of it so I guess I'll start vacum testing lines. Its actually running better than it has in a long time. On a side note I finally bored my intake out to 62mm and that mod is worthless until you do this! Much different.
Are you getting this code after your 62mm update?
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I got the code before I bored the intake out and its still here. The TB has been on for a while though.
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so it was there before the tb. does the engine have high miles? could be blow by going in to the intake throw the pcv system? what year is it?
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Its a 97' auto that was rebuilt around 105K (engine and trans) with another 25K on it. I had it rebuilt and have had little issue with it since. Didn't get to work on it like I hoped this weekend so I don't have any updates.
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did you end up replacing the O2? keep thinking about your problem and since yours is '97 seems odd that you don't get the wot code but only the closed loop one (odd in terms of not having enough fuel as if it was a fuel delivery problem should also appear at wot) - if you're OBDII (i think it is) you could monitor the fuel trim in closed loop with a usb scan tool and a laptop to see what you get, pcm should learn and the trim should decrease in time and since i think you mentioned your O2 needs to be replaced i'm thinking that might be the problem in the end. Keep us posted, really interested in hearing what the problem is when you get to the bottom of it. good luck!
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did you check the basic's also like fuel pressure. good spark or plug gap?
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I ironically have the same issue right now. I have a code 51 on my 95YJ. I just installed a 2.5l engine from a 97tj in the jeep and added a banks header. I was wondering if my issue is not enough fuel also. Everything seems to run very strong, however I keep getting that code 51. I used to stock fuel injectors and rail from my old engine and they were quite dirty. So If read this thread correctly, I should be see 31 psi on the rail with the vacuum line connected and 39 psi with it disconnected?
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I ironically have the same issue right now. I have a code 51 on my 95YJ. I just installed a 2.5l engine from a 97tj in the jeep and added a banks header. I was wondering if my issue is not enough fuel also. Everything seems to run very strong, however I keep getting that code 51. I used to stock fuel injectors and rail from my old engine and they were quite dirty. So If read this thread correctly, I should be see 31 psi on the rail with the vacuum line connected and 39 psi with it disconnected?
i'm not 100% on the 31 at idle (or throttle closed) - could be 30, but i am pretty sure on the 39 with no vac. Keep in mind that you are more likely to not have enough fuel when under load and when the injector duty cycle increases (stays opened more) and the required flow is higher - it is a good place to start, it will tell you if the fuel pressure regulator functions properly, you can then test it on the road and see if you lose pressure, but if it's too much you would actually feel the engine stumbling - if your press is lower under load at wot compared to when you unplug the vac at idle then it could be the filter or pump. You could run a test with te vac line disconnected on the road just to eliminate the possibility of not being at wot to make sure you don't get a "false positive".
did you use your old temp sensors for intake air temp and engine temp (dunno if that would make a difference for this particular code but something to consider).
EDIT: just noticed your comment on the injectors: if your injectors are plugged or don't deliver enough fuel your fuel pressure in the rail will not change or be affected in any way.
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I will have to test this out, look at the pressure. I just installed a new stock style fuel pressure regulator a couple months ago. (this rig is breaking the bank this year). I replaced the filter last summer. I will have to get apressure gauge on there and see if I can narrow the problem. I did end up using the old sensors from the old engine to minimumize issues of incompabliity, plus all of the new sensors had different plugs on them.
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what year is your Jeep? did you use your old throttle body (not sure if the tps is different or not)?
For a pressure gauge i used an autometer one but there are some cheap ones out there you can use (they won't be as accurate but just in case you want to go on a budget) - to connect to the fuel rail (this is for my '95 YJ so you'll have to make sure yours is the same) i used a braided stainless steel hose with AN-4 fittings at both ends and a female 1/4'' NPT to male AN-4 adapter to connect to the gauge. the hose has to be resistant to fuel. The pressure check thread on the fuel rail is AN-4 but if you use this setup you will have to remove the valve that is in the center (same as the tire valves, but don't loose this one as it is fuel resistant, the regular ones are not). There are also ready made fuel pressure gauges that have the adapter for the fuel rail so you don't have to remove the valve, i did it this way as i wanted to have the gauge permanently installed on the dash so i can monitor when driving. Double check the threads to make sure i didn't screw up on the info - did this about 3 years ago and it's a bit foggy :)
also, make sure there are no check valves on the map sensor vac line (there should be just a plastic vac line going to the intake with nothing on it) - i am just thinking that since you replaced the engine something might have gotten mixed up - not familiar with the 97TJ intake but check and see if the fitting where the MAP gets plugged in is flowing air both ways with no restrictions (unplug at the map and blow/suck air thru it, then follow the line and make sure it is straight to the intake and no other things on it).
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I have a 95. I am using a 4.0tb. I used it on the other engine for almost a year before it blew. Is your guage in the engine bay or did you run it through the fire wall and mount it somewhere inside the jeep? I will have to definiately check the vac lines again.
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it's inside on the dash, i will post a pic tomorrow with my dash and fuel rail so you can see how i did it.
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Strangely enough, I am also fighting a battle with code 51 ( aka p0171) A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor
My symptoms are:
it is blowing black smoke (unburnt fuel) out of the tailpipe, dripping raw fuel as well.
Exhaust smells horrid and can even smell it a bit on the highway too its so bad
12mpg average when I used to get 17 average.
Major loss in power.
Occasional backfire
Surges on acceleration.
I have been moving down the list replacing parts here is all I have done:
Replaced both o2 sensors
Replaced plugs and wires
Checked compression (all 4 cylinders are 145-150 psi)
Checked for vacuum leaks with a vacuum gauge (no leaks)
Ran injector cleaner through it. After that tank of gas I used seafoam.
Pulled the injectors and inspected them, they appeared to be in good shape. Tips were clean. Checked to see if they were leaky by priming the fuel system with the injectors pulled. None leaked when ignition was turned to on.
Checked air filter.. it is in decent shape so left it alone for the time being.
Checked fuel pressure.. steady 48 psi
Checked oil, looks good.
Still after all that.. the code remained.
Took off my cat and looks like the inside is melted. Since I'm pretty much out of all other options, I said screw it and just went ahead and ordered a magnaflow cat. Now I am just waiting for it to come in then will install it and see if the code still gets thrown.
If it does, then I am out of ideas.
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not sure if you did it yet, you might have but in case you didn't check the spark plugs and look at their color - make sure you remember where they came out from. Check the distributor cap and distributor, make sure there are no signs of wasted sparks. also check the wires and make sure they're ok
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not sure if you did it yet, you might have but in case you didn't check the spark plugs and look at their color - make sure you remember where they came out from. Check the distributor cap and distributor, make sure there are no signs of wasted sparks. also check the wires and make sure they're ok
sorry man, noticed that you had replaced the plugs - you should still take them out and inspect them - see what the color is or if any of them is wet (and if they all look the same or not).
does it idle in 3 cyl by any chance? you can check that by unplugging a wire at a time.
this is a long shot but i'll throw this idea in anyway: could it be a lifter/rod/rocker/valve issue? as i said, long shot - see what the spark plugs look like first and if they are all the same or major differences. Keep us posted.
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I have a 95. I am using a 4.0tb. I used it on the other engine for almost a year before it blew. Is your guage in the engine bay or did you run it through the fire wall and mount it somewhere inside the jeep? I will have to definiately check the vac lines again.
this is how i connected the braided hose with the AN-4 fitting, you can see that it runs thru the firewall sharing the same grommet as the wiring harness
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Misc/Fuel_Rail.jpg)
and this is where i put my gauge (top left one in this pic)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Misc/Instrument_Cluster.jpg)
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Thanks for the pics. That is a nice looking set up.
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Thanks for the pics. That is a nice looking set up.
thanks - i have in the plan to add a few things in there where the empty space is once i get all the projects done (like that's going to ever happen) - air compressor pressure gauge (if i ever end up installing it), air intake temp (that's for when i finish my supercharger setup which started 4 years ago i think), switches for the lockers and air compressor and if i have room maybe a clock. oh well, it never ends :)
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I have though about adding a turbo setup, based off of some of the member projects here. I need to get the current issues resolved first. Of course there is always the money issue also. I would like to do a lot of stuff with my car, I could do a lot more with the same money on it vs the jeep.
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Old plugs were black and brown with carbon deposits built up on them. All four of them. The new ones are undoubtedly getting to be just as bad since the system too lean code came back after I changed them. It does idle on 3 cylinders. Also, wouldn't a compression test indicate a valve problem? Thats the main thing I was testing for when I did a compression test. I couldn't imagine any problems with the engine internals really considering this is a rebuilt block with a little under 40k on it so far. Even if something did go wrong like lifter or something, you think it would affect the air/fuel mixture?
But aside from all that, I don't want to hijack someone elses thread because I have the same problem.
To those of you that also are experiencing the lean problems, I suggest going through the list of things that I did. I did a lot of research and a simple plug/wire change or vacuum test may fix or at least pinpoint your problem. I just hope you don't have as bad of luck as I have had....
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Old plugs were black and brown with carbon deposits built up on them. All four of them. The new ones are undoubtedly getting to be just as bad since the system too lean code came back after I changed them. It does idle on 3 cylinders. Also, wouldn't a compression test indicate a valve problem? Thats the main thing I was testing for when I did a compression test. I couldn't imagine any problems with the engine internals really considering this is a rebuilt block with a little under 40k on it so far. Even if something did go wrong like lifter or something, you think it would affect the air/fuel mixture?
the thing is that you have engine lean code but you say is blowing black smoke which is usually a sign of too rich, so somehow you get a feedback from the O2 that is too lean and the ECU will try to compensate by giving it more fuel (based on the code description) - now that might be the reason you are getting black smoke. You are right, the compression test should tell you if you have a bad valve. If it idles in 3 then find out which cylinder is and focus on that one (injector + spark related) - if it is not a constant one then it might be the O2 feedback that is bad, could be the sensor ground, the sensor itself or who knows - speculating here but it could also be that the spark is off randomly and you get unburned fuel in the exhaust which burns in your cat and there's the black smoke (you also said is dripping raw fuel and that your cat was burned inside so there was my thinking behind that). If you find the problem post an update as this is an interesting one.
Even if something did go wrong like lifter or something, you think it would affect the air/fuel mixture?
if for example 1 cylinder does not burn the air/fuel mixture you could get both more oxygen and raw fuel in the exhaust (should also have backfire though) - i didn't know if you eliminated the spark as a cause so that's why i suggested that, but your logic is correct, if an intake valve was stuck open or was bent or not open at all it should show on the compression test (given that all 4 cylinders show close to the same reading) - now if it is an exhaust valve that has a rod bent or rocker broken and it does not open you could still get a good compression reading but that cylinder won't participate at all - this was just a suggestion if you were running out of ideas and eliminated all the other possibilities
EDIT: also thinking of what could happen if an injector does not open at all, might just pump air in the exhaust and affect the o2 reading which could result in the ecu/pcm compensating and you would get more fuel in the other 3 cylinders and out in the exhaust as a result, but from what you described is quite extreme so again, just a thought along with all the other ones
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to bad I can't actually look at it cause I'm sure i could figure it out. if I was there. but makes it hard back and forth like this can give you hints but could be a number of things.
start with fuel pressure and spark
also 1 plugged fuel injector can do it.
any vacuum leak
bad sensor aka o2, map, mass,
scan tool data would really help in this situation that's how i diag them at the chev dealer if you can reset the fuel trim and it spirals back to rich it up then it's trial and error after that. also if the fuel trim you reset and the o2 sensor doesn't react to it guess what lol o2 sensor. but just to do it alone is much harder. I also found injector cleaners and intake cleaners will clean injectors and intake duhh but will also clean up a o2 sensor for a short period of time. witch can miss lead you lol thinking you have a bad injector. some gm trucks also had a program update that would flag o2 sensors sooner cause they wouldn't flag fast enough and cause running problems ie make the fuel trim lean or rich out and flag codes and cause it to misfire because it was making drastic changes to the fuel trim and didn't actually need it and would also flag a rich or lean code for that reason
all in all like I said check the basic's and if they meet up to specs then your prob in to programming or sensors may even want to drop your jeep off and ask the dealer if any pcm or ecm "engine computer" updates are available. even state to state or province or country has different programing to meet that state, province or country emotions standards.
hope this helps some. if you have a question let me know. I might have used words that you don't get but I can explain them to ya if needed. all in all its not that complicated when broken down.
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p.s hopping to find some kind of chip burner or programmer for my 95 so i can do my own engine mapping
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p.s hopping to find some kind of chip burner or programmer for my 95 so i can do my own engine mapping
good luck with that and if you find one let me know 'cause i desperately want one too :)
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good luck with that and if you find one let me know 'cause i desperately want one too :)
I have been told by a friend that you can burn chips for it but you have to take the ecm apart and do some solder work.
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find out more details from your friend please :nod:
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So I finally got around to working on the Jeep. I put my TB spacer back on, put the stock injectors back on (and I was wrong I had the higher poundage and shouldn't have swapped them in the first place, got bad info from another forum), put new spark plugs in (they were symptomatic of running rich), when I was putting the plugs in i found that my distributor cap was toast (most likely causing the running rich problem) so I replaced it and the rotor, went ahead and put new wires on too while I was at it. Since nothing is ever easy on the Jeep my AC compressor mount had 2 stripped threads and one that was marginal (have to remove it to get to the front plug). The front two were so bad that I just pulled them out! Long story short I HOPE I have it figured out!
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I know this is old and most likely worn out but its back. The code is back. Took it to the mechanic that I take stuff when I can't fix it. He put his "fancy" code reader on it and said "SH!T, Chris this could be anything". I almost got dizzy listening to all the sensors that could be responisble for the code! The good part is that most can be checked via the scaner. Going back Monday and he is going to start checking sensors. ALL I WANT IS THAT DAMN YELLOW LIGHT TO GO AWAY!!!
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you can take the yellow light out of the dash.. or wait for it to burn out :rtfm:...jk.. hope the mechanic can work his magic and get the codes to go away.. :thumb: