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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: jfrabat on July 10, 2009, 05:24:05 PM
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OK, so I got a bunch of stuffsitting in my garage that, since I cannot import apart from the Jeep, I figured I would install before shipping out. But my question is, do I have the skills to do this? In other words, would you object to a novice doing any of this?
Things that I would have to do:
For installing the new clutch and TCG inertia ring, I would have to drop the tranny, which I already know is a handful as far as time consumption, but how difficult is it really to install the new clutch, how difficult would it be to install the inertia ring, will need any specialized tools, and more or less how long would you expect a person who has never done this to take?
In the engine, I have a MOPAR performance cam shaft, new alve springs and retainers, as well as a new timing chain and tensioner which will require that I take down the oil pan, remove the pulley (I already have a puller), take out the valve springs (I already have a compressor), remove the tappets (already got a puller; it's not the magnetic type, so I dont know if this will be a problem!), and remove the cam shaft and the replace everything.
You honest reply is much appreciated, as I dont want to get in over my head on this, but I would like to save some money if at all possible! Also, is there anything else you would recommend I do while I amdoing this (something worth doing since I am already opening/dropping parts)?
Felipe
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for the clutch you need a centering tool (i assume you know this already but just in case, don't use some home-made improv as you could fail to center it dead on and it's a pita to slide the transmission in there). read this message i wrote for one of the guys here who was asking for a clutch replacement writeup - I put down what i remembered, might have made a few errors but gives a pretty good idea as far as the steps. 1 thing to add is to replace the pilot bearing as well (it's in the flywheel and you can easily hammer it out once it's off) and since you want to put in the inertia ring do the seal behind the flywheel as well (don't even think of not doing it, if it was never replaced it will leak before your new clutch needs to be replaced again). as far as skill level required, if you're handy (which seems to be the case considering your other posts) you won't have a problem. It helps if you have someone giving you a hand. make sure you use loctite for the flywheel bolts and you can put some on the pressure plate ones as well if you don't replace them (not required from what i know but better to be safe).
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,7092.msg52337.html#msg52337
for the cam and valves, I didn't take my AMC apart yet, i did quite a bit of other engines back in the day but most of them european made with overhead cam(s) so i'm not of much help on this one.
since you're doing all of this (and obviously taking out the cylinder head) i would throw in new piston rings as well the least, you just have to drop the oil pan and 8 bolts later you can push the pistons out - just a thought, not sure how many miles your jeep has but it can't hurt.
now for my benefit - how much did the cam cost you and what kind of valves and springs did you get and for how much? Also what is it rated at as far as HP and torque?
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OK, so it looks like I'll be getting some help on this one, from what you say (again, just to play it safe; I think I'll try to get the price lowered by offering to do the job myself and asking for the guy's supervision and intervention only when I am screwing up). As for the cam, it's a .450 lift 256 duration Mopar High Performance camshaft with tappets. This is the most extreme cam for the 2.5L that Mopar made for street use (not sure about the HP and torque ratings, though). They are a bit hard to find now-a-days, so when I saw it, I jumped all over it (it was $175 + shipping). The springs and retainers I got from Summitt.
So, in summary, I need to still get the seal behind the flywheel and the pilot bearing befre doing the clutch/inertia ring, and I need to get some piston rings for whe I do the cam...
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OK, so it looks like I'll be getting some help on this one, from what you say (again, just to play it safe; I think I'll try to get the price lowered by offering to do the job myself and asking for the guy's supervision and intervention only when I am screwing up). As for the cam, it's a .450 lift 256 duration Mopar High Performance camshaft with tappets. This is the most extreme cam for the 2.5L that Mopar made for street use (not sure about the HP and torque ratings, though). They are a bit hard to find now-a-days, so when I saw it, I jumped all over it (it was $175 + shipping). The springs and retainers I got from Summitt.
So, in summary, I need to still get the seal behind the flywheel and the pilot bearing befre doing the clutch/inertia ring, and I need to get some piston rings for whe I do the cam...
for when you do the cam replace the seal behind the pulley as well.
good price for the cam, where did you find it?
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Most clutch kits come with everything you need to install them and the parts are cheap about $5 or so (pilot bearing and alignment tool)if not included.
I installed a new clutch on my 97TJ about 4 months ago. The lowest price for parts and labor at a shop was about $800. So I did it with the help of my buddy and it was a pain in the A$$. Just getting to the bolts on the transmission was a pain.
Lining up the fly wheel and trans back together is a pain. Next time I'll spend the $800.
It took us about 3hrs to do it.
So make sure the person who helps you knows how to work on cars!
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ive had to get to my clutch twice and both times lining up the trany and motor was a pia... but to be fair my trany mount was totally trashed so the trans was floping around the whole time. and as mentioned above most clutch kits will come with the alignment tool. good luck...
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for when you do the cam replace the seal behind the pulley as well.
good price for the cam, where did you find it?
I found the cam in the for sale section of this site...
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To do a cam or replace the valve springs that come with the cam you do not meed to remove the cyl head, you need shop air though to hold the valves in place and an air chuck with a sparkplug end like from a compression gauge.
Once you have the cylinder aired up preferably at tdc you pu a socket on the valve spring retaoner and give it a good whack with a hammer and the valve keepers come right out. To install the new valve springs KD tools make a nifty little valve spring compressor. Compress the sping with the retainer on top slide it over the valve stem put the keepers in place and loosen the compressor, Repeat for the other 7 valves.
Trans and clutch should be fairly easy you can try to just slide the whole thing bacl or remove the transfercase and then the trans makes it easier to handle
For the bellhousing bolts try to tip the engine back as far as it will go without sticking the fan through the radiator
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To do a cam or replace the valve springs that come with the cam you do not meed to remove the cyl head, you need shop air though to hold the valves in place and an air chuck with a sparkplug end like from a compression gauge.
Once you have the cylinder aired up preferably at tdc you pu a socket on the valve spring retaoner and give it a good whack with a hammer and the valve keepers come right out. To install the new valve springs KD tools make a nifty little valve spring compressor. Compress the sping with the retainer on top slide it over the valve stem put the keepers in place and loosen the compressor, Repeat for the other 7 valves.
Trans and clutch should be fairly easy you can try to just slide the whole thing bacl or remove the transfercase and then the trans makes it easier to handle
For the bellhousing bolts try to tip the engine back as far as it will go without sticking the fan through the radiator
i thought he's got new valves too, but i might have misundrestood, but if you put a performance cam you should do the valve seats imho. I don't think is anyway to hit the radiator with the fan on a 4 cyl though, and on mine at least not even the shroud, could be on other years.
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Be sure to use new lifters, or your cam may not last long. Be generous with the break in lube; and "run in" the new cam according to manufacturers directions. Make sure the engine is prelubed by spinning the distributor with an electric drill. Actually, it can be done with a long flat head screwdriver if your oil pump is up to spec.
It may be easier to pull the engine to replace the clutch since you have a 4 banger. Once the fan,shroud, and radiator are removed, there is plenty of room to maneuver. At least I think so, having had my engine out three times... Good Luck!
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If you can get ahold of one (I had already disassembled my old AX5) an old input shaft off the AX5 works great as an alignment tool :pirate: