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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: lqdtrance on July 15, 2009, 02:34:17 PM
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My 94 YJ 2.5 "Hickups" while driving. It cuts out (the tac drops out) for a brief second. It used to do this only on occasion. But today I drove it on the freeway a few towns over and on the way back it started doing it 10 fold. Now it barely will sit and idle and when I drive it is quite embarrassing because it looks to the outside eye like I do not know how to drive standard ::)
Has anyone experienced this before? I have already replaced my map sensor because of some codes. I do have a couple of codes still there that to me do not make sense. I have a code 33 which is for the a/c clutch relay. I do not have an a/c system so I am unsure why I have this code. I also have a code 12 which comes up as the "battery power to the pcm was disconnected". I am thinking this might be the problem but wanted to run it by you guys before I waste time and effort.
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You are correct about 33. That's normal and will always be there if you don't have AC. 12 is what I'd look into. This could mean anything from the battery being disconnected to an open circuit someplace else.
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What about O2 sensors? My Jeep bucks like that when they go bad. Usually at low speeds though. When my Jeep started acting like that at speed it was a crank position sensor.
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My battery has not been disconnected in quite some time. For the life of me I cannot find any info on the location of the pcm. Would you happen to know the location? I would like to see what is going on with the voltage at its location. Maybe it just needs to replaced?
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the PCM is located on the firewall inside the engine compartment between the fender and the master clutch cylinder - it is a black plastic box. Check if the screw in the center of the connector is tighten properly and the connector is seated properly
but first i would check these
Fuse 1 (30A) and circuit A14 which is 16 gauge wire and is red/white color (this is going to pin 3 on the PCM connector and is the one powering the PCM). it also feeds power to the Automatic Shut Down Relay (check this one as well) - this relay powers the O2 sensor, injectors and the ignition coil and the wire color on this is Dark Green with an orange stripe.
you can find detailed info on these in the service manuals more specifically this file 95YJ_8W.pdf
EDIT: like jcsanders79 said, could be a sensor also - he had a problem with a crank sensor, i had sort of hiccups on mine when the tps went bad, but mine did throw the appropriate code. if you got this code "battery power to the pcm was disconnected" i would check circuit A14 starting from the fuse and battery to make sure there are no interruptions - the error codes are quite accurate and if you have this one my money is on something related to that (sounds like it too based on what you describe).
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sharpxmen, thanks for the detailed info! I'm heading out the door now to check these. Thanks again!
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When my wifes xj did this it was a crank position sensor. It was doing crazy stuff :puzzled: and had me :brick:
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I found it but it is a pain to get to. I also have no clue when it comes to vehicle electronics. I checked fuse 1 and it is ok. I cannot find circuit A14 in my Haynes repair manual :puzzled:.
To make sure I am looking at the right thing. There is a connector that has a screw in the center where a ton of wires go into in that exact same area you mentioned (between fender and master cylinder, mounted on firewall). But there is also a box directly below that that also has some wires going into it. Which am I supposed to be looking at? I assume it is the one below? thanks again.
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a similar thing happened to me on my 95 yj. I replaced the tps sensor and all is well and a cheap and easy fix!
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I found it but it is a pain to get to. I also have no clue when it comes to vehicle electronics. I checked fuse 1 and it is ok. I cannot find circuit A14 in my Haynes repair manual :puzzled:.
To make sure I am looking at the right thing. There is a connector that has a screw in the center where a ton of wires go into in that exact same area you mentioned (between fender and master cylinder, mounted on firewall). But there is also a box directly below that that also has some wires going into it. Which am I supposed to be looking at? I assume it is the one below? thanks again.
I recommend you do all this with the ground of the battery disconnected
you are supposed to check Fuse 1 on the fusebox (actually the distribution box) by the battery - this fuse will not be blown or you engine won't start - there is also another fusebox with smaller fuses, that is not the one - fuse 1 is 30 amp i believe and the one beside it is 50. Check if there are any signs of interruptions on the fuse terminals and if it fits snug in there. there is a power feed between the battery and this box, check that as well. You can check the continuity of the circuit between the + of the battery to pin 3 on the PCM connector (with the connector taken out and using a multimeter) and try to move the fuse and wires and see if you get interruptions. the connector is the one with a screw in the center - to get to it remove the washer fluid tank (it is a philips screw located on the closest side to the firewall towards the center of the engine bay). once you did that i think it is an 8mm socket for that screw. You can also remove the distribution box and check the connections from under. The Haynes manual is useless (the one for the Jeep at least). Download the service manuals from this site (type in service manual in search) and then look at the pdf file i mentioned. I can look and give you the specific pages if you want but i'm not sure if i can do that today.
You can also try and replace sensors, but usually a bad sensor will give you the appropriate code.
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Yeah, I checked the cable going from the battery to the dist. box. I'll take a closer look at the pcm connector tomorrow. What is it directly below the pcm connector? is that the computer?
Thanks for the tip on the manuals. You don't need to go as far as specific pages, I should hopefully be able to locate them on my own. I'll keep it in mind though just in case. Your a wealth of knowledge man. Thanks again!
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i hope you'll find the problem. the pcm is the computer - i'm not sure what's under, i'll have a look and let you know in the next couple of days. I'm also thinking that this might occur while you're driving due to vibrations, so you could eventually start the motor and move the wires a bit, tap on the distribution box and try to see if you can replicate the issue - if you can you could be close to find the problem.
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i have a similar problem. Sometimes when I start up my Jeep it stalls out on me. Just sitting there. It has always taken a little while to start but now sometimes it takes 2/3 tries for it to start. But it only does that on the initial start for the day then its fine the rest. It also bucks a little when in 1st gear or reverse and the RPMs drop significantly regardless of how much gas I give it and it has little power until I can get it high enough to shift into second. but that takes some time. Like it feels as if I shifted into a higher gear when the RPMs weren't high enough.
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the pcm connector is the long narrow connector (60 way connector in the image below)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/pcm.jpg)
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the pcm connector is the long narrow connector (60 way connector in the image below)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/pcm.jpg)
Ok. that is the box on the bottom that I was talking about. The image above the pcm is what I was originally looking at, which also has a center screw. The one above appears to go to the interior fuse box. Thanks for the clarification. I figured I was looking at the wrong one once I saw that it went to the interior fuse box.
On another note. I cannot get it to replicate at the moment. I test drove it and nothing happened. It seems that the longer I drive it the more it starts to act up. I did notice the negative connection on my battery was loose enough for me to move. I tightened that down. Maybe that was the problem, I doubt it though.
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since it is not doing this for the moment, you should disconnect the battery to clear the code (leave it off for 5 min or more) and if it starts doing it again check the code and see if it's the same.
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Update......
I checked all grounds on the body and engine. Found one loose on the passenger side on the engine. I cleaned it off and tightened it down. This still did not solve the issue. I ended up replacing the TPS. That still didn't fix it (but it fixed my idle problem). I checked the pcm connector, wiggled the wires and it didn't effect it. When i wiggled a group of wires that connected to the tps and others close by it would die. I ended up taking all the connections off of each sensor and checking each one then I put them back. I have since test drove it twice and also hit some pretty hard bumps and nothing happened. Hopefully it was just a bad connection. We'll see if it acts up again in the future.
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Started acting up again on my way home after I got my new front and rear axle put in. Checked all of the connections on the sensors under the hood, wiggled wires on the pcm, checked all grounds again. Cant get it to act up by wiggling wires. Any more ideas? I already replaced the TPS.
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did you get any code again?
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Same codes as before, 12 and 33
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hmm, you are definitely having an electrical interruption (losing voltage) - especially that you said you found a group of wires that when wiggled would die - not sure what else to suggest other than what i already did, seems that you have a problem with the under-hood wiring harness, you could try and find one from a wrecker's (including the distribution box), but stranger things have happened so i can't really say will solve your problem 100%.
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The funny thing is that when I wiggle the wires nothing happens. I think I need to do just that and get a new harness. Are they expensive?
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i got one for $20 as i needed some connectors and i butchered it, but i heard of something like $100 for a good harness. I guess it depends how many are in the yard. most of the vehicles i have seen are missing some connectors or some are ripped off when they pull the engine, so probably best if you find one that still has everything on.
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We'll see how it goes. I need to replace some other sensors before I do that anyways. I have to replace my temp sensor. I remember now that I brought my jeep to a shop to get the Fuel pump and sending unit replaced and ever since then this has happened. Not only that but I ran out of gas today and my gauge showed a half a tank. I need to call the shop up and have them fix it. Only problem is that the work was done over a month ago.
On the bright side, My Jeep now has power steering!! I just installed a power steering unit today. What a PITA that was.
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On the bright side, My Jeep now has power steering!! I just installed a power steering unit today. What a PITA that was.
maybe that i'm just used to it but i have no idea how you managed to drive w/o power steering, must be that you're working out lots :biggrin:
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It was a def. work out especially off road.
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any update on the problem??
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Not yet. I am getting the codes read tomorrow at the dealership. I am getting mixed stories and dont want to waste money replacing parts that dont need to be replaced. However, this problem started after having the fuel pump and sending unit replaced. It could be a short back there. I was told though that when replacing those you need to have them calibrated to run right with your Jeep. Any truth to that?
Anyways, I hope the codes will tell me something. If not then I plan on bringing it back to the shop where the pump was replaced anyways because the gauge doesn't work properly. I ran out of gas when my gauge read a half a tank.
All in all if it is not that then I'll focus on the speed sensor and the wires in that area. This is really pissing me off. I didn't get to run my jeep in the mud bog this year at the 4 wheel jamboree. Just wasn't running good and I still had to be able to drive it home.
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Here's the update. Oil in the distributor :brick: All better now. Cleaned it out and she hasn't acted up not one bit.
Now I just need to rebuild my tranny!!
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Here's the update. Oil in the distributor :brick: All better now. Cleaned it out and she hasn't acted up not one bit.
Now I just need to rebuild my tranny!!
do you think it could've been the connector? can't imagine how oiling it would make it better (it's either rotating or not) unless you have some excessive play in the shaft or something. What do you mean by cleaned it out - this is interesting so give us some more details please. good to hear that is running fine now.
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There was oil in the distributor causing interruptions. Cleaned it out and it is now running fine. I need to get back in there and clean it out with that electrical cleaner though. I think that one of the seals was leaking. Not sure how else oil would get in there. Other than that, when it happens again (sure it will since I have not replaced anything) I will replace the seal or if I cant get the seal then I'll just replace the distributor.
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i see, good to know. it's weird that you got those codes though, keep us posted.
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There was oil in the distributor causing interruptions. Cleaned it out and it is now running fine. I need to get back in there and clean it out with that electrical cleaner though. I think that one of the seals was leaking. Not sure how else oil would get in there. Other than that, when it happens again (sure it will since I have not replaced anything) I will replace the seal or if I cant get the seal then I'll just replace the distributor.
This happened to me and it ended up frying my coil (the oil also got there). Kind of sucks to be left in the middle of the road because of asmall thing like this!
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Yeah, I'm glad it was a small thing instead of a bad pcm or something. I'm just glad to know what was causing it. It was driving me insane looking for it.
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Well, I got a new distributor put in but I am still having the same problems. Now every once in a while not only does the tach drop out for a brief second but it does it and stays that way for a while until I either stop and restart the engine or shift to a lower gear and pop the clutch. I am getting really sick of this :brick:
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so it was not the oil in the distributor then? the tach dropping to zero means either you lose power (to the pcm, sensors or the asd) or that your crank or cam won't output a signal (which i assume is not cam since you just replaced the whole distrib). if i were you i would start monitoring the voltage to all of these and have a multimeter by the dash so you can see if you still have power (voltage) when the tach drops (a needle one would be better since it doesn't take a second or so to update like the digital ones) - you can start with the PCM power (i think it's pin 3) and then move to the asd and so on. Can't think of any other way unless it's something really straight forward like the crank sensor for example.
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Is there a pin chart? how do I know which one is pin 3? Sorry if its a dumb question.
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download the 94/95 fsm from here, the 8W section has all the pinouts and wire colors (page 154) - i hope the pinout is the same with yours but at least the wire colors should be the same. in the meantime you can take the back cover off the connector and the numbers are marked by the wires (only the beginning and end of the row, but it's easy to figure out). the wire color for pin 3 is Red with a white stripe and it's the thicker kind, it's 16ga all the rest are smaller 18ga (and a few that are 20) except for the ground which is also 16 (black and black/white)
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I downloaded the 94/95psm last night. Thanks for the tips and page locations, again.
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Update......
I located the problem. The connection on my map sensor was bad. the clasp that holds it in place was loose so every time that wiggled my jeep would cut out. I fixed the problem and now she has been running great.
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Update......
I located the problem. The connection on my map sensor was bad. the clasp that holds it in place was loose so every time that wiggled my jeep would cut out. I fixed the problem and now she has been running great.
:thumb: :thumb: awesome. weird that it didn't give you a code about MAP, i would think that since there is no info should generate an error. Good to know that can cause that. glad you got it in the end, must've been frustrating.
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Hmm. Well just on a side note, if you disconnect the MAP sensor and then start eh engine it forces the ECm into limp mode and you can gimp on down the road getting about 10MPG (I've been playing the same game, going to check the distributor in the morning.!)
The only sensor this does not work with so far is the Crank Position sensor. I havn't tried the cam sensor in the distributor.
Dave
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Hmm. Well just on a side note, if you disconnect the MAP sensor and then start eh engine it forces the ECm into limp mode and you can gimp on down the road getting about 10MPG (I've been playing the same game, going to check the distributor in the morning.!)
The only sensor this does not work with so far is the Crank Position sensor. I havn't tried the cam sensor in the distributor.
Dave
won't start w/o the cam (although i did not try it personally) - it is supposed to time the fuel injectors sequence as well as providing some check for the ECU (looks for a specific sequence between the cam and crank) and if it's off would cut the spark.
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Thanks for all the suggestions and info guys!! And yes, it was very frustrating.
Now my jeep is in the shop and I was just told that my computer is shot!!
:brick: :brick: :brick: :brick: :brick:
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I have posted some questions on a different thread on hesitation when cold, but this didnt seem to fit there, so maybe I can get somewhere here. I have a 92 Yj 5 speed w/153k 32's with Flowmaster, 4.0l tb and spacer and K&N cold air, 4" lift (i think). I need to do the check on what gearing it has but it seems like it may have been re-geared at one point as I have no problems getting to 75-80 on the freeway if I need to. ANd 5th is not a problem to stay in either. Anyway, after upgrading the TB I noticed a hickup at around 25-2800 RPM. The tach would drop about 10k and buck for a second. I was able to duplicate it by staying at 2500 RPM (as it seemed to drop after some time). Gradually it went away and now just remains a rough spot between 2200 RPM and what seems to be 2800 RPM. Its very slight most of the time but occasionally i get a bucking but cannot reproduce it anymore. I got some advice to check to AIS and the rest of the sensors, but how do I check them? I checked the TPS sensor, I knew how to do that. But the rest, I dont know. Is there a way to test them at the diagnostic plug as it looks like you were mentioning earlier to another fellow 4Banger? I dont want to start buying a bunch of sensors if I dont have to. Any of this sound familiar to anyone?
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I had the same problem after putting my spacer in, it was the TPS, I think I wacked with my wrench while taking bolts out?
I took it apart after installing the new one and they are pretty cheesy... It has really tiny fingers and the resistance wire coil is very light.
Dave
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I have been having the hick-ups again and now I pulled a code 12. This is the crank position sensor right? Do you think this will cause the hickuping and tach drop and the overall rough spot between 2200 and 2800 RPM? Also does it real bad when cold.
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I have been having the hick-ups again and now I pulled a code 12. This is the crank position sensor right? Do you think this will cause the hickuping and tach drop and the overall rough spot between 2200 and 2800 RPM? Also does it real bad when cold.
that could be it, but can also be a bad connection to the sensor - it does make sense somewhat, but then again why is it only at that rpm range - could be that it happens at other rpms but you don't notice it or that the vibration at that rpm somehow makes some connection to get loose (but it's more of a long shot though, should happen at other rpm range and by any reasonable logic i can't think why would only be in that particular spot). The PCM usually reports the sensor problems well, but sometimes it could be just an effect of a different cause (like bad connection for example) - if you can get a second hand one to test that would be best, or take it to a shop and they can warranty it (take it back if it is not the problem), but in that case you'll have to pay for the work in which case could cost more.
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Well, I just checked all the sensor wire harnesses and made sure they were all connected right. I pulled off the crank position sensor (probably the easiest thing to do next to putting water in the radiator) and it was real nasty looking. It looks and feels like a magnet, so I cleaned it off and put it back together and went for a test drive. So far, no symptoms but I will get the real test on the way home from work. Also, it seems like my voltage (by looking at the dash gauge) has risen from about 13.5 to 14 and holding steady). I read that to get 12 volts to the coil, it has to first go through a few things and one of those things is the CPS. I wonder if by me cleaning off the CPS it was able to get a better connection and now puts full 13.8 volts where it should go. I read somewhere else that a TJ owner had the stalling problem and mine as well and he did the cleaning and solved most of his problem as well. Noted also that its better (as is mine) but still hasnt 100% fixed the situation. Like him, I can still feel a misfire type symptom around 2200 RPM. Will post back in a few hours.
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Just a quick comment; dont trust the dash voltage too much... Mine seems to drop significantly when I turn on my AC (all the way down to about 12.5V or so), so I got really worried that my alternator was not working properly (or perhaps the voltage regulator). But when I tested the current with adigital voltmeter, there is acutally less than 0.1V drop in current between the AC fan off and the AC fan at max (even though the dash readings drop about 2V). My guess is that the AC is actually taking current going to the meter, and this is why it shows some odd voltage, but I'm not sure. All I know is that my battery IS receiving all the voltage it needs...
Felipe
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Well, I just checked all the sensor wire harnesses and made sure they were all connected right. I pulled off the crank position sensor (probably the easiest thing to do next to putting water in the radiator) and it was real nasty looking. It looks and feels like a magnet, so I cleaned it off and put it back together and went for a test drive. So far, no symptoms but I will get the real test on the way home from work. Also, it seems like my voltage (by looking at the dash gauge) has risen from about 13.5 to 14 and holding steady). I read that to get 12 volts to the coil, it has to first go through a few things and one of those things is the CPS. I wonder if by me cleaning off the CPS it was able to get a better connection and now puts full 13.8 volts where it should go. I read somewhere else that a TJ owner had the stalling problem and mine as well and he did the cleaning and solved most of his problem as well. Noted also that its better (as is mine) but still hasnt 100% fixed the situation. Like him, I can still feel a misfire type symptom around 2200 RPM. Will post back in a few hours.
just a note that your voltage (it's the PCM that regulates the voltage) will not be affected by the CPS unless of course is shot and not sending any info but then the engine won't start. The only thing i can think of that you could have improved is if there were a lot of metal filings on the cps, but cleaning it on the outside otherwise should have no effect.
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I shouldnt have said anything about the voltage. I was wrong. Forget about that part. I did notice that after cleaning all the crud off the CPS the irratic RPM drop almost went away. Now it seems like it only does it at 2800 RPM. But its still irratic. It may do it, it may not, but it still seems like it happens more when I am just slightly letting off the gas. I still have a rough area around 2200-2400 RPM but not too bad. I also still have a code 12. What can this code mean? You think it has something to do with the problem I am having?
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I shouldnt have said anything about the voltage. I was wrong. Forget about that part. I did notice that after cleaning all the crud off the CPS the irratic RPM drop almost went away. Now it seems like it only does it at 2800 RPM. But its still irratic. It may do it, it may not, but it still seems like it happens more when I am just slightly letting off the gas. I still have a rough area around 2200-2400 RPM but not too bad. I also still have a code 12. What can this code mean? You think it has something to do with the problem I am having?
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,3419.0.html This is a list of the codes. 12 means you have had the battery disconnected in the last 50 starts.
Maybe a new CPS will clear it up all the way? :puzzled:
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Replaced the CPS. Will test it out in the morning. I also found that the ground strap that goes from the valve cover to the fire wall was broken. Fixed that. And another ground spot where some wires connect was at the bracket for the dipstick tube was also loose. Tightened that as well. Havent tested her yet, but I have my fingers crossed.
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Not so lucky. Still having the issues. I am really inclined to find out the answer to another post here titled "Bad Hesitation When Cold". Because I have that same problem, and it seems like as it warms up, it just dosnt do the hesitation as bad. It seems like it is in the same areas that I have been having a problem with. AGGRAVATING!!
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need help have 06 wrangler with hiccups change o2 sensors but still having problems where is the crank sensor at an will that hellp check all ground cables they are tight
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Yes, that can help, but guessing from the posts and advice for me for the same problem, it could be a number of sensors that can go wrong. The crank sensor is on the back of the bell housing. Real easy to get to and change out. See the pic...
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Replaced O2 sensor. Hickuping almost completely gone and hopefully my gas mileage as well. It was getting real bad. I still feel a little stumbling at that same RPM range 2200-2800, but nothing like it was.
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I put a used O2 I had from a LS1 removed for a project in mine and left the battery off for about 10 minutes, my miss and stuble is gone!!!
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Back again. Now I am still having the same spitting sputtering and drops in RPM at about 500 RPMs, Its fine when cold but after about 15 minutes of being fully warmed up it starts spitting and sputtering and backfiring in the intake. It doesn't have to be at a specific RPM anymore, but I can usually punch it and it isnt as frequent, but still can happen. I put my OBD1 code reader on and it had been the code that read not getting a rich or lean reading from O2 sensor. So I replaced it. I disconnected the positive cable, took off the old (only a month old) O2 sensor and plugged the new one in. Replaced the battery cable and it ran fine for a few days, now its back and getting worse every day. What in the hell!?!? Its so frustrating. I was thinking about the temp sensor right there in front of the engine. I cant remember what its called. I was thinking this because like I said, it happens only after warming up completely. Any ideas?
Also, for those that have not followed my problem a few months back, I have already replaced the MAP sensor, the Crank Position Sensor, The Cam Position Sensor, the Throttle Position Sensor and had a complete tune up already done. The spitting and sputtering feels like when you get water in the distributor cap or running out of gas. (If that helps anyone)
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I put a used O2 I had from a LS1 removed for a project in mine and left the battery off for about 10 minutes, my miss and stuble is gone!!!
So, do you think that the computer may have not cleared the code and is still stuck in the "non-working O2 sensor mode" or something?
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Back again. Now I am still having the same spitting sputtering and drops in RPM at about 500 RPMs, Its fine when cold but after about 15 minutes of being fully warmed up it starts spitting and sputtering and backfiring in the intake. It doesn't have to be at a specific RPM anymore, but I can usually punch it and it isnt as frequent, but still can happen. I put my OBD1 code reader on and it had been the code that read not getting a rich or lean reading from O2 sensor. So I replaced it. I disconnected the positive cable, took off the old (only a month old) O2 sensor and plugged the new one in. Replaced the battery cable and it ran fine for a few days, now its back and getting worse every day. What in the hell!?!? Its so frustrating. I was thinking about the temp sensor right there in front of the engine. I cant remember what its called. I was thinking this because like I said, it happens only after warming up completely. Any ideas?
Also, for those that have not followed my problem a few months back, I have already replaced the MAP sensor, the Crank Position Sensor, The Cam Position Sensor, the Throttle Position Sensor and had a complete tune up already done. The spitting and sputtering feels like when you get water in the distributor cap or running out of gas. (If that helps anyone)
did you ever end up checking your fuel pressure?
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No, if it was a fuel pressure problem it would be so erratic like it is and it would do it even when it is cold.
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No, if it was a fuel pressure problem it would be so erratic like it is and it would do it even when it is cold.
makes sense what you say and for sure is not very likely, i'm just thinking since you replaced most of the sensors might be worth a shot (can't hurt to check i mean).
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Well, I am going to do some research on how to test the temp control sensor (whatever its called) and then go from there. Thats the only one left. Thats the one that makes the most sense right now.
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Well, I am going to do some research on how to test the temp control sensor (whatever its called) and then go from there. Thats the only one left. Thats the one that makes the most sense right now.
should be around $15 (i think, unless i'm remembering the gauge one).
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Yeah, its not expensive, but dont you think that if the CTS was bad that I would have an over heating problem? I have the manual fan, so there is no electronics involved there, but if someone could enighten me on this, I would appreciate it. Also, the longer I drive it, the worse it gets. I let it warm up for about 15 minutes before I left for work today and it didnt make a difference. It started spitting and sputtering at the exact same place as it has been for some time now (about a mile from work). And if I am coasting down hill with no pressure on the gas peddal, i can watch the tach drop 500-700RPMS just erratically. I dont feel it going downhill, but I can see it. I am not getting any codes (accept 12, 33, 55) from the CEL, but if I hook up the OBD1 scanner, I get the no rich or lean reading from O2 sensor.
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Yeah, its not expensive, but dont you think that if the CTS was bad that I would have an over heating problem? I have the manual fan, so there is no electronics involved there, but if someone could enighten me on this, I would appreciate it. Also, the longer I drive it, the worse it gets. I let it warm up for about 15 minutes before I left for work today and it didnt make a difference. It started spitting and sputtering at the exact same place as it has been for some time now (about a mile from work). And if I am coasting down hill with no pressure on the gas peddal, i can watch the tach drop 500-700RPMS just erratically. I dont feel it going downhill, but I can see it. I am not getting any codes (accept 12, 33, 55) from the CEL, but if I hook up the OBD1 scanner, I get the no rich or lean reading from O2 sensor.
you won't have an overheating problem if the PCM coolant temp sensor is faulty - it is used by the PCM to adjust the IAC position, the air/fuel ratio and ignition advance.
i wonder if it's a sensor ground issue or some bad connection to one of the sensors? or maybe even something related to the ignition coil (either the connector or maybe starting to act when is getting hotter) - anyway, things that i can think of - I can imagine how you feel, gotta be frustrating. that tach drop could point to some ignition or sensor problem that is related to the engine rotation (cps, cam - i know you changed them but can be a connection too) or maybe a global issue with the sensor ground going to the PCM.
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Ok, scratch the O2 code from the code scanner, its gone. It must have went away after I replaced it again. But I only had the last one on for a week or 2 and I replaced it. What was a bit odd about it is that it looked like it got real hot. Anyway, on the drive home today I only got a couple of sputters by the time i got home. It seems like I get more problems on the way TO work. But its uphill on the way to work as well. I dont get it. I do not want to have to take it to the dealer and have them rape me on troublshooting. I checked all the connections and they are all good. The next thing I guess I can do is check the CTS and apparently the coil. Any other ideas anyone?
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Something else thats weird, the carbon buildup on the terminals in the cap are on the very edge. Looks to me like the timing is off a hair, but what do I know. Why would I be getting a build up on the back edge rather than right in the middle?
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Something else thats weird, the carbon buildup on the terminals in the cap are on the very edge. Looks to me like the timing is off a hair, but what do I know. Why would I be getting a build up on the back edge rather than right in the middle?
the marking on the prongs should appear on the whole width, in your case it could mean that the dist is rotated somehow, but it is keyed with the locking clamp so it's unlikely, you might want to check that though - look in the FSM, there's a whole distributor procedure there from what i remember.
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Just found a crack on the face of the exhaust manifold. There was also a bolt missing on it on the back on the fireall side. Put a new one on and will be fixing the crack today. I think the exhaust leak can cause an O2 failure. Hopefully this will solve a problem.
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Fixed crack and put a new CTS and to no avail, it still "hickups". And at the same exact place every morning. I am begining to think that there may be water in the tank or something, because it REALLY starts when I take this sharp 120* right hand turn that also is an incline of about 15-20*. So the gas gets thrown around and whatever is in there gets sucked up and starts spitting and sputtering from that point on. Misfiring and everything. No wonder it doesnt really do this on the way home. Its down hill all the way home. I guess I will try some "Heat" in the tank and see how that works. AAGGHH!!
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Fixed crack and put a new CTS and to no avail, it still "hickups". And at the same exact place every morning. I am begining to think that there may be water in the tank or something, because it REALLY starts when I take this sharp 120* right hand turn that also is an incline of about 15-20*. So the gas gets thrown around and whatever is in there gets sucked up and starts spitting and sputtering from that point on. Misfiring and everything. No wonder it doesnt really do this on the way home. Its down hill all the way home. I guess I will try some "Heat" in the tank and see how that works. AAGGHH!!
how much water to be in there? - you'd run out at some point. if it's dirt/deposits might want to give that pressure check a shot.
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Ok, picked up a fuel pressure test kit from Harbor Freight last night and I will give her a test today. What is still baffling me is that that damn thing stalls out at the same spot every day. It runs just fine until I get to that sharp turn. Backfires every time and looks like I cant drive a stick. Annoying, very annoying. But still, why would this happen only after being driven for about 20 minutes?
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Ok, picked up a fuel pressure test kit from Harbor Freight last night and I will give her a test today. What is still baffling me is that that damn thing stalls out at the same spot every day. It runs just fine until I get to that sharp turn. Backfires every time and looks like I cant drive a stick. Annoying, very annoying. But still, why would this happen only after being driven for about 20 minutes?
maybe some paranormal activity - did you try another route? :lol:
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Ok, I really have no idea what I'm supposed to do with this pressure tester. I mean, I know how to hook it up, but what do I do with the readings? I turn the key and it goes to 30psi, then slowly drops and stays steady at 7psi, but that's probably because the damn thing is leaking gas a little bit. Can I use plumbers tape on this or will the gas just eat it up? Also, took another route today and its not the route thats the cause (obviously), its the drive time. So after it gets warmed up (15 min of driving) it starts stalling and bucking, RPM drops frantically and the more I drive the worse it gets. I can power through most of the stalling but at a light throttle pressure it really goes nuts. Wasn't sure if I was even going to make it to work this morning. Doesnt do it at idle, but at all other RPM ranges, it is nasty. Let her cool down and shes good to go again. I know that a faulty pump can show up sometimes after it warms up, so thats a clue i guess. But I think I need some help on the gauge tester and another hand to maybe pinch the fuel line to test the pump. The pressure is at 35ish, then drops as it leaks. Then while running its about 37ish and if I rev it up a bit it goes to about 45ish then drops back to 37ish. When it gets warm, what am I going to be looking for?
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Ok, I really have no idea what I'm supposed to do with this pressure tester. I mean, I know how to hook it up, but what do I do with the readings? I turn the key and it goes to 30psi, then slowly drops and stays steady at 7psi, but thats probably because the damn thing is leaking gas a little bit. Can I use plumbers tape on this or will the gas just eat it up? Also, took another route today and its not the route thats the cause (obviously), its the drive time. So after it gets warmed up (15 min of driving) it starts stalling and bucking, RPM drops frantically and the more I drive the worse it gets. I can power through most of the stalling but at a light throttle pressure it really goes nuts. Wasnt sure if I was even going to make it to work this morning. Doesnt do it at idle, but at all other RPM ranges, it is nasty. Let her cool down and shes good to go again. I know that a faulty pump can show up sometimes after it warms up, so thats a clue i guess. But I think I need some help on the guage tester and another hand to maybe pinch the fuel line to test the pump. I think I also need to tell you what the pressure is when running. But I also think I need to get 2 readings right? One at cold and one at hot (stalling temp).
the fact that it drops quickly to 7 psi could mean the FPR is faulty, the check valve in the pump leaks or that one of your injectors leaks badly (or at least 1 to be more specific). When you start the engine you should have 31 psi at idle and if you remove the vac line on the back of the FPR should jump to 39psi - that's the readings you should have both hot and cold and while driving (at wot you should always have 39psi, decelerating or in engine braking you will have less than 31 since your vacuum would be more than at idle). best if you can monitor the pressure while you drive it but if it has the problem while stopped and you are revving the engine you should still see if the pressure is an issue - best to have the vac port removed and plugged (on the line side) with a little screw or bolt or something like that so you're not thrown off by the vacuum - in that case it should always show 39 psi regardless of the throttle position or rpm.
hope this helps.
PS: you say it's leaking, the schraeder valve is -4 AN fitting so unlike with the NPT fittings you cannot use teflon tape to seal it, just look inside the fitting that's on your gauge hose and see if it has an o-ring there, if it doesn't just tighten it hard and it should not leak, if it has an o-ring or some sort of rubber gasket inside (unlikely but you never know) then by hand should be fine
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Sorry, need to clarify: The cheap ass gauge from Harbor Freight leaks, so the pressure dropped to 7 or so with the key on. While running it still leaks but is at the correct pressure. Just need to take the stupid thing back and make my own, with a hose long enough to take in the cab with me to see whats going on at the time of stall. Thanks for the info. I will try again later.
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you can use teflon tape at the gauge end of the hose
if you want to make your own use steel braided hose that is fuel resistant with pre-crimped -4AN female ends and a female 1/8 or 1/4 NPT (depending on your gauge) to -4 AN male adapter. Use teflon tape on the NPT threads, the -4 AN threads will seal themselves
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Fuel filter.... :stupid: :brick:
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Fuel filter.... :stupid: :brick:
:yikes:
now i don't feel that bad for sounding like a broken record :lol:
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:bow: Thanks sharpx, you da man.
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:bow: Thanks sharpx, you da man.
no prob, glad you finally resolved the issue :thumb: