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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Bigboyky on July 29, 2009, 08:11:00 PM
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I think this is my first post here. I've read a bunch. And am on other forums. But I kile the fact that this is 4 banger specific! Ok here's my question..... I'm getting ready to put a header on. I'm sure that I will break a stud in the process. I'm wanting to know what size studs to buy before I do break one. Anybody know this off the top of their head?
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Come on somebody has to know this.....
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I didn't break one, don't see why it has to happen? Call an auto parts store?
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It's common for the forward most and rearward most studs to be broken on the 2.5L engine. You have to get them from the dealer, there is a TSB on broken exhaust manifold studs and they may cut you a deal. If you're under 8 years and 80,000 miles they're required to fix them for free under the Federal Emissions warranty.
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I was one of the unlucky ones to have a BROKEN rear stud. Take a lot of time to soak it with penetrating oil. I used PB blaster. Took a right angle drill (only thing that coud reach) and slowly alternated drilling and soaking. Almost was able to unscrew it with a small screw driver. Ended up using an extractor from Lowes. It was so loose by that time that it just eased out.
I got my replacement stud from NAPA. They had a Chrysler manifold replacement package. I was $7 with tax. It had two studs/nuts and all the bolts. It did not have the special washers for the bolts so I reused the old ones. They have several types for different cars. The stud also has some loctite around the part that goes in the head. I just stuck a cheap made in China replacement $60 on with a feelpro gasket (NAPA) back on. I found it wierd that the Air manifold had a gasket but the exhaust didn't. I hope that then gasket doesn't just burn up. Best of luck.
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Come on somebody has to know this.....
3/8'' 16tpi - i can give you the length too if you need but tomorrow.
look for a kit of stainless, i installed mine and then i found a stainless kit for $14.
and I had a broken stud too, by the firewall, unlucky me it never came out at all - drilled with a bunch of bits, got it almost in the center, manage to chase the thread on the first half and then the remainder of it came loose and i was able to unscrew it - but it took close to couple of hours and the worst part is that you cannot see there - center punched couple of times and checked with a mirror.
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Why replace it with a stud? If you get the old one out, doesn't it make sense to replace the studs with grade 8 bolts?
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Why replace it with a stud? If you get the old one out, doesn't it make sense to replace the studs with grade 8 bolts?
I don't think there was enough thread to hold a bolt. It only went in somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 inch.
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Why replace it with a stud? If you get the old one out, doesn't it make sense to replace the studs with grade 8 bolts?
that grade 8 is going to lose it's grade after a bunch of heating cycles.
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ive replaced all mine with grade 8 bolts 2 yrs ago, and have had the intake and exhaust off with no problems. and they go in more than 1/4", and havent had issues of them backing out with out lock tight either.
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Stock bolts and studs are grade 5. I am just wondering why use a stud when a bolt is much easier to deal with.
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Stock bolts and studs are grade 5. I am just wondering why use a stud when a bolt is much easier to deal with.
imho i would use studs with brass nuts, studs are 3/8 coarse thread on the cyl head end and fine thread on the nut end - that way it is less likely to break or seize. when i put my pacesetter header on unfortunately i could only put in 3 studs, otherwise the header would not slide in, to use more i would have had to take the power steering mount off, so i used bolts for the other 4. i used brass nuts for the 3 studs. one reason to use some studs is to be able to slide the header in and rest it on them (easier to install) - in fact there are 2 studs from the factory on the most outer holes of the exhaust.