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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: smashcoast on September 29, 2009, 09:48:02 PM
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What is everyone's opinion on putting a limited slip in to a D35 with upgraded shafts?
I'm going to be regearing and was thinking about adding a limited slip at the same time. I know the D35 is considered weak but with 33's and upgraded shafts and some mild wheeling to maybe some hard wheeling can it hold up?
Was thinking about in the front too! I understand the handling issues with a LS Locker up front, but can the D30 with stock shafts hold up to that?
Hopefully I can upgrade axles by the end of next year.
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A Limited Slip Differential isn't a locker. If you need a locker then nothing short of a locker will do.
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Just pick up a ford 8.8 with a lim-slip, if you can find it. Don't lock the 35 unless you like rebuilding rears.
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I have a locrite in front and 8.8 w lsd. love it. keeps up with rubis on 35s no problem. plus u will love extra stopping power w rear disc. If u doubt the 35 lock the 30 and save for rear swap.
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I dont notice the locrite in normal street driving at all. tho winter should be a learning experience
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I wouldn't think twice of running a ls or a locker in a d35 w/ up to 33's. I have friends running that set-up w/ 4.0l and have only seen one set of shafts break in 4 years and 2 buddies running them that way, and the one beakage was trying to pull someone else out of a water hole after he brke through 8" of ice and was hood deep in water on 3 wheels from blow ball joints (boy was that a long cold night trying to get everyone off the trail). They both run stock shafts. Most people give the 35 a lot worse of a wrap then it deserves. I have friends who build Rangers to wheel and they look for d35's as a good axle they can get cheap to upgrade from the 7.5 they have.
I personally have been running a year now on a hpd30 front w/ 1 piece shaft and locker on 34ltb's and haven't had any shaft breakage, I have spun the caps on the u-joints a couple times taking out the joints, so I welded the caps last week to prevent that, I also bolted on a set of 36tsl's so we'll see how well the stock shafts handle the bigger heavier tires. :thumbsup:
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If you are going to 'lock' the rear D35 axle along with the alloy shafts, I would also look into trussing the axle to minimize the deflection on the tubes from the tires.
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What is everyone's opinion on putting a limited slip in to a D35 with upgraded shafts?
I'm going to be regearing and was thinking about adding a limited slip at the same time. I know the D35 is considered weak but with 33's and upgraded shafts and some mild wheeling to maybe some hard wheeling can it hold up?
I am running ARB's in both the D35 and D30, but I did upgrade both to alloy axles (I run 33's, by the way).
A Limited Slip Differential isn't a locker. If you need a locker then nothing short of a locker will do.
X2
Just pick up a ford 8.8 with a lim-slip, if you can find it. Don't lock the 35 unless you like rebuilding rears.
That's a good suggestion, but putting an 8.8 is not simply bolting on parts, so be aware of this...
Most people give the 35 a lot worse of a wrap then it deserves.
I agree; it is defenetly not the best axle, but it is not as bad as some people make it out to be...
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for general trail riding a tru trac LSD and 27 spline chromo shafts will work fine in the d35.
if you are going to get into rock crawling then super 35 is the way to go.
the 8.8 is nice, but you'll lose ground clearance with 33's...i drag mine constantly.
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Dana 35:
- if you upgrade the axles to 30 spline and cromoly they will be stronger than the D44 axles
- the housing will most likely need a truss if you go > 33s (from what i read they tend to bend as the housing was not meant for that much torque or heavy tires)
- there is still a matter of R&P size which is small(er), some say that is also a weak point and will break or wear faster with the bigger tires
- i went with the 30 spline cromoly and Auburn ected for the rear which is an LSD with an electric lock, heard bad and good about it but it was only $575 so i decided to bite the bullet - not installed yet so i can't offer any advice on it
- I chose the max R&P available for D35/D30 which is 4.88 (or lowest ratio if you wish), you can't go higher than that in the D35/D30 due to ring size
Dana 30:
- there is absolutely no reason to run an LSD upfront since the YJs/TJs are 4x4 and not "all wheel drive" (4wd full time), so you will only engage the front if you're wheeling or on snow/ice - for the latter you really don't want an LSD as it will make your Jeep go straight but the rear lsd will help.
- according to all reviews i've seen about the auburn upfront and the manufacturer recommendations you shouldn't use it on D30 if you have the disconnect axle on the pass side, apparently it would wreck the diff or the clutches in it. Also some reviews i read were saying that it would not disengage even with the 1 piece pass axle, but to be fair they had replaced them with a new reviewed version which fixed some of the issues (according to the same forum posts and reviews i looked at) - based on these i decided to pass on the idea of an LSD for the D30
- a lot of people (including myself) have only good things to say about the D30, it is a solid axle - failures usually occur on the u-joints but those can be upgraded
- same like the D35, the D30 can be upgraded to 30 spline cromoly axles but the hub potion will still be at the same diameter as stock, however i have not seen reports of any failing at the hub (maybe because the way they are bolted on there, not sure).
- imo for the front you should use a selectable locker and replace the 2 piece pass axle to the solid one (in case you have a 2-piece)
- i don't think the D30 needs a truss, but it will definitely not hurt at all (the tubes are shorter than the D35 ones so that probably gives more overall strength i suppose)
Upgrading to 30 spline for both front/rear requires upgrading the diff
EDIT: fixed couple of spelling mistakes above
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Upgrading to 30 spline for both front/rear requires upgrading the diff
He's right; if you change to 30 splines, you need to change the carrier. Which makes for a perfect oportunity to install a new locker...
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Personally I wouldn't spend any more money on a D35 than I had to. I.E. Keep it running. The only problems I have had with my Jeep was when I ran the D35. Broke both shafts at the same time. Upgraded to Warn floater set up. Re-geared to 4.88's. Then the R&P took a dump. With all that money spent I could have upgraded the rear end to something stronger.
If you already have the upgraded shafts then it's not as bad, if not I say use the money towards something stronger. D44 or F8.8
The D30's are pretty strong! The stock shafts with a locker can be hard on the yokes. They tend to stretch and the UJ caps tend to get spit out. But there are lots of take out shafts for sale and can be swapped out fast on the trail if it breaks.
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Dana 30:
- there is absolutely no reason to run an LSD upfront since the YJs/TJs are 4x4 and not "all wheel drive" (4wd full time), so you will only engage the front if you're wheeling or on snow/ice - for the latter you really don't want an LSD as it will make your Jeep go straight but the rear lsd will help.
I run a Detroit True-Trac in my D30. With the disconnect, you will not notice the LSD. Since the OP has a TJ, he will notice the under-steer. It's noticeable but is something you can live with. You can counter it with a bit more throttle and a rear locker.
Personally, I would not put any money in the D35c. Even with 33's as your limit, the money is better spent on an 8.8". Disc brakes, 31 spline shafts, 4.10:1 gears and an Eaton LSD. Go with a Ranger XLT and you get 10" drums and 4.56:1.
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The D30 especially the one in a TJ benefits from a truss. On a TJ the diff housing it self deflects not even to speak of the long tube. It's the reason a lot of the old style ARB lockers snap the small bolts that hold it together, also not good for ring and pinion life if you spend money for shafts and a locker a good truss like the one from TNT is a small investment and it does diminish flex in the axle housing. Even with 32" tires I had problems with axle flex in the front axle. Climbing on big rocks with the front locker on the arb would start leaking air due to the diff housing flexing, changed to a high pinion and put a truss on and no more air leaks.
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Locker or LSD- either will be a big help on the trail. Some people seem to think that a locker helps the gear rigidity, helping the axle to live longer. It may be true- my '89 wrangler has been locked for 10+ years and is still running the original shafts. When I regeared three years ago, the shafts showed no signs of twisting and were reinstalled. I put a TruTrac in the front; it works fairly well. If I had it to do over, I'd do a selectable. BTW, I'm running 33" tires with 4.88 gears powered by a warmed up 4 banger.
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Go woth D60's front and rear with ARB's...has worked out great for me.... :blbl:
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D60's and 33" or 35" tires make for boat anchors on rocks and a bit of overkill for a 4 banger, now for a V8 churning 37's or some 40's and some play on the hammers it's the ticket without a doubt.
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The 4banger will save you some trouble. It really is more reliable to be underpowered.
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The 4banger will save you some trouble. It really is more reliable to be underpowered.
Thanks for the new sig! :thumbsup:
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Glad you liked it :biggrin:
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lol that is pretty funny man :lol:
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Death to the dana 35 long live the 44 and the 8.8......
I kept blowing up third members on the street in my 35 axle,
replaced it with a 44 after wizzing god knows how many dollars into the 35.
The housing is the problem, the tubes are too thin and they
don't go far enough in to the center section.
I see the same responses in every forum.
"I have x friends with no problems...."
IMHO they are just lucky ,,, until they arent... :)
Dave D35 score:
1 Blown ARB when the center spread enough to let the bearings spin.
1 Blown Replacement that pitched the spider pin out through the housing.
(With a note saying I would get 1 only and that ARB
did not recommend their product for the D35.) They were not kidding.
1 Blown true-trac that somehow locked up and blew its guts,
I eventually found it had a piece of 1 axle that had chipped and ate the unit.
Dana 44 with ARB, in for several years now with only the
occasional axle seal leak to get my attention.
Dave