4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: jeeper78 on October 10, 2009, 12:01:13 AM
-
I'm gonna be looking for a ford 8.8 this winter and I wanted to see what kinda cash I'll be spending on AVERAGE. All I'm looking for is an average of what it would cost to have a shop BUILD the 8.8 with the gearing and the welding to have the rear ready for my 97 TJ. Not worried about the cost of the 8.8 from a yard or the cost of dealing with the brakes- those I can deal with on my own. It would help me deal with a budget for my christmas shopping-- more for the rear, less for the family. :twofingers: Thanks guys
-
I'm gonna be looking for a ford 8.8 this winter and I wanted to see what kinda cash I'll be spending on AVERAGE. All I'm looking for is an average of what it would cost to have a shop BUILD the 8.8 with the gearing and the welding to have the rear ready for my 97 TJ. Not worried about the cost of the 8.8 from a yard or the cost of dealing with the brakes- those I can deal with on my own. It would help me deal with a budget for my christmas shopping-- more for the rear, less for the family. :twofingers: Thanks guys
This is what you are looking at for brackets; RE9969 TJ Axle Bracket Kit Rear, $350.00
And cost of gears and master install kit from Complete Off Road approx $300.00
-
Labor rates are going to vary from area to area. Call around and compare rates. Most shops here are about $75 per hour. Some shops have set prices for setting up gears, some go by the hour.
-
probably you're looking at least $700 with the welding and gear setup if not more
that being the case and adding up all the little things around it i am thinking you might be better off with a Rubi D44 from a junkyard that also comes with a locker, complete bolt-on and no guess work.
-
probably you're looking at least $700 with the welding and gear setup if not more
that being the case and adding up all the little things around it i am thinking you might be better off with a Rubi D44 from a junkyard that also comes with a locker, complete bolt-on and no guess work.
If it was me, I think I'd go with a Rubi, Sahara or Sport 44-3 or an axle that was already setup for the TJ. Labor is going to cost a lot.
-
If it was me, I think I'd go with a Rubi, Sahara or Sport 44-3 or an axle that was already setup for the TJ. Labor is going to cost a lot.
Thats the thing about the yards around here. It seems that of the 15 yards in my area no-one "carries" anything jeep anymore. They won't even do searches for parts. I talked to a few local jeepers and apparently jeep parts here are such a hot commodity that if anything winds up in the local yards, it automatically goes to the ebay auctions. What they do have a lot of is Exploders. We have a very large illegal immigrant wormhole in my area (seriously-- cockroaches are a minority in comparison) and they all appear to love any ford trucks-- f150's, rangers, explorers, excursions. So finding an 8.8 with 4.10's shouldn't be too big of a problem. (My stock gears are 4.10). I did read up on jeep forum that ok4w carries the 8.8 thats set up for TJ's(spring perches, shock mounts, yada-yada). I looked at their website and only found that they carry 8.8's with TJ set ups in 3.73(could be wrong on the numbers) for about $1350. I'm gonna have to give them a call and see if they can do either 4.10(which I have) or 4.88's(which I'll eventually go up to). The good thing is that they're in jersey so I could always just go and pick it up.
I'm wondering if anybody else in the continental U.S. is experiencing jeep parts shortages like I am. :brick[/quote]
-
http://www.lindersinc.com/index.htm?bhcp=1 has a TJ d44 for $950 but as with the other TJ d44's it has 3.73 gears. Check out www.car-part.com to search for rear axle assemblies in junkyards, by city/state/region whatever.
-
http://www.lindersinc.com/index.htm?bhcp=1 has a TJ d44 for $950 but as with the other TJ d44's it has 3.73 gears. Check out www.car-part.com to search for rear axle assemblies in junkyards, by city/state/region whatever.
Thanks for the info. Definitely gonna check into that tonight.
-
Costs vary from research, location, shipping, and location.
My 2000 8.8 was $185 from the yard.
R&P(4.88s) was $199.
LockRight was $275.
Mad4x4 were $300.
Welding free (co-clubber).
Next, there are other small expenses - hard brake line with 'T', passenger side soft line, hard to soft line hold downs, parking brake adapter, rear ds flange (bolts to front yoke), ujoints (possibly), and brake hardware (calipers, rotors, pads).
Your TJ has a different brake line setup on the stock axle. You will need to change the drop line into a 'T' on the axle and add hard lines to the calipers (if your 8.8 has calipers (95-01)). The Explorer driver's side soft line is integrated into its hard line (can't separate). That is why you need an additional passenger side soft line. You are also going to need a bolt and nut welded to the tubing to hold the conversion point of hard to soft on the axle. The parking brake will also need an adapter to hold onto the 8.8 backing plate. The rear ds will require a yoke flange put on. Spicer has one that works with the stock rear ds joints. Might as well replace the joints since you will have the rear ds out. Then there is the maintenance of the brakes in the 8.8.
I figure I have ~$1300 into mine as a whole. I replaced the pads, 1 caliper (couldn't bleed the stock one), and the little incidentals added up. I still don't have a parking brake (not a problem as I have an auto).
-
Thanks Jag! -- thats some good info.
I was actually gonna take a welding course this winter at one of the local tech-schools, so thats one of the reasons I would'nt mind finding a ford 8.8 with 4.10's. (Obviously I'll put in plenty of practice on a welder b4 tackling a job like a rear end). -- And yes I am very handy with doing anything from major home upgrades - to major auto builds. I rebuilt the engine 5 years ago on my 2000 civic Si. Would I do it again? NO!!! -- It's not that it was hard, I just don't have the damn patience. So I'd rather weld than do my own gears.
Right now I can deal with the 4.10 gears and 33x10.5 AT's-- I only live about 10 min's from work. So upgrading from the weak axle tubes on the 35c to the 8.8 is the best bet for me. Just so I can have some fun without worrying about something breaking.
-
If you are going to weld the tubes to the housing, the mild steel tube cool faster than the cast center section which can pull the weld apart. Try and keep the cooling speed close, heat with a torch before and after welding if you can to keep a common temperature. I heard theres a silicon wire for mig welders that lets molecules expand after welding but its expensive. Im just going to use 7018 on mine and hope it doesnt break. Just use multiple tacks and dont weld continuously. Perches are much easier since its all mild steel. Good Luck
-
I use 55% nickel rods to weld the tubes to the center chunk and it seems to work fine with no pre or post heating.
-
Costs vary from research, location, shipping, and location.
My 2000 8.8 was $185 from the yard.
R&P(4.88s) was $199.
LockRight was $275.
Mad4x4 brackets were $300.
Welding free (co-clubber).
Next, there are other small expenses - hard brake line with 'T', passenger side soft line, hard to soft line hold downs, parking brake adapter, rear ds flange (bolts to front yoke), ujoints (possibly), and brake hardware (calipers, rotors, pads).
Your TJ has a different brake line setup on the stock axle. You will need to change the drop line into a 'T' on the axle and add hard lines to the calipers (if your 8.8 has calipers (95-01)). The Explorer driver's side soft line is integrated into its hard line (can't separate). That is why you need an additional passenger side soft line. You are also going to need a bolt and nut welded to the tubing to hold the conversion point of hard to soft on the axle. The parking brake will also need an adapter to hold onto the 8.8 backing plate. The rear ds will require a yoke flange put on. Spicer has one that works with the stock rear ds joints. Might as well replace the joints since you will have the rear ds out. Then there is the maintenance of the brakes in the 8.8.
I figure I have ~$1300 into mine as a whole. I replaced the pads, 1 caliper (couldn't bleed the stock one), and the little incidentals added up. I still don't have a parking brake (not a problem as I have an auto).
-
I dont know if youve done it yet but i just finished mine last night. I did the whole swap for about $250. I got the axle for 145 at picknpull with limited slip and 3.73s. MORE flange adapter for 32(christmas sale) and another 30 for perches and 15 for brake hose. I welded the tubes with 7018 with no problems. Disk brakes can use D35 hardlines if you cut them or bend more to fit. I hate flaring lines so i just bent mine until i can get a new one. So far i like the axle is great. Stops much faster with disk brakes. Good luck.
-
A competent shop should be able to cut the TJ brackets off your axle and transplant them to the 8.8 w/out much fuss. Don't flush $350 on a TJ bracket kit you don't really need. SYE is a must in my book. You may be able to drop the tranny skid so if doesn't vibe with the slip yoke, but why spend the money and then top it off with a turd move like that?
-
i did my sye at same time. why have someone weld up perches twice. with or without tho think drive shaft needs to be shortened. $20 junkyard xj shaft $74to have shortened
-
I got a '96 with all the brakes for $100, and they pulled and loaded it for me.
It's an open 3.55, but I'm regearing to 4.88 anyway and installing a locker...perfect!
I got this adapter from a '91 Ford Aerostar w/8.8 for $6. New they are going for about $30.
Money saved!