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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: FourbangerYJ on October 11, 2009, 11:56:32 AM
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So I swapped the injectors this morning. Upon start up I got a CEL. ( I have no idea how to tell what code is thrown). I took it for a short drive and found it was really lacking power. Came home to find I did not connect of one the fuel lines right. So I fixed that. But still get the CEL.
Also it does not idle right. Normally on start up it will idle high for a bit then drop to normal. It does not idle high upon start up and has a rough idle.
Ideas?
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I found a code checking deal online. So I am throwing a 12, don't know that that one is and (2) 27 fuel injector control. I checked the wiring where it connects to the injector and found that the #1 plastic clip has a crack in it. It seems to attach OK but I wonder if it's enough to throw a code?
I re-started it and it still does not idle high, also runs real rough.
The change in sound is nice. It's much throatier than before.
I am gonna try resetting the ECU.
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Yes, a crack in the plastic clip, especially the part that holds down the connector is enough to throw a code. BTDT, mine is #3... I just make sure it's on tight and it seems to hold ok since.
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Yes, a crack in the plastic clip, especially the part that holds down the connector is enough to throw a code. BTDT, mine is #3... I just make sure it's on tight and it seems to hold ok since.
Is this a dealer only thing? It seems to hold but pulling off is fairly easy compared to the others.
After resetting the ECU the code 12 is gone and one of the code 27's.
But it still does not idle right. It's real boggy. Sounds like it's loaded up with fuel.
What would cause the idle not to run high after starting?
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this is speculation as the knowledge / concept is based off of how the TBI system works (but i think this part would apply to both tbi and mpi)... the idle air controller (or was it idle throttle position thingamajig) fully extends when you turn off the key (so that at idle you will get the most air coming in as the system allows) so that when you start the jeep you will get more fuel / air in than at running idle giving you an elevated idle until the computer throttles back that setting after start up.... so if that idel air / idel throtel positin thing got messed up and isn't extending you wouldn't get elevated idle at start up...
in short i would check any connections on the Tb in case you bumped them or something.. although if that was the problem you would probably of issues at other times when driving.. worth a check either way since you where working near there.
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Scott after you reset the ECM it takes awhile for the idle to stabilize and also the ECM has to relearn rework it's fuel adaptive tables.
If it doesn't miss go drive it for about an hour and see how it does.
To reset disconnect the battery clamps and hold then together for a couple of minutes to discharge the capacitors in the ECM
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Is this a dealer only thing? It seems to hold but pulling off is fairly easy compared to the others.
After resetting the ECU the code 12 is gone and one of the code 27's.
But it still does not idle right. It's real boggy. Sounds like it's loaded up with fuel.
What would cause the idle not to run high after starting?
High idle is usually a vacuum leak someplace. But if the connector on one injector is questionable, unplug it and see if there is any change. The engine should still idle but with a slight change in tone. If you try driving it, you'll really feel the loss of power. You should be able to buy a replacement connector and swap out the connector itself without having to cut and solder since the pins are ok still.
Are you sure the injectors you're using are good and firing?
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if it runs rough first thing i would think of is one of the injectors is not working (also based on the code) - you can unplug one at a time and see if the idle changes, when it doesn't that's where the problem is. Second thing (i assumed you checked this already but just in case) is to make sure they are high impedance. and the third thing (which should throw a different code however) is to make sure they are the correct flow - what P/N are they?
EDIT: Jeffy already suggested the unplug test, i missed that the first time around.
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What would cause the idle not to run high after starting?
does it go lower in rpm once is warmed up - if only 3 cyl are working the idle would be lower, that can be one cause. Also, if you're too rich or too lean can cause the same issue - lower idle rpm.
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I unplugged and repluged the AIS and TPS. They looked fine but you never know. Started it up and it was more normal. Idle was high upon start then went to it's normal RPM. While it was idleing I messed with the injector plugs one at a time. There was a couple I messed with and the RPM's changed. I am going to hit up the dealer to get new plugs for all of them.
Went for anther test drive. It's much better with the gas lines plugged in. When I started driving there was no CEL, pulling into the driveway the CEL came on.
I noticed starting out there is a bit of a bog then it gets going. Also coming to a stop it bogs down a bit.
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I unplugged and repluged the AIS and TPS. They looked fine but you never know. Started it up and it was more normal. Idle was high upon start then went to it's normal RPM. While it was idleing I messed with the injector plugs one at a time. There was a couple I messed with and the RPM's changed. I am going to hit up the dealer to get new plugs for all of them.
Went for anther test drive. It's much better with the gas lines plugged in. When I started driving there was no CEL, pulling into the driveway the CEL came on.
I noticed starting out there is a bit of a bog then it gets going. Also coming to a stop it bogs down a bit.
it could also be that one of them is leaking, you can check that with the rail off and put the contact on a few times to make pressure in the rail. Sometimes injector cleaner would work for that but it is unlikely to be a long term fix.
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Went for anther test drive. It's much better with the gas lines plugged in.
I would hope so! :stick: :smokes:
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u get it all straightened out? what did the injectors come out of are they the other set of cobra injectors?
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I would hope so! :stick: :smokes:
I know,right! :twofingers:
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u get it all straightened out? what did the injectors come out of are they the other set of cobra injectors?
I went to the stealership this morning. First he said the clips were not avail. Then he looked again and said they were $25 each. So I said I would try and glue them.
So I tried some Krazy glue gel. That failed! So I went out and got some Elmers model glue. I just got done glueing the connectors. There is 2 that are broke. It cures in 24 hours. I might try a zip tie too.
I'll fire it up tom. and see what's what.
They are the same type Cobra injectors you have. I have another set here, so I might swap them if it does not run right after some miles get put on it.
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I went to the stealership this morning. First he said the clips were not avail. Then he looked again and said they were $25 each. So I said I would try and glue them.
So I tried some Krazy glue gel. That failed! So I went out and got some Elmers model glue. I just got done glueing the connectors. There is 2 that are broke. It cures in 24 hours. I might try a zip tie too.
I'll fire it up tom. and see what's what.
They are the same type Cobra injectors you have. I have another set here, so I might swap them if it does not run right after some miles get put on it.
the clips on the connectors are only to keep them from coming out - you could use some silicone or rtv for the same purpose (but i guess it's kinda late now for me to say that).
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the clips on the connectors are only to keep them from coming out - you could use some silicone or rtv for the same purpose (but i guess it's kinda late now for me to say that).
I know, but when I would touch those 2 the idle would change from rough to normal. So I wanted a tight fit.
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I know, but when I would touch those 2 the idle would change from rough to normal. So I wanted a tight fit.
just guessing then that it was the harness connectors, you could try and get them closed up a little - not sure if the glue would keep the electrical connection firm. keep us posted how that worked out though.
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Any way you can cinch them down with a small zip tie?
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You should be able to find replacement plugs on ebay or any auto parts store BUT you'll want to take apart the originals and put them back together without cutting them. Cutting and soldering would be the worst case scenario. I would clip them on then use a zip-tie to hold the plug together. Glue isn't going to hold it together since they are small and they have tension on them when they are either removed or installed. ie. it will break again.
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You should be able to find replacement plugs on ebay or any auto parts store BUT you'll want to take apart the originals and put them back together without cutting them. Cutting and soldering would be the worst case scenario. I would clip them on then use a zip-tie to hold the plug together. Glue isn't going to hold it together since they are small and they have tension on them when they are either removed or installed. ie. it will break again.
Well one broke and one held. I started it again this AM and let it warm up. It was much better as far as the idle. After it warmed up the idle went to it's normal RPM. But the CEL was on. I turned it off, then re-started it...no CEL. I just started it again, no CEL. I guess it's going to be a hit and miss thing.
I did notice once warmed up the idle would be smooth for the most part, then it would idle kinda rough for a split second then smooth out again.
I did try a small zip tie, but the connector has some windows on the sides. So making it tight without it slipping is going to be tough.
But on a side note I ordered my PD Ignition today. Should be here next week! :dance:
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I had all kinds of issues when I tried the injector swap just like you are. My Jeep ran like shit and kept dying after a really low idle. There was also lots of carbon in the exhaust. :nono:
Not only that, but my 1st injector stopped working correctly and I had to run on 3 cylinders for a few months. The reason that happened was because I had one of the plastic connectors crack into 3 peices, so I went to the local pick-n-pull yard and took 3 connectors off of a cherokee and just put one on (took old one off and put wires in new one).
Now, my injectors were bad and that's why my Jeep sounded terrible and died after starting it so I swapped the old ones back in and took the injectors back, suprisingly they gave me my cash back and the Jeep ran fine again.
I recently ordered a set of 4 Gen 2 19lbs. injectors that were refurbed and I'm hoping I'll have better luck this time. :beers:
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This is why, it's best to get the lowest mileage injectors that you can get.
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I am not sure how many miles are on the ones I swapped in. I think I am going to hang onto the extra set I have in case these don't work out.
I have hardly ran it since the swap. It does seem to run OK. I think the ECU needs some time to adjust.
I would think when I swap in the PD kit it should help burn the bit of extra fuel too.
The first time I started it there was some black watery gunk that came out of the exhaust. Now it drips but it's clear. Maybe there was some gunky fuel in the injectors :confused:
On the clips will a 4.0 one work? I wouldn't think so but I thought I would ask. I went to Napa and the said they can't get them. Any idea what stores might? After watching Mythbusters last night I might try duck (duct) tape. :fitz:
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I am not sure how many miles are on the ones I swapped in. I think I am going to hang onto the extra set I have in case these don't work out.
I have hardly ran it since the swap. It does seem to run OK. I think the ECU needs some time to adjust.
I would think when I swap in the PD kit it should help burn the bit of extra fuel too.
The first time I started it there was some black watery gunk that came out of the exhaust. Now it drips but it's clear. Maybe there was some gunky fuel in the injectors :confused:
On the clips will a 4.0 one work? I wouldn't think so but I thought I would ask. I went to Napa and the said they can't get them. Any idea what stores might? After watching Mythbusters last night I might try duck (duct) tape. :fitz:
if you're asking about the connector clips they are the same (same connector) for 4.0 and 2.5. In fact i believe all EV1 connectors would have the same clip. even the injector clips would work between 4.0 and 2.5 (the ones holding the injectors on the rail).
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if you're asking about the connector clips they are the same (same connector) for 4.0 and 2.5. In fact i believe all EV1 connectors would have the same clip. even the injector clips would work between 4.0 and 2.5 (the ones holding the injectors on the rail).
Good to know. I'll keep an eye out. The Gen III injectors don't use the metal clips to hold the injector to the fuel rail.
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I am not sure how many miles are on the ones I swapped in. I think I am going to hang onto the extra set I have in case these don't work out.
I have hardly ran it since the swap. It does seem to run OK. I think the ECU needs some time to adjust.
I would think when I swap in the PD kit it should help burn the bit of extra fuel too.
The first time I started it there was some black watery gunk that came out of the exhaust. Now it drips but it's clear. Maybe there was some gunky fuel in the injectors :confused:
On the clips will a 4.0 one work? I wouldn't think so but I thought I would ask. I went to Napa and the said they can't get them. Any idea what stores might? After watching Mythbusters last night I might try duck (duct) tape. :fitz:
The plugs are called EV1's. They are a standardized plug for Bosch injectors.
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/treperformance/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=
http://www.jegs.com/i/AEM/017/30-2020/10002/-1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-2400/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-2400/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-2400/
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_CONNECT.asp
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The plugs are called EV1's. They are a standardized plug for Bosch injectors.
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/treperformance/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=
http://www.jegs.com/i/AEM/017/30-2020/10002/-1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-2400/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-2400/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-2400/
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_CONNECT.asp
:bow: Thanks!
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i was doing some research on the injector swap and found that the 5.0 stock fuel pump only runs 80 to 90 psi and the wranglers runs 90 to 100 what kind of concern shuold i have about fowling plugs and so on? do the plugs need to be gapped differently or ron a hotter plug to compensate? I am planning on planning on doing the swap tomorrow and am trying to make this gp as smoothly as possible. thanks in advance
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i was doing some research on the injector swap and found that the 5.0 stock fuel pump only runs 80 to 90 psi and the wranglers runs 90 to 100 what kind of concern shuold i have about fowling plugs and so on? do the plugs need to be gapped differently or ron a hotter plug to compensate? I am planning on planning on doing the swap tomorrow and am trying to make this gp as smoothly as possible. thanks in advance
not sure if i really understand what you're asking but: the fuel pressure has pretty much nothing to do with the spark plugs. the colder or hotter plugs mean how fast the spark plug would remove the heat out of the chamber, hotter plugs remove the heat slower and to give an example the higher compression ratio engines or forced induction engines (turbo/blowers) use colder plugs.
also, fuel pressure rating on a pump is the max pressure that the pump would make - but you can have a pump that is rated at max 80 psi with a higher flow than one that is rated at 100 since neither one will actually be used at that pressure (like the TJ which operates at 49psi)
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i guess what i was trying to get at was that there are no more mods or changes that need to be made for the swap to compensate for the extra fuel being delivered. Sorry didn't explai it very well.
didn't end up doing it today, cant control the weather
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i guess what i was trying to get at was that there are no more mods or changes that need to be made for the swap to compensate for the extra fuel being delivered. Sorry didn't explai it very well.
didn't end up doing it today, cant control the weather
Is that going to be your only mod?
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Well, I took it out for a drive. It started out running good. Pulled a hill that normally bogged the motor. Seemed like it had good power. Then it had a shudder at about 3K RPM's. It got worse. Then it would not go above 2500 RPM, it sounded like junk! Then is seemed to clear up ran good for about 2 seconds and started to run like crap.
Looks like I am going to pull those injectors and install the other set I have. :baby: Good thing it's a pretty easy job.
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Thinking about it for a bit. The trouble started after the CEL came on. I wonder if those 2 broken clips are for some reason not making a good enough contact and are not firing the injector? They seem tight.
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Thinking about it for a bit. The trouble started after the CEL came on. I wonder if those 2 broken clips are for some reason not making a good enough contact and are not firing the injector? They seem tight.
What codes? 25?
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Thinking about it for a bit. The trouble started after the CEL came on. I wonder if those 2 broken clips are for some reason not making a good enough contact and are not firing the injector? They seem tight.
take the rail out and have 4 jars under the injectors (or 2 bigger ones since the 1-2 and 3-4 cyl are close enough). unplug your ignition coil and have someone crank the engine while you watch the spray coming out of the injectors - could be that one or 2 of them is/are squirting rather than misting fuel and the symptom is somewhat similar to when they are unplugged. I would also check the plugs and see if any of them are wet or really black.
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Well, I swapped in the other set. Runs the same as with the first set.
I have not checked the code. I am guessing it's the F.I. connector.
I thought about pulling the spark plug to see what's going on.
Good idea on the pulling the rail and coil wire.
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Just got my refurbed Gen-2 19lbs. Injectors in the mail yesterday.
Not sure that I wan't to put them in yet since I'll be going on a trip in less than two weeks.
I have the 4.0TB and have removed the airbox restrictors. I hope that is enough for the injectors to be used to their full extent.
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What codes? 25?
12 and 27. I know what 27 is, it's the FI control. What's 12?
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Scott, I have a little pulser box so you can pulse the injectors individually and see what the pressure drop for each one is. Is about the best way to test the injectors.
Some auto parts stores carry the tool also. It's the easiest way to see how much fuel each injector flows. In general broken clips on a injector wire connector does not generally cause a misfire
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12 = Lean condition + MAP low vacume signal if I recall from my hell trip a couple weeks ago...
Dave
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Well, I swapped in the other set. Runs the same as with the first set.
I have not checked the code. I am guessing it's the F.I. connector.
I thought about pulling the spark plug to see what's going on.
Good idea on the pulling the rail and coil wire.
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,3419.0.html
Disconnected battery
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Ah I was thinking of 13... It wasn't in my freeking haynes manual, had to call a dealer to get it... arrg.
Dave
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I pulled all 4 spark plugs. They look good. Not gassy or black. They were a light brown/reddish color.
Gonna pull the fuel rail again, maybe the injectors are not seated all the way in?
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I pulled all 4 spark plugs. They look good. Not gassy or black. They were a light brown/reddish color.
Gonna pull the fuel rail again, maybe the injectors are not seated all the way in?
If the rail bolted down then they are seated.
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Scott I would do a pressure drop test to make sure that the injectors are good and they all spray a fairly even volume of fuel
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Well I was starting to take the fuel rail off and decieded to swap the stockers back in. (good thing I took Jeffy's advice and numbered them). She fired right up and runs like a champ!
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Well I was starting to take the fuel rail off and decieded to swap the stockers back in. (good thing I took Jeffy's advice and numbered them). She fired right up and runs like a champ!
So swap in the other set and see if it works.
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So swap in the other set and see if it works.
I did (page 3) same results as the first set. Wierd having 2 sets that didn't work out. :puzzled:
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I did (page 3) same results as the first set. Wierd having 2 sets that didn't work out. :puzzled:
Were you able to tell which injectors had issues? You can mix and match the two sets.
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Were you able to tell which injectors had issues? You can mix and match the two sets.
x2
or even better i would make myself an injector pigtail and check them individually - jump the pump and activate one injector at a time, check how they atomize and if they leak and also pair them (that means keep them open for a specific amount of time and then see how much they release - the ones that release the same amount are the ones you want to use). You can even tell if they are flowing at specs, so if you keep one open for 5 minutes, weigh the amount of fuel that was released and then times that by 12 it will give you the flow in lbs/hr - in your case they should flow about 18lbs/hr since they are at 39 psi on the YJ fuel rail (the rating you have of 19# should be at 43.5).
you might want to have a good charger connected to the battery if you decide to do this so you make sure the pump delivers the same amount from beggining to end.
i'm really interested in seeing what the problem is though, weird that you had 2 sets doing the same thing.
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Were you able to tell which injectors had issues? You can mix and match the two sets.
Not really. I would need to have them flow tested. I wonder if there is not enough pressure to run them. It ran like it was not getting fuel. After 2500RPM it was flat...no power at all. Plus it sounded real bad.
I am glad that it works with the OE stuff. I was getting worried I jacked something up.
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Not really. I would need to have them flow tested. I wonder if there is not enough pressure to run them. It ran like it was not getting fuel. After 2500RPM it was flat...no power at all. Plus it sounded real bad.
I am glad that it works with the OE stuff. I was getting worried I jacked something up.
They all were bad? If it was one or two you could have localized them by pulling the injector plug. Like I said before the engine will idle with 3 cylinders but sound funny and be really down on power if you try to drive it. I'd be surprised of all 8 of your injectors are bad.
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They all were bad? If it was one or two you could have localized them by pulling the injector plug. Like I said before the engine will idle with 3 cylinders but sound funny and be really down on power if you try to drive it. I'd be surprised of all 8 of your injectors are bad.
maybe the flow is different, that would explain it - fourbanger, what P/N are these?
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maybe the flow is different, that would explain it - fourbanger, what P/N are these?
Bosch should be universal with the body color code. What was the donor vehicle as well?
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maybe the flow is different, that would explain it - fourbanger, what P/N are these?
Ford P/N F4SE-A1B
They all were bad? If it was one or two you could have localized them by pulling the injector plug. Like I said before the engine will idle with 3 cylinders but sound funny and be really down on power if you try to drive it. I'd be surprised of all 8 of your injectors are bad.
I would be surprised too. I didn't feel like messing with it. So after pulling the spark plugs and not finding them all black I said screw it and just put the OE's back in. When I get more time to screw with it I might give it a go by checking it one by one.
First I am going to instal the PD kit. It should be here today or tom. (fingers crossed)
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Bosch should be universal with the body color code. What was the donor vehicle as well?
I was told Cobra Mustang. They are yellow design III.
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They all were bad? If it was one or two you could have localized them by pulling the injector plug. Like I said before the engine will idle with 3 cylinders but sound funny and be really down on power if you try to drive it. I'd be surprised of all 8 of your injectors are bad.
It just dawned on me what you meant. If it runs like junk when I start it. It will run like junk when I pull the bad plug. If it gets worse I pulled a good one. When I get some time I'll see if I can find the bad one(s).
I'll bet that is why the CEL came one too. One of them is tripping it. No light with the OE's in there.
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Ford P/N F4SE-A1B
i can't confirm this but I found these injectors as equivalent for a Bosh P/N 0-280-155-700 out of a 5.0L v8 with a flow of 18.25lb/hr@43.5psi - which means on your YJ at 39psi you are actually getting a little less than stock (17.28lb/hr) - if i were you i would compare the 2 (stock and the ones you have) and see which one flows more (and what is the difference). Again, can't confirm this as the specs are off the bosch one and not the Ford P/N you listed.
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I think the real question is why is he the only one having trouble?
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i have the other set of injectors out of that donor car that came out of (bought from him awhile back) and haven't put them yet. That could expain why no one else is having the issues he is.
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i have the other set of injectors out of that donor car that came out of (bought from him awhile back) and haven't put them yet. That could expain why no one else is having the issues he is.
When I get things sorted out I can send you any injectors that left over and good to you if you have any problems.
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I think the real question is why is he the only one having trouble?
maybe 2 out of 8 are bad, not unheard of i guess
just to clarify, that flow would be just fine, very close to stock with better atomization so he shouldn't have any problems running the injectors. As far as increased performance with those (like in more HP), if the flow rating i found is correct probably not so much.
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not so worried about the confusion. . .have faith that u will make it right in the end, wish i could install mine to see if i was going to have the same issues but not an option my jeep is on loan to a family member who wa without a vechicle for another month or 2 so let me know what u guys figure out and i will keep following the progress and troubleshooting your working on
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i just checked the cobra injectors that u sent me and the P/N is exact bosch number as the the injector that is 18.25 so the ones that i have are not a 19# so Fourbanger u might check yours and your CEL problems could be that u couldd have them mixed up running some of the 18.25's and some of the true 19#'s that would cause a different amount of fuel correct? might be your rough idle, might be worth checking
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I decided to put my Gen II 19lbs. injectors in today and they all worked just fine. I had a connector issue with injector one but that's just due to a bad contact on the connector itself, some electrical contact clean and a little wire jiggling later and I had it running just fine.
It seems to accelerate smoother, but this could be due to the fact that these injectors were rebuilt and not just some junkyard injectors. Thus, making them an improvement over my 140k mile stock ones.
I will say for a fact that I can accelerate past 3k RPM better than before. That needle increases steadily until it hits 3k and then it takes off to 4k RPM before slowly increasing again. (Of course I rarely take it past 4k RPM). The only other mods I have done are the 4.0TB and Taurus fan mods. (In contrast, these mods seemed to help my Low-End power)
So over all, it gave me a smoother and quicker acceleration as well as some more Hi-End boost in the 3-4k range. No difference down low though. (That I could feel anyway)
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I decided to put my Gen II 19lbs. injectors in today and they all worked just fine. I had a connector issue with injector one but that's just due to a bad contact on the connector itself, some electrical contact clean and a little wire jiggling later and I had it running just fine.
It seems to accelerate smoother, but this could be due to the fact that these injectors were rebuilt and not just some junkyard injectors. Thus, making them an improvement over my 140k mile stock ones.
I will say for a fact that I can accelerate past 3k RPM better than before. That needle increases steadily until it hits 3k and then it takes off to 4k RPM before slowly increasing again. (Of course I rarely take it past 4k RPM). The only other mods I have done are the 4.0TB and Taurus fan mods. (In contrast, these mods seemed to help my Low-End power)
So over all, it gave me a smoother and quicker acceleration as well as some more Hi-End boost in the 3-4k range. No difference down low though. (That I could feel anyway)
i think the improvement would be noticeable in open loop since in closed loop (low to mid range with partial throttle) the mixture is adjusted by your PCM based on O2 feedback - in time will get back to stock when in closed loop as the computer will adjust the fuel trims slowly towards minimum based on what it learns from the O2 sensor, however they should be better atomization of the fuel so you should see some better mileage as well (probably not too much but there should be some).
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If I get even a 1mpg increase I'll be excited :dance:
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I decided to put my Gen II 19lbs. injectors in today and they all worked just fine. I had a connector issue with injector one but that's just due to a bad contact on the connector itself, some electrical contact clean and a little wire jiggling later and I had it running just fine.
It seems to accelerate smoother, but this could be due to the fact that these injectors were rebuilt and not just some junkyard injectors. Thus, making them an improvement over my 140k mile stock ones.
I will say for a fact that I can accelerate past 3k RPM better than before. That needle increases steadily until it hits 3k and then it takes off to 4k RPM before slowly increasing again. (Of course I rarely take it past 4k RPM). The only other mods I have done are the 4.0TB and Taurus fan mods. (In contrast, these mods seemed to help my Low-End power)
So over all, it gave me a smoother and quicker acceleration as well as some more Hi-End boost in the 3-4k range. No difference down low though. (That I could feel anyway)
Well I am glad it worked out for you. I had a feeling it would since your injectors were tested and cleaned.
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I found a local company that can flow test and clean injectors. Not sure on price yet. I might send these to get cleaned up depending on price.
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I found a local company that can flow test and clean injectors. Not sure on price yet. I might send these to get cleaned up depending on price.
It's $15.00 each to test, and clean. Might think about it. Its more to clean and test than what I paid for them. But atleast I would know they are good.
Thoughts?
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It's $15.00 each to test, and clean. Might think about it. Its more to clean and test than what I paid for them. But atleast I would know they are good.
Thoughts?
hmm, you can test them yourself - you have 8, i'm sure you'll come up with 4 good ones out of those. You can also flow match them which is what is recommended for second hand injectors.
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hmm, you can test them yourself - you have 8, i'm sure you'll come up with 4 good ones out of those. You can also flow match them which is what is recommended for second hand injectors.
Not really. From looking at a E-bay bid they show PICS of how they test theirs. It looks like without the right equipment gas would get all over the place.
I could take a bunch of time and play musical injectors but I am not in the mood to do that.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280412162235&viewitem=&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching
They show PICS of the testing in this auction.
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Not really. From looking at a E-bay bid they show PICS of how they test theirs. It looks like without the right equipment gas would get all over the place.
I could take a bunch of time and play musical injectors but I am not in the mood to do that.
just thinking you could save some $$$, that's all - but of course it's up to you.
you could use a bottle and stick the injector tip inside - weigh the bottle before and after to get the flow (use a stop watch to time it). for checking how well it atomizes the fuel use a jar with a bigger opening and look at the jet pattern - you could tell pretty easy if it squirting or drips. You only do one injector at a time, always open (not cranking the motor) by using 1 injector pigtail.
Of course you can always have them tested but i was thinking 15x8=$120, you can probably get a set of 4 brand new injectors for that amount if not a set of almost new for even less than that.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280412162235&viewitem=&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching
They show PICS of the testing in this auction.
yeah - you can do the same thing, like i said one at a time - you don't need to do them all together as long as you make sure your battery is charged and hooked up to a good charger your pump should deliver the same pressure between runs.
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http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=82
I might try this. I don't have a spare harness to get a connector from but cleaning them out and new filters wouldn't hurt.
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http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=82
I might try this. I don't have a spare harness to get a connector from but cleaning them out and new filters wouldn't hurt.
that won't hurt - you can also try to send fuel backwards thru them but you need to keep the injector open.
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Well I soaked the injectors in Sea Foam overnight. I was expecting to see some fuel injector skeleton's when I checked them in the morning. :lol:
Or atleast some dirty fluid. It looked real clean. So I put some brake cleaner in thru the filter side and blew it out with compressed air. I noticed on a couple of them the brake cleaner sat in the filter basket and took a bit of time to soak thru. You could see some air bubbles come up as it soaked in. Maybe it was these that caused all my issues.
So I swapped them in and fired it up. It started and ran normal thru the warm up cycle. No CEL! :doggy:
I have not had a chance to get it out on the road but at least it idled normal.
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If they were that plugged now that you have the diagnosis, I'd have them professionally cleaned.
I've had it done for < 90 bucks. Used ones may have the same issues so I have them cleaned.
Just a thought.
Dave
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If they were that plugged now that you have the diagnosis, I'd have them professionally cleaned.
I've had it done for < 90 bucks. Used ones may have the same issues so I have them cleaned.
Just a thought.
Dave
Ya I don't have alot of confidince in them. There is a local place that will clean, replace O rings and filters and check flow rate for $15@
When you gonna do a build thread on your Jeep? I'd like to see and hear more about it.
What # injectors are you running? 21#?
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Lol, I actually don't know at the moment, I had the factory set running at 45 lbs pressure plug up while
on a hunting trip right after I rebuilt the motor., so I bought a set at a shop in the middle of nowhere
off an engine sitting in their shop. Its been running so good since then I am almost scared to touch them..
I have a writeup somewhere.... Gotta find it its more than I want to re-type... :)
Dave
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http://www.youtube.com/v/VFJlTfHyrUk&color1
I saw this on another forum. Thought it was pretty cool.
When I cleaned mine with brake cleaner I did not get this kind of spray pattern. They are cleaner atleast it runs without issues.
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http://www.youtube.com/v/VFJlTfHyrUk&color1
I saw this on another forum. Thought it was pretty cool.
When I cleaned mine with brake cleaner I did not get this kind of spray pattern. They are cleaner atleast it runs without issues.
You probably didn't get a spray pattern because you didn't have any pressure. The guy is pressurizing the syringe with the carb cleaner which is why it dribbles out at times when there is no/low pressure.
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You probably didn't get a spray pattern because you didn't have any pressure. The guy is pressurizing the syringe with the carb cleaner which is why it dribbles out at times when there is no/low pressure.
That and I didn't have the electrical connector thingy he made to click the injector open and closed.
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Scott, I have a champion injector cleaning setup you are more than welcome to use cleans the injectors on the engine works fairly well
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Scott, I have a champion injector cleaning setup you are more than welcome to use cleans the injectors on the engine works fairly well
Thanks for the offer Art, I think I am OK for now. It runs like it did before I swapped the injectors. So I think I got most of the crud out. I am thinking just because I have it, running a can of Sea Foam in the gas tank. I soaked the injectors in the Sea Foam overnight so there is alot leftover. I guess it wouldn't hurt.
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Thanks for the offer Art, I think I am OK for now. It runs like it did before I swapped the injectors. So I think I got most of the crud out. I am thinking just because I have it, running a can of Sea Foam in the gas tank. I soaked the injectors in the Sea Foam overnight so there is alot leftover. I guess it wouldn't hurt.
if it runs fine don't do it
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if it runs fine don't do it
Yeah, if it's running fine then it doesn't need it. Who knows you might break them again. :wall:
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Yeah, if it's running find then it doesn't need it. Who know's you might break them again. :wall:
:roflol: Seems like I could break an anvil at times. I think every project I have done I've run into trouble. But that's how you learn.
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Injectors do have a service life aas well, I take mine out fairly regularly
and check them as well as running techron regularly About every 3 oil
changes I run a can of the stuff in a tank of fuel.
We have crap for fuel in Oregon so its kind of a must do..
Dave