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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Jeffy on October 15, 2009, 07:11:20 PM
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Well, I just noticed a wood screw in the middle of my tire! :brick: It doesn't seem to be leaking so I'm tempted to just leave it for now. It looks pretty big but my tires are pretty thick so I'm hoping it dodn't pierce all the layers. Should I take the screw out and see if it leaks or just leave it, or have it patched?
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Well, I just noticed a wood screw in the middle of my tire! :brick: It doesn't seem to be leaking so I'm tempted to just leave it for now. It looks pretty big but my tires are pretty thick so I'm hoping it dodn't pierce all the layers. Should I take the screw out and see if it leaks or just leave it, or have it patched?
had the same thing - i took it out and then air start leaking - ran quickly in the garage and grabbed a drywall screw, put it in and no leak. I drove it like that for about 2k, one day i decided to fix it - took 15 min at a tire shop with a patch on the inside. it might not be all the way thru in which case is better to take it out right away and then you won't have to do anything, if you drive it with the screw in it could make more damage or penetrate all the way thru, i would take it out and then put another one in if it leaks - drive it to a tire shop after that.
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had the same thing - i took it out and then air start leaking - ran quickly in the garage and grabbed a drywall screw, put it in and no leak. I drove it like that for about 2k, one day i decided to fix it - took 15 min at a tire shop with a patch on the inside. it might not be all the way thru in which case is better to take it out right away and then you won't have to do anything, if you drive it with the screw in it could make more damage or penetrate all the way thru, i would take it out and then put another one in if it leaks - drive it to a tire shop after that.
Yeah, I know that's what I should do... It's bigger then a dry-wall screw. I'm not looking forward to having to do this though.
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its pretty easy and cheap to plug a tire hole yourself.. i would take it out to prevent any possible farther damage although it could just not leak like sharpxmen's case...
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200317489_200317489
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its pretty easy and cheap to plug a tire hole yourself.. i would take it out to prevent any possible farther damage although it could just not leak like sharpxmen's case...
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200317489_200317489
i was thinking of doing that when i had the screw in but was concerned of what would happen when i deflate the tires to 10 psi or so, i wasn't sure if it would last so i went with the patch on the inside.
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its pretty easy and cheap to plug a tire hole yourself.. i would take it out to prevent any possible farther damage although it could just not leak like sharpxmen's case...
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200317489_200317489
Those are good for trail use but really a patch inside the tire is considered a long term fix.
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http://dt.know-where.com/DiscountTire/
If there is a America's Tire near you they will fix it for free. They will put a plug patch on from the inside. It will last the life of the tire.
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http://dt.know-where.com/DiscountTire/
If there is a America's Tire near you they will fix it for free. They will put a plug patch on from the inside. It will last the life of the tire.
Free huh? I bought my spare from them.
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Ok, I made an apt. thanks for the heads up. I hope it is free.
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Ok, I made an apt. thanks for the heads up. I hope it is free.
If the tire is fixable...no charge! I used to work for them about 10 years ago. We would repair hundreds of tires each month for free.
I went last weekend to get new tires for the Pilot. It's a great place to buy tires from!
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Those are good for trail use but really a patch inside the tire is considered a long term fix.
got a nail in tire when tire was only a few hundred miles on it.. used one of those plugs and didn't leak air for the rest of its life (tire went bold). although that was on a tire that wasn't aired down for offroading so that may affect it.....
discount tire is a good place (got our last few sets of tires from there) and if they will fix it for free you can't beat the price.
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If the tire is fixable...no charge! I used to work for them about 10 years ago. We would repair hundreds of tires each month for free.
I went last weekend to get new tires for the Pilot. It's a great place to buy tires from!
It's dead center in the tread, right between the lugs. From what I remember as long as it's not a tear and not on the sidewall, it's ok to patch.
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got a nail in tire when tire was only a few hundred miles on it.. used one of those plugs and didn't leak air for the rest of its life (tire went bold). although that was on a tire that wasn't aired down for offroading so that may affect it.....
discount tire is a good place (got our last few sets of tires from there) and if they will fix it for free you can't beat the price.
Worms are pretty old school. Patches are 1000x better if you can do it. That doesn't mean people don't use them. Hell, I know some guy's who have tires held together with a string of worms and bailing wire holding their tire together. They use them as spares now though. With heat and the damage that happens to the belts, it's better to use a patch as that doesn't open the belts up any further.
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It's dead center in the tread, right between the lugs. From what I remember as long as it's not a tear and not on the sidewall, it's ok to patch.
Sounds ideal! They won't patch a sidewall or if it's within about a thumb with of the tread pattern to the sidewall. When they apply the patch they use a buffing wheel to roughen the rubber so the patch will stick better. On the sidewall there is no steel belts so the buffing makes the sidewall weaker.
You would be surprised what we pulled out of tires. Wrenches, screwdrivers, billions of nails and screws, coat hangers, ball point pens.
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If you have expensive tires, the warranty that Discount / America's tires offers is well worth it. I do it for all of our work trucks and personal rigs. A couple of weeks ago my wife picked up a nail in the left front of her Mercedes. It was 1/4" too close to the sidewall. If i didn't have the $39.95 warranty, the tire would have been $420.00 to replace. :eek:
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Believe it or not it could be worse!
I work at a construction site, last month I had 4 punctures, all pierced through all the layers, all on the same tire :roflol:
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Well, these tires are old and don't have the extended warranty. GY actually didn't want to give me the extended warranty. Like I said, I bought my Interco from DT and was happy with it. I did get teh extended warranty for it as well. Problem is these tires have 40K miles on them so replacing one tire with a new one is out of the picture. All 4 need replacing which I don't have the money available for.
BTW: the screw looks to be a 1/4" wood screw. Not sure how long it is but it does leak if I move it around. It won't spin out so it's got to be fairly long with a smooth neck.
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It will be free...they are called Discount Tire here...incredible customer service. They would fix it for free even if you didn't buy the tire there....they know you'll be back then....
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Just put a patch on the inside and call it good, no reason to buy a new tire.
Even the radial plugs work fine, once these are vulcanized cut them flush with the tire.
I've plugged a offroad/onroad tire and never had a problem with it, still a patch is the preferred solution no need to change the tire
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It will be free...they are called Discount Tire here...incredible customer service. They would fix it for free even if you didn't buy the tire there....they know you'll be back then....
Well, took about 20 minutes but they took care of me. Patched the inside and it looks like there is a worm as well. Like i said the hole was from a 1/4" screw. So it holds air and was fixed for free.
I think I fixed another problem I've been having as well. I've had this squeak that only happens when the engine is warmed up and not all the time. It starts making noise when I idle long enough for the vibs to pick up. Turns out my down pipe was loose. I took out my Borla and repositioned it as well. It was hitting the crossmember when I take off hard. So if I get the seal, then the Jeep should be good. or at least drivable. There are still some small issues like a leaking pinion seal that I keep putting off...
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Well, I got a lot done today. I replaced the cowl seal with a new one. Mine was original and was falling apart on the exposed areas. This is what was letting the water in. It wasn't going behind the instrument panel though. It was going over the panel and between the plastic and soaking everything. The panel is in no danger of rusting as I sprayed it with several coats of hammerite. I did find getting everything aligned again was a PITA. Since I have a hardtop I had to readjust that as well as the doors again since the pitch of the windshield changed a bit. I chewed up a torx on the door but I was still able to adjust it without having to touch that hinge. The doors are aligned again.
I also got my adjustable thermostat that I ordered a while back. It's a $29 from Flex-a-lite. It's supposed to have a range of 180-240*. I just cranked the rheostat to on side and then started the engine. Turns out I chose the right direction as the fan turned on at around 210 or 12 o'clock on the gauge. I put the probe right under the inlet and didn't have to screw up any fins and it fit at the very top.
So hopefully, when the next rain comes, I'll be dry.
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Well, I got a lot done today. I replaced the cowl seal with a new one. Mine was original and was falling apart on the exposed areas. This is what was letting the water in. It wasn't going behind the instrument panel though. It was going over the panel and between the plastic and soaking everything. The panel is in no danger of rusting as I sprayed it with several coats of hammerite. I did find getting everything aligned again was a PITA. Since I have a hardtop I had to readjust that as well as the doors again since the pitch of the windshield changed a bit. I chewed up a torx on the door but I was still able to adjust it without having to touch that hinge. The doors are aligned again.
I also got my adjustable thermostat that I ordered a while back. It's a $29 from Flex-a-lite. It's supposed to have a range of 180-240*. I just cranked the rheostat to on side and then started the engine. Turns out I chose the right direction as the fan turned on at around 210 or 12 o'clock on the gauge. I put the probe right under the inlet and didn't have to screw up any fins and it fit at the very top.
So hopefully, when the next rain comes, I'll be dry.
is it the weather seal under the windshield frame that you replaced or the seal on the heater vent? if it's the latter i wish you would've taken some pics, i never done it and looks like an extensive job, probably have to do that too since i get water on the driver's side.
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Usually water on the driver's side has to do with a clogged drain hose from that cowl air inlet. Cleaning mine out mostly solved the water on the driver's side problem. I also had to put the vent screw in with sealant because water was also getting in through the screw holes.
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is it the weather seal under the windshield frame that you replaced or the seal on the heater vent? if it's the latter i wish you would've taken some pics, i never done it and looks like an extensive job, probably have to do that too since i get water on the driver's side.
The cowl seal sits under the windshield frame. I do have some pictures of the vent seal where it meets up with the dash.
Usually water on the driver's side has to do with a clogged drain hose from that cowl air inlet. Cleaning mine out mostly solved the water on the driver's side problem. I also had to put the vent screw in with sealant because water was also getting in through the screw holes.
I had water on the driver side, the passenger side, the middle side, everywhere behind the dash. My gauges looked like they were crying. :lol: Jeep still ran fine and all gauges still work. Love that fact.
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is it the weather seal under the windshield frame that you replaced or the seal on the heater vent? if it's the latter i wish you would've taken some pics, i never done it and looks like an extensive job, probably have to do that too since i get water on the driver's side.
Is this the seal you're talking about?
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NUT3v0pNW04/STyzYfgnfvI/AAAAAAAABrw/5TkoIZEwqyQ/1028_005.jpg)
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Is this the seal you're talking about?
i was thinking of the one right under the vent grill in front of the windshield (not the seal for the grill, but where the heater vent intake meets the sheetmetal, i thought that's what you guys were saying is leaking when it dries out due to the rain that makes it thru the grill).
So maybe that's what i need to change too (this windshield frame that you just changed).
hollllly, you really took it apart - why did you take the dash out? or it's unrelated
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i was thinking of the one right under the vent grill in front of the windshield (not the seal for the grill, but where the heater vent intake meets the sheetmetal, i thought that's what you guys were saying is leaking when it dries out due to the rain that makes it thru the grill).
So maybe that's what i need to change too (this windshield frame that you just changed).
hollllly, you really took it apart - why did you take the dash out? or it's unrelated
I've actually taken my dash apart a few times. I think that was #2. I replaced the whole 'Instrument Panel' which is the metal frame behind all of the plastic. The dash leaked (2nd time) and rusted the old instrument panel out from behind. Actually, if you're going to replace the seal around the cowl then you'll need to remove the whole dash anyway.
Oh and taking the dash apart is a good way to dust the gauges off... :lol:
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Well, I ended up redoing my switch panel today. It wasn't exactly what I wanted. I had it setup for 2 switches followed by 1 and 1 which didn't leave me room for more switches so I fixed that. Now it's 2-2-2. There isn't a a whole lot of room for switches down there though. I had to get a little creative with the positioning of the switches since I also had to make room for the switch body as well as the wiring. I think it came out ok though. I'll do a quick writeup as well as add picts of the thermostat.
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i was thinking of the one right under the vent grill in front of the windshield (not the seal for the grill, but where the heater vent intake meets the sheetmetal, i thought that's what you guys were saying is leaking when it dries out due to the rain that makes it thru the grill).
That's what seemed to be leaking on mine but it was just water getting in through the screw holes. This might save you some work.