4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: t.co10 on December 29, 2009, 09:34:11 AM
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Has anyone ran one of these? Just wondering if they are notorious for cracking like everything else.
Thanks
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Pacesetter has two reputations.
1. Great product love it works great
2. Sucks piece of junk, rusts out, heavy would never buy one again - My experience....
This comes around fairly regularly on auto forums with no resolution.
Dave
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I found one brand new in the box I can pick up for $150 bucks. My current manifold is cracked, seems like a good deal to me, if it holds up that is. If it probably will blow up I may go a different route, but I need to do something to get some pep in the Hampster.
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The cross pipe hangs way too low for Wheelin purposes. Also a header will shift your power band higher into the rpm range, keep your factory manifold.
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Pacesetter has two reputations.
1. Great product love it works great
2. Sucks piece of junk, rusts out, heavy would never buy one again - My experience....
This comes around fairly regularly on auto forums with no resolution.
Dave
i didn't find it that heavy, i think it's lighter than the stock header. not sure about the rest as i didn't actually drive the Jeep since installing it
The cross pipe hangs way too low for Wheelin purposes. Also a header will shift your power band higher into the rpm range, keep your factory manifold.
in my case ('95 YJ) is going the same route as the factory downpipe (in front of the bellhousing, behind the oil pan) - i don't think it's lower than the stock, if it is it's not that much (maybe 1/2'' tops) - if i was to do it again i would probably cut a 3/4'' off the vertical part and weld it back to keep it higher.
one thing that i was unimpressed with: there was no mount/hanger for the downpipe where it meets the cat - the factory one has a bent bar that goes to the torque mount on the transmission and basically takes the cat and piping weight off the downpipe and header - maybe this is increasing the chances of cracking the manifold so i cut the hanger off the stock downpipe and used it on the pacesetter one, seems to keep it in place better (w/o it it does tend to hang low on the passenger side).
overall it is a cheap solution and it does look cheap (welds, bends, etc) but i would say the cheapest out there for a perf header, dunno if and how much better than stock though
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I'm running one to gave me a lot more top end and also did 64mm t/b bored the intake and port matched the intake ports
my manifold was cracked to and has replaced it. was cheep as for rust it's made out of regular exhaust pipe so it will rote like any none stainless pipe I just keep painting it once and a while with high heat paint.
and it doesn't run any lower then my stock one did.
also went to high flow cat and muffler when installed. sounds really mean!!
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in regards to the support in front of that cat. since that is a solid support (no rubber) it can stress the downpipes and whatnot since that mount will not move but the motor will when accelerating. i noticed after lifting my jeep and installing a 1inch tc drop that my down-pipe is under a considerable amount of pressure because the mount at the cat forces the exhaust to lower with the transfercase... basically its a real piia to disconnect the down pipe from the manifold and more so to get it back together. im kinda liking the idea of putting a segment of flex-pipe at the end of the downpipe to re leave stress.
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(http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz239/Torch_Ind/random/SSPX0645.jpg)
also i ditched the hanger in front of the cat and haven't had any problems
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oh don't use there white gasket they send with it get a stock one. mine lasted about a month and shit out had to change it to a stock one and it's been good
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Im thinking about going 4:88's and 36's on the trails, 33's for street. My main concern is losing any low end torque. How much would it hurt my low end going with the header? Or would I even notice it?
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in regards to the support in front of that cat. since that is a solid support (no rubber) it can stress the downpipes and whatnot since that mount will not move but the motor will when accelerating.
That bracket goes into a bushing that bolts to the transmission mount. It should float. If it's not moving that's because the downpipe is holding it firm.
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in regards to the support in front of that cat. since that is a solid support (no rubber) it can stress the downpipes and whatnot since that mount will not move but the motor will when accelerating. i noticed after lifting my jeep and installing a 1inch tc drop that my down-pipe is under a considerable amount of pressure because the mount at the cat forces the exhaust to lower with the transfercase... basically its a real piia to disconnect the down pipe from the manifold and more so to get it back together. im kinda liking the idea of putting a segment of flex-pipe at the end of the downpipe to re leave stress.
like Jeffy said, that goes into a rubber bushing that is actually fairly loose. the way I fixed the prob you described when i had my tc drop was to bend that rod a little and it worked out ok (i think it's 3/8s in diameter, you'll need something to do it - one of the demolition hammer/bar combos made by stanley did it for me, but anything that you can use to leverage you work) - it doesn't take much, also consider that the angle of the cyl head is changing as well when you lower the tranny so that will tend to push the downpipe lower, so it's not just that holder/bracket that is involved there
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Im thinking about going 4:88's and 36's on the trails, 33's for street. My main concern is losing any low end torque. How much would it hurt my low end going with the header? Or would I even notice it?
Travis, you are a gear head and have connections in the gear-head world, go ahead and add a turbo and fix the computer....or swap in that Honda Civic engine you have. It probably has more power than the Jeep 2.5l.....
I'd hate to dyno mine to see what the end numbers are.
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How about the extra Civic engine and turbo that? Now where talking.............