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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: bluebomber on January 04, 2010, 05:21:02 PM
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New guy here. I just purchased a 2001 Jeep Wrangler with a 2.5L, automatic. I had to put a new motor in it but I've had a problem with the Jeep which I don't know if it started before or after the new motor. When I'm driving along, and it feels like it's going into overdrive, if I don't keep giving the Jeep a little fuel it will start to hesitate or what I would call "bucking". It's not bad enough to throw me out of the seat. I also notice some rattle going on towards the bell housing occasionally. I've completed a full service on the motor including plugs, wires, cap & rotor, TPS, IAC, and MAP sensor. The motor is still in break-in period so I'm running 15W-40W. I haven't done anything to the transmission. A list of my questions:
1.) Could it be that the torque converter is going bad?
2.) When the motor went, could it have destroyed the O2 sensor?
3.) Could it be the Crank sensor?
4.) does this transmission have an overdrive, I'm assuming it does even though the shifter label only has D, 1, 2?
5.) Is it possible to eliminate the overdrive to test?
I've heard that the converter bolts come loose??? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
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New guy here. I just purchased a 2001 Jeep Wrangler with a 2.5L, automatic. I had to put a new motor in it but I've had a problem with the Jeep which I don't know if it started before or after the new motor. When I'm driving along, and it feels like it's going into overdrive, if I don't keep giving the Jeep a little fuel it will start to hesitate or what I would call "bucking". It's not bad enough to throw me out of the seat. I also notice some rattle going on towards the bell housing occasionally. I've completed a full service on the motor including plugs, wires, cap & rotor, TPS, IAC, and MAP sensor. The motor is still in break-in period so I'm running 15W-40W. I haven't done anything to the transmission. A list of my questions:
1.) Could it be that the torque converter is going bad?
2.) When the motor went, could it have destroyed the O2 sensor?
3.) Could it be the Crank sensor?
4.) does this transmission have an overdrive, I'm assuming it does even though the shifter label only has D, 1, 2?
5.) Is it possible to eliminate the overdrive to test?
I've heard that the converter bolts come loose??? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
1. is it the engine bucking or interrupting or it's like not getting into the next gear and you can see the revs go up?
2. no, and i don't think that what you describe is related to the o2 sensor, but you never know.
3. yes, among other things (i can think of tps, map sensor, dist and rotor, spark plugs/wires/coil)
4. usually you have an o/d button or position on the lever, not familiar with the Jeep auto tranny but there are a few guys here that have one so they might be able to help
5. same as #4
if i understand the behavior correctly from what you describe i think is fuel or spark related, i don't think it's the tranny unless there's somehow something jamming in there to make it hesitate (but in that case i would guess there will be some noise associated with that) - but again i am not familiar with the auto transmission on the Jeep so someone else might have experienced this.
just a thought, i am thinking if you can replicate that with the rear axle on jackstands then you could do more troubleshooting (and in that case would maybe point towards the tranny since the engine won't be under the same load as driving on the street).
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Your jeep should not have an OD tranny, it's likely a true 3spd. What you feel may be the torque converter locking and unlocking.
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The best way I can describe it would be like a misfire. I've serviced everything in the ignition system with new parts and it has never gone away. It always happens when I'm going between 40 and 50 mph. I'm going to try to pull any codes tonight.
Bounty, do you think then that the converter may be failing??
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Your jeep should not have an OD tranny, it's likely a true 3spd. What you feel may be the torque converter locking and unlocking.
would the revs go up and down when that happens?
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To be honest, it happens so fast that I don't notice the tach jumping. It might miss three times, or it might miss several times. But it always seems to be around 40 to 50 mph. It happens when the motor is cold or hot. If I check for codes tonight and don't find any, would a good suggestion be to empty the tranny fluid and put a new filter on? Do these tranny's have a drain plug on the converter?
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OK, I scanned the codes and there weren't any present. I'm thinking about draining the transmission and changing the filter. I checked the fluid on the dipstick and it looked darker red but didn't have a burnt smell. But since I've acquired this from someone who apparently didn't take good care of it, it might not be a bad idea anyway. If the issue gets worse I'll know it either wasn't this or it's a tranny problem. I'm also going to check the cable while I'm there to make sure it's correctly adjusted to shift down when required. Sound like a plan?
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Might be the gizmo in the distributor, "cam position sensor"
I'm chasing a similar issue that I think I've narrowed down to fuel delivery but I need to pull the tank.
Dave
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How is your tranny fluid level? Check for binding on the auto trans cable at the air intake...kinking or sticking may be causing misshifts.
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Tranny fluid level was fine but I'm going to put a new filter in it this weekend hopefully. I didn't notice any burnt smell from checking the fluid on the dipstick. I might be able to get a better sniff once I empty the pan. I'll check the cable and take it for a test run this week to see if the tach jumps when it happens.
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Anybody got the torque specs for the tranny pan bolts?
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Anybody got the torque specs for the tranny pan bolts?
13ftlb/17Nm
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OK, here's the latest saga to my story. After test driving the Jeep and finding out that the RPMs don't go up when the hesitation happens, I took the Jeep to a buddy's garage because they have a lift and also more tools than I do. I had a Magnaflow catalytic converter and Borla cat back exhaust system that I had ordered put in and also changed the transmission fluid and filter while it was on the lift. We checked the fuel pressure and the reading was fine. I took the Jeep out for a test ride and the the same thing was happening. Hesitation between 40 and 50, no power going up steep hills. We disconnected the lock-up solenoid on the transmission and I took it for another run. It ran great without hesitation. Figured it was the solenoid not working. But I noticed something else. When I'm driving in the lower gears I get a new hesitation. Sporatic, not always there. My buddy also noticed that it hesitates at initial throttle. We checked everything again, fuel pressure, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, but couldn't find anything. Sprayed everyting down with water and nothing showed. He suggested that because it's a new motor that the computer may need re-flashed to take it back to stock. I'm a little unsure about doing this because that's another $100.00 and I don't even know if that's the problem. I'm getting agitated because now I don't know if I should be looking at the engine or the drivetrain.
Should I run the Jeep without the lock-up solenoid plugged in?
Could this hesitation be the transmission slipping?
Should I have the computer re-flashed?
Any suggestions?
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OK, here's the latest saga to my story. After test driving the Jeep and finding out that the RPMs don't go up when the hesitation happens, I took the Jeep to a buddy's garage because they have a lift and also more tools than I do. I had a Magnaflow catalytic converter and Borla cat back exhaust system that I had ordered put in and also changed the transmission fluid and filter while it was on the lift. We checked the fuel pressure and the reading was fine. I took the Jeep out for a test ride and the the same thing was happening. Hesitation between 40 and 50, no power going up steep hills. We disconnected the lock-up solenoid on the transmission and I took it for another run. It ran great without hesitation. Figured it was the solenoid not working. But I noticed something else. When I'm driving in the lower gears I get a new hesitation. Sporatic, not always there. My buddy also noticed that it hesitates at initial throttle. We checked everything again, fuel pressure, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, but couldn't find anything. Sprayed everyting down with water and nothing showed. He suggested that because it's a new motor that the computer may need re-flashed to take it back to stock. I'm a little unsure about doing this because that's another $100.00 and I don't even know if that's the problem. I'm getting agitated because now I don't know if I should be looking at the engine or the drivetrain.
Should I run the Jeep without the lock-up solenoid plugged in?
Could this hesitation be the transmission slipping?
Should I have the computer re-flashed?
Any suggestions?
I don't think is the computer, doesn't make sense to need a flash unless it was flashed with a different code before. can't help you with the auto transmission, i don't even know what the lockup solenoid is - but just thinking, if it was slipping wouldn't the rpm would go up when that happens?
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I think that's what sharpxmen was trying to determine. I would think that the RPMs would increase if the transmission was slipping. Not the case though. I talked to another guy about chevy auto trans and he said that they had the same problem with the lockup converter hesitating. He said that the engine had a miss and it was causing the transmissions not to lock up properly. I'm at a loss here. I'm not getting any codes to think that it is a misfire. I've checked or replaced everything I can think of but the Crankshaft sensor.
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OK, here's the latest update. I disconnected the lockup solenoid to take it to a tranny shop and had them check out the driveline. It ran like crap. They said the driveline looked fine but it felt like I had a miss somewhere. My brother and I checked the timing over the weekend and it was running around 12 degrees. I know that timing can't be set because it's computer controlled and the reading I got probably wasn't 100% accurate. We also checked the compression on #3 cylinder just to make sure that I was getting compression and it came out to about 135 pds. engine cold. We didn't check the rest because it was a PITA to get the gauge into the plug hole. I found a plug wire that wasn't crimped correctly, fixed it and the Jeep had more power, duh. I'm still occasionally getting a miss which is causing the lockup converter to not operate efficiently. Plugged the lockup solenoid back in and I ran the Jeep around the block yesterday, about 8 miles, and everything seemed fine. I dumped two bottles of gumout injector cleaner in the tank with a 3/4 tank of gas. I also checked the oil to see if there was any coolant leak and the oil looked fine. When I brought it into work this morning I let it run for about 5 minutes and then started on my journey, about 25 miles. I was OK initially but about half way here it started to miss and buck when the converter locked in. I also noticed a slight miss/hesitation in 1st and 2nd. It didn't happen all the time. My brothers friend said that it could be the fuel pump but fuel pressure has been checked by the garage that installed the motor and they said I was getting about 45 pds of pressure. It kind of leads me to believe that I may have an injector problem. I'm going to take the Jeep home tonight and check the plugs out for color. My brother has a fuel pressure gauge so I'm going to do that sometime this week. To recap:
New rebuilt engine, map sensor, plug wires, plugs, cap, rotor, TPS, IAC, Magnaflow catalytic converter, Borla cat back exhaust, Air Hog high flow air filter, two bottles of gumout in the fuel tank.
About 200 miles on the rebuilt motor.
No codes found after about 8 attempts with a scanner.
Problem: Slight sporatic miss/hesitation between 1st and Drive, rough idle when in Park and at stop.
1.) Could I have a weak fuel injector? The # 4 cylinder and head gasket went in the original engine, that's why I replaced the motor.
2.) Is there a way to check the injecters using an Ohm meter? If so, does anyone know what the resistance should be?
3.) Should I drive the jeep for a while to see if the condition changes? I only have 200 mles on it and it seems to happen only under load.
4) Is there maybe something else I should be looking at? I have no codes to go by so I'm at a loss right now.
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OK, here's the latest update. I disconnected the lockup solenoid to take it to a tranny shop and had them check out the driveline. It ran like crap. They said the driveline looked fine but it felt like I had a miss somewhere. My brother and I checked the timing over the weekend and it was running around 12 degrees. I know that timing can't be set because it's computer controlled and the reading I got probably wasn't 100% accurate. We also checked the compression on #3 cylinder just to make sure that I was getting compression and it came out to about 135 pds. engine cold. We didn't check the rest because it was a PITA to get the gauge into the plug hole. I found a plug wire that wasn't crimped correctly, fixed it and the Jeep had more power, duh. I'm still occasionally getting a miss which is causing the lockup converter to not operate efficiently. Plugged the lockup solenoid back in and I ran the Jeep around the block yesterday, about 8 miles, and everything seemed fine. I dumped two bottles of gumout injector cleaner in the tank with a 3/4 tank of gas. I also checked the oil to see if there was any coolant leak and the oil looked fine. When I brought it into work this morning I let it run for about 5 minutes and then started on my journey, about 25 miles. I was OK initially but about half way here it started to miss and buck when the converter locked in. I also noticed a slight miss/hesitation in 1st and 2nd. It didn't happen all the time. My brothers friend said that it could be the fuel pump but fuel pressure has been checked by the garage that installed the motor and they said I was getting about 45 pds of pressure. It kind of leads me to believe that I may have an injector problem. I'm going to take the Jeep home tonight and check the plugs out for color. My brother has a fuel pressure gauge so I'm going to do that sometime this week. To recap:
New rebuilt engine, map sensor, plug wires, plugs, cap, rotor, TPS, IAC, Magnaflow catalytic converter, Borla cat back exhaust, Air Hog high flow air filter, two bottles of gumout in the fuel tank.
About 200 miles on the rebuilt motor.
No codes found after about 8 attempts with a scanner.
Problem: Slight sporatic miss/hesitation between 1st and Drive, rough idle when in Park and at stop.
1.) Could I have a weak fuel injector? The # 4 cylinder and head gasket went in the original engine, that's why I replaced the motor.
2.) Is there a way to check the injecters using an Ohm meter? If so, does anyone know what the resistance should be?
3.) Should I drive the jeep for a while to see if the condition changes? I only have 200 mles on it and it seems to happen only under load.
4) Is there maybe something else I should be looking at? I have no codes to go by so I'm at a loss right now.
your Jeep should have 49psi fuel pressure, so if it's 45 that is insufficient - the shop should've known that. If that's at idle then for sure under load would go even lower.
also, you're saying one of the wires was not crimped and then you re-crimped it - i would just bite the bullet and buy a new set - should be around $20 for a generic one.
1. you might but since the fuel pressure is below required value i would check that first.
2. yes, but that would not account for a plugged or leaking injector - the Jeep injectors are high - impedance, that means they should be between 12 to 16 ohm (dunno the exact value in your case) and you should not have a difference higher than 1 ohm between them (measure all 4 if you do it). A faulty injector solenoid would trigger a CEL i believe, so i don't think that's your problem but doesn't hurt to verify. Again, if the injector is plugged or leaking or squirting it will not come out on the impedance value.
3. If you're running lean i would suggest to fix the problem first, that can affect the life of the engine so imo you shouldn't drive it like that if your pressure is below required value (but again, since you have an '01 the low fuel pressure should trigger a code, something like "unusual lean/rich afr correction factor was triggered by a rich/lean condition" or something like that)
4. I would say to make yourself a fuel pressure gauge and drive around monitoring that (just because the shop said it was at 45psi) - seems the best lead so far
have to mention that if this is auto-tranny related i have no experience with that so by no means i am excluding that possibility, all the above is just my guess on the matter.
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Thanks for the reply sharp. I agree and that's why I'm going to check the fuel pressure again when I get the gauge from my brother. He's a fork lift mechanic and knows the troubleshooting tips, I finally broke down and called him this weekend. He also keeps me from banging my head against a wall or running out and just buying parts. The garage said that the pressure was "even" throughout throttling the motor.
The wires I used were a generic brand and I was thinking about buying some Bosch pre-fit ones. I hate to waste the money on some Accel since it's such a short run. When I fixed the wire I made sure that I ran the electrode on the solid side of the terminal and clamped it down. After that the Jeep ran great. No more generics for me. I was surprised at how well it ran actually. Shifted nicely without any hesitation or miss. It had nice power throughout all shifting ranges.
I'm also going to check the resistance on the injectors tonight and report back what I found. I thought maybe an injector could be partially clogged and incorrectly supplying fuel.
I've read that some injection systems will try to make up the difference in pressure between injectors. does the injection system on the '01 2.5 have this type of setup?
Do you think that what I'm assuming is a miss is being caused by the fuel pump/filter in the gas tank?
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I had some issues with fuel recently that i couldnt figure out for the life of me. :puzzled: :brick:
I had a misfire at idle and the car was weak to say the least. It drove fine and no codes but it just wasnt right. I didnt ahve the stuttering like you but maybe because i have a 5 speed. I did however have issues going up the slightest hills and I felt the car bucking while trying to make it up...maybe you are experiencing the same thing but your computer is locking in gear to help you haul up... i wouldnt have that happen as i was the one downshifting and staying in gear revving it out to make it up.
Finally I replaced the injectors and the car feels really strong (for a 4banger at least) and the idle is now steady.
When i had these issues I had no codes, no CEL and a few mechanics weren't able to tell me what the issue was. No one pointed me in the right direction. :nono: thats why i decided to bite the bullet and start throwing parts at it. I was EXTREMELY lucky to have guessed the issue off the bat but thats usually not how it happens.
I hope this was of some help....
PS - check if you have any gas residue in your manifold. Mine used to be really moist and you can smell the gas a lot if i opened my TB after just shutting the car off.
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yeah, this a real head twister MYSTANGT because I'm not getting any codes. If I had some codes to go by it would be a lot easier. The only reason I'm thinking it's an injector is because #4 cylinder broke apart in the old engine. Maybe I'm just getting an ongoing problem from the injectors. If the fuel pressure checks out I'll probably change the injectors next. I don't know.
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if the pressure was constant at 45psi while driving it (so that means under load and wot) then it's one of 2 things:
1 - their fuel gauge is off by 4psi
2 - your fuel pressure regulator is off by 4psi (but in this case would not explain the miss and rough idle unless you go wot - o2 feedback should be able to compensate in closed loop and it could be that a CEL would not be triggered, not sure).
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I can't say that they drove it with the pressure gauge on. I'm not sure if I'll be able to either. I'll know more when I get the pressure gauge from my bro.
I checked resistance on the fuel injectors and they were 13 across the board. Am I to assume that they are good then?
I also pulled the #3 and #4 spark plug. the garage put Bosch platinums in. I wonder if that could be the problem since I checked them side by side with some Autolites specified for my vehicle and since the electrodes are of a different type they didn't reach down into the cylinder as far. the Autolites had an "L" shaped electode like the old standard and the Bosch had two short electrodes on the sides. ??
I think I'll stop by the Jeep dealer and get the equipment for a stock tun-up so I'm starting from square 1.
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I think I'll stop by the Jeep dealer and get the equipment for a stock tun-up so I'm starting from square 1.
you can do that no prob, but why not try to buy a set of recommended NGK spark plugs for $12 (or even cheaper i think) and take it from there - you'll find the correct ones in any catalog at any parts store (dealer costs will take you about $8/plug at least). up to you.
can't remember if if mentioned this in here or somewhere else: when was the last time you changed your fuel filter? if you never did and you dunno when it was changed i would just go ahead and do it prior to your fuel pressure check - that way you don't have to wonder if it's the filter or the pump if you find something (add the FPR in there as well).
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I've read that some aftermarket plugs cause misfires in different vehicles. I didn't want to use a plug that wasn't suggested by the manufacturer, I have two sets of those already.
Since the fuel pump, regulator, and filter were all in one place on these models, the tank, I was trying to avoid dropping the tank unless I knew for sure it was one of the three. If the pressure test comes up bad then I'll probably just go ahead and replace all three to get it done. I hate the idea of dropping the tank more than once. I wish they would have left it like the olden golden days and made everything accesible outside of the tank. That way you could check/change each part without the headaches of removing the tank.
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I've read that some aftermarket plugs cause misfires in different vehicles. I didn't want to use a plug that wasn't suggested by the manufacturer, I have two sets of those already.
Since the fuel pump, regulator, and filter were all in one place on these models, the tank, I was trying to avoid dropping the tank unless I knew for sure it was one of the three. If the pressure test comes up bad then I'll probably just go ahead and replace all three to get it done. I hate the idea of dropping the tank more than once. I wish they would have left it like the olden golden days and made everything accesible outside of the tank. That way you could check/change each part without the headaches of removing the tank.
i'm pretty sure you have a filter outside the tank on the driver's side ahead of the rear axle, the one in the tank is the pre-filter (also called the sock for some reason). the filter outside the tank is meant to be replaced just like the air filter and the oil filter, on a regular basis. It has more filtering capabilities than the one in the tank (the one outside is finer) and is meant to protect the fuel injectors.
I was not suggesting to use spark plugs that are not recommended by manufacturer, ngk and denso are very good plugs for the money and i have ran them in my Jeep for quite a while to be able to tell that they work 100% - chosing one from the catalog means it will be made specifically for the engine based on manufacturer specs of head length, heat range, resistivity and whatever else - but that doesn't mean there's any harm in buying from the dealer.
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Please do share if there actually is an external filter. Ive been putting away changing mine so that i can change the pump and regulator at the same time as well.
I will be extremely happy to hear that this is true! =)
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Please do share if there actually is an external filter. Ive been putting away changing mine so that i can change the pump and regulator at the same time as well.
I will be extremely happy to hear that this is true! =)
i did a quick search on google and I got mixed results - one said that is on the frame covered by piece of metal, and quite a few said that on the TJ the only filter is in the gastank (Chrysler had me on this one, what a bummer) - anyway, with about 10 to 1 in the favour of no external filter seems that I have been wrong assuming there is an external one like in tons of other efi engines - this is imo a design flaw, why in the world would you need to drop the tank to replace the filter beats me
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i did a quick search on google and I got mixed results - one said that is on the frame covered by piece of metal, and quite a few said that on the TJ the only filter is in the gastank (Chrysler had me on this one, what a bummer) - anyway, with about 10 to 1 in the favour of no external filter seems that I have been wrong assuming there is an external one like in tons of other efi engines - this is imo a design flaw, why in the world would you need to drop the tank to replace the filter beats me
TJ's have a combination fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator that sits on top of the tank.
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YJ's have the frame mounted filter below the driver area.
Just to complete the data set! :)
Dave
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TJ's have a combination fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator that sits on top of the tank.
so you need to drop the tank for that then? unless there's another way to do it that's a pretty stupid setup, i like the YJ fuel system better - not to mention the no schraeder valve on the fuel rail either. I wonder why they didn't put a access cover in the tub i that case.
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I've dropped the tank on my YJ several times, its like a 20 to 30 minute job... Not that big of a deal really.
Unless you have to do it with the tank FULL :yikes:
4 bolts for the skid plate,
lower slightly with floor jack,
Remove filler and vent hose, 2 hose clamps.
Lower more unhook hoses for breathers for vapor cap system.
Unhook fuel lines and wiring harness, its on the ground.
Dave
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From what I've read and also in my Haynes manual there is no external filter. Some engineer decided that Chrysler could make more money by forcing people to go to the dealership to get a filter change. It's the same thing on my '97 Grande Cherokee. Luckily I was able to find a friend with a lift that changed the filter on the cherokee for nothing, I've heard horror stories about paying upwards of $500.00 to do this.
I pulled the Bosch plugs last night but I have no idea of how to set the gap on them. I also noticed that sometimes there are two separate gap designations for plugs. One would be dealer recommended and the other would be manufacturer recommended. Some food for though when you gap your plugs to make sure you are using the correct one for the plug you are using.
I'm going to contact the dealership to find out what dealership cost would be on a new set of plugs/wires/cap/and rotor. I might just bite the bullet and go with that to eliminate any possibilities. I can then save the aftermarket parts for the next tune-up if this doesn't solve it. I plan on keeping this Jeep as a toy for the next 10 to 20 years.
I believe you need to relieve the fuel pressure using the schraeder valve to change the pump. Does anyone know if you need to do this just to change the filter/regulator?
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I believe you need to relieve the fuel pressure using the schraeder valve to change the pump. Does anyone know if you need to do this just to change the filter/regulator?
yes. i dunno if you have one though, in case you dont remove the fuel pump relay and start it like that, crank it a few times after it stops also - that should clear the pressure enough. Just so you don't get fuel in your eyes i would also remove the fuel line at the rail with a rag around it to make sure there is no remaining pressure in the rail.
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I have used the Echlin NAPA cap and rotor for years on my YJ, Brass instead of AL and they have never let me down.
I tried Bosche Platinum plugs and went back to Autolite. The jeep does not idle worth a hoot for me with the Bosche.
I have also found that if I buy off teh shelf wires, I get about 1 to 1.5 years at best out of them. Usually the #1 plug
wire is shot by then, or I've torn it up changing spark plugs.
Dave
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so you need to drop the tank for that then? unless there's another way to do it that's a pretty stupid setup, i like the YJ fuel system better - not to mention the no schraeder valve on the fuel rail either. I wonder why they didn't put a access cover in the tub i that case.
Nope, to check fuel line pressure you need a tool. It's just two connectors with some hose then a block with a schraeder valve on it. All the Jeeps after the YJ have the combination Fuel Pressure Regulator/Filter. It's supposed to be a no maintenance item. You have two choices, drop the tank or cut a hole in the floor.
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Nope, to check fuel line pressure you need a tool. It's just two connectors with some hose then a block with a schraeder valve on it. All the Jeeps after the YJ have the combination Fuel Pressure Regulator/Filter. It's supposed to be a no maintenance item. You have two choices, drop the tank or cut a hole in the floor.
i was asking if you need to drop the tank to change the filter - i think i can figure out you can check the fuel pressure w/o dropping the tank :lol:
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Hey jeffy, that's not a bad write-up. "How to install a fuel pump hatch on TJ Wrangler." I like it, if I get the chance this summer and decide to modify I'll take pictures. I know there are other vehicles out there that use some type of hatch. My '49 Chevy had a homebrew hatch in the drivers side floor to get to the old style master cylinder reservoir. That's when they put the reservoir down on the frame rail. I think the major consideration would be sealing the hatch to make it air tight. This way you wouldn't get exhaust fumes or fuel vapors inside the Jeep.
anybody know where I can get a Schraeder valve to make a pressure gauge with a 6 foot hose? I think my brother said that they have them on the AC recharge kit hoses.
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anybody know where I can get a Schraeder valve to make a pressure gauge with a 6 foot hose? I think my brother said that they have them on the AC recharge kit hoses.
you need an adapter that goes on the fuel line on the rail - i think it's a specialized tool or dealer item. you can make something yourself but i'll stay away from making suggestions on ghetto solutions - have a look at it, you can figure it out what you can do there but unless you will buy the propper fittings it will involve a permanent change. You don't need a schraeder valve if you make your own since once you're done measuring you can remove the gauge with the fitting and all.
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I'd likely get rid of the tank filter, and put the prior model YJ filter along the frame rail...
The first time I had to do it...
Dave
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And the test results are... ....drum roll please... .... the fuel pressure was approx. 48 to 49 psi. We checked it at idle and then I put my foot on the brake, put her in drive, and ran it up to 3k on the rpms and no change. We lost maybe, and I say maybe because the gauge was in increments of 2, one pound after 5 minutes from shutting of the engine. I would consider that pretty good. I also put my spark tester on each plug wire and watched the strobe. I noticed an erratic spark on plugs 2 and 4. I shut all the lights off in the garage at night and started the engine. I noticed a very small amount of spark grounding coming from the coil wire and #4. I put new wires on the coil and #'s 4 and 3, that's all I had time for, and we took it for a spin. It had plenty of power for a 4 cylinder, no missing, but I'm still having issues with the lockup solenoid when the transmission goes from drive to lockup. It bucks a little bit until I can get past 45 mph. I'm going to throw new wires on #2 and #1 cylinder this weekend and cover all the wires with some looming material for protection. I'm also going to call a tranny shop to see if the lockup solenoid can be tested and replaced without dropping the tranny. I'll drive it for a couple weeks to see if the lockup solenoid issue gets any worse. If it does and I can't easily fix it I'm going to either throw a switch in to keep the solenoid from locking up unless I'm on the highway or I'll just disconnect it all together. What do you guys think about these ideas?
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And the test results are... ....drum roll please... .... the fuel pressure was approx. 48 to 49 psi. We checked it at idle and then I put my foot on the brake, put her in drive, and ran it up to 3k on the rpms and no change. We lost maybe, and I say maybe because the gauge was in increments of 2, one pound after 5 minutes from shutting of the engine. I would consider that pretty good. I also put my spark tester on each plug wire and watched the strobe. I noticed an erratic spark on plugs 2 and 4. I shut all the lights off in the garage at night and started the engine. I noticed a very small amount of spark grounding coming from the coil wire and #4. I put new wires on the coil and #'s 4 and 3, that's all I had time for, and we took it for a spin. It had plenty of power for a 4 cylinder, no missing, but I'm still having issues with the lockup solenoid when the transmission goes from drive to lockup. It bucks a little bit until I can get past 45 mph. I'm going to throw new wires on #2 and #1 cylinder this weekend and cover all the wires with some looming material for protection. I'm also going to call a tranny shop to see if the lockup solenoid can be tested and replaced without dropping the tranny. I'll drive it for a couple weeks to see if the lockup solenoid issue gets any worse. If it does and I can't easily fix it I'm going to either throw a switch in to keep the solenoid from locking up unless I'm on the highway or I'll just disconnect it all together. What do you guys think about these ideas?
how did you end up hooking the pressure gauge?
so the shop that measured it the first time must've had a faulty gauge i guess.
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The gauge my brother had was designed for Schrader valves. We hooked it diredtly to the fuel rail. We de-pressurized the fuel line and hooked the gauge up. We only had about 1 foot of hose to work with so we couldn't actually drive the vehicle and check the pressure under load. That's why I put the vehicle in drive with my foot on the break and ran it up to 3k on the rpms. He watched the gauge as I was working the gas pedal. No change in fuel pressure. I think that the hesitation I was getting was from the pinhole grounding of the wires on the coil and #4 cylinder. I can't understand why the lockup solenoid decided to start acting up after the motor change. I was tempted to use some of the Lucas brand additive in the transmission but I've heard good and bad stories so I'm hesitant to try it. I don't even know if it's compatible with the Dexron 4 used in the tranny.