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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: haulincats on January 28, 2010, 07:40:08 AM
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I was driving home from work tonight in my 98 2.5 TJ auto trans with
130,000 miles and it started making a pretty loud ticking noise.
I pulled it in the garage and tried to find where it was coming from.
It sounds like it may be coming from the bottom rear part of the engine.
It gets a little louder as you increase rpms.
Where should / how should I figure what it is?
It still seems to run just fine, I only drove it about 5 miles after the noise
started. I changed the oil about 1,000 miles ago, 5w30, its still full and clean.
It still was running normal oil pressure,
It was like 20 degrees when I left work.
Thanks,
Vance
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5w30?
that maybe it. not viscious enough. try heavier oil. i run 10w30.
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I was driving home from work tonight in my 98 2.5 TJ auto trans with
130,000 miles and it started making a pretty loud ticking noise.
I pulled it in the garage and tried to find where it was coming from.
It sounds like it may be coming from the bottom rear part of the engine.
It gets a little louder as you increase rpms.
Where should / how should I figure what it is?
It still seems to run just fine, I only drove it about 5 miles after the noise
started. I changed the oil about 1,000 miles ago, 5w30, its still full and clean.
It still was running normal oil pressure,
It was like 20 degrees when I left work.
Thanks,
Vance
what's you oil pressure at idle?
i would buy a mechanics stethoscope so you can listen more precisely where it's coming from (it's about $7).
if it's ticking noise would lead to a hydraulic lifter but since you're saying it's coming from the bottom rear makes one think it's a rod bearing - but in that case you should have a low oil pressure at least at idle unless the oiling canal in your crankshaft got clogged somehow (and also would be more on the clunking side rather than ticking)
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Maybe an exhaust leak. Check to see if the rear bolt on the exhaust manifold is broken.
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Could also be loose bolts on the flexplate
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Could also be loose bolts on the flexplate
Not sure what the flex plate is.
How do I check that?
Thanks,
Vance
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Could also be loose bolts on the flexplate
yeah, good catch - missed that he's got an auto.
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Not sure what the flex plate is.
How do I check that?
Thanks,
Vance
The flexplate is like a flywheel - attaches to the back of the engine. There are 4 bolts that attach the flexplate to the torque convertor. You have to remove the inspection cover on the trans to get at them (might also have to remove the starter to get the place off, I don't remeber). Then you need to manually turn the motor so that you can get to each bolt and check it.
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[...] (might also have to remove the starter to get the place off, I don't remeber). [...]
for this purpose he might get away w/o removing the starter (i think he can get enough room to check the bolts), but you're right as far as removing it you need the starter off from what i recall.
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The flexplate is like a flywheel - attaches to the back of the engine. There are 4 bolts that attach the flexplate to the torque convertor. You have to remove the inspection cover on the trans to get at them (might also have to remove the starter to get the place off, I don't remeber). Then you need to manually turn the motor so that you can get to each bolt and check it.
I pulled the inspection cover and the 4 bolts are tight. Everything looks goodin there,
no cracks in the flywheel.
Now what should I do?
Thanks,
Vance
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I had a noise like that and it ended up being my u-joints.
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I had a noise like that and it ended up being my u-joints.
I have the noise when I'm sitting still.
Thanks,
Vance
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I pulled the inspection cover and the 4 bolts are tight. Everything looks goodin there,
no cracks in the flywheel.
Now what should I do?
Thanks,
Vance
what's you oil pressure at idle?
i would buy a mechanics stethoscope so you can listen more precisely where it's coming from (it's about $7).
if it's ticking noise would lead to a hydraulic lifter but since you're saying it's coming from the bottom rear makes one think it's a rod bearing - but in that case you should have a low oil pressure at least at idle unless the oiling canal in your crankshaft got clogged somehow (and also would be more on the clunking side rather than ticking)
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Pull plug wires one at a time, see if the noise changes when one particular wire is disconnected.
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Pull plug wires one at a time, see if the noise changes when one particular wire is disconnected.
I will try that.
I changed the oil to a 5 w 30 full synthetic, didn't make any difference.
I tried the stethoscope and could not really pin point where it was coming from.
The oil presssure is 40 at an idle and a little higher driving.
Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Vance
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Maybe an exhaust leak. Check to see if the rear bolt on the exhaust manifold is broken.
X2
My bet is exhaust leak.
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Finally had time to work on the Jeep.
Pulled the valve cover, everything looked good.
Dropped the oil pan, found part of the piston
skirt from # 2 cylinder broken off and in the bottom
of the pan. It doesn't look like it hurt the
cylinder.
So I think I'm gonna try and find another 2.5
to put in and then rebuild this one.
Your thoughts?????
Thanks,
Vance
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Finally had time to work on the Jeep.
Pulled the valve cover, everything looked good.
Dropped the oil pan, found part of the piston
skirt from # 2 cylinder broken off and in the bottom
of the pan. It doesn't look like it hurt the
cylinder.
So I think I'm gonna try and find another 2.5
to put in and then rebuild this one.
Your thoughts?????
Thanks,
Vance
imo:
since you already pulled the oil pan you might as well take the cyl head off and see what's the damage - you can get a used piston to get you by for a while and then rebuild the other engine you're getting - that way you don't have to pull the block in and out twice. all that in case the cyl is not hurt (like you said). once you have the cyl head out you can also check it to see if it's flat, if it isn't then getting the other engine installed first would be better i think.
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Your thoughts?????
Thanks,
Vance
So, your 2.5L is pretty much toast, eh? That's a shitty situation, sorry to hear it. If it were me and I had the resources I'd upgrade and go to a small V8.
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Ok i gotta pug it once then I'm going to stay out of it...
5w30 is too thin for the stock 2.5 liter. The engine main bearings and
rod bearings have too much clearance for a 5w30. In the manual
I don't think they recommend an oil that thin until like -10 F.
According to the guy that built my engine the stock clearance is right
for 10w40 or 20w50 in our normal Oregon weather, but that if I wanted to run the
new 0 or 5 weight oils He would tighten the clearances for it. He also had
doubts the stock oil pump was going to deliver without a bump in pressure with
the thinner oil. But we did a higher pressure pump so I'd have better low
rpm pressure and so far its worked great.. I had him set me up for 20w50 and
I'm now running 35lbs at idle hot ant 65 at cruise.
Dave
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imo:
since you already pulled the oil pan you might as well take the cyl head off and see what's the damage - you can get a used piston to get you by for a while and then rebuild the other engine you're getting - that way you don't have to pull the block in and out twice. all that in case the cyl is not hurt (like you said). once you have the cyl head out you can also check it to see if it's flat, if it isn't then getting the other engine installed first would be better i think.
I checked the compression before I pulled the pan,
#1- 145, #2- 145, #3- 155, # 4- 165
Which I thought was pretty good now that I see the damage to the
piston. That also makes me think the # 2 cylinder might be ok.
The engine I'm getting is "suppose" to have been rebuilt,
The guy I'm buying it from bought the Jeep 2 years ago and thats what the
previous owner told him. So I think I'm going to put that one in
and take my time (and as I get the money) and rebuild mine.
What are other thoughts on the 5 w 30 oil?
I live in northern Michigan, in the winter its 0 to 20 degrees almost
every morning.
Thanks,
Vance
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I checked the compression before I pulled the pan,
#1- 145, #2- 145, #3- 155, # 4- 165
Which I thought was pretty good now that I see the damage to the
piston. That also makes me think the # 2 cylinder might be ok.
The engine I'm getting is "suppose" to have been rebuilt,
The guy I'm buying it from bought the Jeep 2 years ago and thats what the
previous owner told him. So I think I'm going to put that one in
and take my time (and as I get the money) and rebuild mine.
What are other thoughts on the 5 w 30 oil?
I live in northern Michigan, in the winter its 0 to 20 degrees almost
every morning.
Thanks,
Vance
i use 10w30 full synthetic
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i use 10w30 full synthetic
What are your winter temps like?
What kind of synthetic and do you
use it year around?
Thanks,
Vance
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What are your winter temps like?
What kind of synthetic and do you
use it year around?
Thanks,
Vance
Mobil 1
year round
temps from 10F in the winter to about 90F in the summer.
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Mobil 1
year round
temps from 10F in the winter to about 90F in the summer.
X2...well except we don't get that cold and we get warmer in the summer. But when I lived in Denver that's what I ran. It could be -0 to 100+.