4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: countryboy15 on February 01, 2010, 07:18:54 PM
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1)ANYone ever had any experince with the JAWdropper Triple-A Twin stage Performance Fuel Optimization module aka 2N1 PERFORMANCE CHIP JEEP WRANGLER 1991-2009 +MPG off of ebay at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2N1-PERFORMANCE-CHIP-JEEP-WRANGLER-1991-2009-MPG_W0QQitemZ320481167239QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9e2a8787 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2N1-PERFORMANCE-CHIP-JEEP-WRANGLER-1991-2009-MPG_W0QQitemZ320481167239QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9e2a8787)
Does this sound like a rip off?
2)Anyone knows anything about the rugged ridge throttle body spacer for a Jeep? I can get one for $50 shipped off of amazon.
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1)ANYone ever had any experince with the JAWdropper Triple-A Twin stage Performance Fuel Optimization module aka 2N1 PERFORMANCE CHIP JEEP WRANGLER 1991-2009 +MPG off of ebay at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2N1-PERFORMANCE-CHIP-JEEP-WRANGLER-1991-2009-MPG_W0QQitemZ320481167239QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9e2a8787 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2N1-PERFORMANCE-CHIP-JEEP-WRANGLER-1991-2009-MPG_W0QQitemZ320481167239QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9e2a8787)
Does this sound like a rip off?
2)Anyone knows anything about the rugged ridge throttle body spacer for a Jeep? I can get one for $50 shipped off of amazon.
1) stay away from any chip with 2 wires (the box is actually worth more than what's inside) and the electric turbos
these eBay "chips" usually alter the IAT reading (intake air temperature) - by that it actually tells the PCM (computer) that the air is more dense than it actually is and will give it more fuel - it has about $1 worth of electronic stuff in it.
do some research though (i understand experience has something to do with the question) - one thing you can do is to download the FSM (from the FAQ on this site) and read the fuel injection section - it explains in detail how it works, how all the parts and sensors interact and will help you a lot in making decisions and how to troubleshoot problems and also on what to look for or not (EDIT: i'm not b!tchin', i am trying to help you get more info - just re-read my post and i thought might sound the wrong way, was not my intention - i read the FSM when i was researching my supercharger and a lot of things became more clear on how the Jeep injection works, previously i mostly had experience with MAF based fuel injections).
2)never used the rugged ridge one.
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That kind of reminds me of this ad: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390148197856 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390148197856)
...no they don't work...
As for the TB Spacer, check Ebay. You can find them cheaper.
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scratch the chip. I posted up here before anything because it didn't seem right to me.
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i found a throttle body spacer on ebay labeled JEEP WRANGLER THROTTLE BODY SPACER 4.0L YJ 1987-1995. Its priced at $30 + $4.85 shipping. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-WRANGLER-THROTTLE-BODY-SPACER-4-0L-YJ-1987-1995_W0QQitemZ330357916244QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4ceaddc254 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-WRANGLER-THROTTLE-BODY-SPACER-4-0L-YJ-1987-1995_W0QQitemZ330357916244QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4ceaddc254)
Thanks for all the help that i have gotten from everyone on this site within the past 2 weeks.
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i found a throttle body spacer on ebay labeled JEEP WRANGLER THROTTLE BODY SPACER 4.0L YJ 1987-1995. Its priced at $30 + $4.85 shipping. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-WRANGLER-THROTTLE-BODY-SPACER-4-0L-YJ-1987-1995_W0QQitemZ330357916244QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4ceaddc254 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-WRANGLER-THROTTLE-BODY-SPACER-4-0L-YJ-1987-1995_W0QQitemZ330357916244QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4ceaddc254)
Thanks for all the help that i have gotten from everyone on this site within the past 2 weeks.
that's good price, comes with bolts too which is nice (they're metric so if you need to buy them they're anothe $4 or so)
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That kind of reminds me of this ad: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390148197856 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390148197856)
...no they don't work...
yeah, i know - thing is that people actually buy this stuff and they swear it works.
there is (or was) a company in UK i believe that produced true electric centrifugals - the nice thing about those is that they are activated only on demand - uses a high rpm electric motor,i can't remember what the power rating for the motor was (significant anyway, nothing like the kitchen hood one) and a sophisticated way of being activated and route the pressure in the intake - not sure if that actually got in mass production, when i read about it they had some prototypes built and were looking for a car manufacturer to get a large contract - the downside i think it was that was only suitable to low displacement engines, the upside was that was only spinning once in a blue moon when you actually needed the extra HP - i do remember that it was very high tech with tight tolerances which is why was actually more expensive than a turbo or supercharger so that might have killed the product.
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yeah, i know - thing is that people actually buy this stuff and they swear it works.
there is (or was) a company in UK i believe that produced true electric centrifugals - the nice thing about those is that they are activated only on demand - uses a high rpm electric motor,i can't remember what the power rating for the motor was (significant anyway, nothing like the kitchen hood one) and a sophisticated way of being activated and route the pressure in the intake - not sure if that actually got in mass production, when i read about it they had some prototypes built and were looking for a car manufacturer to get a large contract - the downside i think it was that was only suitable to low displacement engines, the upside was that was only spinning once in a blue moon when you actually needed the extra HP - i do remember that it was very high tech with tight tolerances which is why was actually more expensive than a turbo or supercharger so that might have killed the product.
Problem is it's used like NOS and can only be used in bursts. It had three electric motors turning teh Eaton.
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Problem is it's used like NOS and can only be used in bursts. It had three electric motors turning teh Eaton.
yeah, it was only meant for quick bursts but unlike nos you didn't need to change the bottle but i think the price was not up to par for the benefits
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I am needing the following for my '91 jeep wrangler 2.5. Any Suggestions? They have to be relatively resonably priced, and I don't care if the part suggested are used type.
1)Disributor cap
2)front Leaf Springs- 0" lift
3)shocks-0" lift
4)spark plugs
5) 8mm spark plug wires
6)rotor
7)radio
8)radiator
9)thermostat
10)stronger alternator
11)battery
AND POSSIBLY...
-good quality driveshafts
-front dash speakers
-skid plates
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I am needing the following for my '91 jeep wrangler 2.5. Any Suggestions? They have to be relatively resonably priced, and I don't care if the part suggested are used type.
1)Disributor cap
2)front Leaf Springs- 0" lift
3)shocks-0" lift
4)spark plugs
5) 8mm spark plug wires
6)rotor
7)radio
8)radiator
9)thermostat
10)stronger alternator
11)battery
Are you going for performance mods or OEM/factory replacement?
As for the stereo, the best thing to do is go to your local Target and buy one of their MP3/WMA-CD Sony X-Plod headunits. They cost around $100. They're pretty good. I've been using the same one in multiple vehicles for almost four years now. They even come with a remote. We just recently bought one to go in my mom's Eclipse and it works and sounds great. Well... I also replaced all the speakers with high-quality stuff all the way around, so that helps. Still, they're good headunits.
-front dash speakers
Best solution? Just disconnect them. There really aren't any good speakers to replace those with. You can buy replacements from most of the big car audio companies (Kenwood, Alpine, etc.) but they're all expensive (because the size isn't very common) and they all pretty much sound like crap compared to better speakers in better sizes. You can only get so much out of such a small speaker.
Instead, step one -- buy or fab some modpods:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/14136_03.htm
They go over the center hump right up against the firewall. They will fit if you have a manual transmission. Any 5.25" speakers will fit, giving you much better options for the same or less money. You can also buy a set with decent speakers included from Quadratec.
Step two -- if you have a domelight bar with speaker cutouts, get some speakers to go in it. They are usually 4.5" or 5". Again, much better options. If you don't have a domelight bar or it doesn't have speaker cutouts, you can buy one of these:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/14119_0XX_PG.htm
Alternatively, you can buy or fab a pair of these for the back:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/14031_5X_PG.htm
Those enclosures are nice, because they use space that was already there but practically unusable before. They even add cupholders in the back. They accept 6x9" speakers, which are made by a million different brands and good ones can be bought cheap. And again, you can buy a pair with decent speakers already included.
Then, all you need is some 8-guage and 14-gauge wire with a terminal washer, an in-line fuse, and a big roll of speaker wire (aka a stereo wiring kit.) You can buy a kit already put together at any car audio store, or you can buy the stuff separately from your local auto parts store (this is the best option, you almost always save money.) Don't worry, this stuff is cake to wire up in a Jeep.
Total estimated cost for everything, including some midrange (as in price/quality, not sound range) speakers, and the Sony headunit I mentioned earlier would be around $400.
If you wanted to go the extra mile, you could spend an extra $100 or so and get a six-speaker setup. Two fronts in the modpods, two rears in the rear enclosures, and two front/rear splice in the domelight bar. That way you've got good sound coming from in front, above, and behind, and it will fade nicely from front to back. And don't worry about splicing the speakers this way, it won't cause any problems. The headunit's onboard amplifier will handle it just fine unless you've got some really high quality competition-level speakers that draw insane wattage.
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Are you going for performance mods or OEM/factory replacement?
I don't really if its performance or not. And thanks for the help and advice.
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I am needing the following for my '91 jeep wrangler 2.5. Any Suggestions? They have to be relatively resonably priced, and I don't care if the part suggested are used type.
1)Disributor cap
2)front Leaf Springs- 0" lift
3)shocks-0" lift
4)spark plugs
5) 8mm spark plug wires
6)rotor
7)radio
8)radiator
9)thermostat
10)stronger alternator
11)battery
AND POSSIBLY...
-good quality driveshafts
-front dash speakers
-skid plates
If you get the PD kit it comes with wires (10mm) cap,rotor and a real hot coil. You can buy them seperate to save a bit of money. The kit comes with some billet wire looms. I didn't use them.
http://www.performancedistributors.com/jeep.htm
For a battery I would go with a dry cell like a Optima or Oddessy 1200.
1-800-radiator has some good deals on some all metal rads 2 core or 3 core.
For 0 lift springs Full Traction is the only place I know of that makes them. (spring over) They also have shocks...I think.
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Thanks. I was wondering why those PD wires were so expensive being that I thought they were 8mm wires(for some reason).
Anyone knows the specs for the Jeep Screamin' Demon Coil by PD? I just wondering if its a lot better than the msd ignition coil my jeep came with.
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Thanks. I was wondering why those PD wires were so expensive being that I thought they were 8mm wires(for some reason).
Anyone knows the specs for the Jeep Screamin' Demon Coil by PD? I just wondering if its a lot better than the msd ignition coil my jeep came with.
your msd is more than you need, imo you should save your money and keep that one. if you end up buying the PD kit i might be interested in buying the msd one from you.
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your msd is more than you need, imo you should save your money and keep that one. if you end up buying the PD kit i might be interested in buying the msd one from you.
I am defintiely going to buy the livewires spark plug wires and maybe distributor cap &rotor kit. The MSD thing is just the coil pack and you are proably right about keeping the msd igniton coil. If you are interested in The MSD ignition, I seen some MSD igniton coils and ignition systems at my local autozone and they look just like what I have on my jeep. I think the previous owner did some rigging to wire it up (I think its the the blaster 2 coil). (Another Plus for autozone is they have that customer reward system, that gives you a free $20 for every $100 you spend at their store)
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I am defintiely going to buy the livewires spark plug wires and maybe distributor cap &rotor kit. The MSD thing is just the coil pack and you are proably right about keeping the msd igniton coil. If you are interested in The MSD ignition, I seen some MSD igniton coils and ignition systems at my local autozone and they look just like what I have on my jeep. I think the previous owner did some rigging to wire it up (I think its the the blaster 2 coil). (Another Plus for autozone is they have that customer reward system, that gives you a free $20 for every $100 you spend at their store)
The PD coil lets you gap the plugs to .065. They said to get some Autolite so that's what I got.
Not sure what the MSD coil allows you to open the gap to.
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I checking on the specs through an email to PD. The specs I am talking about is the Coil Specs
This is the MSD coil specs which I have in my jeep already
Turns ratio: 100:1
Primary resistance: .7 OHMs
Secondary resistance: 4.5K OHMs
Inductance: 8 mH
Maximum voltage: 45,000 Volts
Peak current: 140 mA
Spark duration: 350 uS
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I checking on the specs through an email to PD. The specs I am talking about is the Coil Specs
This is the MSD coil specs which I have in my jeep already
Turns ratio: 100:1
Primary resistance: .7 OHMs
Secondary resistance: 4.5K OHMs
Inductance: 8 mH
Maximum voltage: 45,000 Volts
Peak current: 140 mA
Spark duration: 350 uS
PD igntion coils all are rated at 45000 volts under load.
I am definitely keeping my MSD coil since itegual to all PD coils for a jeep, but note I am going with the livewires because of the fact that they are 10mm wires. Thanks on the advice on these.
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I'm not a fan of performance enhancer products cause most of doesn't really work...
They are only good at advertisements that will make you believe that it is effective but its not...
Spark is spark. One ignition system doesn't produce a better spark than the next ignition system. Some just do it faster, more predictably, and with better timing.
I wouldn't exactly say that MSD is misleading people. It's not going to add horsepower on it's own but it will allow you to get your engine tuning and timing much more exact, which could add horsepower.
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There are other tricks one can do to take advantage of hotter coils. Widening the gap will cause a larger spark which will help in a more efficient combustion. I believe MSD uses multi-sparks so the spark duration is longer to help scavenge more HP. Clipping the spark plug electrode is also an old trick. Then there is indexing the spark plug so the open end of the spark plug is facing the valves...
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No matter who's ignition box you buy, most can do multi-spark to 3500 rpm max.
I've O-scoped the stock coil system and then we swapped out 3 other boxes and coils
and none of them gave a substantial change(power wise), but all the multi sparc systems
idled better and had better cruising manners. (MSD, Crane, Jacobs) At crawling speeds
they seem to help response.
Too much spark can be a bad thing, it can arc to the piston top if you go too crazy...
Bad things happen if this occurrs...
Dave
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I installed the PD setup yesterday on my TJ. The thing was popping and bucking like it was running really lean. I pulled the plugs and re-gaped them to .040 and it ran better no popping... But I did a search on here for running lean. I found out the spedo needed re-calibrated after the bigger tires were put on. I knew it was off about 1 mile in every 6.5 as thats how far it is home from the gas station I've been getting gas at for about 30 years...
So I ordered up my new gear and will re-gap the plugs again... So the coil and everything does burn the gas better, as it wasn't way to lean until after I gaped the plugs. It did pick up power under full throttle, it just wouldn't cruse without popping... also put on my 4.0 TB today, so after I get my gear in it might just make some power...
I knew the hotter coil setup would work as I've been doing that to my HD's and cars for about 40+ years... ;)