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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Sine Deviance on February 22, 2010, 12:33:43 PM
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I've got some noise coming from my valvetrain under heavy load. It's rattling, sounds kinda like marbles in a blender. Right now I'm looking for a top engine additive to maybe clear out some of that gunk that could be in there causing the rattling. I was wondering if you guys have any recommendations?
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That's how the 4 bangers sound, not much you can do about it.
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Ya sine ,mine sounds like that too.Switched to synthetic and no diff.
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That's how the 4 bangers sound, not much you can do about it.
Ya sine ,mine sounds like that too.Switched to synthetic and no diff.
There's always a cause for valvetrain noise, it is not 'by design.' No valvetrain is supposed to sound like this. I can guarantee you that if you bought a brand-new AMC150 valvetrain and swapped it on your engine, your valvetrain noise would be gone. As your valvetrain ages from use, things get worn out or gunked up or out of adjustment, and you get rattling as a result. Rattling in the valvetrain is a sign that something is amiss, be it low oil pressure, gunk in the hydraulic lifters, incorrect lifter preload, worn lifters, gunk in the rocker arms, incorrect rocker arm adjustment, incorrect valve lash, imperfect valve seats, spark knock (aka detonation) and etc.
My oil pressures are dead-on normal according to the local Jeep dealer service department, so I'm going to bypass that possibility and go straight to gunk. If the additives don't help I'll go to new hydraulic lifters, and if those don't help, new valves/springs and possibly a new rocker arm assembly. Somewhere down the line the rattling will go away. I just figured I'd start with some top-end gunk treatments because that's the cheapest option for a possible fix. In a situation like this, you always try the cheapest possibility first, then move up to the next cheapest, and so-on.
So, once again... any top engine additive recommendations?
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There's always a cause for valvetrain noise, it is not 'by design.' Rattling in the valvetrain is a sign that something is wrong, be it low oil pressure, gunk in the hydraulic lifters, incorrect lifter preload, gunk in the rocker arms, incorrect rocker arm adjustment, incorrect valve lash, spark knock (aka detonation) and etc. No engine is supposed to sound like this. If the additives don't help I'll go to new lifters, and if those don't help, new valves and possibly a new rocker arm assembly. I just figured I'd start with some top-end gunk treatments because that's the cheapest option for a possible fix. You always try the cheapest possibility first, then move up.
So, once again... any top engine additive recommendations?
Ever listened to a brand new 2.5L - seriously. I've been around jeeps for a long time, and there are some noises that are just common to them from the day they are born.
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There's always a cause for valvetrain noise, it is not 'by design.' Rattling in the valvetrain is a sign that something is wrong, be it low oil pressure, gunk in the hydraulic lifters, incorrect lifter preload, gunk in the rocker arms, incorrect rocker arm adjustment, incorrect valve lash, spark knock (aka detonation) and etc. No engine is supposed to sound like this. If the additives don't help I'll go to new lifters, and if those don't help, new valves and possibly a new rocker arm assembly. I just figured I'd start with some top-end gunk treatments because that's the cheapest option for a possible fix. You always try the cheapest possibility first, then move up.
So, once again... any top engine additive recommendations?
you're right - it shouldn't. I have one lifter (i think) that makes noise when cold and goes away (or makes less noise) once it warms up. I don't experience what you describe under heavy load but to what the other guys said the 4 banger is not the most silent engine either - i am guessing by what you say that the noise is not the normal operating noise of the engine. I don't think an additive would make a big difference (or any for that matter) - i think replacing the lifters is the way to go, they are quite cheap and can be done in an afternoon if you have everything ready. But again, if you're just thinking that the engine is noisy (and not actually related to lifters and for that matter rocker to valve backlash) it's not much you can do - "thicker" oil can quiet that down a bit, but there are trade-offs if you go that route.
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Ever listened to a brand new 2.5L - seriously. I've been around jeeps for a long time, and there are some noises that are just common to them from the day they are born.
You know... now that I'm thinking about it, you're probably right. I just remembered that Jeep engines run lean from the factory. It could be pinging that I'm hearing and not valvetrain rattle.
I don't think an additive would make a big difference (or any for that matter) - i think replacing the lifters is the way to go, they are quite cheap and can be done in an afternoon if you have everything ready. But again, if you're just thinking that the engine is noisy (and not actually related to lifters and for that matter rocker to valve backlash) it's not much you can do - "thicker" oil can quiet that down a bit, but there are trade-offs if you go that route.
Now I'm thinking I need to try bigger injectors first to rich out the mix a little. If it's pinging that I hear, that should help a little. I think it's finally time for me to buy a set of those FoMoCo 19# injectors.
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You know... now that I'm thinking about it, you're probably right. I just remembered that Jeep engines run lean from the factory. It could be pinging that I'm hearing and not valvetrain rattle.
Now I'm thinking I need to try bigger injectors first to rich out the mix a little. If it's pinging that I hear, that should help a little. I think it's finally time for me to buy a set of those FoMoCo 19# injectors.
if you hear constant pinging (and not random knocking/pinging) i would be very concerned as it can damage your pistons and chamber. The 19# Ford injectors flow less than the stock ones at the YJ fuel rail pressure.
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The 19# Ford injectors flow less than the stock ones at the YJ fuel rail pressure.
Link please.
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if you hear constant pinging (and not random knocking/pinging) i would be very concerned as it can damage your pistons and chamber.
Unfortunately, I don't know for certain if what I'm hearing is pinging or valvetrain rattle. I only hear it under heavy load, like WOT in 5th gear or driving up a hill.
The 19# Ford injectors flow less than the stock ones at the YJ fuel rail pressure.
Link please.
Same, please. I was under the impression that the 19# FoMoCo Design-III injectors were a drop-in upgrade for us.
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Ever listened to a brand new 2.5L - seriously. I've been around jeeps for a long time, and there are some noises that are just common to them from the day they are born.
Yup, even new, they sound the same. Tick*tick*tick... It's par the course for an Inline OHV engine.
As for FoMoCo injectors it's 17.3psi vs 17.4psi, very marginal difference.
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As for FoMoCo injectors it's 17.3psi vs 17.4psi, very marginal difference.
Yes but isn't it a difference of flow rate? ~16.5lb/hr factory as opposed to ~18.25lb/hr with the FoMoCo injectors?
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Yes but isn't it a difference of flow rate? ~16.5lb/hr factory as opposed to ~18.25lb/hr with the FoMoCo injectors?
it's 18.25lb/hr at 43.5psi, your Jeep runs at 39psi so at that pressure flows less - it's been covered many times with both Bosh and Ford part numbers come to the same flow.
it is marginal difference, my point is you won't be richer once you install them but slightly leaner (minimal though)
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Yes but isn't it a difference of flow rate? ~16.5lb/hr factory as opposed to ~18.25lb/hr with the FoMoCo injectors?
it's 18.25lb/hr at 43.5psi, your Jeep runs at 39psi so at that pressure flows less - it's been covered many times with both Bosh and Ford part numbers come to the same flow.
it is marginal difference, my point is you won't be richer once you install them but slightly leaner (minimal though)
the stock one is 17.4lb/hr at 39 psi
Ford 19# Bosch 0-280-155-700 or 710 (can't find the Ford P/N) are rated at 18.25lb/hr at 43.5 psi - resulting flow at 39 psi is 17.28 lb/hr (you can go here and put in the numbers http://www.csgnetwork.com/fiflowcalc.html - there are many online calculators or you can use the formula from the FAQ section).
Link please.
Same, please. I was under the impression that the 19# FoMoCo Design-III injectors were a drop-in upgrade for us.
a good list of injectors and their rated flows:
http://www.justfuelinjectors.com/servlet/the-template/efiflowchart/Page#BOSCH_FORD
Unfortunately, I don't know for certain if what I'm hearing is pinging or valvetrain rattle. I only hear it under heavy load, like WOT in 5th gear or driving up a hill.
probably pinging by the sounds of it, so scratch all i said about the lifters, you should def downshift when you hear that what rpm are we talking about?
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BTW: for a cleaner try Sea Foam. You can use it for cleaning just about everything.
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doesn't it make the thing smoke like crazy?
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doesn't it make the thing smoke like crazy?
Only if you're adding it to the intake.
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... Stuff about injectors ...
Ahh. Now I understand, thanks. I'll check the list. Are all of those a drop-in replacement for us, or would they need harness/intake mods?
probably pinging by the sounds of it, so scratch all i said about the lifters, you should def downshift when you hear that what rpm are we talking about?
All ranges. It could happen at 1500 RPM or 4000 RPM. It only happens when I put heavy load on the engine. For example, I can sit in my driveway in neutral and rev up to 4000 RPM and hold it, and I won't hear anything. But when I'm out driving and the engine actually has the weight of the Jeep on it, I can hear it easily anytime I give lots of throttle and it's in a higher gear (3rd gear and up usually.)
If I am getting pinging, is it because the mixture is too lean? I'm running a 4.0L TB and the intake in my sig. No other performance mods. She's definitely getting more air than stock. If I need to rich out the mixture a little how can I go about doing this easily? I know I could retard the timing a little but don't I have to reprogram the PCM to do that?
Thanks for any input you might have on this sharpxmen. I need to get this problem taken care of ASAP because my Jeep really needs to be reliable right now.
BTW: for a cleaner try Sea Foam. You can use it for cleaning just about everything.
It's safe to pour some into the crankcase? And if so, how much should I use? Thanks Jeffy!
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Ahh. Now I understand, thanks. I'll check the list. Are all of those a drop-in replacement for us, or would they need harness/intake mods?
All ranges. It could happen at 1500 RPM or 4000 RPM. It only happens when I put heavy load on the engine. For example, I can sit in my driveway in neutral and rev up to 4000 RPM and hold it, and I won't hear anything. But when I'm out driving and the engine actually has the weight of the Jeep on it, I can hear it easily anytime I give lots of throttle and it's in a higher gear (3rd gear and up usually.)
If I am getting pinging, is it because the mixture is too lean? I'm running a 4.0L TB and the intake in my sig. No other performance mods. She's definitely getting more air than stock. If I need to rich out the mixture a little how can I go about doing this easily? I know I could retard the timing a little but don't I have to reprogram the PCM to do that?
Thanks for any input you might have on this sharpxmen. I need to get this problem taken care of ASAP because my Jeep really needs to be reliable right now.
It's safe to pour some into the crankcase? And if so, how much should I use? Thanks Jeffy!
there are a few things that can cause pinging - one is like you said the mixture too lean - but that is the cause of the cause :lol: - what it does it is actually increasing the temp in the chamber and causes the mixture to autoignite. the other reason is too high advance - now in this case it is not much you can do to retard the timing, you can change the position of the crank sensor but just a little bit as you don't have much room (so you need to move it the same direction as the engine rotates). there can be another reason that your igntion advance does not match the operating parameters of the engine and that is the IAT sensor - if that is faulty it can cause the PCM to think that the air is cooler than it actually is and therefore advance the spark more than needed to for a complete burn, and if it is hotter air than measured thru the IAT would cause pinging (hotter air would cause the mixture to burn faster). Another reason for detonation and pinging is heavy deposits in the chamber with 2 results: higher comp ratio and also deposits being hot and also not allow the chamber to be cooled fast enough would cause the mixture to autoignite
one thing i could suggest is to try a set of spark plugs 1 or even 2 numbers cooler than recommended - i can look it up tomorrow evening and see what i bought for my s/c setup (i got 2 numbers cooler) or you can do a search online (EDIT: the colder the plugs the faster they remove the heat from the chamber, the spark plugs actually help transferring out the heat after the ignition and detention process of the 4 stroke cycle - i think it's called detention but i am drawing a blank here so if i messed up i am talking about the expansion of the gases and the movement of the piston away from the cyl head)
can't speak for seafoam, never used it.
that list of injectors was not for Jeep, it's a list of P/Ns and flows, but if you find something that works you can def use it - keep in mind that you need high impedance and EV1 type connector (although if they are high imp you can still use them even with a different connector but you'll need pigtails). Don't go more than 10% more than stock on the resulting flow (for 39 psi fuel pressure).
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there are a few things that can cause pinging - one is like you said the mixture too lean - but that is the cause of the cause :lol: - what it does it is actually increasing the temp in the chamber and causes the mixture to autoignite. the other reason is too high advance - now in this case it is not much you can do to retard the timing, you can change the position of the crank sensor but just a little bit as you don't have much room (so you need to move it the same direction as the engine rotates). there can be another reason that your igntion advance does not match the operating parameters of the engine and that is the IAT sensor - if that is faulty it can cause the PCM to think that the air is cooler than it actually is and therefore advance the spark more than needed to for a complete burn, and if it is hotter air than measured thru the IAT would cause pinging (hotter air would cause the mixture to burn faster). Another reason for detonation and pinging is heavy deposits in the chamber with 2 results: higher comp ratio and also deposits being hot and also not allow the chamber to be cooled fast enough would cause the mixture to autoignite
Okay... I'll check my O2 and IAT sensors. If this is a fuel delivery or cylinder temp problem, I'm thinking I'd rather just correct the problem instead of retarding the timing to offset it.
I noticed today that after driving for a while and letting the engine get completely up to temp the pinging seemed to have went away. It came back when the engine was cold again. But there's still a ticking noise when I give it heavy throttle even when the engine is warmed up.
one thing i could suggest is to try a set of spark plugs 1 or even 2 numbers cooler than recommended - i can look it up tomorrow evening and see what i bought for my s/c setup (i got 2 numbers cooler) or you can do a search online (EDIT: the colder the plugs the faster they remove the heat from the chamber, the spark plugs actually help transferring out the heat after the ignition and detention process of the 4 stroke cycle - i think it's called detention but i am drawing a blank here so if i messed up i am talking about the expansion of the gases and the movement of the piston away from the cyl head)
Yeah, if you can recommend me some colder plugs that'd be awesome! I'm willing to try anything. Thanks!
that list of injectors was not for Jeep, it's a list of P/Ns and flows, but if you find something that works you can def use it - keep in mind that you need high impedance and EV1 type connector (although if they are high imp you can still use them even with a different connector but you'll need pigtails). Don't go more than 10% more than stock on the resulting flow (for 39 psi fuel pressure).
Okay.
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Okay... I'll check my O2 and IAT sensors. If this is a fuel delivery or cylinder temp problem, I'm thinking I'd rather just correct the problem instead of retarding the timing to offset it.
I noticed today that after driving for a while and letting the engine get completely up to temp the pinging seemed to have went away. It came back when the engine was cold again. But there's still a ticking noise when I give it heavy throttle even when the engine is warmed up.
Yeah, if you can recommend me some colder plugs that'd be awesome! I'm willing to try anything. Thanks!
i agree - definitely try to fix the problem rather than messing with the crank sensor.
it's usually the other way around, should be pinging more when it gets hotter, so might still point towards the IAT and good call on the O2 as well.
just thinking here - it's a long shot though - but this can also happen if your PCM stays in closed loop (not going in open loop) which can be caused by erroneous readings off the TPS and/or MAP - just a thought in case you exhaust all the other avenues. i'll look for the NGK spark plugs p/n this evening when i get home.
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It's safe to pour some into the crankcase? And if so, how much should I use? Thanks Jeffy!
Go find a can and read the instructions. Most people use some in the intake, then pour some into their crank case then if there is some left over it goes into the tank. You will want to follow the instructions.
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i agree - definitely try to fix the problem rather than messing with the crank sensor.
it's usually the other way around, should be pinging more when it gets hotter, so might still point towards the IAT and good call on the O2 as well.
just thinking here - it's a long shot though - but this can also happen if your PCM stays in closed loop (not going in open loop) which can be caused by erroneous readings off the TPS and/or MAP - just a thought in case you exhaust all the other avenues. i'll look for the NGK spark plugs p/n this evening when i get home.
Well, I am running a brand-new PCM. I wonder if it needs to be flashed or something? I don't think that's the problem because my idle and such are spot-on, but who knows? I'll keep the TPS and MAP in mind as possibilities.
Go find a can and read the instructions. Most people use some in the intake, then pour some into their crank case then if there is some left over it goes into the tank. You will want to follow the instructions.
Ahh, so there are actually instructions on the can. Okay, thanks.
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Unfortunately, I don't know for certain if what I'm hearing is pinging or valvetrain rattle. I only hear it under heavy load, like WOT in 5th gear or driving up a hill.
I have that sound too and I thought it was my PVC going nuts due to my blow bye. maybe I am hearing what you hear.
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I think you should look into it. Mine has valve train noise at idle but at WOT there is no way I could ever hear it with all the other noise (wind, exhaust, tire growl, etc).
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Nitrous: http://www.nitrousdirect.com/domesticnitrouskits.html. :lol:
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Nitrous: http://www.nitrousdirect.com/domesticnitrouskits.html. :lol:
Hahahahahaaaaa no.
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Hahahahahaaaaa no.
ah come on now.... :biggrin:
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I've been doing more research and a lot of what I'm seeing says to try cleaning the MAF first to get rid of the ticking under acceleration. What should I clean it with?
ah come on now.... :biggrin:
Hey, since I'm currently worried about my engine exploding, nitrous would just be a great idea!
/sarcasm
:biggrin:
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I've been doing more research and a lot of what I'm seeing says to try cleaning the MAF first to get rid of the ticking under acceleration. What should I clean it with?
Hey, since I'm currently worried about my engine exploding, nitrous would just be a great idea!
/sarcasm
:biggrin:
there's no MAF on your Jeep (mass air flow - measures the air flow going into the engine). We have a MAP (manifold air pressure) and the system is called speed density (if i recall correctly) - uses the MAP, TPS and IAT to determine the amount of air going in.
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there's no MAF on your Jeep (mass air flow - measures the air flow going into the engine). We have a MAP (manifold air pressure) and the system is called speed density (if i recall correctly) - uses the MAP, TPS and IAT to determine the amount of air going in.
Ah, I thought we did have the MAF. No biggie.
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there's no MAF on your Jeep (mass air flow - measures the air flow going into the engine). We have a MAP (manifold air pressure) and the system is called speed density (if i recall correctly) - uses the MAP, TPS and IAT to determine the amount of air going in.
think it's rather MAP, RPM and IAT (not TPS)
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I've used Auto-RX engine cleaner on several vehicles and swear by the stuff. Running it in the Jeep right now. It takes a few thousand miles for the whole procedure but the motor is smoother already.
www.auto-rx.com (http://www.auto-rx.com)
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Nitrous: http://www.nitrousdirect.com/domesticnitrouskits.html. :lol:
Yeah, its great for uphill on-ramps when you're working on merging your 4Banger with traffic going by at 75mph :lol:
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one thing i could suggest is to try a set of spark plugs 1 or even 2 numbers cooler than recommended - i can look it up tomorrow evening and see what i bought for my s/c setup (i got 2 numbers cooler) or you can do a search online (EDIT: the colder the plugs the faster they remove the heat from the chamber, the spark plugs actually help transferring out the heat after the ignition and detention process of the 4 stroke cycle - i think it's called detention but i am drawing a blank here so if i messed up i am talking about the expansion of the gases and the movement of the piston away from the cyl head)
I checked NGK's parts lists and there is apparently only one series of plug they make that fit our 2.5L's; the FRx-1 V-Power series. From what I see here, the FR5-1 is the OEM equivalent, so I'm going to try some FR7-1's. Those would be two steps colder.
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I checked NGK's parts lists and there is apparently only one series of plug they make that fit our 2.5L's; the FRx-1 V-Power series. From what I see here, the FR5-1 is the OEM equivalent, so I'm going to try some FR7-1's. Those would be two steps colder.
that's what i was looking for too, but i could not find FR7 so i got a set of FR6
i also bought a set of BPR7ES but i did not test them yet so i can't speak of how they work (they're not the recommended ones). let me know if you find the 7s as i would like to buy a set as well.
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let me know if you find the 7s as i would like to buy a set as well.
Will do!
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Sea Foam is a great internal cleaner as well as combustion chamber.
For daily running I run quality synthetic and I use a bottle of Techron just before I'm ready for a oil change.
Everybody has their voodoo... :)
Dave
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More info on spark plugs. Auto Zone doesn't carry any NGK plugs for our 2.5L's. They carry nothing in the FRx-1 series. They can order the FR5-1's from NGK but at $4 a plug and it'd take a few days for them to get here. They can't even order any of the colder plugs.
I'm gonna call NGK this week and see if I can order from them direct. I know they have an online distributor at ngk.com.
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More info on spark plugs. Auto Zone doesn't carry any NGK plugs for our 2.5L's. They carry nothing in the FRx-1 series. They can order the FR5-1's from NGK but at $4 a plug and it'd take a few days for them to get here. They can't even order any of the colder plugs.
I'm gonna call NGK this week and see if I can order from them direct. I know they have an online distributor at ngk.com.
check summitracing.com
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check summitracing.com
seems that ZFR7F is closer to the FR5-1 than the ones i got (BPR7ES) - it is v-power, 5/8'' wrench (as opposed to the BPR which is 13/16), same reach and as the FR it is extended projected tip (the BPR is listed only as projected tip).
i used the advanced tuner search on NGK website
http://www.ngk.com/search_char.asp?threadSize=14mm&hexSize=5%2F8%22+%2816mm%29&gap=&seatType=Gasket&terminalType=&heatRange=7&reach=19mm+%283%2F4%22%29&resistor=yes&action.x=61&action.y=11
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seems that ZFR7F is closer to the FR5-1 than the ones i got (BPR7ES) - it is v-power, 5/8'' wrench (as opposed to the BPR which is 13/16), same reach and as the FR it is extended projected tip (the BPR is listed only as projected tip).
i used the advanced tuner search on NGK website
http://www.ngk.com/search_char.asp?threadSize=14mm&hexSize=5%2F8%22+%2816mm%29&gap=&seatType=Gasket&terminalType=&heatRange=7&reach=19mm+%283%2F4%22%29&resistor=yes&action.x=61&action.y=11
i found this and might order 4 - at 1.99/plug it's ok even if they fail :)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380084512032
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Sorry to drag this one up from the dead, but I am curious to know what you (Sine Deviance) ended up doing with this.
Thanks.
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The best additive is a V8!
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Sorry to drag this one up from the dead, but I am curious to know what you (Sine Deviance) ended up doing with this.
Thanks.
No problem. Believe it or not, the noise wasn't coming from the engine at all. It SOUNDED like pinging or valvetrain rattle, but it was actually the dust cover that bolts onto the bellhousing. I'll explain. Before I started having this problem I replaced my clutch. After driving it for a while the noise started. It had been at least a couple weeks since the clutch so I didn't think they were related.
After this thread, one day I started getting some very bad vibration when pulling out in first gear. I instantly thought "transmission is loose!" so I decided to crawl up under the Jeep and check the bellhousing bolts to make sure everything was still tight. They weren't. There were two or three bolts that had somehow managed to work their way loose, and a few of the bolts for the dust cover somehow got broken and fell out. The dust cover was only being held by one bolt and the transmission wasn't bolted up tight, so the dust cover was basically flapping in the wind at this point. That was where the sound was coming from.
I held up the dust cover and tightened all the bellhousing bolts. The sound went away and hasn't been seen since :biggrin:
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You're lucky that dust cover made noise then.
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You're lucky that dust cover made noise then.
Why is that? I would have still looked because of the vibrations on takeoff anyway.
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Thats funny. I had the same thing happen to me a while back. I had to rebuild my transmission (should have swapped out for something better) and I had a horrible noice underneath about a week later. Scared the crap out of me until I figured out that is all that it was.
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You should use top engine cleaner. Pull the vacuum hose off the brake booster, have some body rev the motor up so i doesent dye and suck the top engine cleaner up the vacuum line. You will know it is going through because there will be alot of white smoke out yourf tail pipe. Dont use the hole bottle, you can hydrolock the motor. Rev it up a couple times until it will idle on its own. Then shut it off and let sit for about an hour, the go drive it to blow it out. my 2.5 has a head and new valves and it is still noisy but not like it was. It will help the performance also.
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You should use top engine cleaner. Pull the vacuum hose off the brake booster, have some body rev the motor up so i doesent dye and suck the top engine cleaner up the vacuum line. You will know it is going through because there will be alot of white smoke out yourf tail pipe. Dont use the hole bottle, you can hydrolock the motor. Rev it up a couple times until it will idle on its own. Then shut it off and let sit for about an hour, the go drive it to blow it out. my 2.5 has a head and new valves and it is still noisy but not like it was. It will help the performance also.
this technique is risky imo, you shouldn't suck in any liquid into the cylinders - but just my opinion
if you pull the booster hose it wont die unless is carbed or uses a MAF sensor, for Jeeps with a MAP will rev up due to more air being let into the intake and less vacuum read by the MAP sensor (same as with opening the throttle).
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A product called Seafoam is commonly used.
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there's a difference between pouring or spraying in a small quantity and sucking into the intake, but to each his own - just a heads up to watch for bent connecting rods or cracked cylinder head or even damaged pistons afterwards. if you get more liquid into the cylinder than the volume of the compression chamber you're in for some fun, if it's less than that would probably be ok.
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I dont know what ya'll are hearing in your motors, mine has 155,000 miles on it, and even before the roller rockers the engine was quite. so if your hearing valve train noise there's issues. i pulled a rocker assembly off my 92 and found a bent rocker bridge from over revving. i would pull the valve cover and check the valve lash. push rods should not move up and down, only able to spin.