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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: jfrabat on March 28, 2010, 09:13:50 AM
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OK, guys, I need some of your expertise: does the 95.5 booster use the spacer or not? It seems I will not have enough space between the master and the airbox if I use the spacer but since I have not measured the rod that connects to the pedal, I was wondering how those of you that have done the conversion have gone about this issue...
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OK, guys, I need some of your expertise: does the 95.5 booster use the spacer or not? It seems I will not have enough space between the master and the airbox if I use the spacer but since I have not measured the rod that connects to the pedal, I was wondering how those of you that have done the conversion have gone about this issue...
i don't think you can use the old style MC with the 95.5 booster (i might be wrong but that's what the guy at the wrecker's told me when i bought mine, could be that he just wanted me to buy the MC as well). the 95.5 MC is shorter so overall will fit. the spacer (i assume you mean the one connecting the booster to the firewall) - you need that, i have not seen an install writeup that doesn't use it, i think you'll have some clearance issues if you try to use one with no spacer (and probably be looking maybe at a different booster rather than shortening the rod) - not sure but i think the clutch MC is in the way and could be other things as well.
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I think i'll try the stock master with the 95.5 booster and see how that goes (I'll remove the airbox to try it). If it works, I may relocate the airbox a bit forward, or do something along those lines (there is one bottle attached to the radiator that may get in the way; I think it was the PS, but not sure, which I may have to relocate as well...)
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I don't remember if all '95.5's had the old master or the new one. I think it may have been the new one though. Still you shouldn't have to replace it if you don't want to. The booster will need the spacer. This is why you cannot use the TJ booster on a YJ, as the clutch reservoir is right behind it and prevents flush mounting. Relocating the box forward a bit would probably be the easiest way to do it. You could then replace the elbow with a longer one.
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I don't remember if all '95.5's had the old master or the new one. I think it may have been the new one though. Still you shouldn't have to replace it if you don't want to. The booster will need the spacer. This is why you cannot use the TJ booster on a YJ, as the clutch reservoir is right behind it and prevents flush mounting. Relocating the box forward a bit would probably be the easiest way to do it. You could then replace the elbow with a longer one.
I'll try it with the old master first; if it works (I'll roll the Jeep forward with the engine out and see if I can stop it with the brake; if THAT works, I'll try running the engine and stopping it that way, starting at slow speeds and working my way up), I'll get to work on relocating the airbox forward a bit. I'll need to replace the hose that goes from the valve cover to the airbox (mine is taped together anyway, so this is not at all bad), and find a way to extend the elbow to the TB (I was thinking along the lines of using a flex tube similar to what the snorkel brings, but I dont rememebr if the TB and airbox have the same outside diameter). I do hope this fixes all my braking issues...
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If you're vacuum hose is cracked them it very well may be leaking. You're still running your airbox so you should still have enough vacuum in the intake so that's probably not an issue. The booster will work with either MC, that shouldn't really be an issue.
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If you're vacuum hose is cracked them it very well may be leaking. You're still running your airbox so you should still have enough vacuum in the intake so that's probably not an issue. The booster will work with either MC, that shouldn't really be an issue.
It's not the vacuum hose that is cracked; it's the hose that goes from the airbox to the valve couer...
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It's not the vacuum hose that is cracked; it's the hose that goes from the airbox to the valve couer...
Oh that's the Fresh Air Vent hose. It's black hard plastic. Mine's cracked on the end that's shoved into the rubber FAV fitting. That's not crucial really.
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I'll try it with the old master first; if it works (I'll roll the Jeep forward with the engine out and see if I can stop it with the brake; if THAT works, I'll try running the engine and stopping it that way, starting at slow speeds and working my way up), I'll get to work on relocating the airbox forward a bit. I'll need to replace the hose that goes from the valve cover to the airbox (mine is taped together anyway, so this is not at all bad), and find a way to extend the elbow to the TB (I was thinking along the lines of using a flex tube similar to what the snorkel brings, but I dont rememebr if the TB and airbox have the same outside diameter). I do hope this fixes all my braking issues...
measure the rod that goes in the master (distance from the mounting surface on the booster to the tip of the rod) - i think that is one of the differences - i can't remember what it was, either too long (your MC won't get more fluid and also possibly locking the brakes) or too short (you won't get enough braking travel out of the MC).
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measure the rod that goes in the master (distance from the mounting surface on the booster to the tip of the rod) - i think that is one of the differences - i can't remember what it was, either too long (your MC won't get more fluid and also possibly locking the brakes) or too short (you won't get enough braking travel out of the MC).
Actually, the current booster, in my opinion, has a rod that is too long for the master (at least it seems that way at first glance). In any case, I'll test it after Easter, and we'll see. If it DOES work, I need to decide where to put the power steering bottle will be move to. I am currently thinking either the fan shroud or making abracket to move it...
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Actually, the current booster, in my opinion, has a rod that is too long for the master (at least it seems that way at first glance). In any case, I'll test it after Easter, and we'll see. If it DOES work, I need to decide where to put the power steering bottle will be move to. I am currently thinking either the fan shroud or making abracket to move it...
maybe a piece of angle to move it 90 deg - the fan shroud would work as long as you can find a spot that can be bolted on vertically
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maybe a piece of angle to move it 90 deg - the fan shroud would work as long as you can find a spot that can be bolted on vertically
There's a good spot right next to where the bottle is right now; what I am not sure is if the ford taurus shroud will be strong enough to hold it in the long term. I like the angle idea, though; let me measure it up and try that one as well...
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Well, it seems like the 95.5 booster is actually not compatible with the 94 master, so I purchased a used 95.5 master. The rod from the booster to the master is not the same length, and it's easier for me to just get the new master than fabricating the rod (which is possible, by the way).
Seems I will need to follow this route:
I swapped in the '95 booster and master.
It actually made a really big difference.
Since it is all stock, it was pretty easy w/out any fabbing.
The only thing I needed was adapters to go from my brake lines to the new master.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/c_zielsdorf/Car%20Pics/Jeep%20Wrangler/IMG_1016.jpg)
My '92 MC has a front fitting that is 5/16, the rear is 1/4 and uses inverted flare fittings.
The '95 uses a M12 on the front, and a M10 on the rear with bubble flare fittings.
So, not only do you have to change the fitting size, you have to change the fitting type.
It would be easiest if a one piece adapter existed, but I can't seem to find one.
SO, on the '95 master, I am using 3 fittings on one and 2 on the other. It works, but is pretty ugly.
Here is a quick'n'dirty install:
This project goes better if you bench bleed the MC before installation.
The booster studs are different on the '95 than on my '92. Make sure you get the correct nuts before starting! Oddly enough, the '92 spacer/booster nuts worked on the '95 booster/MC studs. I only needed new booster/spacer nuts.
Remember to chock your wheels!
Okay, with the adapters, MC, and booster in hand I started the project.
Start inside the cab, looking up at the pedal/pushrod union.
The pedal on my '92 had an odd retaining clip for the push rod.
Pop this loose and wiggle the rod off the pedal.
Unbolt the MC from the booster and gently move it aside without damaging the brake lines.
On my '92, I did not have to unbolt the spacer from inside the cab. I just unbolted the booster from the spacer.
I needed to remove the airbox, and unplug the vacuum line from the booster.
The old booster pulled out pretty easily.
The new '95 booster came with a boot installed on the push rod, so I discarded the old '92 protective cover.
Before sliding the booster flush to the spacer, go into the cab and line up the push rod with the pedal to prevent any binding.
The new booster slid onto the spacer with a little persuading. The studs are larger, but go in without any hassle. I was prepared to drill out the spacer holes, but did not need to.
After checking alignment with the pedal, push the booster the rest of the way in. Go into the cab and slide the push rod onto the pedal, reinstall the retaining clip.
Tighten the nuts on the booster to spacer.
I then installed the adapters on my bench bled '95 MC.
Unbolt the brake lines from the old MC.
Carefully bend the lines over from the passenger side to the new drivers side location for the new MC.
Loosely thread the lines into the adapter on the new MC.
Install a new MC to booster seal. My booster came with a new seal.
Carefully install the new MC onto the booster, taking care that the pushrod slides into the MC.
The studs are a different size than the '92 so install and tighten the new nuts.
You should now be able to do any final tweaking of the brake lines.
Tighten the brake lines and top off the MC with DOT 3 fluid.
Reinstall the vacuum line to the new booster, and the airbox.
Go back into the cab and contort yourself to get a good view of the pedal, pushrod, and sensor switch.
On the '92 pull/push the threaded switch toward the pedal until there is contact with the pedal and switch "button".
My brake lights stayed on after this swap and I needed to adjust the switch.
After testing the brakes at a VERY slow speed and verifying that there were no leaks I took it for a spin.
Everything seems fine.
I am going to let the brakes gravity bleed over night.
If there is any air in the line (squishy pedal) I will bleed them.
I will comment on the effectiveness of this swap after driving it for a few days.
So, there is a breakdown of the install.
I am sorry I didn't have any pics. I had to do this at 10 at night to keep my apartment manager from griping at me.
This little project took me about 45 minutes.
Tools I recommend are a good set of flare wrenches and racheting end wrenches (the space between the booster spacer and firewall pretty tight).
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So, I installed the new setup, but stll the brakes are crappy... They are actually worse, in fact. I have not bled them yet, but I doubt it will fix THAT much the brakes. also, I think my boosteer spacer is wider than stock, as the brake lights stay on all the time; Im thinking of using a set up like the old system (with threads) to adjust for this.
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So, I installed the new setup, but stll the brakes are crappy... They are actually worse, in fact. I have not bled them yet, but I doubt it will fix THAT much the brakes. also, I think my boosteer spacer is wider than stock, as the brake lights stay on all the time; Im thinking of using a set up like the old system (with threads) to adjust for this.
Bleed them, then report back. Bleeding should help a bunch.
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So, I installed the new setup, but stll the brakes are crappy... They are actually worse, in fact. I have not bled them yet, but I doubt it will fix THAT much the brakes. also, I think my boosteer spacer is wider than stock, as the brake lights stay on all the time; Im thinking of using a set up like the old system (with threads) to adjust for this.
is the pedal soft and going way down or hard? did you replace the MC - in that case you should bleed them. the dual diaphragm should be better but don't expect miracles (won't put you thru the windshield).
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So, I installed the new setup, but stll the brakes are crappy... They are actually worse, in fact. I have not bled them yet, but I doubt it will fix THAT much the brakes.
You didn't bleed the system but you're reporting their crappy? You need to get all of the air out of the system or else they will be crappy, it's a given. Once you have everything adjusted and properly bleed, they should be fine. Remember to bleed from the passenger rear first, then teh driver rear then the passenger then last the driver side.
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Well, I did not have time to bleed them (the wife was going to a baby shower, and the kids needed tending to), but I will. But what I have is basically:
1. Mushy pedal feel
2. Pedal goes all the way to the floorboard
3. If you keep the pedal down, you can feel the brakes loosing grip
4. The stop lights stay on even when the pedal is not touched
My plan is to bleed the brakes during the week, and start from there. I will probably take the booster to the guys that fixed the old one, and weld some threads to the pedal pushrod, and use the old connector so that I can adjust the pedal travel (so that the lights will come off). Then I will adjust the pushrod that goes into the master so that it pushes a bit more (right now it's threaded all the way in; maybe a few turns out will fix the issues).
Regarding the fittings, I had to replace both of the ones that go into the master. One if them I could not find the exact fitting, so I'm using an adapter, but it's working and it is not leaking (the one without the adapter was the one that took a couple of tries to get it to stop leaking, but it is not leaking anymore). Here's a couple of shots of how it looks now with the new master and booster:
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/jfrabat/Jeep/DSC03233.jpg)
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/jfrabat/Jeep/DSC03237.jpg)
Here are the fittings:
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/jfrabat/Jeep/DSC03236.jpg)
Here's a shot of the troublesome fitting (I took it off an dput it back on 4 times; I thought I would have to replace it, but it seems to be holding on fine now:
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/jfrabat/Jeep/DSC03234.jpg)
Anyway, I'll report after I bleed the brakes....
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Of all of my wasted time on the internet you are the only one I see with the 95.5 drama..lol good luck amigo
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Well, I just found out yesterday how much under pressure I am to get this fixed, as there is a wheeling trip this coming Saturday! I'll bleed the brakes tonight, take the booster off, and adapt a thread to use the threaded pedal connector from the old booster.
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So the 95.5's booster doesn't have a threaded rod for the master side?
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So the 95.5's booster doesn't have a threaded rod for the master side?
For the master side, yes. For the pedal, no. I have to adjust the master side, but I need to bleed the brakes first to see how it feels. The reason I want to thread the pedal side is so that I can adjust the travel and the brake lights dont stay on all the time. I could also adjust the button on the back, but I prefer to thread the rod on the pedal side so that the brake pedal and the clutch pedal sit at the same height (if I adjust the button, then the brake will be a bit lower than the clutch, and it just feels weird driving it like that, especially since this is no longer a daily driver).
By the way, one question; I assume there is A LOT of air in the system, since I took the old master out and put in a new one (and the new one was empty of brake fluid, so it's even worse), but if I bleed the front brakes only, will that get rid of all the air, or will I need to bleed the rear brakes as well? The reason I ask is because I have brake bleeders (http://www.quadratec.com/products/56202_101.htm) on the front, making that operation a one man deal, but I never got them for the rear, which means I need to ask someone to get on the cap and press the pedal for me... I wish I had gotten one of these type (http://www.brakebleeders.com/) of pressure systems to bleed the brakes while in the US!
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For the master side, yes. For the pedal, no. I have to adjust the master side, but I need to bleed the brakes first to see how it feels. The reason I want to thread the pedal side is so that I can adjust the travel and the brake lights dont stay on all the time. I could also adjust the button on the back, but I prefer to thread the rod on the pedal side so that the brake pedal and the clutch pedal sit at the same height (if I adjust the button, then the brake will be a bit lower than the clutch, and it just feels weird driving it like that, especially since this is no longer a daily driver).
By the way, one question; I assume there is A LOT of air in the system, since I took the old master out and put in a new one (and the new one was empty of brake fluid, so it's even worse), but if I bleed the front brakes only, will that get rid of all the air, or will I need to bleed the rear brakes as well? The reason I ask is because I have brake bleeders (http://www.quadratec.com/products/56202_101.htm) on the front, making that operation a one man deal, but I never got them for the rear, which means I need to ask someone to get on the cap and press the pedal for me... I wish I had gotten one of these type (http://www.brakebleeders.com/) of pressure systems to bleed the brakes while in the US!
Hmm, strange that the pedal to booster rod isn't adjustable.
As for bleeding, you need to do all of them in the correct order to make sure there is no air in the lines.
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For the master side, yes. For the pedal, no. I have to adjust the master side, but I need to bleed the brakes first to see how it feels. The reason I want to thread the pedal side is so that I can adjust the travel and the brake lights dont stay on all the time. I could also adjust the button on the back, but I prefer to thread the rod on the pedal side so that the brake pedal and the clutch pedal sit at the same height (if I adjust the button, then the brake will be a bit lower than the clutch, and it just feels weird driving it like that, especially since this is no longer a daily driver).
By the way, one question; I assume there is A LOT of air in the system, since I took the old master out and put in a new one (and the new one was empty of brake fluid, so it's even worse), but if I bleed the front brakes only, will that get rid of all the air, or will I need to bleed the rear brakes as well? The reason I ask is because I have brake bleeders (http://www.quadratec.com/products/56202_101.htm) on the front, making that operation a one man deal, but I never got them for the rear, which means I need to ask someone to get on the cap and press the pedal for me... I wish I had gotten one of these type (http://www.brakebleeders.com/) of pressure systems to bleed the brakes while in the US!
front and rear brake circuit are independent and separate, so it won't work.
there's couple of ways you can do it, one would be with a hose in a jar with fluid in it, have the hose on the bleeder just barely open and pedal away, works better if the jar is elevated compared to the bleeder and the hose as short as possible. keep the pedal down for 2 to 5 seconds after each pressing - you will still have to do a final bleed , you could use a piece of wood to keep the pedal down, then go in the back and tighten the bleeder, release the brake pedal, losen the bleeder and repeat the process a 5-6 times. it's pain work but you would eventually get them air free.
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Hmm, strange that the pedal to booster rod isn't adjustable.
i have the same one and there's no adjustment, pulled it out myself so that's just the way they made them.
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i have the same one and there's no adjustment, pulled it out myself so that's just the way they made them.
It's also strange that it would need adjustments, if the pedals are YJ.
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It's also strange that it would need adjustments, if the pedals are YJ.
My booster was not stock, so it is possible the spacer is not the same as the stocker, which would explain the need for the rod to the pedal to be adjustable (the original one I replaced in Miami also was not threaded to the pedal, and I gave that one away - complete with spacer - when I moved out of Miami).
As for bleeding, you need to do all of them in the correct order to make sure there is no air in the lines.
So what was the correct order? I'm being lazy here, as I am sure it's on either the Chilton or Haynes, but both of those are in a box somewhere in my house! (probably faster to look it up on the FSM, which I have in digital form)
As for the bleeding, I also have the brake bleeders for the back; I just never got around to installing them, and I have NO CLUE where I left them, so IŽll look for them, and if I find them, I'll install them and do a propper bleeding. If not, I guess one of the maids will have to do the pedal honors (oh, yeah, did I mention it's about $200 a month for a live in maid here?) :stick: :wall:
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When I replaced my rear brake cylinders I just let it gravity bleed. It worked really well. I did do a final bleeding using the pedal (just to make sure...the brakes were working fine) but it did not make any difference. So gravity bleeding can work amazingly well and it is low effort!
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When I replaced my rear brake cylinders I just let it gravity bleed. It worked really well. I did do a final bleeding using the pedal (just to make sure...the brakes were working fine) but it did not make any difference. So gravity bleeding can work amazingly well and it is low effort!
How do you gravity bleed them? Open the fittings and let them drip out? Excuse the ignorance, I just have not tried this before...
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So what was the correct order? I'm being lazy here, as I am sure it's on either the Chilton or Haynes, but both of those are in a box somewhere in my house! (probably faster to look it up on the FSM, which I have in digital form)
As for the bleeding, I also have the brake bleeders for the back; I just never got around to installing them, and I have NO CLUE where I left them, so IŽll look for them, and if I find them, I'll install them and do a propper bleeding. If not, I guess one of the maids will have to do the pedal honors (oh, yeah, did I mention it's about $200 a month for a live in maid here?) :stick: :wall:
You want to bleed the longest lines first then work your way in. Passenger side rear, Driver side rear, passenger side front, driver side front. Make sure the reservoir never runs dry.
You might also look into getting a Mity Vac. These make bleeding brakes a breeze. You can suck fluid through the lines without having to have someone pump the brakes.
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How do you gravity bleed them? Open the fittings and let them drip out? Excuse the ignorance, I just have not tried this before...
Yes, just open them a bit and let them drip for hours.
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Yes, just open them a bit and let them drip for hours.
Kind of a slow way to do it though. Vacuum gun would be a lot faster.
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Kind of a slow way to do it though. Vacuum gun would be a lot faster.
you can use a bicycle pump and reverse the piston gasket inside
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You want to bleed the longest lines first then work your way in. Passenger side rear, Driver side rear, passenger side front, driver side front. Make sure the reservoir never runs dry.
You might also look into getting a Mity Vac. These make bleeding brakes a breeze. You can suck fluid through the lines without having to have someone pump the brakes.
will doit this way then...
I looked for those, but the cheapest one was an industrial one with dual cylinders that was over $300... WAY over my needs!
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I have one like this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947058000P?vName=Tools&cName=Auto&MechanicsTools&sName=Auto%20Specialty%20Tools&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a
Problem is, the rubber valve isn't working properly anymore. So it neither sucks nor blows. They sell repair kits which is nice.
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OK, bled the brakes today, and there defenetly seems to be more bite to the brakes now. Of course, I also forgot to unhook the brake pedal, so the brake lights stayed on for a whole day and I ended up draining the battery, so it's not like I can start the Jeep and test them! :brick: Anyway, I left the battery charging, and tomorrow night I'll take down the booster, and take it to the guys that welded the old one for me so that they can weld some threads to the end, and I will use the pedal connector from the old booster to adjust pedal travel so that it sits at the correct height (and turns off the brake lights!).
As a side note, I also took apart the Audiovox Cruise Control, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it. Hopefully, it will work now, and I will have cruise control for the 16 hour drive back to Panama... If not, I am seriously considering ordering a new one, as my right foot was REALLY aching when I got here from Panama!
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You could always use a brick attached to a string to hold it down :wall:
As a side note, I also took apart the Audiovox Cruise Control, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it. Hopefully, it will work now, and I will have cruise control for the 16 hour drive back to Panama... If not, I am seriously considering ordering a new one, as my right foot was REALLY aching when I got here from Panama!
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Is the new booster on it's spacer or did you make a new one. I think you mentioned that you got rid of your original one. I'm just curious to how much adjusting if any was required to fit the booter to the pedal.
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Is the new booster on it's spacer or did you make a new one. I think you mentioned that you got rid of your original one. I'm just curious to how much adjusting if any was required to fit the booter to the pedal.
I replaced the OEM one with a new (non OEM) one some years ago thinking that my booster was the cause for my crappy brakes. That new one was different from the OEM one more than one way, but worked (at least as good as the OEM one) until a few weeks ago when it broke. I never did measure to see if the spacer was the same as the OEM one, and it seems it is not, as the 95.5 one is a bit off on the pedal length.
Unfortunately, I cannot copare them any longer, as I gave many of my spare parts away when I moved out of Miami (looking at the prices of things around here, I kind of regret that decision!).
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I replaced the OEM one with a new (non OEM) one some years ago thinking that my booster was the cause for my crappy brakes. That new one was different from the OEM one more than one way, but worked (at least as good as the OEM one) until a few weeks ago when it broke. I never did measure to see if the spacer was the same as the OEM one, and it seems it is not, as the 95.5 one is a bit off on the pedal length.
Unfortunately, I cannot copare them any longer, as I gave many of my spare parts away when I moved out of Miami (looking at the prices of things around here, I kind of regret that decision!).
What's the length of the new spacer?
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I just did this swap to a freinds YJ last month and he had thbe same issues.
Brake lights staying on.
-You need to adjust the plastic sensor that controls this, it's under the dash up on the padal assembly. You need to push it towards the pedal a click or two, and yes there isn't much room down there! :eek:
Pedal going to floor.
You need to adjust the Booster rod that goes into the master cylinder. The new system has a different pedal stroke, so naturally you'll need to adjust (just like with the brake light sensor). There's a rod in the master that needed to be adjusted "out" on the one that I did for the pedal to have a normal stroke again. Be sure not to over adjust, it will cause your brakes to be slightly applied while driving! :mad:
I think that about covers it?
Jake :tea:
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I just did this swap to a freinds YJ last month and he had thbe same issues.
Brake lights staying on.
-You need to adjust the plastic sensor that controls this, it's under the dash up on the padal assembly. You need to push it towards the pedal a click or two, and yes there isn't much room down there! :eek:
Pedal going to floor.
You need to adjust the Booster rod that goes into the master cylinder. The new system has a different pedal stroke, so naturally you'll need to adjust (just like with the brake light sensor). There's a rod in the master that needed to be adjusted "out" on the one that I did for the pedal to have a normal stroke again. Be sure not to over adjust, it will cause your brakes to be slightly applied while driving! :mad:
I think that about covers it?
Jake :tea:
What master did you use?
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Sorry for the late reply; we were launching 3D TV's in Costa Rica yesterday, and things were a little chaotic... Luckily, it all turned out fine.
What's the length of the new spacer?
I have not measured it yet, but I can get around to it if you want...
What master did you use?
95.5
I just did this swap to a freinds YJ last month and he had thbe same issues.
Brake lights staying on.
-You need to adjust the plastic sensor that controls this, it's under the dash up on the padal assembly. You need to push it towards the pedal a click or two, and yes there isn't much room down there! :eek:
I did not want to go this route for 2 reasons; (1) it's frikking hard for a 6'5" guy to fit himself in that tiny little space! and (2) the pedal would then end up lower than the clutch pedal, which I just did not like.
Pedal going to floor.
You need to adjust the Booster rod that goes into the master cylinder. The new system has a different pedal stroke, so naturally you'll need to adjust (just like with the brake light sensor). There's a rod in the master that needed to be adjusted "out" on the one that I did for the pedal to have a normal stroke again. Be sure not to over adjust, it will cause your brakes to be slightly applied while driving! :mad:
Actually, this had more to do with the bleeding; I bled the brakes, and now the pedal is fine. I knew bleeding made a difference, but I did not think it would be THIS much of a difference! Chalk it up to inexperience, I guess...
Anyway, this is the route I took:
- Put some threads on the booster and use the connector from the previous booster to the pedal so that it is adjustable at the pedal end.
- Used the 95.5 master so that I did not have to relocate the airbox, which also meant relocating the power steering fluid bottle.
- Used new fitings on the brake lines going into the master.
- Bled the brakes
- Kept the vacuum reservoir I already had installed for the booster
Now it's working properly. As far as improvement, I can feel some improvement, but I wish it would have been more. I DID find when bleeding the brakes, though, that the passanger side front caliper does not flow as easily as the other 3 brakes on the Jeep, so I still need to check the lines and see why this is happening. This could be the source of my issues if the passanger side caliper is grabbing less than the other 3 brakes...
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did you do anything different with the attachment/ strength of the threaded rod than on the last booster so this doesn't start all over again.
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did you do anything different with the attachment/ strength of the threaded rod than on the last booster so this doesn't start all over again.
Well, somewhat, to be honest. What I did is that (1) the thread area is considerably shorter on this one than the old one, and (2) I did not tighten the lock nut nearly as much; just enough for it to prevent from coming loose on me. Other than that, not much different.
I still need to check the lines to see why the pass side caliper is harder to bleed than the rest (maybe a line is bent wrong, or a line is clogged; I dont yet know), as I think this is why the brakes are not up to my standards.