4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: macmac on April 24, 2010, 11:16:41 AM
-
I have 1994 Wrangler that i have replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders. The issue is that if I crank the engine, then press the clutch, it will not go into gear. If I press the clutch, then crank the engine, it goes into gear fine. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
-
if you replaced those 2 and bleed it properly and if everything is stock (meaning you did not replace the clutch disk or pressure plate or the slave pushrod) it might be that the pressure plate is busted.
the pushrod has a piece of plastic at the end pushing in the fork - is that still there?
-
The plastic piece is still on the end. What doesn't make sense is that if I push the clutch before I crank the engine it works fine. Once the trans is spinning the it doesn't disengage?
-
Maybe a bad pilot bearing?
-
I have 1994 Wrangler that i have replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders. The issue is that if I crank the engine, then press the clutch, it will not go into gear. If I press the clutch, then crank the engine, it goes into gear fine. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
What was wrong with the original master and slave? Since that was recently changed, I'd suspect something there first.
Does it go into gear with the engine off?
Is the problem with just 1st gear or can you shift into 2nd or any other for that matter?
-
Is the problem with just 1st gear or can you shift into 2nd or any other for that matter?
x2
-
was there any adjustment on the mastercylinder? the rod going to the master cylinder might have an adjustment.
If the only thing you did was replace the master and slave without touching anything on the clutch side then this is strictly a hydraulic issue. However the slave cylinder is inside the bellhousing. In some cases during installation of the transmission, some installers accidently bend a fingure on the pressure plate.
there's no adjustment on the rod, the hydraulic master/slave will auto adjust by the pressure plate pushing back onto the release bearing, if it's bled correctly will take 3 or 4 pedals and will be ready to go.
i'm pretty sure the '94 has an external slave, so no need to remove the tranny to replace it.
-
I replaced the slave cylinder first because of the original problem of not going into gear. This did not fix the issue so I went ahead and replaced the master cylinder, which did not fix the issue. I feel like its in the throw out bearing, but don't understand why you can crank the engine with the pedal pressed and it goes into gear fine. Crank the engine then press the clutch and it won't go into gear.
-
I replaced the slave cylinder first because of the original problem of not going into gear. This did not fix the issue so I went ahead and replaced the master cylinder, which did not fix the issue. I feel like its in the throw out bearing, but don't understand why you can crank the engine with the pedal pressed and it goes into gear fine. Crank the engine then press the clutch and it won't go into gear.
that behavior is typical when you have a problematic pressure plate - it would release but just barely, once you start the engine it will not release the clutch disk enough to permit the synchro to slow the gears down - when you start it in gear is already engaged so it would allow the clutch to slip (same as when you press the clutch half way). Could also be like you said the t/o bearing, the fork or the fork rest at the opposite side of the slave push rod.
you might be able to look at the pressure plate action by removing the inspection cover and using a small mirror, not sure if there's enough room, if there isn't then you could remove the starter and look thru there - you should clearly see the pressure plate moving away from the disk and releasing it - i don't know if you would see the fork and t/o bearing from there but if you do you can evaluate if the pressure plate is not releasing or if the fork is not moving forward.
-
all of this happen'd right after the installation of new slave and master cylinders? if nothing was touched with the clutch the clutch fork could also bend...
He said it was a pre-existing condition. I'd suspect it's something to do with the internal clutch workings.