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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: aka-justin on April 29, 2010, 09:06:04 PM
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Just was thinking about other axle setups and thought I'd get some perspectives and as others may be interested.
Thanks,
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I pulled my axle shafts to replace them with alloy shafts, and they were a failure waiting for the inappropriate time. Driver shaft was bent, yes, bent, and the splines twisted; Pass. shaft OK, but the bearing started dropping rollers as soon as it cleared the race. I replaced the shafts a week before going to Moab... In Moab on the Tip Over Challenge (Hell's Revenge), I blew a front driver U-joint bad enough to take out a shaft ear (made the obstacle!!). 2.5 banger, 4.88 gears, locker in back, TruTrac in front, and 33" tires.
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Both D35 shafts at once :yikes: stock gears (4.11) 31's with a lockrite. 2nd run with the lockrite.
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Both D35 shafts at once :yikes: stock gears (4.11) 31's with a lockrite. 2nd run with the lockrite.
you should have gotten a truss :wall:
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you should have gotten a truss :wall:
:roflol: Maybe that would have helped the R&P not blow up too a few years later :pot:
I broke the shafts back in 96 or 97. They did not have any of the stuff they have now days.
I'll stick to my :guns: and say don't spend a dime on a D35 and upgrade. (to the OP)
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The only time any driveline part has failed on my Jeep was a u-joint for which the straps had not been tightened enough. This was with 30" tires everything stock. I think a lot of u-joint breakage is due to a failure to check the torque on u-joints before going out on the trail. Another near failure was due to the u-joint u-bolts getting spun on a rock. Luckily I got out of the spot before it got too bad.
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I checked the Knock on Wood box. However, I am probably going to need a new clutch before too long. I've been nursing it for 10 years, but it seems to have faltered a little more lately. Not to hijack, but what do you guys like for replacement 4banger clutches?
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was a knock on wood but have to go with the internal slave dieing on me 2x (was leaking when got jeep, then bleeder decided to come out of slave cylinder when trying to stop at a stop sign).... thanks for reminding me of that Chrisfranklin :brick: :brick:..
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I checked the Knock on Wood box. However, I am probably going to need a new clutch before too long. I've been nursing it for 10 years, but it seems to have faltered a little more lately. Not to hijack, but what do you guys like for replacement 4banger clutches?
O.E. or something made by Luk.
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ran up to 33's stock gears but didn't like the power or loosing a gear. went to 4.88's and a rear locker haven't broke yet!!!
have only blown engine and trans from water intake
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Ford 8.8, Detroit on 35's. Sprung the yoke on the flange adapter and the U-joint went all splodey. That's the only true driveline breakage I've had thus far.
Knock, knock!
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I wasted a CV joint due to much axle droop, still drove it home, to date lil yeller has always gotten me home.
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was a knock on wood but have to go with the internal slave dieing on me 2x (was leaking when got jeep, then bleeder decided to come out of slave cylinder when trying to stop at a stop sign).... thanks for reminding me of that Chrisfranklin :brick: :brick:..
Sorry about that man :biggrin:
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I have been running 33's, 4.88's, ARB lockers, and 31 spline alloy axles on the D35 and the D30 for about a year sp far and nothing has broken (not on the driveline, anyway!).
I wasted a CV joint due to much axle droop, still drove it home, to date lil yeller has always gotten me home.
Even when it lands on it's lid, it seems... :wall: :stick:
That's more than I can say, as mine has left me stranded (in the city, mind you) a couple of times... Ripped weld seam on the fuel rail once, stuck brakes another, and no brakes at all (broken pedal-to-booster rod) on yet another! Oh, and a wheel came off the Jeep once while driving in the city as well...
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stock axle with some sort of locker the locker pins all broke and broke the locker cases never did find out the locker it looked like a 8.25 chry. in a d35 how they made it work as long as it did for the guy a bought the jeep from is beyond me has a new lock right front and rear now
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Felipe the concrete Jungle is killin that thing take it out in the mud where it belongs.
Yup the yellow beastie happily purred home with a borrowed windshield frame of my buddies trailer queen
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I snapped the bolts for the rear u-joint straps when I was backing out of a parking space :wall: I honestly wasn't doing anything extreme to make it do so, it just bound up and went SNAP! Fortunately there was a Kragen in the same parking lot so I bought a roll of duct tape and a Sunny D for the cap (friend said it fits over the stock slip yoke output perfectly) and taped it up and drove home. Following that I chipped a few teeth off the R&P in front of my friends shop. So in it went and got 4:88's :thumbsup:
When I finally gave up on the Turdy 5 was when my R&P was toast yet again. I knew I wasn't going to get the guy who did the work to warranty it since he was flat out broke, so in went the 9" :bandit:
I had third gear go out on me one time too. I'll admit I was driving the piss out of it at that point. Going from 2nd to 4th for a few weeks really, really SUCKED
Then I lost 5th gear about 4 months later in the tranny I had put in the old ones place. I still drove home at least. I seem to have also had good luck with breakage, good luck in the sense that even when sh!t breaks it still gets me home!
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Fortunately there was a Kragen in the same parking lot so I bought a roll of duct tape and a Sunny D for the cap (friend said it fits over the stock slip yoke output perfectly) and taped it up and drove home.
A 1 1/2" slip fit PVC pipe cap works perfectly for this. I used to keep one in my glove box.
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A 1 1/2" slip fit PVC pipe cap works perfectly for this. I used to keep one in my glove box.
Don't forget duct tape to hold it in :pirate: