4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: stan98tj on June 23, 2010, 04:01:45 PM
-
been getting nervous about damaging my diffs on hidden rocks and i just want to protect them a bit. I know there are some real complete ones (like the ARB) but i want to save some cash and just protect them a bit.
what do you guys think about this design:
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_armor_diffguards.html (http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_armor_diffguards.html)
im also thinking of getting a tie rod guard as well.
any opinions will be appreciated.
-
http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=7
Get one of these and call it good!
Not sure what a tie rod guard is, got any PICS?
-
I like the new cover idea.
-
http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=7
Get one of these and call it good!
Not sure what a tie rod guard is, got any PICS?
Those are the cheapest you can get. After those it would probably be the Riddler covers.
I've seen pictures (in a book) of tie rod guards on Land Rovers, just a rod out in front of the tie rod attached to the frame.
-
http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=7
Get one of these and call it good!
Not sure what a tie rod guard is, got any PICS?
as neal said, its basically a cover for the tie-rod. Ive also seen upgrade kits with beefier rods. By the way, i think im gonna go with your pic on diff guard. price is right and they look pretty tough.
-
A tie-rod guards seems more like an unnecessary additional expense. Sleeve the rod or upgrade it. Then you won't have to add a shovel/rock magnet to the front of the Jeep.
-
A tie-rod guards seems more like an unnecessary additional expense. Sleeve the rod or upgrade it. Then you won't have to add a shovel/rock magnet to the front of the Jeep.
Agreed! I would say save your money for the Currie steering.
-
Purchased the Solidaxle ones. thanks Fourbanger for the idea and link. Gonna take the time now to change out the fluids. I picked up Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-90 (synthetic) I know its the factory oil weight but i was actually looking for something that would do well with 4x4 use, but then again i dont 4x4 every day. Anyone else use royal purple?
-
regular gear oil for differentials is plenty good especially in an environment with lots of mud and water, where you would change the fluid when it gets contaminated with water somewhat frequently. Would be a waste of money in that case to use synthetic oil
-
I second the straight gear oil. You should really change it every time you play in the mud or go into water according to the manual. I bought the synthetic Mobile 1 initially, but now I'm getting the Valvoline standard gear oil 80-90w from Napa for only $3.50 a Liter.
-
I use M1 but like what others have said if your in a muddy/watery area where it should be changed a lot more often I would use recycled dinosaurs.
Not much mud or water around here.
-
regular gear oil for differentials is plenty good especially in an environment with lots of mud and water, where you would change the fluid when it gets contaminated with water somewhat frequently. Would be a waste of money in that case to use synthetic oil
This is what I use, too. I was changing out my diff oil every month for a while.
-
wow. change it every time ya play in the mud or water eh? most of the wheeling ive done involves water crossing or muddy puddles etc and i've yet to change it. guess it's a good thing im changing it soon.
-
You just look at the oil, if it gets milky/ gray it's got to come out.
However you look at it in my book synthetic gear oil is overkill
-
Many axle places I know of tell you to NOT use synthetic for a ring and pinion.
-
Many axle places I know of tell you to NOT use synthetic for a ring and pinion.
really? i wonder why. perhaps i should switch to regular.
-
Many axle places I know of tell you to NOT use synthetic for a ring and pinion.
For initial break-in you're not supposed to use synthetic. You need the friction to finish the peening process which was started at the factory. Afterward it's OK.
-
For initial break-in you're not supposed to use synthetic. You need the friction to finish the peening process which was started at the factory. Afterward it's OK.
well its been 110k miles since it left the factory, so i should be good.
-
For a long time, the regular gear oil had a high sulfur-zinc content that really helped keep the
gear surfaces tough, now that its gone my theory is the synthetic is better.
There are a few brands that sell break in oil that's really just the stuff
with the extra zinc for break-in... With a only use to break in disclaimer.
Dave