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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Nickabis on August 23, 2010, 08:29:49 PM
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Alright, I have a 1990 YJ 2.5 tbi with the Delco-Remy original alt (78 amp or so). I have been doing a ton of research and different threads about the ford Taurus fan swap. I figured I'd ask here as well because it's a 4banger site! The initial draw on the fan is 90amp with an approx continuous draw of 45amp. I had a lot of help on another forum but I wanted to find out if someone has done the fan swap with the same alt? Or if its worth doing all the work for the cs144 or cs130? I'm not running a winch or cb at the moment, just the usual stereo, fog lights, etc. I have a few other questions as well but I'll get to those later if this swap is worth it.
Thanks for all the help in advance!!
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run it off the low speed.
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I will be running the low speed, probably with a thermoswitch. I'm not to sure on the probe in the rad fins. I would like to have the option to turn it off and be able to turn it on high if wanted, on-off-on switch. I have a diagram of what I am wanting to do. The relays I can get are 100amp (free from my forklift job). I am worried about my stock alt being able to handle the continuous and initial load. Or if I should do all the work on the cs130 or 144?
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The stock alternator can handle it, the startup amperage isn't anywhere near as high as what you posted, only a fraction of that. The extreme startup amperage of that fan is a myth.
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The stock alternator can handle it, the startup amperage isn't anywhere near as high as what you posted, only a fraction of that. The extreme startup amperage of that fan is a myth.
It's not a myth but it happens for such a short amount of time that it's almost ignorable. It's also more of an issue when using the Hi-speed side of the fan as that draws more amps to begin with.
I did however, have a fuse blow after continuous on and off cycles even on the low-speed side. (Basically, every time I stopped for any extended amount of time.) Now, I run mine continuous so the only time it peaks is at start-up. Haven't had a fuse issue since.
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I haven't had an issue since I threw a 60 amp fuse in...cycling from low to high to off based on temperature.
I've had a new issue though where the Jeep will stall if I push in the clutch...while breaking...sometimes while steering and the fan is already running on high.
Almost like the engine has too much to handle and the idle drops to a stall. Annoying when I lose my power steering while trying to make a turn...and I have the 117amp alternator... :puzzled:
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I haven't had an issue since I threw a 60 amp fuse in...cycling from low to high to off based on temperature.
I've had a new issue though where the Jeep will stall if I push in the clutch...while breaking...sometimes while steering and the fan is already running on high.
Almost like the engine has too much to handle and the idle drops to a stall. Annoying when I lose my power steering while trying to make a turn...and I have the 117amp alternator... :puzzled:
you'd have this issue with a high amp alternator also.
you could use a second relay to increase the idle when the fan is on by closing the Power steering pressure contact (the one that is on the high pressure line coming out of the p/s pump), that should keeping it from stalling, it increases the idle by about 150 to 200 rpm when there's no load and compensates when there's load so the idle doesn't go too low.
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I haven't had an issue since I threw a 60 amp fuse in...cycling from low to high to off based on temperature.
I've had a new issue though where the Jeep will stall if I push in the clutch...while breaking...sometimes while steering and the fan is already running on high.
Almost like the engine has too much to handle and the idle drops to a stall. Annoying when I lose my power steering while trying to make a turn...and I have the 117amp alternator... :puzzled:
Can you run the fan in low-speed only? Does it only happen when in hi-speed?
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Alright, I have a 1990 YJ 2.5 tbi with the Delco-Remy original alt (78 amp or so).
i have the same year jeep and alt... low speed isn't a problem.. but high-speed slowly drains my system... but low speed is more than enough to cool the jeep.
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Can you run the fan in low-speed only? Does it only happen when in hi-speed?
I guess I could simply disconnect the high speed wire and it should run in low...or just splice the low speed wire into to both the high and low wires running to the DC Control unit....or I could just raise the temperature setting....
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hmmm...was noticing at lunch that it sounds like just the high speed is coming on....will need to check on that...
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hmmm...was noticing at lunch that it sounds like just the high speed is coming on....will need to check on that...
maybe you got the 2 speeds mixed up
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Nope...just must have been hot enough for the hi speed to start. Just started it up in my driveway and low speed came on. Still haven't adjusted the butt joints, but they all looked good.
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Moz, you didn't get the variable DCC controller? Mine is hooked up to the high side and rarely spins as fast as the low side.
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This is from an article in JP mag.
"I've heard things like the Taurus fan pulls 80 amps on a standing start into the "High" speed. I'm not sure if these guys are even measuring it. That amperage happens for milliseconds, and not only is it hard to measure, but most decent relays and connectors can handle a surge like that. Most regular fans that you can get from the aftermarket suggest a normal 30-amp Bosch relay. That includes 16-inch fans that pull upwards of 2500cfm.
Amperage Draw (amps) Ford Taurus Fan Low Ford Taurus Fan High SPAL VA18- AP71/LL-59A
Cold standing start 6.15 9.95 10.15
Warm standing start 3.14 10.7 11.43
Moving start 2.72 7.42 7.78
Continuous draw cold 1.8 4.29 5.11
Continuous draw warm 4.54 6.55 7.21
Since I had my Auto Meter DM-40 multimeter handy and access to both a Ford Taurus fan and a 3430cfm SPAL fan, I decided to take some measurements. In theory, starting the fan from stop should take more juice than if it is spinning-and a warm fan should take more to start than a cold fan. The SPAL constantly drew more than the Taurus fan on "High," but it is suggested to wire it up with a regular Bosch relay."
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This is from an article in JP mag.
Did this come from a recent issue?
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It was in Randy's electrical article a few issues back.
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The July 2010 issue
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i wonder if the same myth applies to the Lincoln Mk VIII fan - i need to buy a beefy ammeter and test it.
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i wonder if the same myth applies to the Lincoln Mk VIII fan - i need to buy a beefy ammeter and test it.
Yes. They use the same motor, IIRC.
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i ordered a 100 AMP ammeter and will measure the mk viii draw, unfortunately mine is a high speed only but i'm really curious what the result is (i read reports of something close to 50 amps which is quite high). I'll post the results once I get it (should be here in about a week).
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i ordered a 100 AMP ammeter and will measure the mk viii draw, unfortunately mine is a high speed only but i'm really curious what the result is
You're using your MN12 fan on the high speed input/setting? Oh. From your now-legendary thread, I thought you said you were using the low speed setting. Hmm.
Not sure how crucial this is for me, as my connector just has two wires. I guess I'll be using whatever speed Ford saw fit. ;)
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You're using your MN12 fan on the high speed input/setting? Oh. From your now-legendary thread, I thought you said you were using the low speed setting. Hmm.
not sure which thread you're referring to (i got a few of them going so point me where i said that, if i did i obviously made a mistake) - the mkviii fan i have has no low speed. i have a couple of resistive loads i picked up at the wreckers to put in-line and slow down the fan but that's no tell for how much the ones with low speed will actually draw.
EDIT: this is back when i got the fan http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,7112.msg52431.html#msg52431
[...] So off i went to the wreckers on another quest to find a Taurus fan - no way, they're all gone around here, the only ones you find are the dual fan shrouds. so browsing around in the wreckers yard i came across a fan from a Lincoln, 22x19 shroud, all square, seemed perfect - got it for $30 (canadian dollars also) and took it home. It has 3 terminals so i figured, yeah baby it's a 2 speed - not really, 1 speed, middle terminal is the same as the + terminal and even more of a genius spark for the one designing the wiring the middle and ground are both black and the positive is blue - you'd think the blue which is labelled + is always at 12v and then you have ground on one of the other 2 black wires one for high speed one for low speed - nope, i welded the wires to the battery since the middle and the + are internally connected. Anyway, to make the long story short - this is a Lincoln Mark VIII fan, apparently moves 5000cfm (no typo, i couldn't believe it either) and it draws about 40 or 50 amps). It kinda hovers when you turn it on (not really but it sounds like a got dam jet engine) - so i figured, what the heck should i do - i really like the shroud and the fan blades - went back to the wreckers - apparently the newer Tauruses have a high power resistor in series with the fans for A/C i think (low speed anyway) - so i picked up a couple of those for 5 bucks along with the wiring. Put one in series, the dam thing still wants to take off, put 2 of them in series - much better - i think that would be my low speed and leave it wired directly for the high speed - i don't think it will ever need high speed but just for redundancy i wan to have it in just in case one of the resistors dies. Apparenly this fan would spike to about 100 amps on start if it's wired directly, and from what i read it needs at least an 85 amp relay (good luck to me finding a cheap one of those, it will probably cost more than both fans put together).
Now i'm waiting for my rad so i can start fitting this baby on it.