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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Mozman68 on September 02, 2010, 11:52:52 AM
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Well...I guess driving to The Badlands, wheeling and then driving home was too much.
Driver side rear outer axle seal is leaking.
Any advice or links to how I can change this??
I need to get it out first so I can get the proper replacement from the auto parts store. :'(
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FF or Semi? If ti's a semi, I believe it's the same as with most other Dana's which require you to pull the shaft then pull the retainer off as well as the bearing.
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Yep...pretty sure I have to remove everything and then knock out from the inside where I can see the ring.
Both sides were just replaced in February by a buddy. He said he used the same type that was in there already because that is all they had, but he wanted to use some sort of heavy duty one??
Good thing it's a long weekend and the wife can drive me to work today and tomorrow....and good thing I saw the leak. That would have been fun...locking up the rear and destroying the entire Jeep while driving 70 mph down the highway... :yikes:
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Post a pic of your dana 60 axle and we can tell you what is involved. On a full floating axle make sure the wheelbearings are adjusted tight enough and there is no groove where the seal rides on the axle
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drip drip drip drip.... :'(
Will pull the wheel and caliper off tonight when I get a chance....the caked on mud from The Badlands should make that fun... :brick:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4945667968_b98777ecd3_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/4954601746_9de33bb551_b.jpg)
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Can't say I've ever seen anything like it! I hope someone can explain this. I'll sure learn something.
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Can't say I've ever seen anything like it! I hope someone can explain this. I'll sure learn something.
It's just his axle seal leaking.
You might want to check your pads as well. Hopefully they haven't absorbed any fluid.
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Well, halfway there. Waiting for the wife to get home so I can take the seal to Napa and get a replacement.
Jeep jacked up and wheel off.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/4957399379_dce2c25a41_b.jpg)
Removing the brake caliper
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4129/4957992090_9b3cb08f83_b.jpg)
Caliper removed and zip tied out of the way.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4087/4957400667_b338743b77_b.jpg)
Loosening and removing axle shaft bolts.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4150/4957395041_d94a9ae9a0_b.jpg)
Axle shaft is out.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/4957987816_f559d81e73_b.jpg)
For my D60, I need a 2 9/16" socket to remove the outer and inner nuts....that's a $33 socket. :yikes:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4152/4957396437_4528aa3fc0_b.jpg)
outer nut, lock nut, inner nut removed and bearing slides out with the hub.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4957397197_dd168d92a6_b.jpg)
Axle tube is exposed...cleaned up any dirt before putting anything back on.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/4957397805_216a2b8ec4_b.jpg)
Pried off the axle seal with a screwdriver and checked the inner bearing to make sure everything is clean.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/4957398671_73cfb4329b_b.jpg)
:thumbsup:
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Bah....locking nut broke when I was tightening. Will pick up a new one in the morning and get the rest back on.
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When you tighten it all up make sure you do not tear the inner tab of the lock ring when tightening. Insert a small screwdriver or pick in the groove to see if it's still there.
On the LH side the wheel will come off if you shear the locking tab of the locking ring
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Yep...it wasn't completely flat and while tightening the outer nut, the lock nut turned and the tab broke.
I was going to fast and forgot to flatten it out.
I'll make sure I use the screwdriver to help hold it when I do it tomorrow.
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Might be worth finding the other style nut (4 prong) that has the allen set screws. Then you don't have to mess with the silly tab washers.
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The biggest reason the seals fail is when putting the hub back on and the machined lip skins the seal. I always file the sharp edge down just enough that it won't cut the seal.
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Well...thank God Carquest near me is now open on Sunday. They were the only ones that had the lock washer.
Everything is back together.
But now the wife's Honda Odyssey is at 7-11 and won't start. Threw a new battery in there...still nothing b
What a great holiday weekend.
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Well...thank God Carquest near me is now open on Sunday. They were the only ones that had the lock washer.
Everything is back together.
But now the wife's Honda Odyssey is at 7-11 and won't start. Threw a new battery in there...still nothing b
What a great holiday weekend.
did you check the gas? (just in case)
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Hah...I did....1/2 full.
Got my buddy to come with me. We hooked it up to the Jeep and towed it home.
Tried to push it so it would get up the slight incline o my driveway and into the garage, but it didn't make it.
Decided to try it again and I heard the starter...tried it one more time and it started up...drove it into the garage.
Going to tear into it tomorrow to make sure it isn't something as simple as the power to the starter. If all of that checks out, I may be replacing the starter on Tuesday if I can get the part. Good thing we live right next to the school where my wife works. :thumbsup:
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A jeep towing a Honda, now there is a nice picture for vehicle reliability lol.
Could very well be the starter or a loose or corroded cable at the starter
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could also be the solenoid which would be le$$ damage than the whole starter
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Sounds like the way most of my projects go. Glad you got the leak fixed.
Make sure you take the plastic cap off the new battery posts. It won't do anything if one is one...or so I have been told :whistle:
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Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for posting the pictures. I never imagined the seal would be so exposed like that. Maybe some silicone around the edge would help it last longer. It seems it would be more reliable to have seals by the diff and have bearings lubed with grease like in front axles.
Can the spindle be replaced on D60s?
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Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for posting the pictures. I never imagined the seal would be so exposed like that. Maybe some silicone around the edge would help it last longer. It seems it would be more reliable to have seals by the diff and have bearings lubed with grease like in front axles.
Can the spindle be replaced on D60s?
The seal isn't normally exposed like that - normally there is a backing plate and a drum around it.
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Yep....can't seem to find those though. As soon as I do I'll change them out.
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The seal isn't normally exposed like that - normally there is a backing plate and a drum around it.
re-reading this and yes...now I know what you are referencing...hah...
Disc brakes welded on the tube prevent me from using the plate....I rubbed some grease in the gap to at least try and prevent crap from getting in there.
The first seals lasted 2.5 years of daily use and trail riding....at $6 a pop, not too worried about it. Just something else to look out for.
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You could probably fit a backing plate on there and just cut it out for the caliper. That's how the OEM ones are done.
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re-reading this and yes...now I know what you are referencing...hah...
Disc brakes welded on the tube prevent me from using the plate....I rubbed some grease in the gap to at least try and prevent crap from getting in there.
The first seals lasted 2.5 years of daily use and trail riding....at $6 a pop, not too worried about it. Just something else to look out for.
I have run rear seals like that for a lot of years without an issue. My bet is the seal got cut in the install.
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I have run rear seals like that for a lot of years without an issue. My bet is the seal got cut in the install.
Only takes one axle deep dip in sandy mud to eat them up.
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Only takes one axle deep dip in sandy mud to eat them up.
...and that's what it was this time. The Badlands will do that to you.... :'(
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On my D60 I ran Modified Chev Front D44 backing plates and calipers, which keep the crap out of the seals. Mine was a semi float D60, but should work on an FF as well.
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Only takes one axle deep dip in sandy mud to eat them up.
What is this 'mud' you refer too?