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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Jeffy on September 17, 2010, 05:42:11 PM
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Seems my volt meter is dying, I'm hoping. Currently it's reading 10-11-ish then it should be 12-13-ish. Or on the YJ gauge just above the 12v hash mark. At the battery is reads over 12v. At the fuse box it reads over 12v.
The FSM says the gauge gets it's signal from the temp gauge. So I'm hoping it's just the gauge is bad. I haven't taken apart the dash to check the signal though.
Thoughts?
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Seems my volt meter is dying, I'm hoping. Currently it's reading 10-11-ish then it should be 12-13-ish. Or on the YJ gauge just above the 12v hash mark. At the battery is reads over 12v. At the fuse box it reads over 12v.
The FSM says the gauge gets it's signal from the temp gauge. So I'm hoping it's just the gauge is bad. I haven't taken apart the dash to check the signal though.
Thoughts?
what does it show with the engine running and what do you find with a digital voltmeter on the battery (same here with the engine running)?
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The gauge reads 14 or there about. Should be 13.6-13.8v. I'll check it in a bit.
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The gauge reads 14 or there about. Should be 13.6-13.8v. I'll check it in a bit.
i think it's normal - it is really not meant to be much of an accurate reading other than to tell you if the alternator is charging or not. since you get the proper voltage shown with the engine running i don't think there's a wiring problem, mine behalves the same where with the engine stopped shows below (or very close) to 12v and between 13 and 14 with the engine running. Also makes a diff if you have for example the radio on (would show less since the alt is not charging).
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i think it's normal - it is really not meant to be much of an accurate reading other than to tell you if the alternator is charging or not. since you get the proper voltage shown with the engine running i don't think there's a wiring problem, mine behalves the same where with the engine stopped shows below (or very close) to 12v and between 13 and 14 with the engine running. Also makes a diff if you have for example the radio on (would show less since the alt is not charging).
The only difference is that it was reading correct before. I'll have to measure the voltage from the signal line to the gauge to be sure it's the gauge.
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The only difference is that it was reading correct before. I'll have to measure the voltage from the signal line to the gauge to be sure it's the gauge.
the signal line is 12v switched by ignition - all of the gauges are powered by that and it is the reference for the voltmeter.
EDIT: can also be ground reference. you'll need to measure the voltage on the 2 screws that connect the printed circuit to the voltmeter gauge on the back of the gauge cluster - if that is correct on the digital vm and off on the gauge then it's the gauge, if it the same on both you have a bad contact or wire somewhere along the line (either 12v or ground).
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Read my pins wrong. I see the Ignition feed wire now. Didn't have my digital gauge handy. Hooked up the analog VOM and it said 12.6v when off and 14 and change when the engine's running. Tracing it back to the PDM is fairly simple. I'm probably 90% sure it's the gauge as the alternator doesn't sound like it's kicking in when the battery is low. Also it shows a full charge when I put a charger on it.
Still gonna check the voltage at the gauge and then at the PDM.
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On mine, if I turn the AC, the voltage reading goes all the way down to like 11.5V or so (the faster the fan speed, the lower it gets). Yet with the voltmeter, measured at the battery with the engine running, and running ALL the things I have hooked up to the Jeep (GPS, CB, 4 set of Aux Lights, Stereo blasting, interior light, eFan, etc.) the difference was something like 0.1V or so (dont remember the exact voltage, but I want to say 13.8 or so)... I've never had an issue with the battery dying, so I just live with it.
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High-amp items draw a lot of power. I had just started to notice the difference in my gauge recently though. Like when starting, the volts drop to 10v but that's normal. When my fan turns on I see a drop in the voltage then it goes back a bit. Also normal... Probably too much water pouring down the backside of the dash causes the gauges to die. My fuel gauge doesn't work unless the engine is running. It used to work when the ignition was on before. Also, it likes to get stuck at 1/4. If I full it up, it will read E till I slosh it around a bit. Them it may get stick at 1/4 or 1/2 till it breaks free. I'm sure the gauge is bad since I know water poured directly onto it. That's the problem with Jeeps. They leak and the gauges rarely work.
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Mine reads 2v high and shows a voltage drop when in reverse. But the voltage is fine at the battery.
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So I got around to tearing the dash apart for the umpteenth time. The gauge is screwy. The VOM was reading the right voltage from the harness. It got me thinking about making a bracket for aftermarket gauges though. Seems like you could make a template from some of the parts of the gauge cluster. I took mine apart so I could take the individual gauge out.
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So I got around to tearing the dash apart for the umpteenth time. The gauge is screwy. The VOM was reading the right voltage from the harness. It got me thinking about making a bracket for aftermarket gauges though. Seems like you could make a template from some of the parts of the gauge cluster. I took mine apart so I could take the individual gauge out.
I've seen a dash sold for aftermarket gauges for the YJ; dont remember who made it or whol sold it (I think it was 4wd.com or Quadratec), but I am sure you can google that up. It also allowed for 5 gauges instead of 4...
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I've seen a dash sold for aftermarket gauges for the YJ; dont remember who made it or whol sold it (I think it was 4wd.com or Quadratec), but I am sure you can google that up. It also allowed for 5 gauges instead of 4...
i'm pretty sure it was made by autometer but i think (not sure) that it was discontinued or not available when I was looking for one. Could still be in stock at some of the resellers though.
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i'm pretty sure it was made by autometer but i think (not sure) that it was discontinued or not available when I was looking for one. Could still be in stock at some of the resellers though.
This (http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=12598) is the one I am talking about...
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This (http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=12598) is the one I am talking about...
yeah, that's the one but i couldn't get it at the time (like 5 years ago) so i had to make my own.
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I've seen a dash sold for aftermarket gauges for the YJ; dont remember who made it or whol sold it (I think it was 4wd.com or Quadratec), but I am sure you can google that up. It also allowed for 5 gauges instead of 4...
Those are UGLY though. They aren't built to the exactly like the OE one and are slightly off in color as well. 5 gauges isn't a big deal since the OE had 5 gauges. It's jsut teh 5th one is either a Clock or a 4WD indicator.
I'll probably replace all of the gauges eventually. Probably end up keeping the YJ dash. All that I'd need to do is make a mounting bracket for the small gauges. BUT I'll probably wait to do that. It's nor a priority as those gauges aren't crucial as long as I know they're working or not. Actually, I forgot but I can check the voltage at the battery with my 2M radio. It does a power check when it starts up so I have second gauge.
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Those are UGLY though. They aren't built to the exactly like the OE one and are slightly off in color as well. 5 gauges isn't a big deal since the OE had 5 gauges. It's jsut teh 5th one is either a Clock or a 4WD indicator.
I'll probably replace all of the gauges eventually. Probably end up keeping the YJ dash. All that I'd need to do is make a mounting bracket for the small gauges. BUT I'll probably wait to do that. It's nor a priority as those gauges aren't crucial as long as I know they're working or not. Actually, I forgot but I can check the voltage at the battery with my 2M radio. It does a power check when it starts up so I have second gauge.
i assume you have a clock on your radio as well, so i would say forget about that one. I would go with an AFR gauge instead the 4wd one (i mean really that is only a light, you don't need a gauge for that and is not even displaying when you're in Low anyway).
i don't have the P/Ns for the ones i used but they are autometer pro-comp and I ended up with 7
Fuel Pressure - mechanical
vacuum/boost - mechanical
Oil Pressure - mechanical
Water temp - electrical, i used the stock sender off the Jeep and seems to display correctly
Fuel Level - electrical, same here off the stock sender (there are 2 types though, need the one that matches the the Jeep sender)
Voltmeter
AFR - led based on narrowband output
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/sharpxmen/Misc/Instrument_Cluster.jpg)
the empty space to the right of the AFR gauge i am planning to get a switch panel for lockers front/rear, air compressor, e-fan, winch (although i think is too far away), offroad lights and not sure what else (still trying to figure it out)
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Yeah, if I redo my gauges the 4WD gauge is going to be a small light. Not sure what I'd put in it's place though. Maybe a wide-band.
I've seen dashes recessed back like yours but it doesn't float my boat. I've also thought about swapping the glove box with a Tuffy to make that flat as well. I'm kinda tossed between going custom flat or using the stock dash. It's pretty low on my list though. I could probably replace the smaller gauges and reuse the stock dash still I decide...
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i wanted to go flat from door to door, but in the end was too much work and i was running into some issues. One day maybe - I would use a black hammered look paint on plain sheetmetal.
funny thing is that panel i made makes the Jeep look bigger inside