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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: littledavid123 on September 30, 2010, 08:27:20 PM
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I have a 92 yj, 88,000 miles with a 2.5 that is all but blown from previous owner driving without oil. I have never done any mechanic work nor know much about it, but to date I am having a blast.
So far I stripped the body and just this evening my buds came over and we lifted the entire body off the frame. My plans are to purchase a GM V6 and ax15 transmission from Novak with all wiring and parts. The frame has very minimal rust and will strip it down and coat with Herculiner, would prefer to do same to under body but don't know how to get the factory sprayed stuff off (any suggestions)?
I am not a rock crawler, more of a second gear cruising the mountain roads with beer cooler and a bucket of chicken...lol I guess my second request for help would be how do I reconize wear and replacement needs for the suspension.
Any other suggestions or opinions would be appreciated. Taking my time and plan to have the project done sometime late spring.
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There are better products than Herc for the frame, like POR15.
Try a can of Aircraft Remover for the underbody coating, let it soak a few minutes and scrape off. Never tried it but that'd be my first attempt.
Consider a complete 4.3L drivetrain from a donor vehicle with the 231c transfer case, you will save a lot of money on adapters.
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i would just remove the factory coating where you have rust (if you do) and 1 or 2 inches around that area - use an angle grinder and a cup brush with twisted steel wires. Like Bounty suggested use POR15 or equivalent rust stop on the rust. for the rest of the underbody coating just clean well and degrease prior to spraying it. your goal is to seal the underbody well so there's no moisture forming under the coating.
for the frame best is if you can sandblast it (if you have the option) and then use cold galvanizing paint on the bare metal - use compatible paint to seal the galvanizing and then you can use herculiner or equivalent on top of that.
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Thank You for the advice, also a note to all, 8 is exactly how many you need to remove the body in one piece (front fendors and all) it leaves 6 to hold in the air while the other 2 disengauge the stuff you didn't see or forgot...lol I will send pics as I progress.
And to all who read...suggestions are appreciated.
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AAAGH... I used a flare wrench to t ry to remove the brake lines from the cylinder and I rounded both nuts without budging them. What do I do from here and any suggestions on how to properly remove the other nuts from the brakes so I can sandblast the frame to paint it with POR 15?
Also I found a local guy who will sand blast (river sand) the frame, axles, steering and suspension for $150.00 price seems fair but am concerned about the river sand being to abrasive, what do the experts have to say?
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Vice-grips and some liquid wrench.
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... so I can sandblast the frame to paint it with POR 15?
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if you sandblast it you don't need POR15 (and others chip in here if i'm wrong please). As far as i know the POR15 will seal and convert the rust so it stops the process, if it's bare metal i don't think would be more beneficial compared to an anti-rust primer, once it dries the POR15 won't convert anything.
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Great, thanks for the help. Tomorrow the brake lines and gas tank come off and then it's to the sand blaster.
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Shortcut
Instead of taking the brake line off the rear axle and the hoses running down to the brakes on the front end, I split an old garden hose and zip tied it around the lines prior to taking it to the sand blasters.
Also which does everyone think is best on the frame POR 15 or inorganic galvanized paint. After reading up on both it appear to me that the POR 15 would be better?
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Shortcut
Instead of taking the brake line off the rear axle and the hoses running down to the brakes on the front end, I split an old garden hose and zip tied it around the lines prior to taking it to the sand blasters.
Also which does everyone think is best on the frame POR 15 or inorganic galvanized paint. After reading up on both it appear to me that the POR 15 would be better?
If money is not a problem, you could always Line-X or Rhino the frame... That should be pretty tough!
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If money is not a problem, you could always Line-X or Rhino the frame... That should be pretty tough!
I would not Rhino or line x the frame. Unless you're 100% sure you got all of the rust AND sealed the whole frame, the liner will hide any rust until it's too late. Also liners like Rhino are flammable.
My choice would be to Hammerite it or just use Rustolium Professional.
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Shortcut
Instead of taking the brake line off the rear axle and the hoses running down to the brakes on the front end, I split an old garden hose and zip tied it around the lines prior to taking it to the sand blasters.
Also which does everyone think is best on the frame POR 15 or inorganic galvanized paint. After reading up on both it appear to me that the POR 15 would be better?
If it is sandblasted, go with the galvanizing paint.
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If it is sandblasted, go with the galvanizing paint.
that's what i said too, a bit more involved process as you need to seal it with compatible paint after though but it is the best option as far as i know.
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Got my YJ back from the sandblaster and he did a wonderful job.
After researching everyones recomendations I am going to use the ZRC galvanizing paint, will take a total of 4 coats, 2 galvan paint and 2 topcoats but thats what the weekends are for...lol
Thanks to everyone for their inputs :thumb: Will be back in a week or so after painting the frame with comments on the application.
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I will try to post some pics this weekend. Another question>>> This ZRC is rather limiting as to what I can topcoat with and I need some help as to what I should topcoat with. My plans were to use Herculiner and I believe it is ok but do you folks recommend it?
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I will try to post some pics this weekend. Another question>>> This ZRC is rather limiting as to what I can topcoat with and I need some help as to what I should topcoat with. My plans were to use Herculiner and I believe it is ok but do you folks recommend it?
you need to use a primer that is compatible usually that is specified in the directions on the container. Basically if you use alkyd based paint you will run into a process called saponification (the zinc in your galvanizing coat will react with the alkyd based top coat) - usually the manufacturer will have a primer that is compatible with your galvanizing paint and will also have other paints compatible with it - you should use a primer and a top coat over it or couple of coats of compatible paint to seal it. So the rule is no alkyd based paint, most acrylic and epoxy based paints are compatible (but make sure) and some water based ones are also compatible. Most spray paint cans are not (although some will not tell you if they contain alkyds but most of them do).
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Called U.S. Paints of Missouri and those folks were extremly helpful. They had exactly the paint I needed and although their minimum order is 5 gallons, at the time I called they were making a run of the black and they agreed to send me a gallon...Great Folks
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Called U.S. Paints of Missouri and those folks were extremly helpful. They had exactly the paint I needed and although their minimum order is 5 gallons, at the time I called they were making a run of the black and they agreed to send me a gallon...Great Folks
glad to hear that - what paint did you get from them?
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Aliphatic Polurethane, in a gloss black.
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don't forget to take pics in the process, we love that stuff here :lol:
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Note to all:
It's been 4 days since I sandblasted and today I found a reason to wait a few days before priming. Their were several faint rings of oil soaking out of the axle covers. Good thing I noticed or my primer and paint would not have stuck to the covers. Took pics today but will be next week before I can put them up (soccer tournament Sat and Sun).
Any gasket glue better than others? Ohh also found a guy who will spray my paint on the frame (2 coats) for $150.00...Is that a good price...seems fair.
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black RTV, for some reason i like it better than transparent or blue.
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I just RTV'd my differentials and am wondering if I wait an hour and torque down or 24 hours...Hurry with your answer...lol
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I just RTV'd my differentials and am wondering if I wait an hour and torque down or 24 hours...Hurry with your answer...lol
I usually put the RTV on then wait till it tacks up a bit. 5-10 minutes. Then plop it on and torque. If you put it on too early you'll just be squeezing out.
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lol...I went running out to the barn and torqued everything up and still had some rtv squeezing out, even though it had been an hour.
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lol...I went running out to the barn and torqued everything up and still had some rtv squeezing out, even though it had been an hour.
You probably used too much RTV. You only need a little.
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i usually let it tack up a few minutes like Jeffy said, but then just get it finder tight, and torque it down a few hours latter.
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I have been off the project for a while (kids soccer tournaments) and today I took the fuel pump out of the gas tank and that piece of plastic that the filter screen sets inside of has broken away from the tank. My question is can it be glued back into place and if so what kind of glue would I use. Don't care to buy a new gas tank just for that little plastic box.
I have also decided not to brush on the zinc paint but spray on instead, just don't think I can get it into the the tight places as well with a brush.
After witnessing all the dirt and small rocks on both sides of the rubber liner that goes between the gas tank and the metal box that supports it, I think it best to stuff fiberglass insulation into both ends to help keep the rocks out that can chew a hole in the gas tank or the support box.
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Another queston: How do I tell if the ball joints on the front steering need replacing??? I am having to take apart and replace the rubbers that hold the grease in.
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Any advice on my last 2 questions???
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Another queston: How do I tell if the ball joints on the front steering need replacing??? I am having to take apart and replace the rubbers that hold the grease in.
you can usually tell if you move the steering left/right to see if there is play. you can also lift the front axle on each side (jack under the axle tube and lift just enough so the tire is off the ground) and grab on the tire and move left right so you can feel if there's play in the joints. You'll need someone to spot.
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Been off the project for a while, my 12 yr old daughter broke her arm and leg playing basketball. :gimp:
Will the gas sending unit from the original 2.5 work when I switch out to a
4.3 L Vortec?