4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: GPSAR TJ on October 15, 2010, 04:20:46 PM
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Threw a rod bearing/ posibly main at rausch last week, wheeled it all day sun that way, may as well get my $ worth. any how I have a complete 2.5 out of a late model yj and would like to toss that into my tj while the tj 2.5 gets a proper build for turbo( forged goodies) what is the same? whats diffrent? and what needs to stay in the tj to to this quick swap.. got most of the stuff for my turbo project and will do alot of the basic de-bugging on this older yj motor while the other gets rebuilt and this will also allow me to wheel. having withdrawl already. any advice would be great, thanks Jason
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The block and heads should be the same.
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oil pan and oil pump (at least the pickup i think) is different. water pump is different also.
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oil pan and oil pump (at least the pickup i think) is different. water pump is different also.
Unless the YJ donor is a '95.5, as they switched to a lot of TJ parts mid-year, like the oilpan and pickup. Likely water pump as well, as the belt-routing changed mid-year '95.
Just use the block, head, and oilpan from the YJ.
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Unless the YJ donor is a '95.5, as they switched to a lot of TJ parts mid-year, like the oilpan and pickup. Likely water pump as well, as the belt-routing changed mid-year '95.
Just use the block, head, and oilpan from the YJ.
he's got a TJ, so why keep the YJ oilpan? isn't that going to interfere with the exhaust downpipe?
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I believe he has to change the oil pan too...
I'm doing the same but having a shop build the short block for me...
I NEED to know this same question... Also is there anything on the block to identify what year it's from???
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I believe he has to change the oil pan too...
I'm doing the same but having a shop build the short block for me...
I NEED to know this same question... Also is there anything on the block to identify what year it's from???
if you have a TJ then use the TJ oil pan and oil pump (or at least the oil pickup, i think the pumps are the same but not sure)
there's an engine identification stamped area right under the 4th cylinder spark plug (from FSM, i can confirm that's the case with my block)
first 3 digits are
1 - year
2 and 3 month
then there's a 2 digit code for the type of engine, all i know is HX stands for 150cid 9.1:1 comp ratio mpfi engine
digits 5 and 6 are for the day it was built.
so 306HX15 means it was manufactured on June 15 1993, i have no idea what they did once it reached 2000, maybe they start using letters.
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Cool... Thanks for the info... I'll have to check out what they are on BOTH of my 2.5's... The one in the garage I'm planning on building up!
Another thread for that discussion.. Let me see if I can find it!
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you guys are the best. thanks for the info. seeing as my tj pan looks like a gremlin went at at with a 5 lb. sledge I will use the yj pan and pickup, exhaust routing is changing anyway for the turbo. roadkill you goin forged rods/pistons? curious to know what stuff your using. thanks all, Jason.
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I'm going to be a cheap as possible...
Dropping off the block today to get a better quote...
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The code I got for identification is 00IHX22
I think the I may be a 1...
Also the machine shop thinks it my have to be bored to 60 over... I don't think I'm going to do it with this block!!!
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The code I got for identification is 00IHX22
I think the I may be a 1...
Also the machine shop thinks it my have to be bored to 60 over... I don't think I'm going to do it with this block!!!
HX is def past 91 so that would make it Jan 22 2000 - unless that first 0 it's an 8 then is a '98 rather
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The code I got for identification is 00IHX22
I think the I may be a 1...
Also the machine shop thinks it my have to be bored to 60 over... I don't think I'm going to do it with this block!!!
Youd have to sonic check it to make sure all the cylinder walls can handle it.
Mine would have maxed out at 50 on two cylinders. But I only needed 30...
Dave
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Update to OP. pulled the oil pan, found piston soup. piston closest to the trans, all the skirt up to the wristpin and about halfway around one side of the wristpin in the bottom of the pan. really sounded like a rod bearing but damn this thing is tough, i beat it mercillessly all day in that condition at rausch.