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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: lqdtrance on October 15, 2010, 06:12:15 PM
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So, has anyone had this happen? I know I need a new steering box. I am going to upgrade to power steering here in the next week or so. I just put in a new rough country steering stabilizer as well. Not sure what could be causing this other than the bad steering box.
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steer bump maybe?
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steer bump maybe?
Sounds like bump steer to me too.
Is the swerving less noticable if you accelerate slowly?
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Yes, it is less noticeable. It acts funny when I accelerate or decelerate around corners too.
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Sounds like bumpsteer, caused by the front trackbar and draglink not being parallel and a soft front suspension. As you shift or accelerate/decelerate around corners the front suspension compresses or droops. If the trackbar and draglink are not parallel, this suspension movement will push your steering to the side.
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Yup, bumpsteer.
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Good to know. So, Do I buy a new one or is there a way to adjust it?
You said soft front suspension. Everything seems like it's rough. I can feel every little bump. I was going to replace my shocks. I'm sure I could use new ones no matter what.
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Can you post a pic of your front end, close up between the tires?
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Good to know. So, Do I buy a new one or is there a way to adjust it?
post a pic like Bounty suggested
most likely you need a drop pitman arm or a trackbar relocation bracket or both
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I have tried to upload the pic over 5 times. I re-sized it down to a tiny 256k and now it has been saying that the uploader if full.
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host it on photobucket
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(http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac234/lqdtrance/PA166397.jpg)
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looks like you need to raise the trackbar at the axle end a bit or lower it at the frame end if you can. You can also use a combination of drop pitman arm and trackbar relocation bracket on the axle (doesn't look like you can do it just by itself without the pitman arm since you don't have to raise it that much without the drop pitman arm) - that way you'll have a lower angle as well to compensate for the lift.
but to be honest is not that much off so maybe that's not what you're experiencing, we'll see what others think.
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do you have a locker? mine does that sometimes cause of my lunch box locker made it noticeable!! whatever way the axle is when you load it up it will push me strait "may not be the way I want to go" until I shift and then it straitens and doesn't do it again till I turn or push it hard!!
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I think it may be a little bit of the lockers and steering as well. So, a drop pitman arm and trackbar relocation bracket? I'll check around for some good prices. I plan on getting a new lift here soon. This one is tweaked a bit. The driver side front shackle is leaning to the driver side. The shackle isn't bent and the bearings are good. So I think some how I warped a spring.
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I think it may be a little bit of the lockers and steering as well. So, a drop pitman arm and trackbar relocation bracket? I'll check around for some good prices. I plan on getting a new lift here soon. This one is tweaked a bit. The driver side front shackle is leaning to the driver side. The shackle isn't bent and the bearings are good. So I think some how I warped a spring.
I have a brand new drop pitman arm from a lift kit that i didn't use if you're interested
EDIT: here, there were no takers so it's still available http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,7684.0.html
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If you have a locker then it's the locker.
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The reason for bumpsteer is not because your drag-link and track bar aren't parallel. That just causes binding when they move in different arch's. The reason for the bumpsteer is because the drag-link is not parallel with tie-rod.
Looking at his setup, he'll need to raise the track bar on the axle side to get it parallel with the drag-link. If he lowers the drag-link with a pitman arm, it will be even more out of parallel.
Still, if he's got a locker then it's the locker... You've got to learn to shift when you're going straight and not while in a turn.
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The reason for bumpsteer is not because your drag-link and track bar aren't parallel. That just causes binding when they move in different arch's. The reason for the bumpsteer is because the drag-link is not parallel with tie-rod.
Looking at his setup, he'll need to raise the track bar on the axle side to get it parallel with the drag-link. If he lowers the drag-link with a pitman arm, it will be even more out of parallel.
Still, if he's got a locker then it's the locker... You've got to learn to shift when you're going straight and not while in a turn.
that's pretty much what i said but if you look at it he won't have room to raise it by just that little. You still have side to side movement in the front if you have that angle steep (even with them parallel), should be closer to horizontal though so the difference in side to side is not that significant when loading and unloading the front.
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So I should be good if I get the drop pitman arm and the bracket correct? Or just keep it as it is? Either way, I'm interested in that Pitman arm.
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So I should be good if I get the drop pitman arm and the bracket correct? Or just keep it as it is? Either way, I'm interested in that Pitman arm.
Well, first off does you Jeep have a suspension lift? It's hard to tell in the pic. If it's on the stock leafs then just take off the track bar and install the dropped pitman arm.
It looks like you're using the stock track bar location with some lift. I can't tell if it's all shackles or not. If there is a suspension lift then your front and probably rear axles are not running centered to the frame. Although if you have a lift then there is a good chance it already has a dropped pitman arm. In which case you would just need to get rid of the track bar all together or raise the mount on the axle side.
If that's not the case then I don't think you'll b able to raise the track bar sufficiently if you get a dropped pitman arm. So the best option would be to get rid of it. Hopefully you have already removed the rear track bar.
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I have a suspension lift with shackle lift. Superlift springs. I think 3" and 1" shackles. Both track bars are on front and rear. I honestly do not think they are running center. Is there a way to correct this problem while still being able to have the track bar for stabilization? I just want it safe but still be able to out in the woods. Right now it doesn't feel safe at all.
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I have a suspension lift with shackle lift. Superlift springs. I think 3" and 1" shackles. Both track bars are on front and rear. I honestly do not think they are running center. Is there a way to correct this problem while still being able to have the track bar for stabilization? I just want it safe but still be able to out in the woods. Right now it doesn't feel safe at all.
The rear one I doubt you'll notice it's gone; even my RE lift kit said in the instructions to get rid of it. I never have noticed any difference. And if I were to do it all over again, I would also get rid of the front one. I currently use a telescoping one from JKS, but I doubt it's working as it should (it's closer to not having one, I think).
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Funny cause I just put the damn track bar back on in the front after I got extended sway bar connectors. Sway bar/track bar are the same thing correct?
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Funny cause I just put the damn track bar back on in the front after I got extended sway bar connectors. Sway bar/track bar are the same thing correct?
trackbar is the one going from the driver side part of the frame to the axle on the passenger side (right above the axle vacuum disconnect) - it keeps the axle from moving side to side
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How long ago was the suspension lift installed? Did you retighten the U-bolts?
Further more: I got rid of the rear trackbar. A friend of mine reinstalled his, when pulling a trailer he lacked stability.
Mine front trackbar got a 2" bracket, raising the trackbar at the axle side. It was part of my liftkit. Never driven it without front trackbar.
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The front and rear trackbars are mounted in opposite directions, so when you lifted without installing trackbar brackets the axles were pulled in opposite directions. The rear axle no longer tracks directly behind the front axle. When the jeep leans forward or back during acceleration/braking, this misalignment of axles is even greater as the suspension movement causes the axles to be pulled sideways.
I'd remove both front and rear trackbars and drive the jeep, see if it still pulls during acceleration/deceleration.
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Ok. I'll do that and see how she is.
I know there is an extension for the track bar on the rear. I also did a measurement from the inside of the wheels and all around the passenger side is 1 - 1.5:" closer to the frame then on the driver side.
My lift is old actually. Looking at 5-6 yrs old maybe. I am due for a new one. Unfortunately I don't have the beans to do it all yet. I am a full time student once again.
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Ok. I'll do that and see how she is.
I know there is an extension for the track bar on the rear. I also did a measurement from the inside of the wheels and all around the passenger side is 1 - 1.5:" closer to the frame then on the driver side.
My lift is old actually. Looking at 5-6 yrs old maybe. I am due for a new one. Unfortunately I don't have the beans to do it all yet. I am a full time student once again.
Age doesn't really matter too much. With the older lifts that are stuff, they usually soften up nicely when aged. :lol:
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Between the sagging of older springs, and the seizing of shackle bushings, it's hard to say if your ride is stiffer or softer than it should be in like-new condition. Be sure to post back the results of any attempted diagnosis.
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Mine has both track bars removed and a drop pitman arm and the steering is good. You might also consider a tie rod flip instead of a drop pitman arm. The front track bar caused strange steering effects on my Jeep and removing it really improved the steering.
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If its something that happens only when applying torque, or downshifting, it might a bad transmission mount or motor mounts possibly. Just take a good look at them, it could be part of the problem.