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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: N8whitie on October 19, 2010, 01:29:34 PM
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So my AA SYE and Tom Woods rear driveshaft has arrived and I'm looking for opinions on difficulty and things to look for when installing an SYE and rear DS. I've never done it before so I've been hacking around the net for instructions and personal accounts of this task and figured I would ask here as well. Thanks, Nate.
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It's pretty easy, make sure you get some lock ring or split-ring pliers, they have duck-bill tips that are knurked to grab and spread the locking rings on the mainshaft. Got mine at Sears. You also need a 10mm 12pt socket for one of the case half bolts. Yoke nuts are 1 1/8" sockets.
Clean the mating surfaces very well, first with a wire brush then wipe with a rag soaked in brake cleaner. Seal with a very thin coat of RTV, like 1/16" bead, then spread flat with your finger. The RTV should barely squeeze out when bolting the case halves together.
If you get stuck along the way, quickest way to contact me is by email bountyhunter AT sija.org . I'll be glad to help.
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Also look on you tube "SYE Install" and check out the vireo instructions on how to do it. I found that very useful. Oh, and listen to bounty; the wrong snap ring pliers can be the difference between 2 hours of work, and 2 days of work (dont ask why I know this!).
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The wrong ones or cheap ones (ie. harbor freight)...
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Nice, good to hear. Thanks guys. I watched that video and it made it a bit less intimidating. Can't do it for about a week and a half due to plans but I have to wait for my new motor mounts to come in anyways.
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I just recently bought the advanced adapters sye and tom woods drive shaft combo. You can do the install without removing the np231 but it is ALOT easier if you remove it. You should check the chain for wear if it feels really loose look into replacing it now while you are doing this, it would suck to have to crack open the case again. I replaced my chain. Also if you have any lift or raised the TC with a belly up skid you should invest in some adjustable rear upper control arms...makes a world of a difference when you start experiencing driveline vibrations. You can also substitute adjustable cam bolts for less $$ but you limit the amount of angle you can achieve. One more thing, my driveshaft came up a bit too short for my liking and I called and shipped it back to Tom Woods and they lengthened it for free, only cost was shipping.
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Exactly how do you check the chain for wear? When the rear case half is removed, the slack in the chain is caused by the mainshaft being pulled to the side.
A new chain is $65 around here, cheap insurance, especially if you have high miles.
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The chain can stretch after high miles (130k) or about 42k in 4wd. Mine was loose most likely from previous owner having a 3" body lift and never adjusting the trunion on the shift linkage. That made shifting into 4wd a grinding chore it would always slip out of gear under load. Some play is normal but the chain can rub against the bottom of the case in extreme case. You really want to look for excessive metal shavings in the gear oil or inside the case. The shavings can get into other parts and wear down parts to failure.
To get my transfer case working right I finally had to install an advanced adapter tranfer case shift kit. I installed a skyjacker high clearance skid plate and this is required to move the linkage off the body. I now have a high clearance skid plate, SYE, new chain, shift linkage, CV drive shaft, and cam bolts to make everything work. Kind of a pain in the ass once you go with a high clearance skid plate...the law of un-intended consequences comes into play and you have to add a shit load of other parts.
Here is a link to some info about beefing up the NP231 includes a heavy duty chain from Tri-County Gear that would be an awesome upgrade. http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/howto/3103/index.html
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Getting rid of the dumb TJ/XJ transfer case linkage is one of the best upgrades you can do, losing the bellcrank attached to both the drivetrain and the tub. Teraflex has a decent bracket for this for around $60, or there's complete shifters available.
I installed the larger chain, sprockets, and 6-gear planetary using parts from donor transfer cases. A lot cheaper than what they want retail.
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Getting rid of the dumb TJ/XJ transfer case linkage is one of the best upgrades you can do, losing the bellcrank attached to both the drivetrain and the tub. Teraflex has a decent bracket for this for around $60, or there's complete shifters available.
I installed the larger chain, sprockets, and 6-gear planetary using parts from donor transfer cases. A lot cheaper than what they want retail.
How much did all that end up costing Chris? I looked on Polyperformance and it has the np231 wide chain kit for 450 and the planetary gear for 250. I haven't done any really heavy trails in my rig yet but I plan on it so I want everything to hold up the best I can get it without going broke and most of the parts on my Jeep have been there since it was born so while I'm down there doing my SYE and such I might as well do whatever else I have to while the Tcase is opened so I won't have to reopen it in the future or find out the hard way that I should have done it while I had the chance.
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Just depends on the cost of the donor transfer cases. I think my parts came from a 233c, but they can be found in others.
The 4banger doesn't really 'need' the heavy parts but it's nice knowing it can take v8 power, overbuilt isn't bad.