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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: 95yjman on October 31, 2010, 08:01:23 PM
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Its out of a 78 F150 and I got it for next to nothing. However, I have a scout d44 in the rear of my jeep and the Front 44 out of the ford is full width. What would be the best way to make this work? Narrow the ford axle, but what would I do for axle shafts? Would I need custom made ones to fit my new length? Or should swap in a different rear axle, which i don't really want to do but if i did, I would go 60..instead of going home ::)
I thought I remember reading that the Wagoneer Front 44 is an inch longer then the D30? Could I cut it down to that length and run wagoneer axle shafts?
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Cut it down so it would use SJ axle shafts. Otherwise run full width and reign in the width with offset wheels.
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I would narrow it for Wagoneer shafts, that's what I'm doing to two 3/4t Ford d44's. Cut the inner C's, cut the tube to length, and reweld the inner C's. I've got a spare Waggy housing here so reference is easy.
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Think thats gonna be a big pain in the butt? I know it won't be fun..but hey gotta do what you gotta do to have beefyness heh think I can find the exact measurements on the internet? as far as length of a Waggy 44?
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Lots of Dana 44 info on these sites:
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html - Check out the charts with axle shaft lengths
http://www.offroaders.com/directory/axles/dana44.htm
You have a high pinion (good!) and disk brakes (good!), but there are issues with the spring brackets on 78-79 (unless you got it from an F150 Super Cab with leaf springs).
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there are issues with the spring brackets on 78-79 (unless you got it from an F150 Super Cab with leaf springs).
Ya those cast radius arm brackets make this an undesirable axle, that's why I went with the 3/4t Ford axles. That and heavier axletubes.
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Keep it full width. Measure the wms between the 2 axles and get a difference. Divide by 2 and that is the size spacer to match the rear to the front wms. Or subtract 2" on the difference and then divide by 2. This gives you a wider axle (1" on each side) up front for better stability and turning. Then add the smaller sized spacers on the rear axle.
I wouldn't worry about the cast wedges. Use the Ford radius arms, lengthen them and put heims on the ends. Or go with custom radius arms for the Ford application. The Ford Bronco used the same axle and radius arm size. It weighed over 6k#s stock. Many do complain about the potential of breaking a front tube. But there really haven't been many cases.
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Keep it full width. Measure the wms between the 2 axles and get a difference. Divide by 2 and that is the size spacer to match the rear to the front wms. Or subtract 2" on the difference and then divide by 2. This gives you a wider axle (1" on each side) up front for better stability and turning. Then add the smaller sized spacers on the rear axle.
I wouldn't worry about the cast wedges. Use the Ford radius arms, lengthen them and put heims on the ends. Or go with custom radius arms for the Ford application. The Ford Bronco used the same axle and radius arm size. It weighed over 6k#s stock. Many do complain about the potential of breaking a front tube. But there really haven't been many cases.
he's got a '95 YJ with leaf springs
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I know of some local Jeeps with wider front axles and it works fine, and it helps keep the rear tires out of trouble. On the other hand, running wider in the back is not good, if the front makes it through you still don't know if the rear will make it.
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I know of some local Jeeps with wider front axles and it works fine, and it helps keep the rear tires out of trouble. On the other hand, running wider in the back is not good, if the front makes it through you still don't know if the rear will make it.
Many trucks have front axles that are wider then the rears stock. I seem to remember having a wider axle in the rear can screw up tracking or handling.
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Many trucks have front axles that are wider then the rears stock. I seem to remember having a wider axle in the rear can screw up tracking or handling.
It makes for a wider turn radius when the front is the same or narrower than the rear.
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I sent you a PM fourbanger...
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I sent you a PM fourbanger...
:thumb:
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The radius arm wedges can easily be cut off. It's true the F250 have thicker tubes but if they could live under a F150 you should be fine with it under a YJ.
Cutting the C's off is easy.
If for some reason you change your mind on this project. Hang on to this axle for parts. Look for a F250-F150 axle (Pre77) I bought my housing bare with no knuckles, brakes,hubs...nothing. If you find a F250 axle you will need everything from the knuckle out to change to 5 on 5.5. Buying that stuff new or looking around for used is a pain. The prices on this stuff has shot thru the roof since I put mine together.
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'78-'79 F350 axles are highly sought after. If he found a match D60, he could use the axle, go full width and use some HMMWV wheels or something with similar offset and be no wider then a stock YJ with 3.75" BS wheels.
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The radius arm wedges can easily be cut off.
Aren't some cast and some welded to the axle? Not sure you can do anything with the cast wedges.
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Aren't some cast and some welded to the axle? Not sure you can do anything with the cast wedges.
I thought they were welded, but I am not an expert on them. But like I said earlier if he changes his mind hang on to it for parts.
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From: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44.htm
Recommendation:
The best Dana 44's are the 1976-1977 units with 297x u-joints, disc brakes and weld on radius arm mounting brackets (wedgies) that can be cut off. These should all be reverse cut high pinion units. The 1978-1979 units are just as good as long as you want to retain the factory style radius arms. The axle tubes are pressed in to a casting for the radius arms and do not go all the way through it. This means you can't just cut the mounts off like you can on the previous year axles. It is possible to shorten these axles for use with radius arms though. For more information click HERE. If you wanted to use the 1989 [I think they meant 78 here] -1979 Dana 44 for a leaf spring or link suspension setup, you would have to completely rebuild the housing with new tubes.
The other axle of choice would be the 1977-1979 F-150 Super Cab or 1978-1979 F-250 Dana 44's that were setup for leafs. Remember that'll you'll have an 8-lug wheel bolt pattern with the F-250 axles.
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The other axle of choice would be the 1977-1979 F-150 Super Cab or 1978-1979 F-250 Dana 44's that were setup for leafs. Remember that'll you'll have an 8-lug wheel bolt pattern with the F-250 axles.
That is why he should hang on to the one he has if he is not going to use it. The knuckles out can be used on a F250 D44 and give him the correct 5 lug pattern.
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A local jeeper built a TJ with radius arms (extended beyond stock length) recently. He used 78-79 F-150 axles full width. It works very well. Maybe the YJ could be converted to radius arms to simplify the use of the purchased axle and get more front flex all at once.
Another friend built a TJ with full width Ford truck axles (Dana 44 and 9"). He has the 5 lug pattern and had no trouble with the link suspension so it must have been an super cab F-150. I mention this because it might be a good option to buy the front and rear axles together and then not worry so much about the bolt patterns.