4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: aka-justin on November 14, 2010, 07:39:01 PM
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I'm looking at a new bumper for my Jeep. I'm talking with thedirtworx, a local fabricator, to get a rear bumper. Asking for the d-ring one with aux light tabs and an added frame support. He e-mailed me back and said it should hold 500lb tounge weight and should be about $165 (unfinished). I'm just going to rattle can it black for now.
I want to be able to stack my platform with wood and no worry.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TLn2KUdqPbI/AAAAAAAABFQ/cjoks9O56Ys/s640/IMG_1342.JPG)
http://www.thedirtworx.com/
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TOCc0Pr5y0I/AAAAAAAABZQ/Ssifu7cgcYc/6fc8_3.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TOCc0ZV5eNI/AAAAAAAABZU/W6o0tdJq-H4/s640/db4c_3.jpg)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TOCc0fgr2iI/AAAAAAAABZY/ySctEYidaR8/s640/f9e1_3.jpg)
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looks solid :thumb:
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Not bad looking.
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Very similar to mine wish I had put my receiver up high like yours i put it under and it gets caught on stuff
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looks bawlzy dude, I'm shopping around for a bumper like that for a while...instead of spray painting it maybe you should use black bedliner ???. It would be a little heavier but it would look sweet and add some durability to it
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looks bawlzy dude, I'm shopping around for a bumper like that for a while...instead of spray painting it maybe you should use black bedliner ???. It would be a little heavier but it would look sweet and add some durability to it
Paint is very low maintenance and easy to touch up. If you're going to be wheeling it, the bumpers are going to get scraped up. Even regular driving will chip the finish over time. Make a hole in bedliner and you could contaminate the metal under the surrounding area and have rust under the liner. Same thing happens with powdercoating if you live in the rust belt.
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I have the Dirtworxs tire swing and jerry can holder umper. It is a very stout setup. His welds are good.
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Paint is very low maintenance and easy to touch up. If you're going to be wheeling it, the bumpers are going to get scraped up. Even regular driving will chip the finish over time. Make a hole in bedliner and you could contaminate the metal under the surrounding area and have rust under the liner. Same thing happens with powdercoating if you live in the rust belt.
on second thought, don''t bedline it, that would suck
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on second thought, don''t bedline it, that would suck
HAHAHA, I appreaciate everyones comments. I should have it on by the weekend. I'll be sure to snap pictures and add less dialogue.
Just thought I'd mention, if you google thedirtworx, some people in the past have some complaints about his swing-aways. Just thought I'd add that FYI, I have no desire for one right now, that's why I choose this.
L8r
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It looks great. I would consider some rear crossmember reinforcement with 3/16" plate and welded with gussets to the frame (like was posted by oldjeep in his project thread) and getting rid of the under-the-frame tabs. The reason for this is that I had trouble with the spring eye (with boomerang shackles) hitting the bolt head under the frame, no reason to limit the shackle movement if it can be avoided.
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if you have a swinging tire carior i would keep the bottom bolt, i ran just the gussets (be-it they where just bolted on each end) and the bumper kept relaxing overtime and would allowed the tire carrier to not keep in contact with the stops for it.. adding the bottom bolt helped stiffen the entire thing up alot. you may be ok with out the bottom bolt but keep it in mind... (either way i would have the extra plate brace to the frame that was mentioned. )
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I'm bummed. I just ordered a YJ Rear Bumper Frame Kit from 4wd.com. The picture was of the TJ installed (bolts only), apparently after checking the Rockhard4x4parts.com catalog, the RH2001-YJ kit says (welding required). Now I'm bummed. Won't have this all put together for a while. :brick: I have to drop the gas tank, schedule and tow my pile to a welder, disconnect the rear leafs, ...
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TOSEOCG_D0I/AAAAAAAABZ8/UWKcLaOPrYg/s640/IMG_1602.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TOSEO9cV4GI/AAAAAAAABaA/IkzSOwEKPQE/s640/IMG_1605.JPG)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TOSEPsUl77I/AAAAAAAABaE/_sc7FuvlF5Q/s640/IMG_1607.JPG)
Brighter side, hopefully my bumpers ready for pickup tomorrow afternoon.
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http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=14311
(http://www.4wd.com/aux_incl/images.ashx?i=RH2001YJ.jpg&partNo=RFP&w=380)
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hmm that gusset looks very restrictive to shackle movement
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hmm that gusset looks very restrictive to shackle movement
that gusset would need to be trimmed for proper shackle movement. You will also need to grind off the paint/powdercoat before welding too. Looks like you could bolt it on once prepped and bring it to your welder person. I don't think the tank will need to be dropped or the shackle removed.
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http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=14311
(http://www.4wd.com/aux_incl/images.ashx?i=RH2001YJ.jpg&partNo=RFP&w=380)
this is for a TJ, there's no shackle.
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this is for a TJ, there's no shackle.
Should have went outside and looked under there. That shows me for slacking. Hopefully Griffith Welding in San Jacinto won't charge me too much, but I'll have to wait until after pay day now.
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Once itīs trimmed it should work well and give you a good strong bumper attachment.
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Should have went outside and looked under there. That shows me for slacking. Hopefully Griffith Welding in San Jacinto won't charge me too much, but I'll have to wait until after pay day now.
this one is fine, i don't think it would restrict the shackle movement, that gusset would be farther away from the shackle once is tucked in there
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TOSEPsUl77I/AAAAAAAABaE/_sc7FuvlF5Q/s640/IMG_1607.JPG)
the other one is longer and cannot be installed on the YJ, that's all i was saying.
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Just picked up the bumper. Robert did a great job.
http://picasaweb.google.com/cajeeper/RearBumper#5541122140858166514
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TOYFPFsolrI/AAAAAAAABbA/gYQ1k7lro0E/s640/IMG_1732.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TOYFQ8A5G7I/AAAAAAAABbQ/fZy_CY-fJ7I/s640/IMG_1735.JPG)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TOYFRXUEe-I/AAAAAAAABbU/86RTxbbxsl4/s640/IMG_1736.JPG)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TOYFSUc8kGI/AAAAAAAABbc/G116Asz95Cw/s640/IMG_1738.JPG)
I'll have more pictures after I paint and install it this weekend. Robert said he's almost positive I won't need the reinforcements. I'm going to load up some weight and test it out. Worse case, I'll need to have them welded on.
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If I was ddoing it I'd just weld it in, You don't need a 100% perimeter
weld, just jack by the frame and unhook the bottom of the rear shackle
and rotate it out of the way....
Your not close enough to hurt the fuel tank... Why drop it?
Dave
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If I was ddoing it I'd just weld it in, You don't need a 100% perimeter
weld, just jack by the frame and unhook the bottom of the rear shackle
and rotate it out of the way....
Your not close enough to hurt the fuel tank... Why drop it?
Dave
Yeah, you're right. I was just frustrated. Guess it couldn't hurt, might as well.
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Welding should work fine. It will be welded behind the shackle so it is not a part of the frame that has to hold up a lot of weight. Pretty safe spot to weld.
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My friends helping me prime and paint the bumper and just got the brackets welded on by Steve at Griffith Welding in San Jacinto. Should have the black paint on by today's or tomorrow's end.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TPApxK-nMEI/AAAAAAAABck/rACNCXeOVA4/s800/IMAG0094.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TPApxhSsTeI/AAAAAAAABco/SwjSbT6cXK4/s800/IMAG0097.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TPApynoQ4LI/AAAAAAAABcs/y_NNYivyT1o/s800/IMAG0105.jpg)
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It looks good. It should work well with the stock shacles but you might need to trim it a bit if you later get boomerang shackles without the narrower central part. With the stock shackles you will also most likely not have any hitting with the under-frame bolt head but you would with boomerang shackles.
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Should have it mounted tomorrow. :naughty:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TPcSvbpQTWI/AAAAAAAABdA/qOkb9gFWWuo/s800/IMAG0108.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TPcSwJDDa2I/AAAAAAAABdE/lP02LfehOyE/s800/IMAG0109.jpg)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TPcSw_LCDBI/AAAAAAAABdI/n2Oysj0BSK4/s800/IMAG0111.jpg)
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Dude, Santa and his Elves are dead in your yard!
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Dude, Santa and his Elves are dead in your yard!
:roflol:
man, nothing gets by you - you always see this stuff, i was only looking at the bumper.
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It's on! :biggrin:
Ordered two KC 26 Series 2x6 driving lights on sale for only $12 each from 4wheelparts.com ($32 - 20 Rebate).
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lighting-and-Lighting-Accessories/26-Series-Long-Range-Light.aspx?t_c=14&t_s=448&t_pt=4242&t_pl=10170&t_pn=K%2fC1762
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TPkVYWqSKsI/AAAAAAAABds/e-yAPnSmKIs/s800/IMAG0113.jpg)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TPkVYr_CXQI/AAAAAAAABdw/1pmUaDBNBAs/s800/IMAG0114.jpg)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TPkVY2VneRI/AAAAAAAABd0/1AAFk5qzJEg/s800/IMAG0115.jpg)
(http://www.4wheelparts.com/aux_incl/images.ashx?i=1762.jpg&w=380&h=0&partNo=K/C&jeep-parts=true)
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It looks great.
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Just beware with that location, if you back into something or get rear ended, the lights are toast. At least they're cheap. I've been using a old PIAA in a similar location since I don't even have a rear bumper.
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Yeah
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LAST UPDATE:
Put on the platform, jumped on it with my 290lb fat a$$ (Just in case it failed, I put it on video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwgozXxWSHo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwgozXxWSHo)); didn't hit the ground, so good to go. I also placed the lights; they'll be wired up over vacation. I'll post any troubles that I run into. The cost creeped up higher than I expected, but I'm very happy and got what I wanted.
Total cost
$165 Bumper and bolts - The Dirtworx in Corona, CA (www.thedirtworx.com)
$28 Primer, Rags, 400 grit wet dry sand paper, Lacquer Thinner, and Mineral Spirits
$0 Black Automotive paint and application both from friend
$44 Reinforcement Brackets - RH2001-YJ
$28 (2) D-Rings - W/I2100
$20 Welding Brackets
$30 (2) KC 1762 Driving Lights on sale
$0 Relay, wire, and fuse - Already on-hand
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$315
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TQVsMD8x3fI/AAAAAAAABhw/v_i2tLHP3c8/s800/2010-12-12_15-43-36_433.jpg)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TQVsMmMaExI/AAAAAAAABh0/cy_6rGT7y2s/s800/2010-12-12_15-45-02_433.jpg)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TQVsOfE1Z-I/AAAAAAAABh8/Y9k1hM4BjrE/s800/2010-12-12_16-13-25_492.jpg)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9m5QCar1AqI/TQVsNzH0-qI/AAAAAAAABh4/O5PyWnDOKNc/s800/2010-12-12_16-12-42_976.jpg)
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Like I said i have the Dirtworks tire swing with jerry can holder and like it but the Ratttle is killing me!
I'm finally gonna rebuild a new tire swing using the rear bumper from dirtworks and gonna put new lights recessed in the bumper.
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Like I said i have the Dirtworks tire swing with jerry can holder and like it but the Ratttle is killing me!
I'm finally gonna rebuild a new tire swing using the rear bumper from dirtworks and gonna put new lights recessed in the bumper.
I've only heard a shackle once or twice, but the monster banks exhaust is more distracting to me ;)
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Its the tire swing that rattles. I think its because the tire sits to far from the tailgate because of the jerrycans. With a 33" the weight might be to much at that distance.
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Its the tire swing that rattles. I think its because the tire sits to far from the tailgate because of the jerrycans. With a 33" the weight might be to much at that distance.
Extend the bumpstops on the tailgate so it doesn't rattle. The vibrations will fatigue the welds.