4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: stan98tj on November 16, 2010, 07:15:07 PM
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Got my tires. now to look at my regear options. Not many shops here in CT, i was able to reach one this afternoon and the guy quoted front and rear regear at about $2300. This seemed kind of high, and is out of my price range for now. Is this what i should be expecting? He also advised i should gear to 4.10 given my 3spd auto.
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parts would run you about 500 bucks, 600 at the most so yeah quite expensive.
1800 bucks for labor is pretty high at a 80 dollar hourly rate they would have to charge you for about 22.5 hours labor to set up 2 axles. On average it would take no more than 5 hours an axle at the most. Some take 2 hours or so if you are lucky and get it right the first time.
I regear axles out of the jeep for around 200 bucks labor a piece as a hobby
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Got my tires. now to look at my regear options. Not many shops here in CT, i was able to reach one this afternoon and the guy quoted front and rear regear at about $2300. This seemed kind of high, and is out of my price range for now. Is this what i should be expecting? He also advised i should gear to 4.10 given my 3spd auto.
If you're going to go with 4.10's then you would be better off spending the money on two complete axles from a 4banger manual. Should be around $5-700, I'd imagine. Then you would have a spare set.
If you go to 4x4 shops, I'm sure won't find anyone for under $1500. Try speed shops that work on race cars. They do gears all the time and should be able to get it done for less then $2300. If you pull your axles, they might even cut you a deal. You might have to supply the gears but it's not a big deal. Shop around for gears as well. Spicers are usually more expensive then Yukon, Superior or anyone else. Make sure you buy decent master install kits. Ones that come with carrier bearings.
It's been a while since I bought my gears but I bought Spicer 4.56's with Yukon Master install kits for $416. That's with a 7.25% sales tax too. IIRC other brands were close to $100 less.
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410 should be ok if you stay on 31s. 33s you would want 456 bc of the auto. Jesse James runs 456 and has auto. He runs 33 on street and has 36 for the trail. in chicago the going rate for a mechanic doing it on the side is bout 300 an axle labor. Personnely I put a 5.2l in for about 2g and I was down for 4months. I am not bashing but doing 75 at 1700 rpms is sweet :weee:. To be honest there was a few times over the summer I was kicking myself for not just regearing. In the end I am happy with it know but I sacrificed a whole summer worth of wheeling
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when i got my gears done front and rear they said it called for 12 to 14 hours of labor i think all together with parts and labor it ran between 1500 and 1600
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i called another place and was estimated around $1800...an improvement over $2300. the reason i guess the first guy wanted to do 4.10 was so he could put a Ford rear end in the jeep. I want to put a locker in the front, and he said it was a waste of $$ as i wont improve traction much if at all. he said to put the locker in the rear-and that meant looking at a different axle-hence, the ford.
Id like to put the locker up front, what do you guys think. Id only do it if i can get the re-gear done for 1500 or less. If you guys think the same as him, that a locker up front isnt gonna do much then maybe i ought to reconsider.
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I have a locrite in front and love it. You will have noticably improved traction with it up front. My rear is 8.8 w lsd. But locrite went in first.
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i know quite a few people that went front locker before rear. i went rear locker then added the front and found that when i only had the rear locker if i wanted to play in the rocks the front had a tendency to have a tire come to a big rock stop and the back push the jeep making it pivot about that rock which isn't fun in some (most) situations. i would assume by doing a front locker you wouldn't have that problem if you only have 1 locker.
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i figured i would just lock the front since i only wanted to spend $$ on one locker..and i keep reading the d35 doesnt like to be locked esp with larger tires. figured i go up obsticles front way first so a fwd locker should help. Just wanted to know what you guys thought about that. So basically ill be goin to 4.56 and should expect the job to cost about $1600. I read somewhere online (maybe jeepforum) ppl getting it done for $800-1000. why cant i be so lucky lol.
how will the jeep drive, by the way, with the 4.56 gears? faster? slower? suck down more gas?
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A few years back when I had money to put into the Jeep, I had ARB's installed front and rear when I regeared. Made a big difference when crawling. With the lockers I was able to creep where others took the "heavy foot" option. I did put 4.10's in when I regeared, but have regretted going with those. Would like to gear again with 4.56 or 4.88's. Not sure which ones yet, but I too run an auto. The 4.10 were an improvement, but with 33's, they weren't enough. Think I can get more power on the road and better gas milage with another gear change.
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I hate to see you getting quotes for that much... keep looking!
http://www.rockyour4x4.us/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=12&category_id=4&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=29
Link included only for reference. I've not had my tj regeared, but I've been told that its 1000 to 1200 in my area (E. TN). Above link is for 1150, though there is no listed info on if that includes gears (not likely), and that a 500mi follow up service is not included in that price. By the way, that was the first regear price I even checked in my area, so I'm guessing I could find better if I dug. Good luck!
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im gonna keep calling around but i dont think it will get any better than $15-1600. im prob gonna have to hold off on the locker for now.
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You should make friends that are mechanics like me then they will do it for free!!!!! :dance: :spam:
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Ive been wondering about something concerning the regear. According to the charts i will be at about 3k rpm at 65 if i regear to 4.56. What i want to know is will the jeep be pushing hard at this speed? is going to be howling at 3k? When im driving along and start to go uphill and i want to maintain a certain speed the jeep spools up to 3k and accelerates but you can hear the engine has a load on it. it pretty much howls. If im on a flat stretch though, i can cruise to 70 mph and it will climb to about 3k but it isnt pushing hard so it's not screaming. Im wondering if the engine will be strained and howling at 65 or reach that speed easily and not be screaming.
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Ive been wondering about something concerning the regear. According to the charts i will be at about 3k rpm at 65 if i regear to 4.56. What i want to know is will the jeep be pushing hard at this speed? is going to be howling at 3k? When im driving along and start to go uphill and i want to maintain a certain speed the jeep spools up to 3k and accelerates but you can hear the engine has a load on it. it pretty much howls. If im on a flat stretch though, i can cruise to 70 mph and it will climb to about 3k but it isnt pushing hard so it's not screaming. Im wondering if the engine will be strained and howling at 65 or reach that speed easily and not be screaming.
No. For a vehicle that doesn't have a OD, 3000 RPM is pretty normal for 65MPH. If you're not using to using the whole powerband, 3000 RPM might seem high. I'd say 3700 RPM is getting high and over 4000 would be screaming. If you drop below 3000 too much, the Jeep will struggle to stay at speed.
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one of the shops im talking to is tryin to talk me into 4.10 over 4.56 because they figure if i go with 4.56, when i downshift i will spool up well farther than 3k (maybe into 3500-3700 ) and that would be screaming to stay at speed (going up a hill etc). they are afraid it will harm the motor.
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one of the shops im talking to is tryin to talk me into 4.10 over 4.56 because they figure if i go with 4.56, when i downshift i will spool up well farther than 3k (maybe into 3500-3700 ) and that would be screaming to stay at speed (going up a hill etc). they are afraid it will harm the motor.
I've crawled up I-5's Grapevine which is a really steep climb doing 4000 RPM for about 15-20 minutes before. It gets loud and angry. What you want to do is to plug in all of your ratios into the Java calculator on jeeptech.com. It's at the bottom. Gearing & Tires or something like that. It will give you all of the Speeds/RPM's for all of your gears plotted out on a graph. Then use that to decide.
If I know there is a hill, I'll speed up in 4th (1:1, your 3rd) to get the RPM's higher up so when I hit the hill, and the RPM's drop, I will have enough to not have to downshift. Otherwise it kinda sucks having to shift into 3rd and rev it up and hold it there.
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Totally anecdotal from me but here goes....
My YJ has 220K miles on it, at 150K I had a race engine mechanic rebuild it.
After 150K miles of shifting at redline, and often way past redline,
The only really worn parts were the rings, main and rod bearings. Bores valves pistons looked great.
I really drive hard I regularly tow a small trailer and pull long passes at 3500 to 4200 rpm.
I have run Synthetic oil most of the jeeps life...
I usually run 87 octane gas. Unless its over 75 degrees out then I jump to premium.
I have had 4.56 gears since about 12K miles.
My rule of thumb is you cruise at about 60% of the redline of the engine and your fine.
I wish I had done 4.88 becasue 5th is still a little marginal on the high way on 33" tires,
I recently down stepped to 32's and it runs great and gets a bit better mileage.
Thats my twist on it...
Dave
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If u plan arb or ox locker do it now and save. They replace the carrier and you get chargged for a second regear to be set up right. A lokrite or aussie can be added in a driveway fairly easily
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one of the shops im talking to is tryin to talk me into 4.10 over 4.56 because they figure if i go with 4.56, when i downshift i will spool up well farther than 3k (maybe into 3500-3700 ) and that would be screaming to stay at speed (going up a hill etc). they are afraid it will harm the motor.
if you have a manual transmission you should go with 4.88 if you have 33' tires. dunno with an automatic (can't remember what you have).
EDIT: nevermind, you have an auto transmission, just re-read your first post so disregard this
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I have 4.88 and 33' tires set up which goes well for me...
With an automatic?
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im going to be skipping out on the locker this time around. When i do go ahead and lock it will be between a true track and an e-locker.
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im going to be skipping out on the locker this time around. When i do go ahead and lock it will be between a true track and an e-locker.
Just be aware a Tru-Trac isn't a locker.
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Just be aware a Tru-Trac isn't a locker.
im aware. but ive read a bunch of reviews and people seem really happy with it.
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im aware. but ive read a bunch of reviews and people seem really happy with it.
It depends on what you want. If you need locker then you should get lockers.
I run a Tru-Trac/Detroit combo.
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Make sure you torque the third member bolts annually or better. I blew one totally when the bolts came out....
Dave
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Make sure you torque the third member bolts annually or better. I blew one totally when the bolts came out....
Dave
what do you mean?
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I've crawled up I-5's Grapevine which is a really steep climb doing 4000 RPM for about 15-20 minutes before. It gets loud and angry. What you want to do is to plug in all of your ratios into the Java calculator on jeeptech.com. It's at the bottom. Gearing & Tires or something like that. It will give you all of the Speeds/RPM's for all of your gears plotted out on a graph. Then use that to decide.
If I know there is a hill, I'll speed up in 4th (1:1, your 3rd) to get the RPM's higher up so when I hit the hill, and the RPM's drop, I will have enough to not have to downshift. Otherwise it kinda sucks having to shift into 3rd and rev it up and hold it there.
4k for 15-20min? i cant imagine the noise. mine screams at a hair over 3k. Basically i dont want to have to be at 3k or over for the entire highway ride. The calculators say ill be at around 3k at 65. i usually drive 60-65. 4.10s arent as good as 4.56 but the shops around here that are tryin to convince me that way are telling me that 4.10s are better highway gears than 4.56 for a 3spd auto. They say the 4.10s will be better than the stock gears both highway and offroad. My jeep has lost power but ive adapted to it. the highway ride isnt too bad. im still leaning towards 4.56 but the 4.10 guys put up a good argument. Id hate to gear to 4.56 and find myself sucking fuel down like crazy and screamin at 3k or over for the entire highway ride and then have to gear to 4.10. Of course id hate gearing to 4.10 and not having enough power to shift to 3rd and be stuck in 2nd most of the time. Then again with 3.73 i have the power to shift through all thgears....
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You're also forgetting that not having low enough gears sucks down mileage as well. The engine is designed to run in a certain RPM range. 3000 RPM is not that high. The powerband should start around 2700RPM and go to 3600 RPM If you run too close to the low end you'll quickly fall out of the power band if you hit any hill. I think, you'll have to come to the conclusion you will need to be at 3K @ 65MPH. That's pretty normal for a non-OD vehicle. Otherwise go to 31's or try some 33x10.5's.
I'm sure I've said this before but you can probably buy a 4.10/4.11 - 30/35 combo from a 2.5L manual for $600 or so. If you sold your axles you could be in it for maybe $300. or keep them for spares. You could also try to hunt down a 2004 TJ 2.4L with 4.56's stock, but they are really rare. Still probably less then $1000.