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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Dangerros on February 15, 2006, 09:51:30 PM
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First of all I have a stock 95 YJ w/ 2.5L and the question is: I would you recomend for tires? I was thinking of going with 30's because its a daily diver and if I went with 30's would I need a lift? If so how high should I go? I was considering going with a 2.5 lift but not quite sure what manafacturer to choose. Also if I went with 30's would I have to swap out the gears to like 4:10s? Oh yea I have another problem, I change mufflers every friggin year and am sick of it. Is it because of my cheap after market cat convertor, that is destroyinig the insides of my muffler?
Thanks for reading and any information about the above stated would be great!
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First of all I have a stock 95 YJ w/ 2.5L and the question is: I would you recomend for tires? I was thinking of going with 30's because its a daily diver and if I went with 30's would I need a lift? If so how high should I go? I was considering going with a 2.5 lift but not quite sure what manafacturer to choose. Also if I went with 30's would I have to swap out the gears to like 4:10s? Oh yea I have another problem, I change mufflers every friggin year and am sick of it. Is it because of my cheap after market cat convertor, that is destroyinig the insides of my muffler?
Thanks for reading and any information about the above stated would be great!
i went with 29s on mine i wanted to do a little when i got it, but could not afford the lift yet. the 30s rubbed a little durring hard turning and rubbed when flexing. if you have your heart set on 30s get a 1in body lift. there cheap enough. (http://jeeperz.tenmagazines.com/forums/images/2cents.gif)
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30's worked great on my stock yj when i had them and never rubbed and my old springs were quite sagged. You probably already have 4.11 gearing to begin with. I'd say go with 30 inches... it doesnt leave for a lot of room under the flares but a 1 inch body lift would help that plenty if you needed to.
-Chad
Edit: I probably should mention i did not have stock rims on mine... I had a different offset so that's why mine probably did not rub.
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29's were the tallest stock tires for the 2.5L's. You should be able to clear 30's fine. 31's will even fit with a little rubbing under compression.
What is happening to the muffler? Personally, I went and bought a Borla with a lifetime warranty. I've replaced the muffler twice already and had it replaced. Currently it's broken again. The muffler works but the hanger broke off. Not only that but the rear hanger broke off too. I'm waiting till I fix some other things before I call up Borla.
Basically, it's no questions asked. They take your CC and then send the parts out. You send the old parts back and they don't charge you.
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I thought I was running 30's, but it turns out mine are just 29's (235/75). The only thing is that even with these 29s, my front tires were hitting the leaf springs on tight turns. So, I decided to keep the stock wheels and just add 1.25 inch aluminum spacers all around and that basically fixed the rub problem (installed right, good spacers work fine and even add a little stability).
But, after all the talk of 30s and even 31s fitting on an unlifted suspension, I am kind of surprised I had to buy spacers with just 29s; but width is width. Be warned if you have stock rims and 29s.
And, I thought the springs on my YJ were not exactly sagging either. A sizing chart I used stated that the 235/75s Revos I bought would fit even if the leaf springs were sagging; chart did not mention rub against springs with stock rims.
Cost for all this:
Tires, About $360 at Tire Rack including shipping
Mounting, About $30
Spacers, (4) $100 + $20 install
Ticks me off a little because the whole spacer/install deal ended up tacking on about a 30% cost penalty to the tire purchase that I was not expecting. If figured I was being conservative with a purchase of 235/75s and that no contact would possibly occurr. But, on the bright side, it all looks good.
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A bit too late but, you could have adjusted the steering stops for next to nothing. You'd reduce your overall steering radius but then you probably wouldn't have noticed any difference.
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Oh, didn't think of adjusting stops. but, the guy didn't mention adjusting stops in the link i was using. Therefore, I must track him down and pursue this matter due to my great anger, kidding; actually looks very excellent.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39873 is the post where I acted on the tip.
Ahh, no biggie, my original owners manual said 225 was max, so I am the one who was rolling the dice.
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Jeep adjusted the stops from the factory?
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Jeep adjusted the stops from the factory?
Sort of. There is a bolt that has a nut welded to it that is the steering stop. Basically it's set and that it. You can take the bolt out with the nut together and slip in some washers to keep the tires from rubbing.
As for Jeepforums, some of the stuff there is alright. They love their 4.0L's, 8.8" and Lock-rights. :roll:
I'm a long time member...
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I've got 30" Dunlop Mud Rovers and they are awesome... They rub slightly at full lock and flex... not enough to worry about.
BTW - I love my 8.8" !
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From my before and after post....
January 15, 2006
(http://static.flickr.com/38/87821596_d947c5eb91_o.jpg)
January 16, 2006 (also removed the front bumper flotation devices)
(http://static.flickr.com/42/87821594_5a3055282f_o.jpg)
Need side steps next, then bumpers and the Thule spare tire mounted bike rack....then soft tops before it gets warm.
No problems with the 31's at all...and they look cool.
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As for Jeepforums, some of the stuff there is alright. They love their 4.0L's, 8.8" and Lock-rights. :roll:
I'm a long time member...
LOL. I love how they all swear that i will murder my d35 with a super 35 kit and an auburn ected with a 4 banger and 33's. Someone always knows a guy who twisted an axle with a s 35 on 31s witha 4 banger! Guess we all need to run out and get rockwells!!:roll:
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Based on the wisdom of the Jeep forums, it would appear that the D35 and axle breakage go together like housecats and sleeping.
On this board alone, I think I've read a couple of people have snapped them running 31" tires and the 4cyl while wheeling. And using the D35 with 33" tires and just the 4cyl engine looks like a serious potential problem off-road (see Jeffy's photos of guys with broken D35s)
So, I was on the Quadratec site today looking to replace my shredded YJ carpeting. I happened again upon the company's 3 stage buildup photos of a Red 4.0 TJ, again, and read them each in detail. I was a little surprised by what I read. Here's how their 3 stage TJ buildups breakdown in the tire/axle category:
1) Stage 1: 31" tires, D30/D35, 4.0L
2) Stage 2: 33" tires, gear change, D30/D35, rear auto locker, mod 4.0L
3) Stage 3: 36" tires, gear change, D30 and D35 "Superkit," 2 ARBs, more heavily modded 4.0L.
When they get up to 36" tires on the stage 3 they finally change the axle shafts and I guess install a truss of some kind as part of the D35 Superkit. But, unless these "Stage" examples are on-road all the time, it almost seems like Quadratec is being a little negligent with their advice regarding adequate real-world, Jeep off-road setups.
It would seem like the correct tire/axle setup for each "Stage" off-road, at least according to this forum, would be:
1) Stage 1: 31" tires, D30/at least D35 "Superkit" or consider rear swap, 2.5L
2) Stage 2: 33" tires, Axle swap to D44s or Ford 8.8s (or if you you have a soft-spot for the D35, a "Superkit," but risking a bent housing, if no truss, which could affect safety and road-worthiness), gear change, lockers, mod 2.5L
3) Stage 3: 36" tires, Axe swap to D44s or Ford 8.8s, gear change, 2 ARBs or other driver-adjustable lockers, highly modified 2.5L or swap.
I'm guessing you could maybe get away with the example Quadratec Setups 80% of the time you are off-road, rock-crawling. But, that other 20% bothers me.
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I agree! I've seen and heard of so many D35's breaking, that I can't imagine a reputable company like that, suggesting 36's and a D35 :? No matter how trussed up that thing is, it's just not wise.
Things break just as much on the street as it does off-road.
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Was looking through that build-up Quadratec page again. :idea: I am wondering whether regearing when using 33-36 inch tires (lower gearing/bigger tires) causes the D35 to experience the same acceptable twisting stresses as it would experience were it wearing Stock tires to -31"s. Thus, regearing saves the D35? That might be the Quadratec angle.
What do you guys think :?:
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The problem with the D35 is not only torque but also axle flex. The axle tubes flex quite a bit. The shafts are always breaking at the taper before the splines. A 30 spline kit would help with the axle shaft braking buy the flex is what eats side gears. Truss would be an option, but then you're still limited to 4.88:1 as the lowest gears and the 7.5" ring gear. Lots of stuff stacked against you.
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and then add it all up...
add up trussing, R&P, super kits, type of carriers, bearing kit...
Then find a junkyard D44 and add up a similar carrier, R&P, bearings... without trussing, financially it may be the same price, or minimally more... But overall well worth it.
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Superior used to sell an axle truss for the 35. It is my understanding that they discontinued the sale due to the fact that there wasnt really a need for it or it didnt do anything? anyone know about this?
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I think the reason it didn't sell was the fact that it cost $300. Does the axle need it, I think so.
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But when it comes to trussing an axle (well a D35 to be exact) would require trussing for forward and backward twisting, but also up and down motions...
Sounds like you can make a D35 with less ground clearance than a D60.
Here's a 9" with a back truss (I know... 9", not D35)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c33/SMC4WD/CE0010.jpg)
And here's Con-ferr's truss
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c33/SMC4WD/CE0011.jpg)
Mmmm pretty, huh??
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Those old con-ferr's eat up a huge amount of clearance and the skid turns into a shovel. Same goes for the Go Rhino.
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I think the reason it didn't sell was the fact that it cost $300. Does the axle need it, I think so.
I found this http://www.mosesludel.com/news/index.php?itemid=36&catid=4 while searching where to buy a superior truss. Sounds to me like they think that the 35 truss isnt needed unless you have 35s do serious wheeling, in those cases those ppl usually swap axles anyways, so they couldnt sell any of them. I think i want one anyways. I already did a super 35 kit and an auburn ected, so swapping axles would not really be an option yet. (in the future i want to get an avenger, nv4500, atlas II, and f and r dana 44s, and an r.e. 5.5 long arm kit, and 36's. )
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Well if you can weld, it might be better to make your own. I've seen some awesome stuff done for Jeepspeed trucks. You'll loose a bit of clearance but you'll gain a lot of strength. Although, all the trussing is for the D30. They all get rid of the D35c even running 32's.
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Id think long term and save money. Tires are an addiction. Ive been through 30's 31's, I know have 32's and looking for 33's. Think long term and save money. Do me a favor and don't make the same mistake that i have wasting thousands of dollars. Upgrade the axles or swap, get a lift and the tire you want.
Trevor
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Id think long term and save money. Tires are an addiction. Ive been through 30's 31's, I know have 32's and looking for 33's. Think long term and save money. Do me a favor and don't make the same mistake that i have wasting thousands of dollars. Upgrade the axles or swap, get a lift and the tire you want.
Trevor
Nah, the 33's are plenty big enough for me. I only have a 4 cylinder and its slo enough on the highway as it is. Its not quite a daily driver, but it is my only car (i drive a company truck for my job, so do not commute daily in my jeep) Plus I rarely rock crawl, I am more into trails. I had 31s for 3 years on my yj, and am perfectly content with the 33's. Plus, i already have quite abit of $$ in my 35, so whats 300 more? the in the future comment was more of a dream than a reality, and if that was to come, im sure i wouldnt care about 1200 spent years ago on an axle!