4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: 4BangerTJ on January 16, 2011, 11:20:13 AM
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Ok so this 99 TJ is my first ever jeep so I really don't even know its capabilites considering all I ever drove was jacked up chevys so bare wth me. So I have come to the decision that I wanna do some 33s will I later on decide t change out the axles with dana 44s. So with that being said I do not plan on doing some crazy rock crawling I just wanna go down some more challenging trailes than my chevys were capable of. This is also my daily driver. Now I am not the kinda guy that cares a lot about it keeping factory ride quality. With all that being said I need to know what kind and size lift I should go with. I have heard a lot about re and ome lifts but I am open to anything. What size should I go with as I want tht beefy look but really don't wanna have to mod a lot of the drivetrain right now till I decide to go bigger later. I hae heard that anything above 3" you will have vibration issues and have to change a lot more but don't know how true that is. Also I keep hearing about motor mount lifts and quick discnnects for th sway bars. Are they really needed and what do they do? Any advice would be great.
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I don't have a TJ but this is what i would do
2'' lift
1'' body lift
I think on a TJ with 3'' total would clear 33s and you might get away in the back adjusting the arms to get the right driveshaft angle and not having to install transfer case lowering kit or SYE
the TJ guys can be more specific on options (how to adjust the arms or what lift etc) and if this would clear the tires.
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I would run no more then 1.5" body lift.
If you're going to stick with 33's then there isn't any reason to go with a fancy long arm suspension. I'd go with a Rubicon Express 3.5". It's a well established kit and very popular. Should come with almost everything you'll need as well.
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/SuspensionSystems/Product.aspx?part=RE7003
For shocks I would go with Bilstein 5100 or 5150's if you want to get fancy.
You will also want to get a Slip Yoke Eliminator though if you want to do it right. There are a lot of companies that makes a SYE.
Got wheels you will want 4.75" BS if you want the tires to stay somewhat under the flares. This also helps the wheel bearings although I've never heard of it being an issue really. 3.75" is common for those running 35's so there is still some steering radius left. 4" is probably the more common size but that really pushes the tires outside the flares and starts to throw a lot of crap up onto the sides and windshield. Then you're looking at wider flares to fix that.
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So are you saying to run the re 3.5 lift and a 1" body lift or just th lift itself. Is a sye all that I would need with it and what exactly does that do? Also can you give m anymore info on what the motor mount lifts do and the quick disconnects for the sway bar, are they worth it? thanks.
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So are you saying to run the re 3.5 lift and a 1" body lift or just th lift itself. Is a sye all that I would need with it and what exactly does that do? Also can you give m anymore info on what the motor mount lifts do and the quick disconnects for the sway bar, are they worth it? thanks.
Forget the body lift. You don't need one for 33's.
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A slip yoke eliminator (SYE) replaces the slip yoke output of your transfer case with a fixed yoke, enabling you to run a rear driveshaft with a double cardan (CV) joint. Its purpose is to prevent driveline vibes when you lift the Jeep. Motor mount lifts kinda serve the same purpose, they angle the driveline so as to reduce vibes... the other method most commonly used for vibes is a transfer case drop (spacers placed between the transfer case skid plate and the frame to alter driveline angles).
Sway bar disconnects are used so you can keep the bar connected on road for better handling, then disconnect the sway bar for off road driving to increase articulation. Having increased articulation means your suspension will flex better and keep the wheels in contact with the ground which aids your traction (it reduces having a wheel lifted in the air).
To clear 33" tires without fender trimming, it's recommended to run about 3-3.5 inches of lift... you can do that with a straight suspension lift or with a combination of suspension and body lifts (ie run a 3.5" susp lift or a 2.5" susp and 1" body lift). Running 33" tires wider than 10.5 inches will require either new wheels with less backspacing, wheel spacers, or some creative clearancing in your wheel wells with a BFH.
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Ok I have been reading a bit about the re lifts a lot and they seem to get good reviews. Now what benefits do you get going with full suspension lift like the re lift versus going with a small lift and a body lift? I get the info you are saying on the wheels and did plan on going with some aftermarket steel wheels with 33x10.50x15s so I should be ok wth the offset part of that. Also if you use an sye dos that mean you have to run a new driveshat cause I was really trying to stay away from going that far till I do 35s later. The re kit come with a transfer case drop would that sufice? thanks.
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Also one other question. If I were to go ahead and put a dana 44 in it now, are there mods needed to make any old dana 44 fit or should I look for ones from a certain model or are there none that will bolt strraight up? And also what might be a good price ifi were to search for one? Jus the part itself. thanks
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Also one other question. If I were to go ahead and put a dana 44 in it now, are there mods needed to make any old dana 44 fit or should I look for ones from a certain model or are there none that will bolt strraight up? And also what might be a good price ifi were to search for one? Jus the part itself. thanks
Only bolt in 44 would be from a TJ Rubicon, everything else will require atleast welding on new brackets, depending on where you get the axle will make a big difference on what will have to be done to make everything work, bolt patterns and brakes and such, the Rubicon 44 will be a direct replacement, everything else requires mods.
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Good to know. thanks.
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Anyone got any info on the prior post?
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Anyone got any info on the prior post?
For a rear D44 a lot of TJ's came with them after 98. Look for a Sahara package. From what I understand they all came with a D44 rear. It's a direct swap. Your D30 will be fine with 33 inch tires.
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Got ya. Now when it comes to full suspension lifts versus like a smaller lift and body lift or a spacer and body lift, what are the pros and cons of each style lift? Also if I use an sye dos that mean I have to replace the driveshaft?
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Also if I get a kit with a transfer case drop would that sufice or would I still need an sye?
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Got ya. Now when it comes to full suspension lifts versus like a smaller lift and body lift or a spacer and body lift, what are the pros and cons of each style lift? Also if I use an sye dos that mean I have to replace the driveshaft?
Yes you would need a new shaft.
Also if I get a kit with a transfer case drop would that sufice or would I still need an sye?
Depends on how much lift you end up with. A small lift should be fine without the SYE. You could install the lift and if you get vibes then a SYE could be installed.
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Ok I think ill do that and see first. Do you have any knowledge as far as lifts go to be able to explain the pros and cons of a full suspension lift versus a small suspension lift and small body versus cil spacers and a body lift?
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Ok I think ill do that and see first. Do you have any knowledge as far as lifts go to be able to explain the pros and cons of a full suspension lift versus a small suspension lift and small body versus cil spacers and a body lift?
My theory for lifts is this. Smallest lift you need for the size tire you want to run. I am a leaf spring guy not a coil spring. But with the TJ lifts the money starts going up big time when new control arms are needed. There are lots of options so prices vary. You really don't need a long arm kit with a 33 inch tire.
With the complete package you are getting the MFG designed the kit to do. If you want just the springs or spacers with the shorter lifts it might not work as well since it's not the full meal deal.
I would agree with others on the body lift. I say if your gonna do one do a 1 to 1.25 inch. If you can get away with it then don't run one.
For TJ's it seems 3.5-4 inch is needed to clear a 33. There are lots of options for kits and companies. RE,Currie,Full Traction,Superlift come to mind. Lots of guy's I run with run either RE or Currie.
I thought coil spacers where needed if your Jeep does not sit level front to back, or if you need a bit more clearance.
You need to ask your self what you are going to use your Jeep for. IE daily driver, trail queen, how big a tire your gonna end up with ETC.
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I'm not a TJ owner myself so all my advice is all based on friends that have TJ's and what I've seen work well.
If I was building a TJ for 33's I would do a 2.5" spring lift (4wd hardware brand rund OME springs last I heard and is a good price) add to that 1 or 1.25" body lift with a 1" mm lift to correct the drive shaft angle w/o going to a dropped t-case. I would then buy a Aussie locker for the rear maybe one for the front too, and wheel it. Of course I would armour first if playing in the rocks to keep the body alive.
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Another option is to forget about a lift, get sway bar disconnects, and trim or get new fenders, JP Magazine built a Jeep on 35's and 40's with no lift, http://www.jpmagazine.com/projectbuild/154_0807_1994_no_lift_jeep_wrangler_part_1/index.html
http://www.jpmagazine.com/projectbuild/154_0503_1998_jeep_wrangler_tj_tire_fitting/index.html
then you wouldn't have to worry about driveshafts and it will be low stable
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Ok thanks guys very good info. I think I'm gonna search for a good 3-3.5" suspension lift maybe ome or re at a good price and do the 1" body and the mm lift. thanks
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A friend has the RE 3.5 super flex lift and it has worked very well.
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Hmm well I just ran across a great deal on a 92 wrangler I may scoop up with a 4.0 in it. I have a question though. How do those differ from the TJs suspension? Are they harder or easier to lift ad also what axles do those have D44 or D35?
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The axle is still the D35. They have leaf springs. About the same difficulty to lift, just install the kit.
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Hmm well I just ran across a great deal on a 92 wrangler I may scoop up with a 4.0 in it. I have a question though. How do those differ from the TJs suspension? Are they harder or easier to lift ad also what axles do those have D44 or D35?
Lifts are typically cheaper and easier to install. YJ's only really came with Dana 30 and Dana 35C in the US. CA had some with Dana 44's but they are rare. It's easier to find an XJ D44 and swap it in or else go with a Ford 8.8".
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I don't know a whole lot about jeeps. what is an average price for one in decent shape? Are the 4.0s much more powerful? Which model suspension is better off road?
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bump
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I don't know a whole lot about jeeps. what is an average price for one in decent shape? Are the 4.0s much more powerful? Which model suspension is better off road?
on a TJ i think long arm suspension is the best (compared to the ones that keep the stock length arms).
4.0 has more power and quite a bit more torque but it is also heavier. It will of course outperform the 4banger on the hwy, offroad the differences are not that obvious, but again it is a larger engine so there are some differences.
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I don't know a whole lot about jeeps. what is an average price for one in decent shape? Are the 4.0s much more powerful? Which model suspension is better off road?
The coil sprung Jeeps flex/ride better than the ones with leafs.
The 4.0 has about 40 more horsepower than the 2.5, plus lots more torque.
Prices vary around the country hard to say on that one.
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4.0 has more power and quite a bit more torque but it is also heavier. It will of course outperform the 4banger on the hwy, offroad the differences are not that obvious, but again it is a larger engine so there are some differences.
I'll second that; if geared properly, a 4banger will hold its own to a I6 off road no problem. But on the highway, the I6 will smoke you!
As far as prices, it depends on model, year and condition. I bought a nicely built '94 YJ for a friend a few years back (33's, 4" lift, I6, Sahara model, Ox Lockers, Mean Green Alternator, Mean Green Starter, Flex-a-lite fan, soft top, bumpers and a few other goodies) for $4.5K in south FL. If you get a built one, you will probably have to drop less coin in parts, but more likely than not, the rig WILL have been wheeled (so more risk of hidden damage). A stocker will be a bit cheaper, but you will need to drop more coin to build it up.
As far as which model is better offroad, both the YJ and TJ are VERY capable, even in stock form. As far as engine, also both are very capable offroad. The main difference in engine I feel you will get ON road, but the I6 will always have more torque (more weight also). I personally prefer the YJ because it is easier to lift than the TJ (you dont have to worry about long arm kits), but htat's just personal preference.
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Just want to add that in really slow going off-road the 2.5 uses A LOT less gas than the 4.0. I've seen 4.0 Jeeps down to less that 1/4 tank with the 2.5 still around 1/2 tank or more
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i put a 4 inch zone lift on my tj and 33s with a transfercase drop and it fits 33s with room to flex. The kit rides pretty well on the road havent had a chance to take it off road yet but no vibes gone down the road, u might want to check it out