4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: jcrockarell9937 on January 19, 2011, 11:32:34 AM
-
Hello. I posted under the introduction about my setup but here it is again real quick. 98 Jeep TJ, stock 15 in alloy wheels, 31x10.5 r15 tires, and no lift. Of course with the 4 cylinder engine. I was hoping to put just a 1.75 to 2inch spacer lift on it and upgrade tires and wheels. I would like to have 31 or 32in tires on a 15 wheel. What tire/wheel combo and lift is too much for the engine?I have no performance parts on the engine. Thanks
Jonathan
-
There really is no 'too much' as you can always regear. Personally, I either go with 31x10.5R15's, 33x9.5R15's or 33x10.5R15's. Although if you're on a budget then stick with the 31's and do a budget boost lift. Gearing will suffer even with 32's. I drove for several years with 32's and stock gearing. I think the tanner, but narrow tires would have been better for on-road without losing much in off-road.
Here's one running a 1.25 ACOS and 33x10.5R15. You can see how low it sits but it doesn't look bad since the tires sit under the stock flares. ACOS would be a better investment then a BB lift but costs more. But then you can dial them to up to 4" lift. All you would really need afterwards are control arms.
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo27/IIVIIonster04/_MG_2570.jpg)
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo27/IIVIIonster04/_MG_2562-1.jpg)
This one has a 2.5" BB lift with 33x10R15's.
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/P8ntblr160/11aa6e0b.jpg)
You will want to keep in mind that wheel offset/backspacing is really important. Don't just throw on any set of wheels. Going wide puts more stress on the wheel bearings.
Here's another 2" with 33's
(http://i26.tinypic.com/5k4pzq.jpg)
31x10.5R15 with no lift.
(http://inlinethumb61.webshots.com/42428/2927634390038400845S600x600Q85.jpg)
31x10.5R15 with 2.5" lift
(http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/39499/2024672120038400845S600x600Q85.jpg)
-
Thanks abunch. I'm researching acos kits now. But I'm not all that techy per say, so as far as gearing goes, what would i have to do?
-
Thanks abunch. I'm researching acos kits now. But I'm not all that techy per say, so as far as gearing goes, what would i have to do?
Pay someone to install the gears. You're looking at $400-500 for the parts alone. Then anywhere from $200-1000 in labor. It's not cheap. Which is why I recommend going skinny on the 33's. They have a smaller contact patch and a lower roll resistance. Not to mention less unsprung weight which all means less of a burden on the engine. Otherwise stick with your 31's and maybe add a little lift.
-
I think I probably will stick with the 31s. I am on a budget so I'll probably go with a budget spacer and aftermarket wheels. I do go out on the trails a couple of times a month(Land between the Lakes in TN, nothing challenging) but i still want that agreesive look you know?
-
My first question is how much highway do you run? if it's not that much I would go with a 3-4 inch even if you get 31's to start. you know later you will want to go at least that tall & usually it isn't that much more to go 4 inch lift vs 2inch lift. and you would get new springs and shocks in most kits going that tall.
I loved mine with 4 inch lift and 31's i had lots of room to flex.
-
i ran 31x10.5 Dakota MTs from Pepboys (price is cheap but they are nice quality) on the stock suspension for over a year and hit the trails as often as i could. the jeep did fine. Those 31s did real well on road (snow, rain etc) and they did pretty well off road. They have a nice agressive look and fit nicely with the stock suspension. Then i wanted some lift, so i went with a 2.5" Rough Country. Under 300 bucks, new shocks and springs. Easy to install even if you dont have much experience. Grab a friend or two and you should be fine. Now im at 33x12" on the 2.5" lift going to 3.25".
here is the jeep with 31s on stock suspension
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww339/domeslacker/Jeep%20Upstate%20NY/DSCF0017.jpg)
and again on stock suspension:
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww339/domeslacker/shady%20lane%202/n718026174_1380796_36001.jpg)
here is the jeep with the rough country 2.5" on 31s:
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww339/domeslacker/shady%20lane%202/new%20lift/DSCF3235.jpg)
and again on the 2.5"with 31s:
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww339/domeslacker/CT%20wheeling/DSCF4084.jpg)
and here as it sits today on 33x12" tires with the 2.5" RC lift:
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww339/domeslacker/new%20tires%202010/DSCF4492.jpg)
-
Well I do run alot of highway as the jeep is my daily driver and work is about 15-20 miles away. The jeep is fine now(no problems with getting to 70mph). I just dont want to put too much of a tire.
-
Well I do run alot of highway as the jeep is my daily driver and work is about 15-20 miles away. The jeep is fine now(no problems with getting to 70mph). I just dont want to put too much of a tire.
Stick with 31's or skinny 33's.
-
i second jeffy's last post
-
i second jeffy's last post
+1 with stock gears.
depending what your future plans/budge are with the jeep for the budget lift or going that little extra mile..
if your going to plan to make this more of a off road ring your going to want min 4 inches of lift and 33's under it "future plans"
For your main topic I would say there is no such thing as to much if it's build properly. there is only to much if it's not done properly and can cause damage or death!! I have seen some very shady home made lifts witch left us dragging there ass the rest of the day after the first hole!!!
thats why I recommend doing a bit more then you need of the start, and most 3-4 inch kits come with new shocks and arms and bushings witch would be all new parts!! not just a set of spacers on your old springs bushings etc..
I completely understand if you don't have the budget if you just want to get that little extra temperately for 31's and plan on getting a good lift later on..
mainly I upgrade when something wears out that way you just not replacing the worn part with factory your upgrading!!
happy trails.. hope to see your jeep grow.
-
Thanks for all the suggestions and replys. As far as future plans, this jeep will probably be used more for the highway. But on the other hand, me and my friends do go out to the trails 2-3 times a month. Could I go with a wider 31?
-
Thanks for all the suggestions and replys. As far as future plans, this jeep will probably be used more for the highway. But on the other hand, me and my friends do go out to the trails 2-3 times a month. Could I go with a wider 31?
wider wont' make much diff.
go 31x10.5 until you go bigger
-
Yea that is whats on it now, 31x10.54\r15. Another question is that the stock wheels are 15x7. The aftermarket ones I'm looking at are 15x8. Will that make the tires stick out more?
-
Yea that is whats on it now, 31x10.54\r15. Another question is that the stock wheels are 15x7. The aftermarket ones I'm looking at are 15x8. Will that make the tires stick out more?
more off-set. wider won't matter if there not off-set at all
-
if you want to def stay at a 31" tall tire then i would stay at the standard 31x10.50. Tread and tire quality is what will make the most difference in my opinion. I ran with a Pepboy tire: Dakota MT. in my opinion, those were a wonderful tire. Not expensive, lasted a good while and did real well off road. My buddy who i 4x4 with has 31" BFG All Terrains on his 4.0l TJ and ive had to pull him out of mud multiple times while i CRAWLED right through with no problem. those tires had some great grip. Also, if you do end up wanting to go bigger but want to keep it narrower than the standard 33x12.50, Dakota also makes the equivalent of a 33x11.50 MT. At the time i was shopping for an upgrade, that was the size i wanted but they were on back order so i ended up going with the Toyos.
-
Yea that is whats on it now, 31x10.54\r15. Another question is that the stock wheels are 15x7. The aftermarket ones I'm looking at are 15x8. Will that make the tires stick out more?
Wheel width will change the actual tire height some. Although running a 10.5" tires on a 8" wheel doesn't give you much sidewall protection when airing down. And if you are down too much you run the change of unseating the bead. Wheel offset & Backspacing are what make your tires rub or stick out. To keep the wheels under the stock flares you'll have to pay close attention to them.
Back to the wheel and tire height. A narrower wheel will pinch the sidewalls in a bit. This causes the tire to have an overinflated appearance and as such you will run on the center of the tread more then the outers. To counter this you lower the tire pressure to regain a flat contact patch. The problem with this is that you are running less air so the tire heats up a bit more. Also depending on the combination, the tires might feel mushy.
For 10.5" wide tires 7" is a good choice though. You could run as little as 6" or as much as 8" though.
-
Thanks yall. There's a shop about an hour and a half specializing in off road performance. i'll probably make a trip down there to see what they can offer. Sorry for all the questions, just new to the jeep and offroad thing.
-
Thanks yall. There's a shop about an hour and a half specializing in off road performance. i'll probably make a trip down there to see what they can offer. Sorry for all the questions, just new to the jeep and offroad thing.
:thumb: better to ask then find out the hard way
-
Well I'm probably going to hold off now. Ended up getting into an accident so now i need a bumper(or try and straighten it out) and some minor body work. Anyone know where I can get a single piece of fender flare for the right front side.
-
Well I'm probably going to hold off now. Ended up getting into an accident so now i need a bumper(or try and straighten it out) and some minor body work. Anyone know where I can get a single piece of fender flare for the right front side.
quadratec.com or 4wd.com
-
Well I'm probably going to hold off now. Ended up getting into an accident so now i need a bumper(or try and straighten it out) and some minor body work. Anyone know where I can get a single piece of fender flare for the right front side.
sounds like you and the jeep are ok. that is a positive thing. wouldnt this be the best time to upgrade that front bumper to an aftermarket bumper...perhaps one with a winch mount and aux light brakets :naughty:
-
Yea the jeep and myself are good to go. And yes that was excatly what I was thinking
-
sounds like you and the jeep are ok. that is a positive thing. wouldnt this be the best time to upgrade that front bumper to an aftermarket bumper...perhaps one with a winch mount and aux light brakets :naughty:
:thumb:
-
Just curious on what everyone thinks with a 1.75-2inch lift with 32x11.5r15s? I'm I gonna be ok. I dont need to go over 65-70mph, just want something that will look good and help me out on the trails?
-
Just curious on what everyone thinks with a 1.75-2inch lift with 32x11.5r15s? I'm I gonna be ok. I dont need to go over 65-70mph, just want something that will look good and help me out on the trails?
Spacer lifts are OK.
-
Just curious on what everyone thinks with a 1.75-2inch lift with 32x11.5r15s? I'm I gonna be ok. I dont need to go over 65-70mph, just want something that will look good and help me out on the trails?
why not get a lift that replaces your springs and shocks that will improve 4x4 performance rather than a body spacer that doesnt do much? 2 - 2.5" is modest enough and not over the top. 2.5" lifts for the most part are designed for 32s.
-
why not get a lift that replaces your springs and shocks that will improve 4x4 performance rather than a body spacer that doesnt do much? 2 - 2.5" is modest enough and not over the top. 2.5" lifts for the most part are designed for 32s.
I think he's talking about Budget Boosts not Body Lifts.
-
I was thinking about the coil spacer kits. Is that considered a body lift?
-
I was thinking about the coil spacer kits. Is that considered a body lift?
no, a body lift is raising the distance between the frame and the body by using longer (thicker) body mounts. a 1 inch BL (body lift) is ok and just gives you an extra inch of clearance at the fender - so going from 31 to 33'' tires for example can be handled with adding the body lift (1 inch difference in radius on the tire) but it will not give you any extra belly clearance except for the extra inch given by the tire.
-
So I'll still get some clearance with the spacer kit
-
If you plan on just coil spacing and staying under 2" i would suggest staying with 31s rather than going to 32s. I think 32s may be too big and you may have problems rubbing or stuffing in the flare when you go off road.
-
Yea I keep reminding myself I'm on budget.
-
Yea I keep reminding myself I'm on budget.
Dakota MTs from pepboys arent expensive. they offer the 31x10.5. RC 2.5" full lift is under 300 bucks. If you are only doing spacers id stay with the 31s to make sure you get the proper clearance
-
I'm sorry again for all the questions but a coworker was talking about front lockers? What exactly are those and are they needed?
-
I'm sorry again for all the questions but a coworker was talking about front lockers? What exactly are those and are they needed?
you know when you're in the mud or snow and one wheel spins while the one on the other side is just standing still (because it has more grip)? a locker makes both wheels turn together, it basically locks the differential so there is no compensation between left and right wheel on an axle. A differential compensates between difference in travel between left and right side (when you turn because the wheels on the inside of the turn are on a smaller radius of the turn) - that is when you are on pavement and both wheels have grip, when you are in low grip situation the downside of a diff is that the wheel that has grip and could move the vehicle forward would stand still while the other wheel with low or no grip would spin and you go nowhere - that's where the locker comes in play.
-
Lockers enable the wheels on the axle to rotate at the same speed rather than transfering power from one end to the other which often results in one wheel spinning while the other remains stuck. They help you crawl over obstacles because no matter what the traction the wheels will continue to rotate together. For light wheeling, you don't need them. Ive done light-moderate wheeling on 31s and still dont have a locker. Of course if you have the extra $$ to spend (and many of these lockers aren't cheap) it couldnt hurt to put one in. It would make the trails a ton easier...but if they already arent very challenging, do you really need it?
-
Most people think 4 wheel drive means all 4 tires get power when the 4WD is engaged. Not so much.
-
Ok well that makes since. And yea I can see that they are a little pricey!
-
Ok with tax returns comin up, nows the time I'm doing my purchasing. Just a few quick ?s before I order.
I think I'm going to go ahead and go with 32x11.5r15 inch tires, so with that being said,
Do i need to regear(jeep is stock, not quite sure what gear ratio it has now)?
If yes, what ratio?
I do drive hwy alot but no interstate, so as long as she can get to around 60 and not hog gas(as I get about 17mpg now).
Thanks again
-
For manual transmission
-
For manual transmission
Still not a fan of 32x11.5R15's and that's after owning them.
Regear to 4.88's if you're going to bother to regear. There isn't that much of a difference between 4.56's and 4.88's but there is between 4.10 and 4.88's.
Gas mileage will go down.
-
Why not a fan of the 32s. Still suggest skinny 33s?
-
Why not a fan of the 32s. Still suggest skinny 33s?
That's what I would do.
-
Well with that being said would I have to gear over 4.88
-
and where is the skinny tire thread?
-
Well with that being said would I have to gear over 4.88
4.88 is as low as you can go with the stock axles. So if your gonna regear go as low as you can IMO.
-
and where is the skinny tire thread?
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,9494.0.html
It was about 4 topics lower than this thread...
-
http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,9494.0.html
It was about 4 topics lower than this thread...
Sorry, the topic with pizza cutter threw me
-
33 & 4.88 is just like stock final ratio
-
another thing to keep in mind when you start going bigger than 31" tires would be your dana 35 rear end... it can be the weak link in your jeep and 33" tires could put it under alot of strain.. I built my jeep fairly cheaply, and being that your on a budget figured i would throw my .02. I started with 31x10.50's on stock lift and gearing, being that the jeep is my daily driver there are often times i wish i left it like that. you can add an aussie locker up front for around $250.00 as far as bang for your buck this will do more than increased tire sizes or extra hp.. i got bored and added a 2" coil spacer lift and 33x12.50's the lift cost around 200 and i cleared the 33's ok, added a 1" body lift to stop tires from rubbing when i turn. That being said i believe the 2.5" rc lift that has been mentioned would have been my better option. Up till now i had this on stock gearing and the difference between the 31's and 33's is enormous, if regearing is not in your near future i would probably stay with the 31's. If you plan on using that income tax check then you should check out the thread "axles" to see about upgrading your d35.
Welcome to the board, one thing i like about this place is you dont have a bunch of people immediately telling you to check the FAQ, people are extremely willing to give you answers so feel free to keep the questions coming
-
another thing to keep in mind when you start going bigger than 31" tires would be your dana 35 rear end... it can be the weak link in your jeep and 33" tires could put it under alot of strain.. I built my jeep fairly cheaply, and being that your on a budget figured i would throw my .02. I started with 31x10.50's on stock lift and gearing, being that the jeep is my daily driver there are often times i wish i left it like that. you can add an aussie locker up front for around $250.00 as far as bang for your buck this will do more than increased tire sizes or extra hp.. i got bored and added a 2" coil spacer lift and 33x12.50's the lift cost around 200 and i cleared the 33's ok, added a 1" body lift to stop tires from rubbing when i turn. That being said i believe the 2.5" rc lift that has been mentioned would have been my better option. Up till now i had this on stock gearing and the difference between the 31's and 33's is enormous, if regearing is not in your near future i would probably stay with the 31's. If you plan on using that income tax check then you should check out the thread "axles" to see about upgrading your d35.
Welcome to the board, one thing i like about this place is you dont have a bunch of people immediately telling you to check the FAQ, people are extremely willing to give you answers so feel free to keep the questions coming
This is why I've recommended skinny 33's. There are many advantages and it is less of a compromise then the 32's. If he goes with 10.5's instead of 12.5's he'll be closer to the weight of his 31's. If you look on the Skinny tire thread, I have a list of tire specs. for KM2's. Even though it's for one tire, this should be indicative of other models and even other brands. The specs show a 33x10.5R15 is only 4lbs heaver then a 31x10.5R15. It is also 9lbs lighter then a 33x12.5R15. Roll resistance should be about the same with 31's as the contact patch is going to be smaller for the same PSI. He's already looking to install a lift as well so clearing 33's shouldn't be a problem. The power hit between 32x11.5R15's and 33x12.5R15's is about the same. But like I said the the second post, I'd either stick with 31's or go to skinny 33's if I was in his shoes. For every day driving, it's the best compromise between on and offroad. More like 80/20, in favor of pavement which is usually less then what most daily drivers do.
As for the Dana 35. If he's not locked then it's not going to be a problem. Although it's still not advised to use the fists of ham approach. Spider gears are usually the weak spot with open diffs. The axle housing can flex a lot still which puts leverage on the side gears and causes them to crack.
-
Thanks alot for the input. After reading and figuring prices I finally came to terms that this jeep is gonna be 95 percent highway and 5 percent offroad. I looked at quadratec's 97 tj build which inclued 2inch spacers with shocks, 15x8 wheels and 31x10.5 tires. I like the look of it. I just dont want to have too much lift and the jeep not look "off"(ie too much lift making tires look small)
-
Thanks alot for the input. After reading and figuring prices I finally came to terms that this jeep is gonna be 95 percent highway and 5 percent offroad. I looked at quadratec's 97 tj build which inclued 2inch spacers with shocks, 15x8 wheels and 31x10.5 tires. I like the look of it. I just dont want to have too much lift and the jeep not look "off"(ie too much lift making tires look small)
Well, you don't really need 15x8's. You can use 15x6's or even 15x7's. Actually 15x7's are probably what you want. The good thing is most Jeeps come with 15x7's. If you do get new wheels pay very close attention to wheel backspacing.
-
Is it less backspacing the farther ther stick out?
-
Is it less backspacing the farther ther stick out?
Yes. Stock wheels have 5.5". This usually rubs a little at full turn and when under compression but can be fixed. For 10.5's you could use as much as 4.75" would be good. I'd go no less then 4.5" though.
-
Wow the 15x8 wheels I was wanting are backspaced at 3 and 5/8 :puzzled:
-
Wow the 15x8 wheels I was wanting are backspaced at 3 and 5/8 :puzzled:
Typical for a 8". They are normally used for 12.5" and work nicely with 35x12.5R15's and not rub.
-
yep, i have 3.75 b/s with 33x12.5 and they don't rub in the leaf springs, i had 31s with stock like b/s rims and had to adjust the stops on the knuckles or they would rub against the leafs.
-
I'm running 31's on this one regeared to 4:88s puts it right back to stock gearing. bought a cheap 2.5 Rough country lift and put on it. At the same time i put in a HP30 with a aussie locker and a ford 8.8 with a lsd.
(http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/5104/1000203m.jpg)
Shot at 2011-01-31
(http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/2558/1000202q.jpg)
Shot at 2011-01-31
-
Hey no luck do you have pics of it sitting flat. And will the 3 and 5/8 bs wheela not work
-
Not at the moment I can get one but there is a white jeep one the first page that has the same Rough Country 2.5" lift on 31's http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php/topic,9480.0.html
I needed 4.5 BS cause the Ford 8.8 is 5/8" narrower a side, just wanted to make sure they would noy rub. But I did not want to have them sticky way out with only a 3 5/8 BS
-
And will the 3 and 5/8 bs wheel not work
3-5/8" will work but they push the tires outside the flares unnecessarily. It's a commonly done though, either by mistake or unintentionally. Most people don't know that wheels are available with different BS and j Running with excessive wheel BS is harder on wheels bearings. If you're still insistent on running them that wide then you'll have to get wider flares. If not to be legal then to keep all the crap the tires fling up off the windows.
3 5/8" = 3.625" which is really going to push the tires out.
Here's a YJ with 3.75" BS and no lift.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2175/2484131815_bca1f168b1.jpg)
Here's another TJ with 15x8's and what looks like 3.75" BS with 31x10.5R15's. The tires stick out around 3" last the flares.
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff282/WJ04/jeep004.jpg)
TJ with what looks like the same wheels and tires with Bushwacker 6" extended flares to cover the flares.
(http://www.shrockworks.com/files/cache/7794ab07a5241c87ee94b9620285cbd8.jpg)
-
Hey folks, its been a while since I've been on here. Hope all is well. Ive been busy with work and school so the jeep upgrades have slowed to a halt. Ive picked my tires and wheels out but again with the general opinion questions.
Tires: 31x10.5r15
Wheels: 15x8
Question: 1.75 superlift spacer lift with shocks or daystar 0.75(3.4in) spacers without shocks?
I just dont want the jeep to look "tippy toed"
-
I still say no less then 4.25". 4.75" would be good.
-
YOu mean 1.75in?
-
YOu mean 1.75in?
No, wheel backspacing not lift.
For a spacer lift, less is more. Unless you want to bite the bullet and do it properly, don't lift it a lot.
-
Yea sorry Jeffy I meant to put coil spacers instead of just spacers. The wheels are stock wheels so they dont stick out hardly at all. I was just curious on the 1.75 inch coil spacers or the daystar 0.75 in coil spacers. With 31 in tires, I dint want too much lift.
-
Yea sorry Jeffy I meant to put coil spacers instead of just spacers. The wheels are stock wheels so they dont stick out hardly at all. I was just curious on the 1.75 inch coil spacers or the daystar 0.75 in coil spacers. With 31 in tires, I dint want too much lift.
What wheels do you have? If they're Moab's or 5-Holes then they're 5" IIRC. Should be fine for 31's. If you don't want lift then go with the least amount.
-
Well. A friend of mine is selling his cragar soft 8s 15 inch 5 on 4.5 for cheap. I think they're 4 inch backspace but not a 100 percent. My only concern is that is there a big weight difference between the cragar soft 8s and the stock wheels?
-
Well. A friend of mine is selling his cragar soft 8s 15 inch 5 on 4.5 for cheap. I think they're 4 inch backspace but not a 100 percent. My only concern is that is there a big weight difference between the cragar soft 8s and the stock wheels?
It depends on what your stock wheels are. You said they're aluminum so I would have to say yes. Especially if they're 15x7's. My aluminum 15x8.5's were lighter then my steel 15x7's.
-
They're the 5 spole wheels. Is the extra weight enough to not get them...like compromise gas mileage?
-
They're the 5 spole wheels. Is the extra weight enough to not get them...like compromise gas mileage?
Are you buying them purely for gas mileage? I doubt the weight difference is going to do much. Maybe, don't eat lunch and you'll break even.
-
No I just like the look of black steelys .