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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: minespath on March 09, 2011, 06:20:59 PM
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looking to put a super 35 with a arb locker ,have a auto 97 tj with 161000 miles and 31s goin to 32s or 33s down road .its mostly dd ,with lite wheelin ,greens and blue trails.dont know if i want to go to a d44 axle complete that bolts in from 4wd or qtech,if i can get by with a super 35, also will be puting in 4.56 gears soon
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I can't see spending $1200-1600 on the D35. That would go a long way towards a new axle.
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I can't see spending $1200-1600 on the D35. That would go a long way towards a new axle.
+1 and why not for future gearing!!!
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Another one for no more money on the D35.
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you guys are just envious for the less drivetrain losses on the D35 carrying all that dead weight on the D44 :ass:
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+3 on ditching the 35
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If you don't plan on going bigger than 33's the Super 35 kit will be great, I would also consider doing just stock speck cromos and the ARB that way you will have spare stock shafts (not that you should ever need them). I would also look at going 4.88 gears when you change.
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the cheapest and probably best way is a ford 8.8, I got mine from pick n pull for $145 31 spline, disk brakes, limited slip, and you can find them with gears to match the front, then I saved the money from the back for a front hp44 with an arb, just another option to confuse you, it all depends on what you want to do with it, plus you can still upgrade the 8.8 and still be cheaper than a bolt in 44
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I have a Super D35 on the rear with ARB lockers and 33's. So far, so good. I also took the oportunity to change to the 31 spline version, since i was putting the locker in at the same time, it was the same cost, but more robust. Now, the reason that people are saying that the SD35 is not as great a choice as the D44 or F8.8 is that the axle is not the only issue with the D35; the housing is also a problem. A friend of mine that came with us on the river trip (white YJ on 35X12.50 creepy crawlers) actually broke the housing of the D35 (and, as you can see in the video, that was not hard wheeling; although, it may hae been "softened" from previous wheeling trips). Also, the D44 will give you better gearing options.
I will not presume to tell you what to do, but, if I MYSELF were to do it all over again, I would go with a D44 from an isuzu rodeo or honda pasport and get the rear disc brakes in the process. Having said all that, mine has not given me any problems so far, but I try not to resolve my stuck issues with excesive use of the right foot!
I also recommend doing the gears at the same time as this mod (if you go ahead with the SD35), as there is no additional labor (since you already need to tear the axle apart).
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I too was askong this same question in a thread a few months back. Do your research. That's all I can say. These guys all have a wealth of knowledge and all they say is true. It will have to be your choice in the end and your money spent. All three axles have pros and cons. Super 35 is the cheaper route to go. Less mods, lighter, but the housing does flex the more you hit the gs and will eventually break. There are a ton of 44 options and they are the next step and will cost about the same to a tad more depending if you get a locker. They are just as beefy stock as a super 35 minus the housing flex. The 8.8 which was my choice will run just the same or a tad more than the super 35 as well but is even stronger than the 44 stock with no housing flex and you get rear disc brakes. The downsideto the is spinning axle tubes which you can eliminate by welding them. I think I am pretty accurate in my info but everyone feel free to correct me if I'm off. Hope this helps.
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I'm a big fan of the 8.8, but it's not a bolt-in. If you have fabrication skills or a bud that does, the 8.8 can provide lots of strength for not much money. I have the superior super 88 kit and a Blue Torch Fab Works diff cover for my 8.8. The housing does stick down a little bit more, and it has a "lip" that can hang - we plated the bottom of mine to smooth the hump.
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love my 8.8. i am on 35s with a v8 now and no issues. tubes welded. in retro i would have gone open since lunchbox lockers are cheaper but the lsd has served ok since i am locked in front
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Dont they replace the S35 for free if you break it as long as you are on the appropriate size tire? What is the real likely hood of a 4cyl breaking a locked S35 with stock gears? A guy in my club has one and runs the piss out of it on 33x12.50s, no truss either. I'm kinda waiting to see if he blows it up.
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Dont they replace the S35 for free if you break it as long as you are on the appropriate size tire? What is the real likely hood of a 4cyl breaking a locked S35 with stock gears? A guy in my club has one and runs the piss out of it on 33x12.50s, no truss either. I'm kinda waiting to see if he blows it up.
Keep in mind, they may replace the shafts, but what if the housing breaks, like it happened to my buddy? Sure, he runs 35's and a detroit locker on the rear, but still, it CAN happen. I have yet to damage mine, as stated, but this is one of the few thngs I would do different on my Jeep if I were to do it over again...
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good advice. I think that just pushed me over to 8.8 and not a S35. I tend to be hard on my stock 35 the way it is bouncing off rocks and such.
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I probbely spent 1200 on my rear D44 swap..thats including the rear disc brakes I put on it..
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I probbely spent 1200 on my rear D44 swap..thats including the rear disc brakes I put on it..
That's about as much as I spent on my SD35 (alloys, ARB) with no disc brake.
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I spent around $900 on my D44 including the gears, drum rebuilds and the Detroit. I saw able to trade up from a D35 Detroit Gearless so the Softlocker was cheap.
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From everything I have read and people I have talked to about the s35, for the money , it's a worthy upgrade for the rear. By the time you buy a used d44, go through it to make sure all the components are good, regear if needed and add an ARB you're still in the $1300-$1400 range or more. The s35 kit from Superior will run around $1200 with an ARB included. Truss a 35? personally I see no need unless you are a skinny pedal to the floor all the time wheeler. With the 35 you'll keep the weight down. The smaller pumpkin gives a bit more clearance. The performance difference between the stock d44 and the s35 will be minimal behind a 2.5l. 33's will be no trouble at all for the s35, 35's are as big as I would go on any 2.5l The Super 35 upgrade is one that I will be doing in the near future. BTW this is all based on setting up the kit yourself or going through the d44 yourself. Farm out the work and the price jumps big time. IMHO
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Now this is just for me of course - but I finally got time to speak to a friend of mine that owns a 4x4 shop in the area. (he also knows how i drive and what my end game is for my YJ) he told me not to waste any money on a D35, he said a S35 is a good setup but at the end of the day you can't upgrade the R&P.
With the S35 it does bring the axles up to strength and makes it available to put a locker in it, and you can truss the S35 so the weaker tubes strengthen up a bit. but for the money and time spent on it the 8.8 gets you to a better place.
With that said I'm would ike to go 35-37 inch tires at some point so the S35 would not work for me.
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...but at the end of the day you can't upgrade the R&P.
very correct. On top of that you are also limited to the 4.88 lowest ratio available with the D35.
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With that said I'm would ike to go 35-37 inch tires at some point so the S35 would not work for me.
I would say that for that size, it is better to go to a D44...
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sorry for my poor english in my post - did it at work quickly.
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I was a click of the mouse away from buying the s35 until i stumbled across a rubi 44 on craigslist. Picked it up for $350 after talking the guy down from $600!!.. reason for being so cheap was because the tube was bent. I Had it straightened for 150, installed 4:88's, new driverside axle shaft, and i had a bolt in locked d44 for about $900. I also still need to truss it and sell the dana 35. I think most axle swaps run in the 600-1500 range depending on the axle and what you do to it..
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I was a click of the mouse away from buying the s35 until i stumbled across a rubi 44 on craigslist. Picked it up for $350 after talking the guy down from $600!!.. reason for being so cheap was because the tube was bent. I Had it straightened for 150, installed 4:88's, new driverside axle shaft, and i had a bolt in locked d44 for about $900. I also still need to truss it and sell the dana 35. I think most axle swaps run in the 600-1500 range depending on the axle and what you do to it..
That is a great deal and would void out any intention of my doing the s35.
Good points on tire size and the carrier capacity. I'm still in the 2.5l has restricted buildability mentality, forgive me for I have sinned :bow: :biggrin: But I'm lurnin'
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The s35 in my opinion is a good alternative IF you plan on sticking with 35's or under. I did a whole bunch of research on other forums and I would have bought it if it were not for the deal on cl. So that being said, Im not sure if one should completely rule out the s35 because of what other people say. although the shafts are part of the weak link on the stock 35, the housing that flexes is what tends to break crap. Thats why i plan on trussing my rubi 44 because it has the same diameter tubes as the 35, and not to mention its been bent once before... :thumb:
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for what its worth i put the yukon s35 kit in my jeep, with a detroit softlocker. paid $1100 drop shipped from randys ring and pinion. yukon shafts, yukon r&p, and yukon master install kits. the only reason for mine needing rebuilt is i blew three teeth off the pinion gear.