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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: stan98tj on March 19, 2011, 09:24:03 AM
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Ive begun to notice that i have an engine oil leak. There is a significant amount of oil caked on to the front/bottom of the motor. The jeep drips a slight amount, but most of it is deposited on the motor itself. I'd like to get to cleaning it so i can see if i can spot the leak. Ive been told i can bring it to a truck stop and steam clean it. Im worried the steam would penetrate and harm electronics. I noticed my alternator has an oily/greasy substance (seems thicker than motor oil) on it..so id like to clean it without harming the alternator.
here are some pics so you can see what i'm faced with:
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww339/domeslacker/DSCF4740.jpg)
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww339/domeslacker/DSCF4741.jpg)
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww339/domeslacker/DSCF4742.jpg)
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww339/domeslacker/DSCF4743.jpg)
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww339/domeslacker/DSCF4745.jpg)
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww339/domeslacker/DSCF4744.jpg)
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that's the front crank pulley seal - it will leak more while running than when just sitting. Should be quite easy to replace if you have a puller.
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that's the front crank pulley seal - it will leak more while running than when just sitting. Should be quite easy to replace if you have a puller.
+1
and ya thats a decent leak wow lol
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that's the front crank pulley seal - it will leak more while running than when just sitting. Should be quite easy to replace if you have a puller.
Is that behind the main pulley? And what about cleaning all that deposit? the alternator etc. Steam? will steam damage anything?
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Engine bright from the parts store. Or something that is made to clean off the motor. Or Simple Green. I have used both. I just use a hose to rinse it off.
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Is that behind the main pulley? And what about cleaning all that deposit? the alternator etc. Steam? will steam damage anything?
yes, it's behind the main pulley at the end of the crankshaft. the seal goes into the timing chain cover. like he ^ said use a gunk removal spray or solution, soak it for a while then spray again and use a brush (paint brush) to soften all the cr#p there - you might have to do it a couple of times. take the dist cap and wires off as well as the intake pipe coming from the air box (take the airbox out too as a matter of fact). Tape ziploc bags over the distributor and throttle body and if you're concerned about the PCM might want to take that off too and take plastic/ziploc bags over the connectors. You should be fine power washing it at this point but watch the spray so you don't force water in the connectors, engine etc (plug the breather tube on the valve cover as well).
I'm not sure how well your alternator will survive, once you fix it you might want to just buy a second hand replacement just in case (stock ones go fairly cheap or you can upgrade and hit 2 birds with 1 stone).
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yes, it's behind the main pulley at the end of the crankshaft. the seal goes into the timing chain cover. like he ^ said use a gunk removal spray or solution, soak it for a while then spray again and use a brush (paint brush) to soften all the cr#p there - you might have to do it a couple of times. take the dist cap and wires off as well as the intake pipe coming from the air box (take the airbox out too as a matter of fact). Tape ziploc bags over the distributor and throttle body and if you're concerned about the PCM might want to take that off too and take plastic/ziploc bags over the connectors. You should be fine power washing it at this point but watch the spray so you don't force water in the connectors, engine etc (plug the breather tube on the valve cover as well).
I'm not sure how well your alternator will survive, once you fix it you might want to just buy a second hand replacement just in case (stock ones go fairly cheap or you can upgrade and hit 2 birds with 1 stone).
alt should be ok. get the pulley off change the seal clean everything up. just try to blow out the alternator after that will help keep it from dyeing. I engine shampoo them all the time.
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I like using steam cleaners as they do a really good job especially if you use soap with them. Just don't spray it into the PCM or TB. No scrubbing required. Oh and they will take paint off your thermostat housing if you're not careful.
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I like using steam cleaners as they do a really good job especially if you use soap with them. Just don't spray it into the PCM or TB. No scrubbing required. Oh and they will take paint off your thermostat housing if you're not careful.
if i spray up towards the valve cover, can the steam harm the injectors?
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if i spray up towards the valve cover, can the steam harm the injectors?
No but you shouldn't be holding it in place. Use a fan nozzle and sweep. You don't really want to be spraying it directly into the plugs for the injectors either. If you're worried you can use plastic bags to keep water out of certain things. That's what we'd do. When I steam cleaned I never bothered though.
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Use a fan nozzle and sweep.
the only way i can think of steaming it is at a truck stop, so im not sure if they will have a fan nozzle. I figure ill try it on the lightest setting.
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the only way i can think of steaming it is at a truck stop, so im not sure if they will have a fan nozzle. I figure ill try it on the lightest setting.
If you have a hose you can put on a sprayer to get what pattern you want. Those parts store cans of cleaners do a pretty good job. Granted on the thick stuff it might take a 2nd dose.
Most of the spray booth type car/truck wash don't have hot water,or a adjustable spray pattern.
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the only way i can think of steaming it is at a truck stop, so im not sure if they will have a fan nozzle. I figure ill try it on the lightest setting.
Those are pressure washers usually not steam. They also use a fan nozzle. It's the most common. Steam washers are better then you're normal pressure washer as the steam really helps break up the gunk.
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Those are pressure washers usually not steam. They also use a fan nozzle. It's the most common. Steam washers are better then you're normal pressure washer as the steam really helps break up the gunk.
i think the place on the highway by me is steam..according to ppl around here. it's worth a look. I wanted to use engine cleaner at my local self service car wash, but they had a sign posted forbidding use of outside cleaners. I may just go ahead and use it anyway.
Now: as for the repair...how hard/easy is this? Just pull off the pulley and the seal is right there? Once the fan shroud is off and the belt is out of the way, is this an easy fix? Anything i may need to be aware of?
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i think the place on the highway by me is steam..according to ppl around here. it's worth a look. I wanted to use engine cleaner at my local self service car wash, but they had a sign posted forbidding use of outside cleaners. I may just go ahead and use it anyway.
Now: as for the repair...how hard/easy is this? Just pull off the pulley and the seal is right there? Once the fan shroud is off and the belt is out of the way, is this an easy fix? Anything i may need to be aware of?
they forbid outside cleaners cause they want to make the profit form there own items for sale I bring my own stuff all the time.
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they forbid outside cleaners cause they want to make the profit form there own items for sale I bring my own stuff all the time.
Actually, they don't want you to be using cleaners since the drains are going into storm water. Bio-degradable and all that.
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Actually, they don't want you to be using cleaners since the drains are going into storm water. Bio-degradable and all that.
whatever if your washing down engine bay's and grease I don't understand how a soap wouldn't be worse then that
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does the oil pan have to come off if i take the main pulley out to get to the seal?
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does the oil pan have to come off if i take the main pulley out to get to the seal?
nope, just the pulley
FSM Procedure:
VIBRATION DAMPER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the serpentine drive belt and fan
shroud.
(3) Remove the vibration damper retaining bolt
and washer.
(4) Use Vibration Damper Removal Tool 7697 to remove
the damper from the crankshaft (Fig. 1).
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant
to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the key.
With the key in position, align the keyway on the vibration
damper hub with the crankshaft key and tap
the damper onto the crankshaft.
(2) Install the vibration damper retaining bolt and
washer.
(3) Tighten the damper retaining bolt to 108 Nzm
(80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the serpentine drive belt and tighten to
the specified tension (refer to Group 7, Cooling Systems
for the proper specifications and procedures).
TIMING CASE COVER OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
This procedure is done with the timing case cover
installed.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the serpentine drive belt.
(3) Remove the vibration damper.
(4) Remove the radiator shroud.
(5) Carefully remove the oil seal. Make sure seal
bore is clean.
(6) Position the replacement oil seal on Timing
Case Cover Alignment and Seal Installation Tool
6139 with seal open end facing inward. Apply a light
film of Perfect Seal, or equivalent, on the outside diameter
of the seal. Lightly coat the crankshaft with
engine oil.
(7) Position the tool and seal over the end of the
crankshaft and insert a draw screw tool into Seal Installation
Tool 6139 (Fig. 3). Tighten the nut against
the tool until it contacts the cover.
(8) Remove the tools. Apply a light film of engine
oil on the vibration damper hub contact surface of
the seal.
(9) Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant
to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the key.
With the key inserted in the keyway in the crankshaft,
install the vibration damper, washer and bolt.
Lubricate and tighten the bolt to 108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Install the serpentine belt and tighten to the
specified tension (refer to Group 7, Cooling Systems
for the proper specifications and procedures).
(11) Install the radiator shroud.
(12) Connect negative cable to battery.
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i had both the front crank seal and the timing chain cover seal changed and im still getting oil deposit on the alternator, and it's still dripping. It doesnt look like my valve cover is leaking. I am getting some (very little) leaking from the hose behind the oil cap (CCV?). I think my oil pan may have a leak but im wondering how it could land all over the FRONT of the alternator..moreover, the deposit is thick and very dark.
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i had both the front crank seal and the timing chain cover seal changed and im still getting oil deposit on the alternator, and it's still dripping. It doesnt look like my valve cover is leaking. I am getting some (very little) leaking from the hose behind the oil cap (CCV?). I think my oil pan may have a leak but im wondering how it could land all over the FRONT of the alternator..moreover, the deposit is thick and very dark.
is the seal still leaking (i understand you replaced it but it could be).
just a thought but do yo have auto or manual transmission?
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is the seal still leaking (i understand you replaced it but it could be)
just a thought but do yo have auto or manual transmission?
auto transmission. i brought it to a shop to have the crank seal done. from what i told the guy there he thought it was the crank seal as well..but it's leaking from somewhere else as well
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auto transmission. i brought it to a shop to have the crank seal done. from what i told the guy there he thought it was the crank seal as well..but it's leaking from somewhere else as well
the reason i asked was that it occured to me it could be leaking at the radiator tank where the transmission hoses for the fluid cooler go in and then it's sprayed on the radiator fan and blown over the rest of the engine.
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the reason i asked was that it occured to me it could be leaking at the radiator tank where the transmission hoses for the fluid cooler go in and then it's sprayed on the radiator fan and blown over the rest of the engine.
that happened about 3 months ago. hose blew on the highway. I replaced the 2 myself. one still gets kind of wet and drips a tiny bit..but im unsure if it has the capacity to create the mess im looking it. this stuff is thick..trans fluid isnt this thick. maybe under pressure it has the capacity to blow out? ill have to maybe put on another band and tighten it up a bit.
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that happened about 3 months ago. hose blew on the highway. I replaced the 2 myself. one still gets kind of wet and drips a tiny bit..but im unsure if it has the capacity to create the mess im looking it. this stuff is thick..trans fluid isnt this thick. maybe under pressure it has the capacity to blow out? ill have to maybe put on another band and tighten it up a bit.
there are 3 sources of oil in the front of the engine
engine oil
transmission fluid
power steering fluid
the last 2 would somehow need to be sprayed off by the radiator cooling fan, the tranmission fluid out of the cooler hoses are more likely to get there but you never know
it has to be one of these 3, can't think of anything else. if the alternator gets hot it might cook the oil so maybe that's the reason is getting thick (and mixed up with dust as well).
I can't think of any other source of thick oil or grease that would make it all the way up on the alternator
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there are 3 sources of oil in the front of the engine
engine oil
transmission fluid
power steering fluid
the last 2 would somehow need to be sprayed off by the radiator cooling fan, the tranmission fluid out of the cooler hoses are more likely to get there but you never know
it has to be one of these 3, can't think of anything else. if the alternator gets hot it might cook the oil so maybe that's the reason is getting thick (and mixed up with dust as well).
I can't think of any other source of thick oil or grease that would make it all the way up on the alternator
the funny thing is the last two (power steering and transmission lines) are two things that have "blown" recently in the jeep. My belt shredded about 6 months ago and cut the power steering return line in two and the hoses running trans fluid to the radiator also blew. Ill have to check them again. I do know there IS oil dripping from somewhere, because i can see it on the oil pan and it drips to the ground. i think it's an oil pan leak as well. The trans line running to the radiator is something is should take a look at as well. Thanks for all the responses, Sharp!
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I would clean it, then check for leaks. You don't need a lot of oil to make it look like a huge mess. After it gets on stuff it will collect dirt and turn into a sludge.