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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: gcracker25 on April 12, 2011, 02:04:25 PM
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anyone running 37's with the 4banger? If so what is your setup? meaning axles, gears, engine etc...I wana keep the 4banger but i want to run 37's and am curious about how to go about it.
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I ran them for a couple of years. I would have stayed with them but the tire I wanted KM2 is not avail in a 15 inch wheel, so I stepped down to 35's.
D44's with 5.38's. It did OK. It could of used a bit lower ratio. AX-5 tranny. Motor has a 62MM TB, 1 inch TB spacer, one of Sharps AFP set to 43 PSI. and the PD ignition kit.
Check the vendors area for the TB (Bounty Hunter) and for Sharps FPR if you have a YJ.
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Seems wiser to stay with 35's, anything bigger you end up building axles and it gets expensive fast. 4bangerYJ did well with his Dana44 in the front with 37's but I have also seen one of my friends blow CTM u joints and stub shafts at will on 37's.
Depends somewhat on how heavy your foot is and what you care to do with your Jeep. Dana 44 or a Ford 9" seems to hold up pretty well with that size tires or if you like going at it go for the bigger stuff like a Dana 60 or a 14bolt. 14 bolts are a big heavy son of a gun bit take quite a beating in stock form. It all depends what you care to do with your Jeep
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If you have a TJ (low pinion dana 30 in front) it would be very risky to run 37s. I would recommend sticking with 33s, that would be conservative, placing reliability first and capability second. You could run 35s to place capability first, but would probably have ring and pinion problems sooner or later. The rear d35 would need to upgraded also, even if you stick with 33s. If you go with 37s, it would be best to upgrade both axles to dana 60s. A common setup here locally is front and rear dana 44s and 35 inch tires ... it works very well and is not too expensive.
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High pinion Dana 30 seems to work very well for 35's the only drawback is no gear ratio deeper than 4.88 available. It is about the cheapest upgrade you can do to the front of a Jeep TJ the low pinion housing on those are prone to flexing, IE the diff housing opens up when locked and being worked hard used to give my front ARB a fit, a junkyard front axle out of a XJ and a parts swap out of my original front axle ended that issue
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I run 36" TSL's with 5.38 gears in d44 axles, works pretty well but could stand to be a little lower.
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i was going to run D44 in front and D60 in rear i am just trying to figure out what gears to use mostly.
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i was going to run D44 in front and D60 in rear i am just trying to figure out what gears to use mostly.
5.38 minimum, 5.89 would be better.
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5.38 is ok, but a higher number is better, for my combo HP60 in front and 14 bolt in rear I was limited to a 5.38 ratio, which with a 5:1 transfercase works very well for wheelin. Street use it needs help but then it has 39's on it and is pretty much intended for trail abuse only
(http://hotimg23.fotki.com/a/76_172/88_38/th_jeepin017.jpg) (http://hotimg23.fotki.com/p/a/76_172/88_38/th_jeepin017.jpg)
(http://hotimg23.fotki.com/a/76_172/88_38/th_jeepin018.jpg) (http://hotimg23.fotki.com/p/a/76_172/88_38/th_jeepin018.jpg)
(http://hotimg23.fotki.com/a/76_172/88_38/th_jeepin019.jpg) (http://hotimg23.fotki.com/p/a/76_172/88_38/th_jeepin019.jpg)
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(http://hotimg23.fotki.com/a/76_172/88_38/th_jeepin019.jpg) (http://hotimg23.fotki.com/p/a/76_172/88_38/th_jeepin019.jpg)
that's way too much flex :rant:
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hmmm im still in a pickle between 37's and 35's still haha
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35's are a cheaper deal since you can run those reliably with a somewhat stock setup that bolts right under the Jeep. The bigger axles get expensive really quick even if you do all the work yourself
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hmmm im still in a pickle between 37's and 35's still haha
The D44 front would need chromo shafts and upgraded joints to live a long happy life. IMO. Took me 2 years to gather the parts to do the front end. But I did not cut any corners or go the cheap route.
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Nice build, Art. With that setup, you could drive one side over a Ferrari and not even notice :lol:
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ya i might just go with a nice 4inch long arm with 35's hopefully that will still do the job at the rubicon haha
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ya i might just go with a nice 4inch long arm with 35's hopefully that will still do the job at the rubicon haha
You don't even really need 35's for the Rubicon.
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You don't even really need 35's for the Rubicon.
Ya dude, remember the Rubicon Tj's can clear the Rubicon trail and they're only on 31's, you'll only gain 1inch of clearance per 2 inches of tire diameter increase. And that add's a LOT of weight. If you're looking to get through the Rubicon or some of the Moab trails than I'd just go w/d44's with really deep gears and 33's with a big lift.
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You don't even really need 35's for the Rubicon.
Someone here ran the Rubicon on 31's or so, right?
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Someone here ran the Rubicon on 31's or so, right?
Jeep used to. From 1991-ish to 2003 the Wrangler was used and they only upgraded the tires to 31's when stocks were 205, 215 or 225. Chris ran the Rubicon with his 31's. I've been with a group with 31's as well. A YJ and a TJ both on street tires no aggressive AT's or even MT's. No other mods are really required but some skid-plating would be recommended if you're not running any lift. You definitely don't need 'big lift'.
The only exceptions would be Lil Sluice and Old Sluice. But both of those can be bypassed.
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ya that is very true my buddy just did the rubicon in his straight axled yota and hes just got 33's....When you say big lift how big we talking? like a long arm 4 or 6?
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Ya dude, remember the Rubicon Tj's can clear the Rubicon trail and they're only on 31's, you'll only gain 1inch of clearance per 2 inches of tire diameter increase. And that add's a LOT of weight. If you're looking to get through the Rubicon or some of the Moab trails than I'd just go w/d44's with really deep gears and 33's with a big lift.
I drove the Rubicon on 31s, w/a one inch shackle lift, stock axles and an aussie in the front, stock gears, stock transfer-case gearing, and a lot of new armor. I was banging rocks the whole way for 12+ miles; I was also driving probably the easiest lines the trail had.
The crazy thing was on that trip, except for the end of the second day on the trail where we were able to get with a group of big TJs and built pickups for about a half-hour on the downhill to Rubicon Springs, we -- my Dad and I -- ended up running the Rubicon in a solo jeep. That's wasn't in the plans -- I figured end of summer, there'd be a ton of people there and lots of groups to get with from start to finish. Didn't happen.
Anyway, my guess is 33s or 35s would have given a lot more leeway in terms of line-selection and made the run a little less work. But, it was doable on 31s... If you've got a group to go with, then maybe get yourself at least some 33s and a 4 inch lift and then you can enjoy yourself.
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sweet thanks everyone
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i've often read about off road experts and enthusiasts sticking to the rule of "3" as in 3" lift and 33s. That seems to be the perfect balance to be able to tackle hard trails with all the while allowing for good on road manners. I don't know if you DD your jeep, but this at least lets you know that a tire even as "small" as a 33 is formidable on tough trails.
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oh trust me i have a 3inch lift with 33's and it can take almost anything on lol
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oh trust me i have a 3inch lift with 33's and it can take almost anything on lol
How about this little example; notice the blue Jeep (I6 and 38 Boggers) stuck in the background... Took 3 winches, a high lift, and a broken hub (D44) to get him out of this hole, and notice that with a bit of help from my winch , I got through... You'll need better lane selection, but you can make it through 95% of the stuff out there on 33's!
http://www.youtube.com/v/PNtmAvqf9Uc?fs=1&hl=en_US
Felipe
PS: Has anyone else noticed that youtube vids are now harder to post?
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Hammers and 33's tires not gonna happen, some friends ran with us today on 35's and 36" superswampers and they both had a hell of a time getting stuck, rock stacking and winching
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I rock crawl not mud bog lol