4bangerjp.com
General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: Mozman68 on April 30, 2011, 10:41:04 AM
-
Went to Sam's Club yesterday and backed into my garage to unload. When I turned off the Jeep, the fan stayed running.... :yikes:
Tried my cutoff switch..nothing.
Turned it back on and off...nothing...just kept running.
Finally pulled the negative on the battery to get it off while I unloaded the groceries and then could take a look.
Couldn't find a single thing wrong with it, so through the negative back on so I could pull into my normal garage stall so I could rip into it. Turned off the Jeep and the fan went off like it is supposed to....has been running fine since.
Controller is from DC Controls and he hasn't given me any ideas on what it could be. I thought it had to be the controller but since it's working fine now, not sure if there's a way to tell.
Any thoughts?? :confused:
Carrying 1/2" wrench for now in case I need to disconnect the battery again.
-
Which DC controler did you get. Also did you add in a solenoid like has been suggested on the FAQ's here. JUst looked up the cheapest one they have and it says its for the ford fan just like it is no solenoid.
-
The 2 speed DC controller has two heat sunk ones. Really hard to believe the problem would be there. Has been working fine for a day now.
-
The 2 speed DC controller has two heat sunk ones. Really hard to believe the problem would be there. Has been working fine for a day now.
isn't that the one with relays? if that's the case one of the relays might have gotten stuck, can't think of anything else other than the electronics in it going wacko (not sure how that one works so i'm just assuming).
-
isn't that the one with relays? if that's the case one of the relays might have gotten stuck, can't think of anything else other than the electronics in it going wacko (not sure how that one works so i'm just assuming).
That would be my guess as well. Not much there other then thermal switches and relays. I would guess that one of the terminals heated up and then maybe melted. Had that happen with a lose connector.
-
That would be my guess as well. Not much there other then thermal switches and relays. I would guess that one of the terminals heated up and then maybe melted. Had that happen with a lose connector.
on a second thought, maybe would have started again when he connected the battery back if that was the case
or, maybe it's meant to run after you turn off the engine if the temp in the radiator is high
-
Nope...wired to cut off when the ignition is off. That's why it's so weird.
-
Nope...wired to cut off when the ignition is off. That's why it's so weird.
then i'm sticking with a stuck relay.
-
Replace the relay and see if it works again. I would guess it's the low speed relay.
-
It's been working fine since I moved i the first time...maybe it unstuck itself..... :confused:
-
It's been working fine since I moved i the first time...maybe it unstuck itself..... :confused:
Well, I'd check the connectors to see if they're all OK and firmly connected. Loose connectors cause high resistance and can eventually cause stuff to melt, de-solder&move or catch fire. Could you tell if it was the HS or LS circuit that stuck? Might pull the relays and check the socket for anything abnormal. Try wiggling the prong on the relay. There should be no play.
-
Mine would come on for about 5 to 10 seconds sometimes if the radiator temp was high even with the ignition off. It always turned itself off, though, and did not come back on again. Maybe it does not ALWAYS need the ignition signal to operate...
-
So...a couple of days ago, my fan decided to stay on again. Multiple starts/shut offs didn't help.
Was in the parking lot at work and getting ready to disconnect the battery cable so I could deal with it after work from home. Decided instead to give one of the DC Controls relays a tap with my wrench...*boo-ya*...fan shuts off as soon as I tap it.
Stuck relay.
Sent an email to Brian at DC Controls for his "thoughts" and hoping he will step up and offer to send a new control module as this should not have happened with a heat sunk relay after only about 9 months. We'll see what he says.
-
So...a couple of days ago, my fan decided to stay on again. Multiple starts/shut offs didn't help.
Was in the parking lot at work and getting ready to disconnect the battery cable so I could deal with it after work from home. Decided instead to give one of the DC Controls relays a tap with my wrench...*boo-ya*...fan shuts off as soon as I tap it.
Stuck relay.
Sent an email to Brian at DC Controls for his "thoughts" and hoping he will step up and offer to send a new control module as this should not have happened with a heat sunk relay after only about 9 months. We'll see what he says.
You will never hear from him thats why I did not buy his. He does have a 1 year warranty and a phone number I will see if I can find that.
Its only a 90 day warranty but just in case the phone number is 408 379 8951.
-
I traded emails with him the first time it happened back in April.
He was questioning the wiring of my in cab switch, but that would have nothing to do with the fan staying on even with the ignition turned off.
I'll give him a week.
-
I traded emails with him the first time it happened back in April.
He was questioning the wiring of my in cab switch, but that would have nothing to do with the fan staying on even with the ignition turned off.
I'll give him a week.
Were you able to tell if it was the High-speed or the low-speed relay? It was the relays sicking. There's really no other reason. Especially if you hit it and it fixed it. The guy's an idiot if you told him everything and he's still suspecting your wiring. Replace the relay if you suspect it. Relay's are relatively cheap and do go bad.
-
It's the low speed one....how can I replace a heat sunk relay?
-
It's the low speed one....how can I replace a heat sunk relay?
Have a picture of it? Really, there's no reason for there being a heatsink on the relay, especially if it's the low-speed relay. It's not pulling enough amps to really be an issue. Just have to install a relay that's not underrated.
-
huh? i did not think those relays had a heatsink, i don't see any reason for one anyway like Jeffy says. take a pic so we can see how they look like, on DCC website they don't seem to have a heatsink.
-
Not sure if you can see in this photo. but nothing looks replaceable.
(http://www.dccontrol.com/2sp.jpg)
-
I had "heat sink" on the brain...should have said "sealed".
He assembles the controller with the relays and then seals the whole assembly to protect it.
I'm sure I won't get a response thanks to the 90 day warranty.
-
He assembles the controller with the relays and then seals the whole assembly to protect it.
that's retarded.
-
Really?
That's kind of what I was paying for. I guess you've never had relays fail due to corrosion from being exposed or fail due to bad connections.
It's a very nice module.
-
Really?
That's kind of what I was paying for. I guess you've never had relays fail due to corrosion from being exposed or fail due to bad connections.
It's a very nice module.
i meant it's retarded to glue it so you can't replace it and you have to buy the whole thing over again (not to mention the wait time) for a $10 or so relay.
there are relay weatherpack connectors that seal the relay on the outside of the plastic cover, you don't have to cover it in resin to prevent water going in, there are other solutions
-
Also would not that cause it to overheat. As to corrosion and such what about all those relays already on jeep and other vehicles they are replaceable and some have been on my jeep since it was new in 94. The ones that have been replaced I'm glad they can be done individually.
-
Also would not that cause it to overheat.
nope, relays overheat if they are undersized of if the contacts go bad.
-
I agree it's a dumb design. Relays do go bad and if you use resin, you have a mess to deal with trying to get them out. A real PITA. Relays, especially high-amp relays are pretty robust and can withstand some water and more importantly vibrations. Although high-amp relays usually have screws on the terminals and not just blades.
Also a bit silly to use solder-less connectors. Should be using a plug connector.
I really like my setup though. Simple and easy to setup and bypass/fix if needed. Although if I was going to do anything differently I'd change the 40A relay with a 75A relay but I haven't had any problem once I up'ed the wiring and replaced the ATC fuse with a circuit breaker.
-
I also used a bypass on mine to override the controller and turn the fan on. It's helped already..