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General Forums => The Mess Hall => Topic started by: david97tj on June 17, 2005, 11:28:50 AM
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Good Day,
Any tips for removing a broken exhaust manifold stud? The rear stud on my 97TJ 2.5L has been broken for a while. I am putting on a Banks Torque Tube and I need to fix it before I can finish the job. Currently, my plans are Lots of PB Blaster, reverse drill bits, dremel tool with flex line (or right angle drill), easyouts, cutting oil, and lots of patience. I am hoping the PB Blaster will do it's job and the stud will break free without much effort. I plan to remove the fender to get better access. I don't have access to a welder.
Any other thoughts, success stories, or tips to make it as painless as possible?
I plan to document the process and setup a web page for it.
Thanks,
David
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I'd probably go with PB or CLP Break-Free then a reverse cut drill bit. EZ Outs will usually break off and then you've got the EZ Out to dig out also.
Once you get it part way you might be able to slit the end with the dremel and use a screw driver to get the rest out.
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Jeffy, thanks! That is the one thing about the project this weekend that has me concerned. The rest of the exhaust work should go pretty easy.
Cheers,
David
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Hurry, if you're under 8yr/80K miles the dealership will fix it for free.
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It's actually only a TSB and not a recall. I forget if they have extended the warranty on it or not. Since his Jeep is a 97 he's at his 8 year limit so it's up in the air if they would fix it.
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David97tj, I've been living with the same problem. Thinking about the banks headder myself. wear did you get the replacement stud? dealership? Keep us updated on the project.
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Hurry, if you're under 8yr/80K miles the dealership will fix it for free.
Hahaha! Thanks, unfortunately the mileage is at 120K.
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David97tj, I've been living with the same problem. Thinking about the banks headder myself. wear did you get the replacement stud? dealership? Keep us updated on the project.
I will post a write-up on my website. I have taken alot of pictures. I bought the replacement stud(s) and bolts at the dealership. As far as I can tell, they are the only ones that sell them.
Saturday, I got the cat and cat-back installed at a muffler shop. I decided to take it there, because I didn't have the tools for that. Good thing I did. He had to do a little modification to get the cat welded on the head pipe (head pipe brace retained). I had everything welded.
Saturday afternoon I spent pulling off the intake and exhaust manifolds. Sunday, I spent trying every method I could find on getting the stud out. No such luck. I ended up breaking a bolt extractor in the broken stud. At this point it was time to pull the head.
Actually, pulling the head would have been quicker at that point than trying to mess with the broken stud. I wasted an entire day working with the broken stud.
Monday, I pulled the head and took it to the machine shop. $45 and the stud and extractor are gone. They have a machine that uses electricity to melt out the extractor, then I think they drill out the broken stud and put in a heli-coil.
I should have it back on Wednesday; Thursday, I plan to reinstall everything, so Friday I am back on the road.
If anyone attempts to pull the head, be sure to go buy the Chrysler Service manual for your Jeep. I bought mine not long after I got my Jeep in 1997. It has the procedures for removing and installing the head. I stressed about pulling the head Sunday night (could not sleep). However, when I woke up Monday morning, I knew exactly what I was going to do. I had the head off the Jeep in about 2 hours.
One piece of advice, for the head bolts on a 97 TJ 2.5L you need a 18" Flex Handle (breaker bar?) with half inch adapter and a half inch 9/16" deep well 12pt socket, make sure they are good quality (Snap-on, Craftsman, etc). It makes breaking the bolts loose EASY! Short socket wrenches do not offer enough leverage. The bolts are torqued to 110 ft-lbs.
This has nickeled and dimed me to death with adapters, sockets and tools. I told my wife I was going to open an account with the Snap-On guy! HAHAHA!
As I said, I will post a write-up. I will keep everyone posted.
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I just extracted the same stud last month.
I had to remove the head,
I tried to to use collet extractor's, no luck,
ihad to drill out the stud,
when I got to about the inside diameter,
I was able to force the rest of the stud through the hole,
You can buy the studs at auto parts stores,
there just not listed on there comp.
you can't get the plastic washer.
that I think is only available through the dealer.
If you buy the head stud through the dealer.
it'll cost you.
the fourstud's are $19.50 each.
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Sound like it might be a little over my head. never pulled a head off before. last year a local muffler shop offered to drill it out and replace all the studs for $100. I think i'll go that route since i don't have everything i need and it'll only take a day. but let us know what you think about that headder.
tam
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Well if you can get them to replace that one for under $100, I'd say go for it. You'll want to pick up the replacement stud though. I believe they are stainless steel now.
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Thats what i was thinking. no hassles.
the stainless studs are from the dealership? Part#?
thanks,
tam
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I just extracted the same stud last month.
I had to remove the head,
I tried to to use collet extractor's, no luck,
ihad to drill out the stud,
when I got to about the inside diameter,
I was able to force the rest of the stud through the hole,
You can buy the studs at auto parts stores,
there just not listed on there comp.
you can't get the plastic washer.
that I think is only available through the dealer.
If you buy the head stud through the dealer.
it'll cost you.
the fourstud's are $19.50 each.
I bought my studs, bolts, washers, spacers, etc. from the Jeep dealership and the studs were only $2.xx a piece and the bolts were only a $1.xx a piece. Not terribly expensive. I just bought 2 head bolts from the dealership and they were only $4.04 a piece. The head gasket was $33.
I bought the spacers but I don't think I need them. They are for the factory header and I don't think they will work for my Banks Torque tube.
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Sound like it might be a little over my head. never pulled a head off before. last year a local muffler shop offered to drill it out and replace all the studs for $100. I think i'll go that route since i don't have everything i need and it'll only take a day. but let us know what you think about that headder.
tam
I will do that.
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Thats what i was thinking. no hassles.
the stainless studs are from the dealership? Part#?
thanks,
tam
I am looking at my invoice and this is what I have
6036193-AA STUD NONE 9004007 $1.60 each
6036171-AA NUT&WA NO 18050022 $3.95 each
I suspect you won't need the plastic spacer. I think that is to keep the OEM header properly centered during installation. If they are not removing the header then I don't think you will need the spacer, if they do, then you will need 2 studs, 2 spacers, and 2 nut/washers.
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Thanks for the info David. I've added it to the FAQ.
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AS to the plastic spacer,
I believe it is to solve the broken studs on the manifold,
The head bolts are cheap, $3 to $4 each,
the head studs, are the expensive one's,
you don't even need them,
they just mount the wiring harness and one ground,
Hey Jeff love the new look
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Just joined?
Looks like the Studs aren't that expensive actually. The bolts were never really the problem. Those front and rear studs are although I've never had that problem. I'm not sure what really causes it other then the different expansion and contraction rate of the metals used.
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Just joined?
Looks like the Studs aren't that expensive actually. The bolts were never really the problem. Those front and rear studs are although I've never had that problem. I'm not sure what really causes it other then the different expansion and contraction rate of the metals used.
That is pretty much what I have heard. When I picked up the head from the machine shop, the shop manager pretty much said the same thing, that the header and head move due to heating and it shears the studs off. If I remember correctly, both of my bolts broke on cold mornings (cold for Florida that is HAHAHA).
I suspect that with the new Banks header, it won't happen. I think the full length gasket might make a difference. The OEM exhaust header is installed without a gasket. Only the Intake has a gasket. Go figure.
Well, I am installing everything today. I will report back this evening.
cya,
David
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Thanks for the info David. I've added it to the FAQ.
Your welcome. Glad I could contribute some useful information.
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Well, I have it all together and everything looks good. I didn't encounter any problems. I followed the service manual and the Banks instructions. The Banks Header bolted right on, without any problems. It fit perfectly. Actually, it is pretty much a precision fit. There AIN'T no slop in putting it on. You gotta get it straight or there will be problems trying to get the #1 bolt to thread.
So far, no error codes and the water and oil are being nice to one another. It was pretty scary to crank it for the first time. Once the fuel system pressurized, it came to life and just hummed. I drove it a few miles already, hammering it a little bit. It definitely has a bit more "go" in it. Although, it is difficult for me to tell how much is new and what is a result of getting my CLOGGED cat and muffler replaced.
I will try to get the write-up online this weekend, with pictures.
Oh, it took me about 10 to 12 hours to get everything reinstalled.
Good night,
David
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Folks,
Here is my Banks Exhaust write-up (http://jeep.active-logic.com/docs/banks.pdf). It is PDF, so you will need Adobe Acrobat Reader. I may end up putting it online as web pages, but for it is PDF. Enjoy!
Cheers,
David