Topic: TPS Question

[3Xloser]

Among a few other fits my '97 Wrangler is giving me is a tendency to lose power at WOT.  If I back out of the throttle a bit, it will accelerate noticably better.  I have an FSM I bought when I had my '01 and it specifies .26 volts at idle up to 4.49 volts at WOT from the TPS for the 2.5 AMC engine.  I checked mine and it tops out at around 3.89 volts at WOT.  If the spec. is the same, it seems like the computer would be seeing part throttle while the plate is wide open.  Could this be contributing to the power loss at full throttle?
Thanks for any help; this one is my first that I've owned out of warranty and I'm winging it on the repairs.

[sharpxmen]

Among a few other fits my '97 Wrangler is giving me is a tendency to lose power at WOT.  If I back out of the throttle a bit, it will accelerate noticably better.  I have an FSM I bought when I had my '01 and it specifies .26 volts at idle up to 4.49 volts at WOT from the TPS for the 2.5 AMC engine.  I checked mine and it tops out at around 3.89 volts at WOT.  If the spec. is the same, it seems like the computer would be seeing part throttle while the plate is wide open.  Could this be contributing to the power loss at full throttle?
Thanks for any help; this one is my first that I've owned out of warranty and I'm winging it on the repairs.

actually mine is about 4.55 at wot. Check and see if the butterfly is vertical, I am thinking it might get jammed somewhere and not open fully. You should also check the voltage going to the TPS. Otherwise the unit might be defective.

[3Xloser]

I checked the sensor with the key on and the engine off with all of the intake plumbing (resonator, air tube, etc.) removed.  I was actually moving the throttle bellcrank by hand.  I checked supply voltage to the sensor and it read a solid 5v.  I checked the output signal using both the connector ground and chassis ground.  Both ways, I got readings in the same range that topped out around 3.8v.
As an aside, while I was checking the TPS, I removed and cleaned out the IAC motor.  It was full of sooty black deposits; all over the plunger and the bore it rides in.  The inside of the throttle body also had quite a bit of fouling in it.  Looking down into the intake, it looked wet in there also.  I thought the intake system on this thing was dry as the injectors were downstream.  Am I missing an even bigger problem than a wimpy TPS?

[sharpxmen]

most likely your CCV brass fitting in the valve cover is clogged, check that one and clean it, check the line and also where it goes in the intake manifold (below the t/b somewhere) and make sure everything is clean with no obstructions. If this is blocked then the blowby goes into your airbox and from there to the t/b.

[3Xloser]

Will do, thanks.

[grumpygy]

Just a thought plugged Catalytic Converter.  That's exactly how my 94 acted.    Also my air-box and intake had oil in them to include I even had oil coming out my dipstick tube because of the back pressure it cause.


Found this.

If you mean the recall that followed an EPA lawsuit, which extended the
warranty to 120K/12 years, the local dealer wouldn't honor it for my
1997 TJ when the catalytic converter failed just like the EPA said.
The dealer can easily look up your VIN on the Daimler-Chrysler Web site
and can tell you the recall history and pending recalls on your vehicle.

In my case the recall didn't get recorded on the corporate records and
Web site (even though I had the recalled defect), and that was that as
far as the dealers are concerned.

In reading the EPA settlement, it sounds like it only covered an absurd
portion of the TJs having the problem, such as the 2.5L engine but not the
4.0L engine.  My impression was that DC had swindled the EPA (and us) out
of DC taking responsibility for many (if not most) actual cases.

[3Xloser]

Thanks, I just might trot my VIN over to the local guys and see what's up with that.  Although I'm only at 106K miles, it's 14 years old.  I shudder to think what the dealer would want for a catalytic converter.