Troubleshooting, I thought of some things to possibly check plus sharing my own troubleshooting technique may help you. I am thinking the EGR could be mounted backwards, if I remember right this is possible on some engines, or maybe the unit sold to you has the valve setup for the opposite air flow direction or incorrect spring tension. I would remove it again and do a close inspection to compare old to new units making sure the valve configuration inside them match and mounting direction match, installing the old unit is even a good test. As I mentioned before, put a small piece of vacuum hose on the top of each unit and suck a small vacuum then hold your tougue over the hose end for a minute. If the rubber bellows inside does not leak they are good. Many times I just clean the carbon off an EGR and do this vacuum check then reinstall if they function. A bad EGR usually makes the engine idle really rough due to the valve not opening at all caused by a blown rubber diaphram, an EGR should open to allow some exhaust gas to recirculate (loop) back to the intake during warmup only and failure would not cause the engine to race now that I think about it. So, let's backtrace all the items you had to disconnect when you did the job and re-mate all the electrical connectors, recheck all the electrical and vacuum lines for correct location too. I am also wondering what the thottle body state would be if it were not getting a proper signal, could it be stuck wide open? Sometimes they get stuck wide open from dirt or water getting in them. Anyway now for the vacuum line issue, you have ported vacuum ports on your intake & thottle body and you have non-ported connectors, this means some of the vac connectors have a pin hole or orafice in them (ported) to cut down or restrict the amount of vac to certain items while other items use full open ports. this is why a vac line on the wrong connector can cause racing. Example, I created this condition once when I hooked the vac line from the distributor advance unit to a non-ported connection on a carburator which caused the distributor to peg full advance as soon as the engine started because it recieved full vacuum, once I moved it to a ported connection it only recieved a very small (restricted) amount of vac during initial acceleration as needed. So you can see how a wrong connection can make all the difference, some vac connectors are restricted and some are wide open but they look just the same externally! (ported & non-ported) Testing, you can also do testing with a vacuum cap/plug assortment kit by disconnecting and capping off one line at a time to see if one of the vacuum connections is responsible for the racing condition. each time you remove a line cap it's port on the intake or throttle body and plug the hose end, start the engine, if the racing continues reconnect the line and goto the next line performing the same test, when you finally get to the line causing the problem you will know because your idle will drop way down near normal. The next step will be to figure out why the line you identified as causing the engine to race, why it creates the problem, so see what it goes to, it maybe some kind of sensor, isolate down to the line, then zero in on the related component(s). When your done let me know your results.
