Author Topic: Bad rear sway bar bushings.  (Read 1170 times)

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Offline dexetr30

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Bad rear sway bar bushings.
« on: January 27, 2007, 09:46:46 AM »
They started clunking a few weeks ago and so far I've just left it go. New bushings are cheep enough but should I just remove it and let it go at that. It's my daily driver during the week but on the weekends it sees a lot of rail use. Front one will stay connected for now. At least until my bro makes me a set of hardened discos that simply use cotter pins.
02 2.5.L automatic: 4.0L t.b., 4.0l air intake, K&N filter, Scream'n Demon coil, 8.5mm MSD Super Conductor plug wires, Stage 1 Jet Chip, 29" BFG all terrain KO's. Taurus E-fan, Hummer front bumper, Skyjacker high capacity trans pan, 48" hi-lift, Rubi susp w. 3/4" BB.

lanulos89

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Bad rear sway bar bushings.
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2007, 10:21:48 AM »
sway bar or track bar?????  i didnt know jeeps had rear sway bars, i guess tj's do, i know yj dont for a fact.  if it does havea rear sway bar you prob won't notice a big difference with it in or if you just take it out all together IMO .

Offline dexetr30

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Bad rear sway bar bushings.
« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2007, 10:55:06 AM »
Yup, the tj's have the rear sway bar. The track bar is fine. The clunking drove me nuts for a few days before I decided to crawl underneath it and find the problem. A new polyurethane set only costs $16.99 + S&H but if I it won't cause any problems I'll just disconnect it and take it out.
02 2.5.L automatic: 4.0L t.b., 4.0l air intake, K&N filter, Scream'n Demon coil, 8.5mm MSD Super Conductor plug wires, Stage 1 Jet Chip, 29" BFG all terrain KO's. Taurus E-fan, Hummer front bumper, Skyjacker high capacity trans pan, 48" hi-lift, Rubi susp w. 3/4" BB.

Offline jagular7

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Bad rear sway bar bushings.
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2007, 12:39:30 PM »
Quote from: "dexetr30"
Yup, the tj's have the rear sway bar. The track bar is fine. The clunking drove me nuts for a few days before I decided to crawl underneath it and find the problem. A new polyurethane set only costs $16.99 + S&H but if I it won't cause any problems I'll just disconnect it and take it out.


You really shouldn't have a drastic change in the handling of the TJ with the rear sway bar disconnected or even removed. Its been ailing for a while now you say and you haven't noticed any problems with it like that. Only way you will have a problem is if you do an abrupt maneuver. Besides if you do a massive abrupt maneuver, you'll be more worried about laying on its side.

I don't run a rear sway bar, but I've also got gas charged shocks, which help a little with the weight shift in turning.
Jagular7
97 SE - Rubbered and locked for fun
94 SE - stock, collecting parts for 37s

Offline chardrc

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Bad rear sway bar bushings.
« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2007, 12:50:07 PM »
wow i never noticed rear sway bars on my dads Rubicon.. but i know its gone now with the long arm kit.
1990 YJ 4cly, ax5, 2.5 inch BDS lift, 31 MTr\'s,  Powertrax-lockers all around, track-bars removed, boomerang shackles, warn m8000 winch, electric fan. [sold but not forgotten]

2007 jk Rubicon 2dr

Offline dexetr30

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Bad rear sway bar bushings.
« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2007, 01:45:50 PM »
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm yanking the damn thing out as soon as it's warm enough to do so. It's been real cold and I don't have heat in the garage... yet.
02 2.5.L automatic: 4.0L t.b., 4.0l air intake, K&N filter, Scream'n Demon coil, 8.5mm MSD Super Conductor plug wires, Stage 1 Jet Chip, 29" BFG all terrain KO's. Taurus E-fan, Hummer front bumper, Skyjacker high capacity trans pan, 48" hi-lift, Rubi susp w. 3/4" BB.

Offline jagular7

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Bad rear sway bar bushings.
« Reply #6 on: January 27, 2007, 06:19:44 PM »
Quote from: "dexetr30"
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm yanking the damn thing out as soon as it's warm enough to do so. It's been real cold and I don't have heat in the garage... yet.


Just disconnect the bad side where the drop link meets with the sway bar. If its not connected at both ends, it won't do anything. With it still connected at the other, the bar will stay up out of the way. The frame link will just dangle in the air, see if you can angle it some to eliminate any compression interference with the sway. It'll probably be a 15mm bolt/nut combo.
Jagular7
97 SE - Rubbered and locked for fun
94 SE - stock, collecting parts for 37s