Topic: Body lift help.

[smashcoast]

I am looking to do a 1" BL and wonder what a good brand is?

Also is a 1" motor mount a good idea also?

What else is needed so i dont run into any problems with the body lift?

Will this shorten my shifter, and with a TC drop make it to short?

Will I have problems shifting my TC shifter and should I buy the TC shifter linkage that removes it from the body?

Sorry such a loaded question!

[Crunch]

I have a DayStar 1". 
http://www.4wheelsupply.com/day/jeep-body-lifts.htm

It installed very easily, and replaced the stock HW which was a plus on an older Jeep. You'll likely end up finding worn out bushings, and breaking bolts taking the stock body mounts off.  It will be hard to go wrong with about any kit made specifically for a Jeep.

If you don't do a MML at the same time as your Body lift, you'll need to adjust the Fan Shroud.  I'm not quite sure what is involved with this.

After the BL, you may have to adjust the Transfer Case shifter linkage after installation to get the shifter to engage properly.  With 2" of change in your linkage (BL + TC drop) you may have to buy a relocation bracket if you can't get the linkage to adjust correctly.

I had some trouble with my transmission shifter after the TC drop, and it hitting the body.  After cutting down the offending piece of body behind the shifter a little all was well.  When I did the BL, I also did a MML and removed my TC drop (fixing my driveline angles good enough!), which put my linkage and shifters back where they were after my original TC drop.  Because of this, I can't comment on BL + TC drop (only with what I heard).

If you're considering a MML lift, please please please don't get one with poly bushings.  They transfer a lot of vibes into the cab and it's quite irritating. From what I understand, it's even worse with the 2.5L!  I disregarded prior warnings and did a DayStar, and my entire dash shook afterwards at idle.   MORE and (i hear) Browndog are good.

I'm sure others will chime in, but hopefully that helps a little.  Good luck!

[oldjeep]

x2 on the browndog .  Nice mounts, I've got their older poly bushing mounts and there is some vibration.  I've got a set of their replacement softer bushings sitting on the workbench, just havn't had a chance to put them in.

What's the reason for the bodylift?  I have yet to hear a compelling reason to use one.  On my YJ I gained 1/2" by replacing the crushed 20 year old stock rubber bushings with a stock height poly set.

[smashcoast]

The resaon is I have  a 3" lift and want to be able to clear 33's with no rub.

[oldjeep]

The resaon is I have  a 3" lift and want to be able to clear 33's with no rub.

Isn't it easier to just add some more "real" lift?  Is your 3" lift all coils or coils and spacers?

[smashcoast]

Right now coils and spacers. I'm going to buy some 3" coils and remove the spacers.

I just bought 3" billsteins and want to stay in that range so I dont have to get new shocks.

[jagular7]

Before you buy your shocks, do some measuring. If all you are doing is to swap out springs/spacers for springs, then the articulation of the axle will be nearly the same. What you want to do is not have the shock or your tires be your compression bump stop. With a TJ, it is quite easy to articulation the axles to determine the proper shock length. With the new coil installed, measure the static ride height. Remove the coil and let the frame set on the axle. Is the tire in contact with the body? Is there some space between them? Then measure your shock length compressed. Add 3/4" to that measurement. If you can't crawl underneath to measure, use a floor jack and lift one side of the axle up. You will notice the tire will angle and the amount of body clearance will get smaller. How much space you want to clear the tire from the body? Remember this is static and not dynamic. You add 3/4" to get your dynamic compression.
Then remeasure your shock compression once again. Don't forget to add 3/4" for the dynamic compression.

Then find your shock choices for the compression measurement. These shocks are what you want to run. Use the static measurement to get you near the middle of the travel for the shock. Being less compressed and more droop can be beneficial, but you don't want a shock that you have 2" of compression and 6" of droop for a 8" travel shock. Without the cycling of the shock on the street, you will heat the shock and it won't work properly. Shocks dissipate heat as they make heat to minize the axle oscillation (up/down). To add, too much droop will make the coils drop out off the rear axle as well as have the rear axle 'walk' underneth the center of the Jeep due to the SA configuration. LAs have a greater range for shock options.