Topic: Track bar relocation brackets... What's the difference?

[dexetr30]

My axles are out of alignment. I'm looking at relocation brackets for the rear. I'm looking at the o.m.e. and the Teraflex brackets on Q-Tecs site. I've read the products description and see nothing different between the two of them except the cost and the Teraflex is good up to 4"s of lift. The o.m.e. is $17.99  and the Teraflex is $75.99. What's the difference other than price? 

Old Man Emu
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_100.htm

TeraFlex
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16191_902.htm

[oldjeep]

Teraflex is awfull proud of their parts.  Without a ruler next to the parts it's hard to tell if the teraflex moves the track bar more. 

I'm not a big fan of either, there is a lot of leverage and the further the bracket sticks out the more likely to bend or break.  I'd go for an adjustable trackbar on the stock mount.

Something like this:  (Uses a tierod end like stock rather than a heim)
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16191_901.htm

[Bounty Hunter]

How far can your axles be out of alignment Rubi coils and 3/4" spacers?  These brackets are designed for a minimum of 2" lift, and with anything less it'll likely make your axle off-center the opposite direction.

If you're set on it, get the cheap bracket.  If possible, save the money and redrill the stock bracket to move the trackbar over a little.

[jagular7]

Not only is the length necessary to consider, but another thing to consider, and its not really looked at in the rear, is the angle of the track bar. The bar needs to be parallel to the axle as possible to minimize any influence it will have when driving. With a rear locker, the track bar angle becomes more influential to the handling of the Jeep.

The front is similar with meeting the same angles as the direct line of the drag link from the pitman arm to the knuckle. The length is only considered for centering the axle under the frame.

[dexetr30]

How far can your axles be out of alignment Rubi coils and 3/4" spacers?  These brackets are designed for a minimum of 2" lift, and with anything less it'll likely make your axle off-center the opposite direction.

If you're set on it, get the cheap bracket.  If possible, save the money and redrill the stock bracket to move the trackbar over a little.

I haven't had time to measure how far off it is yet. I did notice a difference though just by looking at the rear. I won't have time to measure it today. It will have to wait until tomorrow. I've noticed that the ride is quite a bit stiffer than it was prior to me adding the coil spacers. Wife noticed it too, without me mentioning it to her.

As far as measuring goes... will running a weighted (plum bob) string off the centers of the flare and then using a tape measure to measure the distance between the string and a given point on the rim give me an accurate measurement?

[Bounty Hunter]

I haven't had time to measure how far off it is yet. I did notice a difference though just by looking at the rear. I won't have time to measure it today. It will have to wait until tomorrow. I've noticed that the ride is quite a bit stiffer than it was prior to me adding the coil spacers. Wife noticed it too, without me mentioning it to her.

As far as measuring goes... will running a weighted (plum bob) string off the centers of the flare and then using a tape measure to measure the distance between the string and a given point on the rim give me an accurate measurement?

It's stiffer because you're using Rubi springs designed for a much heavier jeep, on a lighter jeep.

You can also take a quick measurement on each side between the upper spring bucket and the inner sidewall of the tire.

[dexetr30]

It's stiffer because you're using Rubi springs designed for a much heavier jeep, on a lighter jeep.

You can also take a quick measurement on each side between the upper spring bucket and the inner sidewall of the tire.

I added the spacers over a year after the shocks and springs. The stiffness I'm referring to currently only showed up after I added the spacers. Doesn't make any sense because the spacers are pretty soft.

Thanks for the help with the measurement. I'll go this route. It'll be quicker than hanging plum bobs. 

[aw12345]

Dexter part of the suspension being stiffer is most likey parts binding. The more you lift it the more things get stiff
Not installing a raised bracket in the rear makes a TJ shake its tail quite a bit more than when you try to get the trackbar close to horizontal at ride height. It does make a big difference in ride quality, I chucked the bracket originally and raised it up later made a big difference. I know its tough on the left upper control arm bracket that's why they break I braced mine pretty well when I raised the trackbar up. Ultimately a 3 or 4 link will make the back end happy, it will get rid of the trackbar action and allows much better flex in the rear and greatly reduces swaying side to side of the body combined with some decent offroad sway bars.
Now back to the original problem the stock springs have arubber pad on top which is now replaced by a piece of urethane, this will make it a little harder, you changed the angle of the control arms a bit doesn't help it either.
The part you can control is binding of the trackbar, if need be look what the right height is then take the springs out, set it with a jack at ride height and try to move things around also did you do anything about shock lenght?
For centering inside tire to frame in front and inside tire to spring bucket works well. One last thing Loosen and then retighten the control arm bolts when the supension is loaded with the wheels on the ground, loosen the bolts bounce the suspension then tighten, that might help some and the bushings will live a lot longer

[dexetr30]

I measured things today. The difference from right to left is 1 1/8". I'm not sure if this warrants relocating the rear mount. So if anyone has opinions on that, I'd appreciate hearing from you.

Now, when I added the 3/4" spacers I kept the original rubber bushings on the spring perch. According to the terribly written directions, I wasn't supposed to remove them before adding the spacers. So, as far as that goes I should not have lost any ride quality/softness. Total lift from my Rubi suspension and the spacers is 2.25"s. Is that really enough to cause a binding problem with the rear suspension? I crawled under it tonight and the angle on the rear track bar seemed to be about the same as stock. I guess I'd need an angle gauge to really check. Also, I'm starting to wonder if I'm being over critical of all of this. I know it's not a Caddy and a stiff ride should be expected. One good thing... no vibes! 

Thanks for helping with all of this everyone. I know I can be a p.i.t.a. 

[aw12345]

Since you did not replace the springs it should ride close to the same if everything else is right
Now if it came with shock that might be part of the ride problem. My origonal lift kit cane with doetsch shocks and they caused it to ride terribly

[dexetr30]

Since you did not replace the springs it should ride close to the same if everything else is right
Now if it came with shock that might be part of the ride problem. My origonal lift kit cane with doetsch shocks and they caused it to ride terribly

Nope, no springs or shocks. Bare bones with only spacers. I did notice a difference in the Rubi setup when I first put it in but the stiffness I have now is in addition to that. I guess I can live with it.

[jagular7]

Originial stock shocks?

You basically have ridden on the upper part of the shock. The shock is probably not designed to be a 90/10 type of shock. Meaning that you have 10% of up travel and 90% down travel for the shock operating range. Most stock shocks are near 50/50 travel range. This keeps them cool with no load or a heavy load in the rear seat....