Topic: Trans Skid Crossmember Nutserts

[jagular7]

Well, I worked on removing my trans skid plate to attend to a trans leak. I suspect its the rear output seal as it was 5 yrs ago. And yes, it was. I had lots of fluid in that cavity. I put sealer in the hole to keep it from leaking years ago.

My problem is I had 3 of the 6 bolts insert nuts go broke in the frame. I was able to remove 2 of the 3 and had to cut the 3rd. Here is all the nutsert is that holds the skid plate in the frame.



The good bolt is on top. The cut bolt with still insert attached is on the right. The left piece is the welded on the frame flange from another hole.

[aw12345]

I would say anti seize is your friend, are you going to use new nutserts? or sticking bolts all the way through the frame? If you do the latter make some spacers out of tube so you do not crush and bulge the frame

[st.chevrolet]

I had that same problem! I solved it by drilling out the holes in the frame just large enough to insert a ordinary non plated nut. I then put the nut on the tip of a bolt long enough to hold it straight in the hole with my hand out of the  way so I could weld the nuts in place. Make sure the nuts are positioned high enough to allow for the thickness of the frame rail for the weld to lay in to keep thing flush. Like stated above, make sure you use neverseize on your new bolts.

         

[jagular7]

Right now I've got 2 runs coming the next 2 weekends. 2nd run is to Superlift ORV in Arkansas which is 8 hours away. Then I'm pretty much hit for summer work on the house, yard, and a family vacation to visit my brother in Baltimore.

However, to repair it for the 2 runs, welded in fat large washer with a nut on the back side of it. I'm using Gr8 bolts in the 3 locations. The other 3 locations will get the stock bolt. And I did use anti-seize years ago when I first 'fixed' the auto leak.    I'm not real kind to the skid plate and it shows underneath.