Author Topic: It's been covered before, but... 4:88's 35's, Lockright, and the stock D30...  (Read 1311 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline TahoeYJ

  • Member
  • Posts: 530
  • How can I reech theese kids?
Again I've seen this topic before (or at least seen mention of it in other threads) but I'm thinkin' about slapping a lunchbox locker in the front on my Heep in the near future... I've seen pictures of what can happen to the locked D30 when you abuse it  :pirate: But for how often I get the chance to really go on a good trip and with the terrain I usually do, I'm almost thinking I'd be OK... I'd definitely carry extra stock shafts, but I also wonder if its worthless, because what if I destroy the ball joints if the shaft/u-joints fail?
Is it really just my personal call on this one? Or should I live with what I've got (Honestly the stuff I've hit with my Heep, I've never *needed* the locker to make it through but it'd definitely help). I'm always light on the throttle too... It's my DD and if I do some serious damage on the trail, I'd be screwed  :thumb:

So... Lock it and just think before I hit any hard obstacles... Or wait 'til I can slap some chromo shafts in too?
92 YJ. Lifted, 4:88's, 9" rear, 4 wheel disks, some armor, some audio, 35" KM2's, and more

Offline FourbangerYJ

  • Servicing Squirrels Since 1995®
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3372
Do it. If you break a UJ STOP straight away no matter what's going on. If you can stop before the ears of the yokes beat on each other the ball joinst won't fail. Swap in your spare shafts. Just make sure your UJ are of good quality and mark the caps to see if they start spinning. If they start spinning the shafts have stretched. You can tack the cap to the yoke to stop it.
Scott~

Using tools you have not used in a while is like shaking hands with old friends. :nod:

TrailsLessTaken

  • Guest
I got 4.10's, 35's and a lock rite in the 30 on mine and for most of my wheeling it's worked quite well, I've only had it break once and that was at the Badlands this summer playing on some rocks.  I shoulda known after the first two tries I was gettin up but after a buddy made up twice I was bound and determined to make and ended up breakin a ujoint and by the time i realized what had happened and I stopped I had already ripped the ears on the yoke and pulled the ball joints out.  So if you're just doing mainly trails and not alot with rocks I would think you should be fine
Bob

Offline TahoeYJ

  • Member
  • Posts: 530
  • How can I reech theese kids?
That's one thing I'll definitely be doing if I do this, slapping in some fresh u-joints. I imagine mine haven't been changed in all of their 215K miles  :wall: Knock on wood with the way I drive the thing on the street, that the caps haven't started spinning.

I got 4.10's, 35's and a lock rite in the 30 on mine and for most of my wheeling it's worked quite well, I've only had it break once and that was at the Badlands this summer playing on some rocks.  I shoulda known after the first two tries I was gettin up but after a buddy made up twice I was bound and determined to make and ended up breakin a ujoint and by the time i realized what had happened and I stopped I had already ripped the ears on the yoke and pulled the ball joints out.  So if you're just doing mainly trails and not alot with rocks I would think you should be fine
Bob
The picture of your carnage was one of the first things that came to mind when I started thinking about this :eek:  Hence why I was a bit skeptic

So the general consensus is that I'll be OK 'eh? It looks like it'll happen sometime after Christmas if I take the plunge. Heck, if I could pay off my CC maybe I could talk myself into an OX or ARB  :bandit:
92 YJ. Lifted, 4:88's, 9" rear, 4 wheel disks, some armor, some audio, 35" KM2's, and more

Offline jagular7

  • Member
  • Posts: 987
I've had my D30 lunchbox locked for over 5 yrs. I just recently replaced the joints and one side shafts (both yokes expanded and cap spin). I still have them for trail spares. I also heard that you can take a stretched yoke shaft and mod it for full locks. So that may be an option for me.

I started off with 34" LTBs and now run 35" KM2s. I don't consider myself aggressive in wheeling, but have been known to push a little at times. I've never broken a joint or shaft. If you drive with some sense, they will last and survive.
Jagular7
97 SE - Rubbered and locked for fun
94 SE - stock, collecting parts for 37s

Offline oldjeep

  • Member
  • Posts: 1800
    • www.Oldjeep.com
Depends on where/how you wheel.  My stock shafts lasted one run after I put the front aussie in.   No issues since upgrading to Yukon Alloys and Superjoints.
Chuck P
The clowns'? Oh, yeah, the clowns. We fight them too — entire armies, spilling out of Volkswagons. We do our best to fight them off, but they keep sending 'em in!
94 YJ - gone
98 ZJ - sons truck
97 TJ - daughters project

www.oldjeep.com

TrailsLessTaken

  • Guest
I've had mine in since somethin like 2001 maybe??? I can't remember when I put it in there, and that was the first time I had ever had a problem with it.  As long as you're easy on things you will be fine.  For me the jeep isnt my dd so I can be a lil bit rougher on it now than back when that was the only thing I had to drive

paultyler

  • Guest
I think you are being too cautious.  My money says you will be fine, understanding that you can break any axle if you drive poorly. 

radark1

  • Guest
I have Aussie in front Rubicon in rear with air locker and 4.88 gearing.......my Jeep can go anywhere.